Indrid cold

First time is a pain in the keaster... and takes way longer than one would have thought, after that it goes much quicker. Check the "Search" task bar above, lots of info. Here is a quick link on packing bearings with grease. I like to wear rubber gloves... I have used the cone washers/springs washer mine many times over, however I have recently purchased new spring/cone washers for next time as they just look tweeked and wore out. Also, i could never find the right kotter pins in auto stores so I order a few spares from Subie dealer and keep them in the tool box set aside for axles. Ball joints can be done any time so put them on your list unless you have time to venture further.

...stupid Grimmlins... never know when they pop up and make something so simple a pain. We buy and sell these cars "as is", it's a toss of the dice sometimes, we try to be up front but there is always a chance things can go screwy and they do. No ones fault... just happens when these cars are 25+ years old. referring back to that bracket and my failing memory, ... ahhh, yes.. that's where it was. good seal their, and I think Blue Silicone on the "O" ring is a good idea. Good picture details. I keep a small dental mirror (cheap) in my tool box, great for snooping into tight spots. Don't feel bad for a re-do, on my coolant leak I thought it was a bad head gasket so I changed it out. Still leaked? so I made a small test plug for my radiator cap area, hooked to a compressor and gently fed about 10 psi into my cooling system. I could cuddle right up on the engine as it was cold with flashlight and dental mirror and I found a pin hole on the head exhaust flange. I learned that on coolant leaks you have to find the exact source so not fixing the wrong thing as that coolant creeps everywhere. That is why everyone keeps hinting about those upper hoses tucked away... we all been there on those. Give that elbow hose a squeeze... their a pain to get too once back together. You can't replace everything just because.. understand the fund limitations and it will probably last years longer. Grab that snout of that water pump, feel for any movement side to side or play in the shaft... I am surprised it wasn't visible earlier... hmmmm.. nor in the video as i watched the weep-hole on the water pump...... hmmmm.... still guessing... let us know when you go it fixed.

No, you do NOT need to take to garage. If the bearing is coming out get a large punch and come from the opposite side, through the hub and place end of punch on exposed part of center bearing race, tap top, then bottom, then right left etc.. and it will push out the seal and then the bearing. The more the bearing moves out the more hitting surface you have. Keep an eye open for a 3/8 brass shaft at scrap metal yard etc... If they are coming out I use steel as once you pound on the center race there done anyways.. although I have used them again. For installing bearings I purchase a set screw shaft collar just a bit smaller than the bearing so when I tap? (pound) new bearing in I hit it and not the bearing. Assure to keep it square. I also use the same shaft collar with a bigger washer than the bearing to pull in a new axle (Assure I.D. of shaft collar and washer is larger than axle o.d. other wise it won't work on axle install.). By sliding a washer on and tightening castle nut it will pull the axle through hub, by stacking large washer than shaft collar I repeat process till axle is sucked all the way through hub. I have had some axles so loose I grabbed axle with channel locks and pulled it through, but they are normally not that easy. Lots of ways if you do a "search" on task bar, but with washers, and shaft collars I find it works well for me. Look at your local, Farm supply and they usually have a large selection and fairly cheap. I keep them in a tool box ready to go with a socket for the axle nut, spare subie cotter pin and 1/2" breaker bar and tie-rod puller as I go that route. Something else I like to do is to take a 12" x 21" x 3/4" plywood and drill out the exact wheel bolt pattern and center area so it looks like a rim pattern on the board. I center it about 1/3rd up the board or the height of the axle above the ground while the car is resting on the blocks. I use this board to hold the wheel as I torque the castle nut so I don't have to put wheel on and lower etc or try and hold back etc... I just slip the board on and tighten axle nut, quick, simple. If I have to I put a 2x4 on ground to jam if to high etc.. I snug up castle nut about 1/3rd torque value, loosen, tighten almost to torque, loosen and then on the third I take it to torque. Old mechanic showed me that and not sure if it is gospel, but has worked for years for me. You can give rotor a spin between each torquing or what ever.... Also, assure front wheels are on the ground when your tighten the 14mm bolts on the Suspension arm Pivot bushing if those were loosened. Sorry so wordy but hope some of this might help. Everyone seems to have their own way. my .02 My two shaft collars are 2-3/4 O.D. x 1-3/4" I.D. with assortment of washer 3"+ o.d. with assortment of I.D. just larger than axle o.d. http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/shaft-collars/couplings-collars-and-adapters/power-transmission/ecatalog/N-cljZ1z12v0o

