Indrid cold

They have too make a living and a profit on the business or why sell cars. It's one of those circle of life things. It is high... understandable they will have to keep it up a bit for negotiating reasons. One of the mechanics or salesmans kids will probably get a great deal on it if it doesn't sell.

Cathodic protection....... (Sacraficial rod/material) Which metal would make the best Cathodic protection? (zinc?) as recomended by Torxx? Sounds like this is used.. I know they make different rods for diffent mix of materials etc... as for puting strips of a sacraficial rod into the engine....great idea! As long as it couldn't reduce down and make its way to the water pump...Thunk... But, could this also be a bolt on idea? You know a bit of sacraficial metal into the coolant line with a connecting wire back too the engine to form a circuit so a person could add this feature at any time, not just when the engine is apart? More ramblings: .01 cent worth. (probably less) The most common application (in the home) is in the water heater. There is a long rod that extends down into the tank which is attacked leaving the tank uneffected by the reaction of dissimilar metals & fluids....untill the rod is eaten up. Anytime you have dissimilar metals make contact electralisis comes into play. The rate of reaction depends how well the metals get along, or don't get along... I had no idea this was an issue on these engines! Absolutly something too consider. I would have too agree with Torxx that it would be of a metal more easily attacked (Zinc) then the base metal..(Alum. rod in a Alum engine).(anyone know a good metalergist?) Do a search on the internet and find who makes the Zinc ones and ask them what other mixes they may have and or recommend for these engines. Interesting subject...... this could make an interesting follow up. I know someone probably knows all about this and will post but interesting..

WOW..... what can I say but... "WOW"... I got a Brat...... but nothing like that. Good job....

for $150..., runs with some basic repairs... fresh paint and if it died tomorrow your out $150. SCORE......SCORE......

#4. *Will be my first WCSS8 mug

I like the dash modifications, and glove box radio... interesting, (out of sight).... but when you put everything back together you put the steering column on the wrong side....

I am kind of a noob to this but why would driving on the rim mess up your axle or anything else? I mean would the axel know the difference? possibly more vibration but o.k, it was short lived duration.... It probably didn't do any damage...if something did fail because of this then it was probably ready to go anyways... THESE ARE TOUGH LITTLE CARS.... I bet your rim was pitched after 26 miles Sounds like it was a good lesson learned. I picked up a co-worker along the hwy. one day... no cell phone, car jacked up with this ....ahh shoot look on his face. The same thing... new used car and he never checked the rims to make sure they matched... gave him a lift into town.. Besides... if it did break something....replace it.

I will be going to SLC at the end of May if the scheduall holds.

With nose elevated... take radiator cap off, run to warm up, tug on accelerator cable to rev engine, top off radiator while at high rpms, put on cap and seal radiator. also: What to do with old phone books: (I lay two phone books down then a third on top to build a ramp so front tires are sitting on top of 2 phone books) works great to raise car to just right hight to work on, fill radiators etc...

I found the connectors under the hood, 1 set of green and 1 set of white connectors(brwn wires) to read codes. book says if I connect both sets at same time it clears memory; If I connect just the green connectors that would do what on codes? If I connect just the white connectors that would do what on codes?

I will go flip it.... LOL ......... YOU GUYS ARE JUST EATING THIS UP AREN'T YOU!!

Hey, I shut off 88 wagon, running lights won't go off. I sprayed silicone spray in key area...turn on and off... no diff. Can't shut running lights off... any ideas? Yea.. the switch got me... My son drives the car... he just lets me know when something isn't working or acting up... its this agreement we have. As long as it runs it's "His"... once it doesn't it's "Your car's broke, Dad." ... I think the kids now days call this as "OWNED"... his day will come... oh yes.... he will need something and I will just pour on the salt... Bruhahahahahahahhahh

My family, is more like....disfunctional....or non-functional... but I LOVE EM!!! The red 88 is my son's daily driver(pre-roofrack), the 88 wagon behind is parts, the farthest back is 82 & rust free, almost perfect ....almost except no engine, cracked dash...ahhh... anyway will be my lifted rig... (someday)... the Brat.. is at home in the driveway awaiting some loving attention. I feel like the Focker family... celebrating mediocrity...

*sorry no help here but... FLASH.... OH.... THOSE ARE THE CONNECTORS!!!!!!! I appreciate the photo and the link.... thx for the help. (Noob with a wrench.)

my thoughts.... 1.) Would it be a good learner car?. Yes and no. Yes, as you will get your hands dirty and learn about these cars.. they apply somewhat to other cars but really... does my 84 Brat function anyway like my 2000 Ford past the Alternator or water pump... no. But could it be a learning experience.. yes. 2.) Worst possible scenarios... when I bought my first Subaru (more so for my son then myself) ... I knew NOTHING and prior to buying I exclaimed to my wife... "But what if I buy it and it doesn't even make it home? I don't even know how to work on this thing?" she replied, "Well, till it dies, just enjoy the ride!" ahhhhhh... and I was fortunite, my son got a years use out of it. I enjoyed the ride so much (fixing, tinkering, 4x4) that I bought me a wagon! Hooked!.... The car is 20 years old, it WILL have problems. If you have limited funds (buying diapers & formula) and need a rock solid transportation, then maybe now isn't the time for you to get into these... but if you have a bit of time, patients and trickling funds, not a life or death situation for steady transportation then problems can be resolved, and when you learn the next car will be so much cheaper! There is a learning curve with these cars,the first one will cost you more then the second etc.. the more you know.. the cheaper they get;) . 3.) How do I check them... well... test drive it if it runs, let it come to temperature... my guess is something is wrong with it... but hey... if you got time and want to learn here is the place to be It is only money. They print it every day. The water is fine... My 2 cents...

