Indrid cold

50 foot extension leading to it, then you will be running off approximatly 90 volts. At least with my power at my house this is how it is. I drop about 10 volts every 25 feet. ................................ LOL.... never heard of such a thing.... creating resistance to reduce amperage.... clever!!! This made my day! Can't wait to tell the welders at work about that one Never tried to do autobody welding... some day.... some day.....

Q: is motor removable with just you and friend to lift it out? Yes, possibly, but better to have a third...I used two nylon slings and an 8 ft pole (pipe etc.) layed across hood, dropped slings on each side under heads and snugged up, put a guy on each end too lift up, one to pull motor forward and wiggle... Assure radiator was removed prior to pulling. Possibly a slight lift with floor jack under tranny to re-install. I am a "Noob with a wrench" so others can take it from here......

The bolt that is gone is the steering knuckles bottom bolt that holds the ball joint on. There is NO WAY POSSIBLE to seperate the ball joint from the knuckle. So if I understand this correctly: The ball joint is held into the knuckle by a bolt on the back side of the knuckle that clamps it in, the service book shows loosening bolt and wedging in screwdriver to spread recess so ball joint can be pulled out. And you are telling us that the stud out of the bottom of Ball joint is broke off preventing extraction as having no stud to pull down on??? That sucks.... The nut under the control arm is completely seized as well, so no taking it off at that point either. The only option I see left is to take the control arm off at it's origin pont and change the axle that way? (Is that even possible?) Yes... I had to do something similar but I also had my Tie-rod disconnected and loosened the rubber bushing end of the Leading rod (count nut rotations) {The leading rod bushings are at the end of the rod that runs from the control arm back to the body}.... that gave me enough movement to pull out on knuckle and friend placed board over axel end and rapped with hammer to pop out axel... hmmm.... not to sound like an old dad...but just in case as your laying on your back and kind of panickie......Lefty Loose...righty tighty on that Castle nut? I havn't done that many but never one totally seized on.... Maybe a touch of heat on that nut? Even if you have too take out knuckle with drive shaft attached you may beable to wrestle on a work bench or something... I don't have that much experience with the front ends... but saw your post at 4am.... and... I feel your pain! If I don't get this fixed I lose not only my car but my job, livelihood and will to live.... ............. *I need to let my son see this post... the next time he wants to borrow my car and I tell him to grab his bike and he justs laughs like people actually don't have anyone too help them or faced with these life's problems.* Wow... I hate when things like that happen, horrible learning curve on these things. Panic isn't good... but it does help sometimes. A personal suggetion may be to first protect the job by any means...second fix car when parts and funds become available. You may now find out who your true friends are as you search for a ride or trade something of value for parts, cash, etc..... Sorry I don't know anyone in your neck of the woods or I would give them a call. Good luck.

Wow... thanks for reply's, .... I guess they are a wanted item. I am not at the point that I need them right now so I will check them out for others on the board.... I will walk back down, take each out of the box, look them over and run to the bank for the money if good. Thanks for the quick reply. Mike

Hey, garage sale down street. Aluminum 5 hole rims from a 95 Subaru Loyal. Anyway they want $25 for all 4. (I looked at one, used but good cond.) Any way, all my Sube's are 4 hole rims. Do I want these 5 holed rims for anything like for conversions from 4 to 5 hole stud patterns as I have seen posted? It is hard for me to walk away from anything Subaru that is $25 or less. *Noob with a wrench. What do you think? (They will probably be gone but thought I would ask just in case...shhhh...my wife is asking what I am posting now....got to go... LOL)