Your right... there are no other hoses in that area... just the water pump..... The fact that it held for a week is interesting... Tom above had to tweek the bracket/alignment as he bolted the tube back into place on that side bracket... I know of the bracket he wrote of but couldn't see it in your video, I don't have EA-82's at this time, so couldn't go look to compare. Assure the bracket on the supply tube is secured by a bolt through bracket to engine block and aligned to prevent it from pushing out or leaking. On my EA-82, I gently clean the out side of the "O" ring (don't remove as it will probably break) and smear with a silicone vacuum grease... spark plug boot grease is closely related, prior to installation, "O" rings like silicone grease. sounds more like something came un-done on the water pump... ... bolt wasn't torqued, or over torqued -(stripped out) As it leaks constantly your dead anyway so it becomes a re-do as that is the most likely cause, all it will take is time and a $13. gasket to pull water pump. Noted you run with out T-belt covers which makes this so much simpler..... your half way there. I looked in my book for torque value but wasn't listed? I know it isn't much... Floaties in the coolant won't create a leak but something across the "O" ring or cut in "O" ring may cause a leak... that is a lot of water so leaning towards water pump. Spray is probably from coolant landing on the T-belts and being tossed around. Let us know what you find as so far were guessing.

cam shaft seals are very easy to do and usually the main leakers.. along with front crank... also valve cover bolt seals, they take like 12" lb. torque. Also valve cover gaskets if cork, smear Grey automotive silicone let it dry, install but don't overtighten bolts... There is also an "o" ring on the distributor shaft near the top... if that goes bad it will leak... but this isn't a common one..

No, there is no fan switch in car unless previous owner wired one in. To get it working as it should, you need to determin if it it is the fan motor or Fan Sensor switch located on the passenger side of the radiator. Do a search on the topic above on the tool bar under... "Search" enter topic (fan sensor or switch) for an EA-81 engine and see what you find. Jumping 12 volt wire to the fan should get it to turn, if it does than it is probably your sensor. Almost easier to take out the 4 bolts and remove fan and work on bench, run a positive and neg. wire to two wires on fan motor and see if it turns when energized from car battery. Doesn't, bad fan motor as seller said. The sensor wire that connects to sensor can be jumped to ground which will by pass the sensor and start the fan even if it isn't up to temp. I like to use aligator clips, and turn key just before "start" and see if fan comes on... read in search.. good simple how to test in there. If the fan is running but still overheating... Your radiator could also be plugged up... they are about $130. new... so not to bad, Also the radiator cap may not be holding pressure (old) or look inside top of radiator where the cap makes a seal, it could be crudded up... clean that radiator sealing surface and the rubber seal on the cap, with a green scotch bright pad so the radiator cap makes a positive seal which builds pressure which raises boiling point so it won't boil... if that is the issue. My 84 has only one fan.. that is fine if you don't have A.C. I believe. Also, need parts? Rockauto.com is a great place to go. They ship fast and have some killer deals. These little engines don't like to be overheated.. that is a taboo but their tough so as long as they are pushing fluid in there that is as far as you want to push it, stay out of red area on temp. gauge. The loss of water and overheat is bad.. These are great little cars and sounds like you are learning. Chasing these issues down and fixing them are great experiences, it's a learning process and don't be upset by these hick-ups, see them as a challenge, a chance to learn. Hope this helps, Enjoy.

Best barn find, wreck save I have seen in a long time. Parts are out west... you will find them. only 43k miles on odometer.. wow... Excellent.

Time marches on..... and thin the herd. Older pic. of my daughter standing by my 88 dl, what seems like yesterday.... (wagon is gone) Now, working to get her drivers lic. my daughter drove the 84 Hatch for the first time (Manual tranny) Friday, the night before new owner came into town to pick it up. Note the phone book... so she could see over the dash! She did very well. The 82 Wagon is to be picked up Saturday from a guy in Vancouver area. That will leave us with the Brat as our fun car. For a High School driver for the daughter I was thinking of painting it a bright pink and on the plates put, "IRABRAT". I guess it's time to change my profile pic.

also note the correct position of the caliper to allow the pokie out thing on back of pad to slid into v-notch on caliper face. You probably knew that but....

yes you need the spacer, same era Gen-2 subaru. I understand your find, a car I purchased came with a odd length spacer, so couldn't put cotter pin in as nut wouldn't thread in far enough... wrong spacer.. so assure same general era of car. some can be stinkers to pull through. A smear of grease on bearing surface etc.. I would look at the axle.. possibly dimension another at the parts store. I looked at going to those sealed bearings (used in Electric motors). I was assured the 6207 was the critical number, the rest.. blahh, blahh, was more factory rating, speed, etc.. so everything you described should work. Do a "search" on that topic from task bar above regarding pulling them through. Everyone has their own way that works for them. I prefer several large washers as stacking spacers, (assure I.D. of washer is larger the O.D of axle and O.D of washer rests on hub), I use shaft collars like you would get from farm supply store just a tad smaller o.d. than the bearing to tap bearings in and use as spacers and axle nut and washers to pull axle through. Normally that first section should be easy enough to get the shaft end just past the hub to get one washer and castle nut on shaft end and tighten to begin the process... and repeat stacking washers/spacers and tightening nut to suck it through. sorry not much help but it should be working for you?

I just did what most do... I ordered Jerry's Tranny kit. Just bolts in. I painted mine a bright red... marks are for my notes... just in case he goes away... I can always make one. He's cheap, he's quick and his kits aren't that bad either!

