Indrid cold

1988 dl, EA-82, SPFI, NON-TURBO, 150K + miles (guess) Pressure test on engine: chilton says pull plugs, disconnect the cold start valve????? (w.t. heck), and coil wire, ... connect pressure test gauge, depress accelerator, crank and read... didn't know what the "cold start valve" was so just remove air filter house from top, pushed accelerator and did the deed... here are the numbers: .....................X (fan)................ #2....175 psi.......#1....162 psi #4....170 psi.......#3....152 psi so.... what do they mean? NO cold start valve on my wagon per later post. Soo... that answered that question as I was looking at Schematics in the chiltons and coudn't find it so I just pulled the air inlet boot off the top of the throttle body. Fuel pumping into cylenders possibly raising pressure test?... Yes there was a heavy fuel smell and was woundering about that since I did #3 twice and the second time was 20#'s higher... possibly didn't get a tight seal in the plug hole the first time...hmmmmm... may be a redo to double check. I think I will pull the fuse to the fuel pump and then test? and per another post...on the Throttle plate in my SPFI system...well... I don't think I have one of those.. kind of like the Cold start valve... I finaly gave up looking. I believe Throttle plate is assoc. with carberators? or am I missing something on that? Reply #2: General D., thanks for the info on the throttle plate... I will do another test next week and see if the numbers come in about the same.

a prior post stated he used a short section of pvc/abs pipe (took old seal in and found a diameter match) as a press to push in the seal as not sure if screwdriver is the best tool for the job. I will be doing my rear seal next couple of weeks so a timely post for me... will be looking for wear on the crank shaft too... BPM, never heard of a speedi sleeve... sounds like the thing I may need also... DasWaff: excellent(update to lower post), would have given you credit but hard to keep track of all them posts: Also, me being a Plumber sounds like you are descibing a, 2" Female I.P. X Female Slip clean-out adapter, with a threaded plug as the driver. I would have confirmed this size but when I went to pick up my rear seal today from local Subaru dlr. the guy handed me a rear oil plate or what ever?..oops, he marked down wrong part number.... so, hopefully at next opportunity I will try out the, DassWaff Seal tool.

There was an earlier post that made the recommendation to replace the Tranny & Motor mounts, more so for the older cars and easier to do when you have the motor out for a re-seal/replacement such as I am about too do. The writer of the post stated it felt the drive system was snugger/tighter or what ever and made that recommendation, much like the front end suspension and the rubber bushings etc.. I have an 88 wagon, almost 20 years on them... they look fine but? so would it be a waste to change them?

Hey General... can you work that same kind of VODOO with the IRS? I dred the day they make us do emissions here on the East side of WA. so I better copy this post for my records as it is coming this way...

i run across a lot of deer also, the way the lights are aimed i can see for about 3/4 of a mile ahead of me at night. (my wife says if i'm really careful i could see seattle from our house with them on. ) car...http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=12755&cat=500&ppuser=18606 ............................................. I like the way he has his mounted.. in front on the car... the cheaper lights have alot of scatter in their light so when mounted up top (light bar) offer good light spread but blinds the driver with the glow... so up front on the bumper is a good place to start with the spread beam/cheaper lights.

I was crossing a bridge from WA into OR when "THUNK" something came flying out from under the car... don't believe tire knocked it up but possibly, I took foot off accelerator and just after bridge I took an exit and when I used the brakes the cars left brake began to grab WICKEDLY, it included a loud grinding sound, hard pull too the left... It took me most the off ramp to slow it down in a controlled manner...got it back into a parking lot and took both front tires off.... everything tight, brake pads are accounted for and all looks good? No damage to rotors? With no tools, no idea even where to start and sun getting lower in the sky I called :-\ a tow truck and got the prime-rib special from the corner resteraunt where I landed and the tow truck brought me back home into WA. (AAA-100mile tow contract) got too love them. This morning I took left front brake apart, pads are fine, (changed last spring) and all looks good.... I pushed brake to extend caliper and works great.... something is wrong and I can't quite figure it out.... any ideas? I have parts car and was thinking about changeing caliper but it seems to be fine, same with rotor, same with everything else.. left front brakes grab, grind and car is not driveable in this condition. Noob in training.... Post#2; Thanks for the reply's, yup have pads from left side out and looks good, will pull right side off and then the left rotor, then the right till I find the problem... be right back... (had to go shoping with wife after initial post so ready to dive back in.) Will let you know what I find... SOLVED: Post #3: Problem solved.. Lost one of the two bolts to the "Support" bracket that holds the brake pad bracket in place. You know when you pull your rottor (after brake pad removed) you reach around under the car to the back side of the rotor housing to remove those two bolts... well... lost a bolt and that allowed system to twist and go into a bind I guess... so off too the parts car and get me a bolt. Thanks guys.. I dug and looked just not good enough, not till I got to pulling the rotor did I notice the missing bolt. I would have walked back up the bridge to find what got pitched from the car if it wasn't so dangerous... no walk ways... All good posts.... and hey?... who was the last guy that pulled that rotor to do the bearings on that side... hmmmm...... "DOH" I got my comeupons... (I will pay more attention to those bolts in the future)... Oh.. one last thing... the bolt went up into my wheel well and punched a hole into the fenderwell before flying out infront of me... it uncovered an ugly rust spot for me to patch up.. so not all bad.

