Indrid cold

Hey guys, I am in need of a Auto Darkening weld hood. My Bro. in-law Birthday is approaching and the hood in his shop is a flimsy, half broken, auto darkening, he needs a new one. He does specialty auto builds and regular service. He welds alot of Alum. on the small breather baffle/tanks used on turbo or what ever and welding for engine mods, etc.. all way above me...... Do you have any preferences. I would like to keep it around $150. any suggestions... or favorites out there? update... I thought I remembered a similar post so I did some digging, about 3 pages down, Mountaingoat made reference to his preferences...... any other mfg, models that are liked... ?

West Coast Subaru Show, Annual gathering. Look for older posts. This year, WCSS-14. 14, being 14th year of course is a gathering of Subaru's and the owners seem to follow. (usually in August) somewhere in the Northwest ie, Astoria, Hood River, Stevenson, etc. Date and place to be announced shortly in the "meet and great" section... a post has already formed... and the anticipation swells

wow...... where in WA... looks Eastern WA.ish, Where has that been hiding? You need to take it to the, "West Coast Subaru Show" this summer. (WCSS-14) Location ???? pending. yes.. drool worthy... Green valve stem caps... hahaha

Possibly a, "Electrical Connections 101" post is in order?

There is no, "one position". The variables are too great, thus the timing light. You can adjust the dist. by the sound and feel of the car during acceleration under load... not just revving the engine but move the dist. drive it... feel, listen and adjust a little this way or that a touch more... then back... etc... A pinging engine or sluggish, find the middle. It sounds like you have done this but figure I would throw it in. timing light is the best... look for them at garage sales, test it out on the car to assure if flashes before you hand them money... everyone has a supposedly working timing light that Jim Bob used before he died... 30 years ago. I had 3 of Jim Bob's old timing lights that came out to be duds...no matter how trusting the old lady looks...test it. Also, poor gas millage is an accumalitive thing: Look for vacuum leaks as they kill gas millage, could be tune-up issues: plugs-gap, wires-can last a long time, also look inside dist.cap where rotor can deposit sediment on arc surfaces-clean those, rotor end, make shinny. The usual stuff you probably know.

I use a 3/8" poly supply tube that one would use for a water supply line for a lavatory sink and use it as a Stethoscope... listen at points around the engine. It will help you pin point the various noise between ticks of lifters or a solid knock which could be a crank shaft bearing...

yup.....

I bought a Hatch which has a different paint color as the previous owner said it was WAY MORE EXPENSIVE to replace the glass then the whole hatch door, ... so what ever that is worth and I don't care about miss matched paint... I can't see it from the drivers seat... Things to look for is around 84 & 86 they put a brake light in the glass which attaches to studs bolted through the glass. I believe you have the light in the back window. (same Hatch door approx, 82-86 bolt right in but 86 is wired for a Brake light in glass)... You could probably get an older Hatch, and with double sticky tape on steroids adhere back light to the glass as the older Hatch glass won't have the posts to attach, or find door that matches or replace glass with new or used... Put a search out through your local junk yards for a rear Hatch or glass and check "pull-n-parts" if local for your year also there is a, "wanted" section in this forum that you can post in... probably find one on here. I am sure you have searched the auto glass dealers for a replacement price. I can't imagine it is too hard to do yourself, I think the glass is just bloody expensive unless removed from a parts car. I did my front windshield (Parts car $15.) but don't know how a back window is set in the rear hatch if it is just a rubber seal type of set up or hot sealant like I did the front? ... take a look at yours and go see what you can find for replacement and go from there. Search topic above too, probably info in there. I don't think the rear seal/window would be that difficult and could be a good learning experience, depends on what you find. Good luck..

A gracious reasonable priced offer for a 4 sp. is on the table if one comes up per another board member (local to you). There are a few 4speeds on the parts section if still available so very doable with not much out of pocket cost. I understand your frustration, disappointment and anxiety over cost. Regardless of what you choose we are behind you 100%.... good luck... update... Yes, that is why I took the time to do a warm-fuzzy reply, since edited. You do sound more mature than others your age as to tackle what you do, and your concern showed that. Just tried to toss you something to chew on...

I know nothing of transmissions, other than no forward motion when 4x isn't engaged can't be good. Usually these issues are met with instant trade up's to a 5 speed tranny and happier driver which I did to my Brat. I am not a mechanic, I was helped out alot by this site and got it done. Assure you can swap a 5 speed tranny in your 81 Brat. (1982 on, no problem-I'm just not sure on the 81 year.) If you got the axle done you can do the tranny swap with the help of this site and alittle more $. Tranny usually goes for about $150., drive line needs to be lengthened and misc... it adds up.. I look at it this way: average car payment $300+. for that you can get your Brat running and not make another payment.... for awhile. If you sell it you could get another car that will what..... break down? At 16 I am sure $ is tight... but don't give up that easily... these cars are very forgiving to repair and operating cost (gas), parts and doing your own labor makes for cheap transportation for a kid. At the least, park it, ride a bike and work on it when you have the funds. My Brat sat for almost 2 years till I got it running again. Currently I have an 82 Wagon sitting for over 3 years as I slowly gather parts, tranny and engine sitting in garage, saving for a lift kit, wiring harnes and other items.... it just takes time. Congrats on the axle replacement even if you had help as you are gaining experience and you will require less assistance on the next one, after that you will teach others. You are learning fast young Padawan.

do a "search" above on bearing changes... lots of write ups. don't need bearing puller..... I guess one would work? anywho... I use a long round punch and lets say the inner bearing is bad and axle is removed, just put a punch against the inner race and tap, go to opposite side, tap etc.. etc. maybe more than a tap... sometimes a beat and it will start to scootch out.. to install new bearing after packed with grease (everyone has their own item) I go to a farm supply and get 2 or 3 shaft collars just a bit smaller than the bearing outer diameter and will slide over the axle and about 6 large washers that will slide over the axle but wider than the bearing. (never beat directly on bearing) Beat on the Shaft collars to pound in new bearings and use washers and collars as spacers to suck the new axle in... good luck.

odd.... Never had nor heard of that... loose wires? My radio in 84 Hatch only picks up Spanish speaking till warm.... got to love um.

