Indrid cold

I was thinking of removing my a.c. system as no longer works and don't have the funds to get it working. Or for some reason should I keep it on the car.... ? Don't care about resale value... From other posts it seemed a bit much to convert and or recharge. Currently all the ref. leaked out so system is empty. Should I keep the coil up front to protect the radiator or rip it out? I want to keep compressor under hood and possibly use it for pumping up tires etc.. so I guess I just remove anything that looks a.c. associated? anything I shouldn't remove? I have an electric cooling fan that I guess needs to be hardwired as that is controled by a.c. operation? 88 dl, wagon, SPFI. EA-82 Thx for the posts. Lots of good info.

I may take you up on that if I can get off early enough Thursday... my plans are still etchey...

Why will he need a puller if his axel and disc hub is shot?... cant he just smack the end of the axel with a hammer to beat it out of the Housing (use wood as softner)... it's ruined any way right? or am I missing something..... or is this a noob question?:-\

Last year there was a local car show, a section was dedicated to the newer extreme gas economy cars and they, like this post always challenge each other on how to get the best mpg. Can't remember any exact numbers but they were calculating difference do too wind drag off side view mirrors and removing them and any other off loadable weight (x-tra seats etc..) If you took the roof rack, how about antenna, & both side mirrors (if allowed by law). Or design and build a new set that would induce less drag.....

We don't see alot of posts like yours and I wish others would do more of, you know, just the basic stuff of cleaning up a car and those little things that add some personal expression and addition of safety items, lets us know your alive, kicken and loving your Subaru. oooo....nice shoes for the Subaru. Yup... looks clean, yea original seat covers! Skull for shift knob... speaks of your youthfull drive and fire-X, hmmm.... good idea. I like the fire-x idea as my next safety addition. I recently picked up a seat belt cutter and I was going to velcro it somewhere in the overhead, but I think I will attach it to the fire-x for easy reach. Appreciate the post... and submit a photo when done with your roof rack, always looking for ideas.

I am impressed on how he secured the roof rack to the car.... bolts... we don't need no STINK'N BOLTS....

whew... luckly I didn't check too see what my millage was before I put up the rack... won't know the difference :-p

all right... Let's hear it for Eastern Washington... You have the meanest Roo on the Dry-side of the mountains! Yea, good idea....

Make sure you remove the radiator...... ooops I forgot that one... A.C., power steering lines can stay intact and just roll back and tie off to keep out of way. Do a search, see threads below. With your experience you shouldn't have a problem.

I just replaced my 02 sensor and came across the same thing: short 2" stub wire from sensor and connector 2 feet away....hmmmm.... Someone had posted that the length on this type (single wire) probably won't make a difference so I followed his post and used the Universal 02 unit. I took the old lead which all ready had one cut and splice, stripped wire and soldered the wire together at both locations, (mechanical connectors are fine) then shrink wrap connections. I did a resistance check and vertually none in added length... and how else could it been run anyway? Connected and ran great.

Azsubaru, thanks for following through on the last question and thanks for the heads up on tightening against the alum. heads.

Thanks Azsubaru.... that's what I thought. I didn't want to be taking more off if I didn't and that seems the easiest looking back. Re-use the same exhaust gaskets or a new set be needed?

I don't have a crows foot, 22mm I think is what it would take. I figured I would buy the socket type but found that was a waste of $. Crows foot may be the answer... but don't know... I guess that is what I am asking?

1988 ea-82, SPFI, (non-turbo) Had code so changed o2 sensor. Running 100% better! What is the secret to getting the o2 sensor out and in on this make, there is like zero room. I finaly got it out but on the install I had to put a small pipewrench on the body of the sensor and give it a snug as impossible to get my brand new o2-socket on it. I hated to exert force on the body and not the nut flats but the code cleared so sensor works and my wagon is running fantastic. I was thinking I would have too loosen the exhaust manifold/flange bolts and lower the exhaust pipe down to get it out and get proper torque on the install, ... but I think my snug was enough too keep it in there with out destroying the unit. What is the usuall way to get to this little unit? Tricks? Tools?