I know this is a simple thing but; I was checking my gas and filling up my oil (front seal leak) and as I was tightening my oil fill cap I noticed it just kind of rattled when twisted on hmmmm... (remembering others earlier post on how these engines build negative pressure and these caps must seal) I noticed the gasket in the oil cap was hard/brittle and very thin and was not sealing. so I found some rubber gasket material, cut a new one and now nice and tight. (I will call local dealer and see if original can be had.) Still learning and appreciate all the great posts.

O.K., got them wired.... hmmm... LOL.. you win. I prefer the lower profiled lights rather then Mikie ears. When I was laying out this rack I found an expensive (mega bright) low profile set apprx $120 and put them on my wish list, I was hoping this cheap set would get me by... not close. (Noobs ) Soooo..... Went out and got a set of cheap but functional rectangle lights which produces a long-range white beam. (A bit bigger then my wish list lights but liveable.) I will change the other two out later. When I installed the wiring I oversized the wires as I figure I would up-grade to the higher rated lights so these new lights will plug right in. I will save the others for some future use. It was a fun and learning experience. I greatly appreciated the input. I will start preperation for next project: clutch & new engine seals, in about 2 months, saving $. ...... Preperation-A through G were complete failures. We now have a working proto-type. Ladies and gentlmen, I want to introduce you too Preperation-H!

LOL... o.k.... and do they work, I suspect not very well... but will use them up front on future mods... so hey... I may have to go get another set.....

The lights aren't my thing, I much prefer round or square lights, but hey, if they work, they work. I'm looking for low profile , still looking for the right lights... mo$ BTW - it's UltimateSubaru.net . ....oops.. yea got the sticker right, not on the picture though. Appreciate the input.

Update....removed two of the sucky lights and put on two that is a bit more functional... then rotated the two outside lights to use as side lights... so now I think it is safe to drive again with out further threats regarding poor roof mount Illumination techniques. I deleated some of the other pics to condense... thanks again... A Noob scratch built that I put together. I didn't have a wire feed and had to use an arc welder/stick. Next time I will hold out for a wire feed. As my welding thin .065 wall sucked. I didn't have a work bench so wrestling on the ground with it more then I wanted too. We had our moments together but I think it came out all right. My wife asks, "Why?" LOL... honestly, .... I don't know?.. cause its there? The front of the rack is set to hold the spare tire after I lift and go larger tire. Later.....

Did the Roo's pinch it? (ru, roo... you know.. word play...) *sorry...just trying to lighten the pain.... That sucks...So I take it you guys don't sleep with your Subaru's? *this is just getting worse..... O.K., we appreciate you sharing your loss with us, we feel your pain, and hope you recover your land cruser.:-\

congrats and hardy pat on the back. .. try doing all that with a 2006 car...not.. I am looking at doing the same thing shortly... will be my first time so glad too hear positive posts like yours!

I never have on my Brat. Just primered my rack for my 88 dl, Wagon. First one, will post pics after painted/installed. Suggestions?... well... I used 1"x1"x.065" square tubing. 1/4" thick plate for pads... Chop-saw with metal-carbide cutting blade to cut metal. I belive 3/4" tubing would be too light as not recommended by someone else on the site as being too flimsy, so I went with the 1".. and I agree after getting it together. 4-1/2" grinder with sanding disc. to dress up welds and prep surface. I did the Homedesperate thing and spent $40 & 2 sanding discs for totall of $60. You need a wire feed welder. No stick... what a pain-trust me on this one..... rack over cab....may have to use use a gusset from the front verticle post to horizontal top rail that extends over cab. (Gusset, n. A triangular insert.) or a knee brace) to help carry load from front of rack back too front legs. Others have said spray paint in a can won't hold up... I am still going to give it a try.. but actually do the paint in a can. I am trying metal paint in can with brush. I used sanding discs with my hand grinder (not grinding disks) to smooth and remove mill-scale, weld spatter, then ran sandpaper over surface by hand, wiped clean then used green scrub pads that Janitors use to remove any final residue and spayed it with primer. Let it sit a day then lightly wipe with green pad again and another coat. Hope any of this helps... still Noobing it.. so glean from it what you believe to be useable.

Idiots!!.... and we pay for their brain dead manuevers.... I feel for you. In these older Roo's we don't have the benefits of Airbags, extra re-inforced steel doors etc... when I take my wagon or Brat out I drive like I am on a motorcycle and I am a target as we a definently are at a disadvantage verses a bigger SUV etc... but we are definently squirlier! (spelling -5) Glad too hear you didn't colide into him... but sorry to hear about the damage done to your car. Oh... and nice job on the Tune-up.