Pulled flywheel from siezed parts engine. Going to take too machine shop and have surfaced smoothed out .... as recommended by others prior to doing a clutch in my running wagon. I noticed random slight surface fissures on flywheel/clutch wear surface. I don't believe they are very deep and seem to be just surface.. possibly do to heat etc... is this norm? My first clutch/seal change... You can see them just above flash bounce on left side... problem?

Have your battery checked too... if bad it can draw alot of amps and starve the rest of your system.... just an idea...

back up about 10ft from a large tree... drop ramp.. wrap tow strap from pull point under subie, around tree and back... get into main rig and drive....it will come off... possibly sprinkle sand along trailer to help with the sliding action...

Ive got a Brat doing the same thing. Input from others are to replace leading rod rubber bushings, sway bar rubber bushings and the Transverse link bushings and possibly front strut may be bent.... although I havn't had time too do this I have the parts ready to go in....I am taking the shot gun approach, going to change it all. any way.. it seems that these bushing become worn, old etc.. and no longer supports front end... When the rubber bushings parts are tightened they should be torquered with the weight on the tires not dangling in air on jacks per others suggestions which properly loads the bushings.... or something to that effect. Also, it is possible to build new camber/toe plates on top of front sruts to tweek alignment both ways should it tweeked out of tollerance.. but that is another post... Hope some of this helps... NOOB in training...

Let us know what your adjuster finaly comes up with... curious too know.

......Excellent......Smithers.... Excellent...

I have a EA-82 in my 1988 DL, Wagon, Single Point Fuel Injecting (SPFI), If I pull the complete Intake Manifold with the SPFI header, body etc... from a EA-82, 1989, dl 4-door/auto Trany, 2-wheel drive... Will the maniforl and SPFI work on my 1988 wagon? ...Everything looks the same? or is the computer set up different etc..

mmmmmmmmm....... cleaaaaaaar buuuuuuudget.........

I have an 88 dl wagon. I got a chance to buy (pugs) 14" rims or 15" rims... mainly for light off road and commute. ... possibly do a lift in the winter... I just want to give the car a bit of a lift with the tires... any preference regarding the 14" or 15" rims? Will 14" make that much of a difference? and just hold out for the 15"? seems the bigger rims have a better selection on tires... but will probably have to lift in order for the 15" tires to clear...? your thoughts... thanks guys, all good info... learning as I go along so great to have this board.

I have had the pin strip out that retains the bottom gear on the distributor so it twisted a bit, I still had spark but was not insinc with the piston position... this is very rare so look at that last. Do you have a good spark or a weak spark... can't imagine that being the problem.... usually something would happen if there was some spark. Fuel on the plugs... sounds like you got lots of fuel too... hmmmmm... Not much help... but welcome to the board. Someone will come along and give you somemore ideas.... there is also a "Search" feature above, you can go look at some of the older posts regarding "no start" etc..

I took a drive (used fam. car, not older subaru) from the Dry side of Washington to the Wet Side (Seattle) to visit the U.W. hospital so I Kept my eye's open for any...older Subaru's on the highway... not many if any seen, ... my gosh it's like the Indy 500 so to all those that take their older roo's out on that 6 lane race way... anywho... coming over the pass I did see this future member with all their possesions headed for a new life in the Seattle area:

My guess is fuel pump and or filter, fuse etc.... spark and no fuel, no fire. Do a search, lots of past topics of how too test etc...

I have to reply to this one.......what:eek: !!! I need to keep this post in my glovebox, no way will I ever remember that when it goes.....

sorry to post this here but a quick ? while loading up hood river tent sites are there picnic tables at each tent site? Thx for the reply. Rushing to get ready for the morning drive:grin:

My Nephew took his old wagon out and beat it too death... and pushed it passed that point... incredible tough runners that's for sure!

Your radiator cap may be leaking slightly. This will prevent preassure build up and will cause it too run hot. I usually start with that... replace cap if old, assure seating surface where cap seals is clean and smooth, (even if you need a new radiator you will have a new cap to start with) If that isn't the problem.... sounds like radiator plugging up.

Welcome, congrats on your double score for the wagons. You got two die hard Subaru addicts in your neck of the woods... I suspect they are both busy preping for the show this weekend at Hood River other wise they would have sent you a welcome. Yea... I love running these cars around. I park by Olds on the weekend and use my 88 dl, wagon on the weekend. I am driving it out to work tomorrow, last road test till fri-morn when all of Subie land heads for Hood River, OR. Not doing anything next weekend? go too the gathering.

Scoobyclimbs.... WOW.. that is such beautiful country you drove through... no wounder you took pictures!!!!!!! Your car looked liked it belonged in the picture too I could send you a picture of a tumble weed if you would like? arrrg... I hate this area ... boring sagebrush.....

Model? Mine was the o2 sensor, just a thought if you have one of those.