Indrid cold

Sydloyd and I discussed this last year when I did my window and don't want to beat topic up again, yup, agree he has vallid point and expertiese to match.

Classic example of, "Getter done before the snow fly's" noting the car ramps and stuff under :-\ . All your buddies were out playing and you are on ramps... of course if your like the rest of us you got one that runs and one in process!

so far Torxx, (3rd post I think) gave the information that you were looking for. I replaced mine. First one...and still in place... problem is no way to test it till you hit something or flip over cause yes, they are part of the integrity structure of the car. Would I install another..... probably. With window out a window shop may charge you a 1/2 hr rate or about $80. I think, you could go that route.... if not here is what I did. Yes, clean all the old Urethane off. Any scratch marks must be sealed. I used a can of spray primer and touched up with a Q-tip to prevent rust under window. Try using something that won't scratch surface when removeing. Doesn't have to be perfect, just clean. Follow what Torxx said, I cleaned inner window trim with Alcohal, then put on the activator, about 1/2" in prior too glueing down. Window shop also gave me a little marker that seals bare metal along the inside trim on car,...doh... same as primer but make sure no untreated metal. The "Hot" window glue MUST be 200 deg F. at least. I bought one glue gun/solid metal from Home depot. The cheap $1. caulking guns arnt strong enough to push glue out so I spent $9. and got a solid, strong caluking gun to apply and had another that was solid enough to do the job, so you need two of them, one for each side. Here's the trick. I heated my glue in the BBQ next to the car. I used a small aluminum pan, 1-1/2" of sand on the bottom, and covered to 1/2" sand on top. I set a thin path brick 1" or so thick on lower rack, then two tubes of the hot glue packed in sand on top of the brick. I stuck a Needle thermometer (small dial face with a long prope) into the sand in between the glue and turned BBQ on med-low, took about 1.5 hours. The solid brick under the glue will be the main heat sink, the sand should protect the glue from to hot on top and cold on bottom etc. I let mine heat too 200 deg, but next time will go too 240, let the heat come up and turn heat down and get it too hold there too assure tubes are fully heated.. Probably 250 deg above may be too much? but the glue MUST be over 200 deg. I can't remember if I pre-snipped the ends or pre-punchered the tubes? any way, gloves, glue and follow Torxx directions for applications along with directions on tube. Must look like this ^ when applied. I pre-fit the glass and used wooden shims (spacers) on the bottom to center window and got partner too look at gap on side so we both new too center side to side. We wore glove, put the tubes in, made the application to the windo trim, grabbed the window and set in. We didn't have a very smooth bead at first and it leaked at the top, ... of course, so I heated the tube up again and filled the gap at the top and shoved the trim in.... no leaky after that and the trim is in too stay! I got my window from a U-pull for $15. I got two tubes of glue, activator and some trim paint seal from local glass dealer for FREE... couldn't beat free as I think they felt sorry for me...wear old cloths when you go in and ask questions. Interesting experience.

*scratch head..... I think my 59 GMC truck had wire....like a spring inside to keep the bend uniform and hose from collapsing... cant imagine anything like that in there today... unless a modification prior to you buying it and or you found the missing screw driver that the previous owner lost when he was installing the hose... :-\

I smiled when I read your post: long story short my Nephew found my Red Subaru Wagon in Seattle he had painted the wheels BRIGHT YELLOW .... after we replaced motor and before he delivered it he painted them BRIGHT RED... Arggg.... Kids. Color? Lime Green?

Hey, EA-82, F.I., none Turbo. You know those 1/4 inch heater hoses that run to the carb and out the back the dealer wants $14. apiece.... so.... I used 1/4" fuel line as one split, .... the back one is a sharp 90.deg bend... seems to be o.k. but not as tubular as the factory formed... Any problems with using the fuel line rather then the factory formed 1/4" hose?

Wouldn't that be reason enough to pull it out? I left mine in when I tore into the engine as I couldn't figure how to get it out... but now I am scratching my head, should I change it?

Probably the IAC VALVE, located on the front of the (Carb) F.I., you will see a 3/4 black hose come from the air filter housing too it. Squirt some silicone based lubricant into the valve .... if don't have use WD-40. That was what mine was doing as cold weather and gets gummy and it lags behind adjusting so give it a try and if it makes no difference, no harm done.

So tell us about the Brat....

Don't believe everything in the Chiltons... I am finding that out. An 84 takes no special tools... hardly any, getting hands dirty, reading past posts and diving in are the best way to learn. I found the more that I do, the more I learn and with that knowledge I stand a chance of fixing if mine ever decides to yack a lung along the back road... Good luck!

Maybe if I gave away free gas and hung pork chops around my neck someone would go to the hills with me in the Dry-Cities area (Tri-Cities/South East side of state or the "Dry-Side"). Lots of Rx's? street cars, some Brats but no reall gathering here that I know of. I am a bit older then the kids that go so run with diff. crowd. I usually just head out and drive the back roads and test me and the car... I am learning about some spots here... just not there yet. I may be interested in a drive to Spokane some time... even if it is just an informal gathering... could be fun. Keep me posted. Other post's say summer bash might be at Hood River, OR. I will make that.

I am sooooo jealous... new tranny mounts, engine mounts? *actually couldn't add anything as only done one...just so jealous I had to vent.

My 88 wagon was doing the same thing as my alt went bad so changed it with a used spare and went away...now my used one is now acting up so yea.. I believe it is just a strange thing these do when the alt is tweeking out. Also; don't forget to post that problem is "FIXED" as this is a good bit of info for Noob's to know about.