Under the hood I got green plugs and white plugs. When do I plug the green ones in (set timing and read codes & ?) When do I plug the white ones in ? When do I plug both sets in ? ................................ 88 wagon,EA-82, SPFI, I had a bad EGR solenoid so I got a spare off my parts rig and replaced. (tested good in resistance and operation.) Now code 35 Purge valve code is flashing however that tested good with resistance but I didn't check vacuum lines and power it up (click, click) so I will do that next. I set timing with green and white connected and stumbling very bad. Had been acting up a bit but now seems worse. Plug wires are tight but I could use a new set and have new plugs..... I have to feather the gas to build rpms. This has been acting this way for some time and getting worse so figure I better dive-in. Took EGR valve off and cleaned, tested good and installed with new gasket. .............................. When setting timing on fuel injected models Chilton book states to assure the Idle switch is ON and go too section 4, then too connect the green connectors. How does one assure the Idle switch is "ON".... thats all for now...whew....

Nice... welcome, and another wet side of the mountain owner! Don't forget about the Subaru Gathering in Hood River Or. in August!!!!

As for centering your thoughts, I kind of think of it this way..... any car can and will break down on you, from $40K SUV'S too $150 Subaru's... it's man made and mechanical. Take the breakdowns as blessings as your learning the in's and out's of the car. You have a choice, empower yourself to know these rigs enough that you can run it and fix it if you had too with-out your local mechanic or just don't bother. But make sure you have fun with these rigs and don't rush the repairs. I know what you mean as others seem so much more mechanicaly inclined and make it look easy but that comes from time, mistakes and experience which builds confidence. Noob with a wrench.

Just thought I would post a pic. of my wagon and back from weekend camping. The rack makes it so nice to put bulk items....dog in back seat... dry stuff in the back, was a very nice weekend.

To a ground point. sorry I gave you some bad advice there... (late last night) after looking at my 84 Brat, the newer models like my 88 wagon use double wire, thus I use a paper clip to make a horseshoe bend to complete circuite at connector, yours probably uses a single wire from the Temp-sensor (? yellow wire) to activate the fan. My guess is as the radiator gets hot the contacts inside the sensor closes and a direct path to ground is establised through the radiator..thus only one wire. On a single wire I would just touch it too ground. Gently pull wire connector from Temp sensor and stick wire up inside connector and run it to a ground point, (bear metal/under screw) that should close that leg of the circuit and start fan when engine is started. Hope this isn't more confusing nor wrong...

Not sure if this is the same as my 88 wagon but, disconnect the temp. sensor wire from the Temp-stat, mine is found on the side of the radiator and use a paper clip bend a u and make a jumper between the hot side, this should close the circuit and start the fan when you start the car. Closing the circuit on that leg is like faking out that the sensor is wanting too cool the radiator down and should start the fan motor. Or run two wires from your battery and disconnect the power wires too the fan and wire it right too the battery, that ought too get the fan going. If it doesn't run the motor is bad. Hope this helps...

Oh you guys, that is too funny...... !!!!! Hey, Door prize it at the WCSS-8 at HoodRiver in August! ooooo... better yet, Raffle it! $1. ticket.

My guess would be continued condensation under your distributor. When mine got that wet I had to remove dist.cap and wash with rubbing alcohal (I get at local drug store and get highest % of alcohol content) also push in the spring contact inside and on top of distributor cap and wash with the rubbing alcohol then warmed up with hair dryer to assure moisture out of cap. I even poured just a bit down the dist. with hopes of quickening evaporation of the water.... not sure if that's the smartest thing but... the object is too get that alchohol to displace the moisture and assit in evap. it out of the engine. I had to do this 2 or 3 times till engine got hot enought to get rid of moisture out of crooks and crevasis. Hope this helped. My .o2 cents. *If you get into water an earlier post someone said they take a rubber glove, snip each end of finger and run wires through, slip glove over dist. and zip tie around each finger and base creating a water proof shield.

I wonder if this approach would work on my Mother-Inlaw??? I just came back from Utah yesterday...was all over the state but no way to tow one back... plus my wife would have resented the competition.

Welcome..... 88 gl wagon... Me too!

Hey, Hey, Donna; *couldn't resist Welcome too the site, were almost neighbors Not very often a new contact from the dry side of the mountains. As for issues.... sorry... no idea. Someone will get you going in the right direction. good luck