Prevention: You can buy green and red little battery insulators prior to installing clamps and spray a battery sealant on clamps after installed.... I usually don't bother as I am CHEAP. I have noticed is the older the battery it seems to leak around the post & case, and the acid inside creaps up post and attacks the wire clamp etc.., capilary action kind of thing. Seems newer batterys will stay cleaner... it starts getting older, constant vibration or what ever.. they seem to gunk up more. summer temperature is harder on a battery then the cold months and more batterys die this time of year. I like to wear latex gloves or equal and safety glasses, I use water and sprinkle Baking Soda lightly on surface and a 3/4" wire copper fitting brush (buy at plumbing shop or home depot) to clean the posts and clamps, remove post and use wire brush to clean inside clamp etc... I remove battery, wash all surfices with a bit of dish soap and sprinkle Baking Soda where acid crust is visible and water and assure to wash drive way (prefer to do this over gravel) as the acid will attack and STAIN concrete! I fill battery with Deionized water (assure vent slot is visible just inside ledge) to allow battery to vent (about 1/2" from top). Wipe battery down and install. my 2cnts.

My sons 84 Brat with EA-81 engine is 8 deg. BTDC. Idle speed I think was 600-700 I will have too look at the other stuff when I get a chance. I hope this will give you some info at least....

Hot, tired (working out in sun all day on sprinkler system) and not thinking so thought I would post.. I own two Subarus, an 84 Brat that needs work which i will get going on in near future and an 88 wagon Fuel Injected that I just got in good condition and seems to be running strong. I get a call, do I want two Sube wagons? FREE... 1.) an 82 DL wagon, no engine, (no rust) looks good 4X4, manual trany, good intereir, body excellent except rear bumper where someone backed into post... not bad. *I am thinking this would make a great run around rig.. need engine and tires and I am sure front axels in time, etc.. 2.) an 87 wagon, 4x4, manual trany, bad lifters, window were left down, cats got inside and used it as a litter box and birth center...MEOW..^^ so wont keep this for road rig...parts ? *The engine is exact in my current 88 wagon EA-82 FI, .. I figure it would be great to get the engine out and keep as spare parts etc.. I also have a bad engine from my 88 that has a bad crank, figure I could take my heads off and put on the other engine that has bad heads and good crank side and maybe come out with a good engine. How hard is it to come up with a running EA-81 (I think that is what goes into the 1982 dl?) ? I can come up with a tow dolly and have a relation that says I can keep them out there till the 2nd coming... so long term storage no problem.. so.. am I looking at a pain in the butt regarding messing around with these two or will it be easier for me to just buy things as they come up and or put a search on the interenet... it would be handy to have the 87 wagon for parts and possibly the 82 *but who knows if I will ever start that project and how hard to find working engine* but who wants a junk yard and or dealing with car carcasses? My Mechanic skill level is intermediate level but want to learn when I have $ Your thoughts...?

It has had pannels replaced so yes must have been in some fender benders. My nephew.. die hard Sube lover (caught bug from him) showed me how all superfical as not damage too main body, no main parts ever removed, no chipped paint on main bolts or cracked welds... etc... as it got bent owner replaced, well taken care of. Interior is excellent, new front Axels, cd-player and the big one, goes straight down the road! The hood was in fairly good shape till they ran the motor cycle from the roof, down the front window (crack) down to front of hood...*wabble*.. and off ...*scratch* darn those kids....LOL... Can't be mad... my brother in Seattle said his son was loading up one of his Subarus on car trailer and it got away from him and rolled into neighbors house.. so I am gratefull to have it here in one piece! Can't wait till I get window fixed and cruise!

Here she is... finaly after months and months... Its a long story, bought in Seattle, bad motor, Nephew picked it up, found replacment motor, I drove over from East side of Washington, he showed me how to replace motor. He drove it over this weekend (Eastern side of WA) and had motor cycle on top & while unloading took out front windshield! 88 wagon, F.I., Manual 5 sp., 30+ mpg, Payed $140 car. $120.Motor, oil change misc $30. (Took tires off my sons brat as his is to be worked on while he drives this.) New tires, car, eng, etc... be about $500 so far.