With regards too, "Grossgary's" post, which sounds like he has lots of experience with torquing front main castle nuts, ...... he must use his Calibrated Elbow with an unknown tolerance with a cheater bar so that kind of tells me... if it works for him and hasn't failed, don't sweat the small stuff and put the torque on the high side of the ball park, align the castle nut for the cotter pin and it will be fine. My .o2 cents. (hope that addresse's your thoughts.)

Hey, looking at another wagon to buy, current owner says 2nd gear doesn't work.... rest gears are fine just skip second and goes great:-\ when it was running. (Manual tranny, Hi, low 4x4) 84, wagon gl. I think as I just drove by it. He was redoing the electrical so main wiring harnes is ripped out as he wanted to change everything to the old style gauges, ... I want the motor as he says it was running good. My guess is the tranny is shot as 2nd gear doesn't work. My thought is this car is good for motor only and not worth effort. I really don't want to mess with the wiring. Is this a Jewel in the rough or an opportunity for a cheap used motor.???????? He is asking $100, I am thinking more like $75.

I have an 88 dl, Wagon, nothing fancy, plain Jane. My son who currently drives it will be leaving soon so he won't need it. I bought it for me, but let him use it .... now that I can really call it mine....... Would it be too uncool to put a Safari rack / light bar on top of my wagon without being lifted. I don't have the money to lift & Rack, but have access to welder and misc to build rack now. but if it would look stupid... maybe I will lift later and put rack on top after lifted. 3/4" square tube be sufficient or 1" ? All I really use it for is mild back road driving so the lights would be nice to have and running around town on weekend, it's my play rig. Thanks. ........................................ off subject, took my 88, wagon for the first time up into the hills, raining cold and found some dirt hills to run up... *first time ever... I was amazed how the wagon pulled it self up.. , push the AWD button, point car at hill and up it goes... LOL...mud flying everywhere, it was fun! Big puddles were fun too, I thought it would kill the motor that much water in the air...but didn't slow down a bit. I am learning what all the noise is about and what I am supposed to be doing with these things! . Noob at the wheel. ........................................

Well, kind of a noob to all this so any reply is better then none... I think.. any way here is my simple point of view. Say high to the flies! *read Associated press about the fly fun you guys are having. Good luck. What got me hooked is I can still work on these cars. I scratch my head a bit but doesn't take too many special tools to work and and kind of challenging.... plus my son can run cheaply.

Hood river would be great for us from Eastern Wa., just a quick drive down river and jump into Or. Sounding good.....

DOJ.....? Honestly now, someone throw a Noob a freaking bone here! *Best Dr. Evil voice I could muster.

If you take your fuel pump out/remove filter have a golf tee ready to slide inside fuel line and clamp as you will drain the tank if your remove the fuel line. Yea, start with simple thing first, main filter...probably back by pump. Also, no duh but... NOT having glass bulb drop lights which can easily break and be an ignition source and or confined space, tight garage and electric heater on floor.... I am kind of a nervous nelly when it comes to flammable stuff.... not scared...just respect it. There were some earlier posts regarding sedament in the fuel lines, never heard of such a thing but I guess it does happen. They blew out with air... argggg.... blow tourch just short of an ignition source... also read where someone had to run new lines. Age of pump may be a factor.... pressure test, pressure side of pumps is listed in Chiltons for Carb. or Fuel Injected. Try doing a search on topic. my .o2 cents.

Thanks for the heads up on the loose wire issue..... The more I learn about these cars the more I laugh about the dependability about these cars and how hard the kids push them...flying down the highway with a Big S on their chest.... I am a Noob, but some things I noticed in your photo.... 1. I believe that is an Original Alternator... or was from some rig. Lets say your rig is an 88, that makes that alt about 17 years old... I might be wrong.. but that green band.... looks Factory. 2. The 90 deg. hose under alt... original.... 3. No timing belt covers... for those quick (along side road) changes. "Belt covers, we don't need to stupid Timing belt covers"..... 4. Years of grease and build up.... gives it that, well worn look like a good pair of jeans. When I was early 20's my rig was a 69 Ford van. It had alot of the same traits that these Subaru's do... that is they go, and go, and go...

EA-82, 14MM... I am 99% sure. If u need a cheap set, "Harber Freight" if you have one in town has a 9 piece set for like $10. cheap but it worked...

I guess everyone is so jealous they don't want to show support and do the Bannan dance with you.... Nice find!! and oh yea...

88 dl, Wagon, Throttle body Fuel injection, Non-Turbo. So driving along, excelerate... (been stumbling lately during acceleration) stumbles... then...THUD... "Charge" light eluminates RED, "Brake light", comes on RED, and the "Stop lamp" goes red, the stumbling part goes away??? I was about mile from home and it seemed to run good and parked it. Popped hood, Alternator belt still on and turning but I notice the engine is now lightly pulsing at idle. I suspect the alternator went out, thus the charge light and the light show and possibly running on a default setting on computer?... any thoughts. ... and any ideas as for the stumbling if that continues (timeing is right on). EDIT: NO more stumbling, didn't realize a weak alt., battery, loose connection on wire could cause this? Got alternator from my parts car, also newer Battery, replaced and running great! I was told that a dead battery and weak Alternator can cause lots a strange things to happen in a Subaru.(dash lights act funny, radio would go on and off unless fan was on High, ).. and other strange stuff..... so while I was there I put a fresher battery in, cleaned all wire connections... so not sure if it was a battery or weak alternator but the all the gremlins are gone... Life is good. All Hail the Subaru... *snow tomorrow maybe