Like herding cats, 3 beautiful, running Brats in repose..... rare sight indeed.

sale of Hatch in Spokane on hold... another day... sorry.

Yes use the EA81 console, boots but the linkage has to be modified with a 5-speed transmission modified tranny support. Bratsrus1 (Jerry) makes these kits. They work great and makes the interior looks stock... contact him. It's not that costly and he has a quick turn around time. That tranny mod. is great.. you will love the way it drives after.

If plans fall into place, the stars align, I was planning on being in Spokane that weekend... sure.... will cruise over to Safeway. Sorry, the Brat will be at home but my 84 Hatch is wanting some highway time. Will see how it pans out. Friday, 26th.

So are you looking at Fri, 26th at 5 pm? Spokane, by Pull & Save.. that is the Valley area just off the freeway from the new Mall area??

I had a DL... it was a great runner... The DL is perfect for young drivers as they have great control/traction in bad weather, are under powered which is a good thing and they are tough. Learn to drive defensively as no air-bags which is a concern but put a kid in an overpowered car and they seem to have an attraction for wrapping the car around a tree. Great cars to learn how things tick and fixing things... Enjoy the ride!

Nice Hatch.... You can put a full size spare under the hood. Starting out if there is a hick-up, consider it an opportunity to learn and bond with your roo. On any car there is a learning curve. This site will help a lot in smoothing that out. Tools, doesn't take to many. Parts are not that pricey and you will find these are easy to trouble shoot and repairs are not that difficult once you get through that beginner phase. Enjoy the ride and it will turn some heads! rockauto.com is a great source.

You can get a full size spare in there... Also, General Disorder did a good write up about some emissions can be removed, carberater adjustment for better performance if youre not in an emission testing area. Nice looking Brat...

First, I would remove some useless emissions. General Disorder did a great write up on removing a few items and then adjusting the carb. Others advocate putting in a Weber Carberator... but the first one doesn't cost anything and helps it run a bit peppier/smoother. Second, If you have some extra cash, put in a 5-speed transmission. Bratsrus1, builds tranny kits and you will have to locate a 5-sp tranny from a wagon from about a 82 to 89 wagon. This is the best mod you can do to start with but does cost. So lets say $150 for tranny, $1xx.00 for tranny kit, clutch disc.. and lengthen drive line which cost the most of all the parts so real price saving if you know someone who does drive-lines. (5 speed tranny is shorter than the 4 speed.) So do a "Search" on EA-81 engine and 5-speed conversion etc.. read, read, read,... I did both above on my 84 Brat and it is a great road warrior. Lifting a rig to me would be last on the list. Also, rust.... address the rust. Look where the jack points are and that under area can be treated by an under sealant. my .o2 Looks like a nice subie. $500. not bad.

You still working on a date????? Nice weather is on its way..... doesn't have to be anything formal...

Wire wheel... but... For hand power, a 1/2" copper fitting brush (plumbing section) is excellent for getting into tight areas (threads) and not as wimpy as a wire bristle tooth brush. Those don't look that bad ..... ?

Change belts with engine in car. Yes, do-it-yourself possible. NO special tools, possibly a cam spanner wrench/socket for setting belt tension but most just make something real quick. The cold sucks when doing them... been there, lived there, done that. "AAA"-with extended tow, 200 mile range. Not that unreasonable and peace of mind. Look on task bar above, "Search" timing belts and read away. It is cumbersome doing them the first time, after that... a lot easier. Possible find USMB member in your area or friend of a friend etc.. Alignment marks for timing, yes you have to align them, read that posts in the "Search".... lot of info.... First step is to trouble shoot, why no startie? Follow Northwet advise and let us know what you found out. good luck

Two months ago I noticed my front axles started making noise, then stopped, then started up again and realized what was happening is the clicking was happening on the colder mornings and now that it is winter my Hatch sounds like a tank clattering down the road till it warms up, you described as horse galloping down the road. Figure the cold is effecting grease viscosity but also figure they are wearing out and sound worse due to the cold temps. I will try those Empi's everyone talks about when it is time to change them out. My Hatch is an in town runner so I will run till near failure which is when I start feeling a constant vibration in the front or the noise is SERIOUS. The ticking is warning, heavy clunking is closer to failure.

I wanted to get some air drive ratchets. I looked at H.F. at what they had to offer, then drove to Sears, 3/8" & 1/4" drive air ratchets, 25 ft hose, couple air chucks and oil. Understanding these are home use, light duty air ratchets. The Sears had a better feel to them, looked better made etc.. Compared to the price of H.F. it wasn't that much more. I also ordered it on line from their in store Kiosk, which saved me 10% and then walked to the back of store for in store pick up. They have worked well for my garage adventures. Didn't realize how nice air driver tools help. Purchases H.F. shock/strut spring compressing clamps.. they work. H.F., Sheet metal nibbler. Actually works well... surprised the heck out of me. Lots of consumables, acid brushes, agent orange degreaser, rags, tarp but not a fan of their power tools, BUT why not if it does the job.