Yes... Been awhile but I think I used plywood discs 5/8" thick, drilled hole to act like washers and kept doing what your doing. I am sure there are easier ways but had to use what I had... (hope that made sense)

From the Transaxel or the steering knuckle? Transaxel should be spring pin to knock out... only drives out one way! By using a round punch up by the power side there should be a recess (indent at pin) push from oppisite side. From the Steering knuckle I had to give mine a tap at the end of the spline with a hammer and it popped out.... much more then that then it has to be taken too a shop but that is usually on the newer models from what I have been told. The Repair manuals say they all have to be seperated by special tool but mine just came apart.... as everyone says they usually do and laugh at the repair book. If everything is off, tug, pry.... ahh.... beat... chain and pull tension with another car and hit... ? (Never had that problem.) I have only done one set so experience is limited from me. Good luck.

sweet 82, thx for the link... yes.. that's what I mean the Quad lights. Didn't realize they had it either way... so now I know. From the posts sounds like the quad lights are just fine... :cool: Thanks again everyone.

Hey, question. I noticed that my 88 wagon gl, has 4 head lights (2 high-2lows). Much like my sons 84 subaru... I noticed that an 87 wagon on the web site has one set on each side (high and low under same glass.) sealed beams. Was the front of my wagon replaced? (bought used of course) or did 88's come with the 4 head lights up front.. I always thought the front wrap around sealed head lights were better looking.... as I bought 88 sight unseen I kind of expected those style of lights? Not complaining as nice car... but just curious.

no... they were the timing belts, had motor out (Replacing with new 2 me EA-82) in my 88 wagon, Nephew had me pull black covers off, he yanked old ones off and just shoved (wrestled) the new belts over after loosening tentioners (assured proper orientation) set tention back on, used drill to roll motor over several times to assure all is well and put covers back on....and we put motor in. One thing I noticed is they weren't Gates belts, I suspect cheap Japo.. but we were in a hurry and now I know how to get to them. Possibly being not as good quality allowed enough play to slip over?... but that's how he did it.

Sweet Deal! hey, Noob here too. I live a touch East of you and we are few and far between on the dry side of the mountains in Washington. There is a Sube nut in your local.. can't remember his name.. sure he will say Hi though. Welcome and this is a great place to learn! Are you going to Shelton this weekend? Sube gathering.... not sure if I can make it..

Not to beat a dead horse but I noted how most of the, "How to replace timing belts." talks of pulling the Crank Pully off. Why cant a person loosen the tension spring and roll the belts on? Other then plastic cover nothing was removed (except old belt). Just wiggled them on over the edge with a little prying and swearing. *Noob with a wrench in his hand* May this possibly damage the new belts?

I am trying ot get my sisters kid to get a Sube for her kids... she just doesn't realize what they are missing... till then they drive their $20.k Truck... I may forward that page to her.... Looks nice.

If the body is straight, intereior not bad and your looking for a clean ride... sounds promissing. If your looking for something to take out and destroy by chopping the top, 4x4 up and down the hills and scaring the hell out of the live stock...WINNER! Hey, it's $400. Not the national debt. Live on and ENJOY THE RIDE!

My wife made some comment about...oh paying house payment, food... power bill and a bathroom that still needs to be remodeled... so not only no ... but HELL NO! I still have an 88 wagon over in Seattle that still hasn't made it home... I think this is a no brainer from everyones posts... just cash isn't in my hand... and if I upset the wife much more... that's all I may have left for fun. :-\ Later. Also, Thx for all the quick replies and information as no knowledege of Turbos, and I would have called him first thing in the morn.

paint is a bit faded... but body is excellent. (no rust-quick look) I was told on the 87 and olders they have to be taken into the shop and changed... either whole car or each knuckle & axel. $150. each side. Enjoy working on them as all new to me..... hmmmm.... my wife would kill me..... gosh.. $300... digging in pockets.. this is so embarissing... sooo poor... where is my first born...

1987, Subaru Wagon, Manual, 4X4, good tires, good glass, clean interior, fresh tune-up, new breaks, Break mechanic said front C.V ready for replacement, I am guessing 180K miles on engine...... bad... Turbo is blown. Subaru mechanic stopped by and offered the guy $200. The homeowner said it is mine for $300. I know nothing of Turbo's... but could learn if it is that good of a deal. possibly. Your thoughts.

excellent idea... I saw that for the first time this weekend... 15 minutes and they were changed! Couldn't understand what all the fuss was about... but I have never broken a belt and try to figure out which way is up.. LOL...

Ahhhh... I remember when I read the Chiltons books too... seemed like yesterday... oh it was... did my first eng. pull yesterday!! As Fox & others said, do not drain, just roll out of way! So cool to work nxt to someone who knows! As with Power Stearing, etc Do remove radiator... ooops...

My first engine swap: Up at 4 am, drive 4 hrs to Lynnwood WA. from East side of state. Sube, 88 wagon, EA-82 at Nephews who is 20 yrs old. (bought off Craigs list for $140./Engine for $120 out of wrecked wagon) he picked up for me. Nephew Grabs my Chilton and tosses it back into my car. Gets his tool box and in his driveway I help him: Remove hood, takes some bolts off Alt, AC, Fuel Injector, take 3 bolts off each end of the intake manifold and misc clamp, rolls back out of the way... didn't have to dump A.C freon as book said and all electrical/vacuum etc, moved as complete unit on Intake maniforld. (wise, young sube Master he is, yes) Removed motor mount bolts, tranny/eng bolts, Exhauset manifold, Found O DEG on Fly wheel, took cap off rotor and took digital picture. (We took lots of Digital pictures as just in caser) Pulled dist. (Prior to pulling made perm alignment marks with metal pen-orientation relative to Dist base.) Remove eng. (ooops... push eng back on) Take out radiator, (Solderd hole closed) Remove eng. (no eng. hoist).... I will have one nxt time. (darn kids) Pulled fly wheel. Put wrench on new/used $140 engine front and turned, went half way and bound up. arrrrgg..noooooooooooo............ Nephew, dude said it was good! pulled plugs, poured oil into cylenders, and worked back and forth, broke free (been sitting) Electric drill/power turned motor quickly over too assure, seems good. Install fly wheel on new used motor. (Didn't have machined, good enough) Executive decision, $250. for Clutch pack at local parts store, to much, didn't replace as some life left on existing clutch disk. Timing belts, ugly, replaced. Applied Transfer marks to line back up and put on new belts. (Metal marking pen on Cam-shaft Sprocket to eng and assured same positon and replaced belts.) Used drill to turn motor to assure belts seated and all turns free. So far so good. (whew) Install timing belt covers. Put motor mounts onto frame, lower motor and fought trying to start two lower motor mount bolts, will bolt too engine first nxt time.... Put motor back in connected all. Set at 0 deg, and install Dist to original orientation mark. Install battery. Crank, crank, crank, sputter.... hmmmmm.. Pull out Dist, rotate engine 360 deg. back too 0 deg., set dist back in. Crank..fired, but rough, lots of smoke from oil. Crank, running... tweek dist, calms out... ALL SMILES! ROAD TRIP! (no hood on car yet) Getting hot! Shut down!!!!, replace Thermostat... Running normal Temp Engine sounds great... , timing is off but drivable, Fresh gas, fill trany oil, Nephew paints tire rims BRIGHT yellow..... kids these days.... (I was inside, come out too yellow rims!) drive around Lynnwood Sunday in Red 88 sube wagon, bright yellow rims and no hood.!. stereo-yes, 4x4 works-yes, interior-Excellent, All lights & Signals work, bright sunny skies and cruising for chicks in grundgy coverals People avoided us? (don't know why) Sleep. Up, leave car in Seattle as will have delivered to Eastern side by my brother at end of July when he comes for a visit. Drive back home a happy, (sube, nooby), camper. Next hurdle, awaiting delivery. $400 in car so far and learned tons about these cars... now almost time to work on my Brat. (FYI: I have been using my sons comp name: Indrid Cold, as I figure he would be the one mechanicing.... I love it... heck with him.... I will have to come up with my own name...) Sorry so long, but excited as all went well!!!! Happy 4th of July!!