+ on the distributor replacement.... sounds alot like what my 84 Brat did. The ignition module in the distributor cuts in and out. Cheaper to buy a rebuilt distributor than to just buy a ignition module. I also replaced the coil too as they were both about the same age. I understand the weather concerns as I used to live in SouthEastern Idaho. I always assured winter blankets etc. in bag behind seat.

Appreciate the probable cause and suggested cure. I will also look everything over tomorrow during the day light hours for any other possible issues that may be contributing to this........

Short story: 84 Hatch, The front axel just pushes out by hand force, wiggle, wiggle and pull and out. Measuring where the axle race area: old axel is approx, 1.375" New axel is 1.378" On the bench I can slide the old bearings on the old axel and there be ever so slight a gap, but can't hand slide on new axle so tighter fit.. I like tighter fit. Is the dimensional difference enough to create a phantom wobble in the front as it seems to come and go, take apart, find nothing, put back together and all good for 5 months. Any thoughts? UPDATE: I did the shot gun effect, new axle, new bearings, seals, grease etc. The axle I got is a Cardone rebuilt (another companies logo on box) per the supplier.. I also ordered new cone washer... just in case mine was just wore out... got extra too.. figure they are all 25 + years. So, laid in the snow, got er done and sounding good. I think it was just a combination of cheap parts and cheaper parts going bad.... I will replace cone washer when it comes in from local Subie dealer. thanks again for the input. ........................................ Long story: What I found when jacked up. With the 84 Hatch jacked up I can grab the top/bottom of tire and feel what appears to be slop in the knuckle houseing... after the tire is off i can grab the rotor and experience the same slight slop as I wiggle top to bottom. Axle Nut is tight and still under torque. Left side only, right side there is no play as described.. so I am focusing on the issue being on the left side. A shake this time of the year could have been ice/snow packed uneven on the inner rims but as I took the tires off any ice appeared uniformed in thickness. (yes, laying out in the snow...sucks) Interesting point is this shake is exactly what happened in the summer, took apart, (noticed ease of axel removel) didn't see an issue and put back together and shake was gone, 5 months later it comes back while playing with the subie in the snow...... Yes, the axel on the loose side was a $25, left over special, rebuilt in a box at local parts house that was closing up.... Last summer I got a bad shake at 30 mph, ... figure bearing or axel but there wasn't the usual grind nor clunk.. just a shake started. Jacked up both side and wiggled tire.. the left tire had slop like bearings.. took it apart.. all looked good the only thing unusual is I could push the axel out.. no wood and a smack with a hammer, just a push and plunk.. out... I replaced the inside bearing with a slightly used one I had. Put it back together, no shake at 30 mph and drove another 5 months till today when out in the snow... same thing as it started to shake about 30 mph. Jack up, right side tight, .. left side wiggles, figure axel as no bearing grinding noise but everything looks good. Inspect axel, feels good, tight, no slop, but there is the slight slop of each bearing on the axel... ever so slight but it is there... Take dimensions. Also, 3 years ago when I first got this 84 Hatch I wanted to put fresh axels and bearings /seals in. I noticed the kid that had this car before me took a hammer and for what ever reason (possibly remove hub from front strut?).. beat on top of the knuckle bearing area where the outer bearing was.. He beat so hard it slightly oval-ed the outer rubber seal area so I had to take a drimmel tool after I got the bearing beat out out and remove rolled metal along the outer 3rd of the top of housing in order to put a new bearing in. There appeared to be no damage to the inner area so the bearing should still sit true as the damage was more to the outer hub area. I put a new seal in and it has held fine. Using the shot-gun method of replacing everything, I am hoping, new axle, new bearings, new seals will solve this phantom wobble...

oddly... this scenario never gets boring...

For a true value, an estimate by a professional is needed. As above poster stated: The book value is $600 or there about's. end of story in documented value. ......... My view.. worth nothing but it is free: No pics, as you described, As a reality check and probably more true to your Brats real value: The working man side of me says $3,000 to $4,500 as you show the car out side with rain and leaves laying on it. Put on craigslist, $4,200 to $6k on a show floor or inside a warm clean garage. To the right person with a glass of wine in their hands, +$8k. and they pay for shipping As Edrach said, prior to the sour economy there was a similar Brat in description being sold in Penelton Or., area. They were hoping for $10-12K, last bid was just short of $10K so they didn't sell. Fast forward to now.. it is a bit different for the general populous. $4k most folks would dig into pockets to get, $6k getting serious, $8k+ it better be nice and looking for collector with money and a compulsion... Millage on engine doesn't really matter mechanically, the frame/body would show it in chips and dents so if it looks good, your millage is probably correct. Trim, if the tail gate trim is nice that is a clear plus, as no rust, no dangling wires etc.. Reality check: If you hold out, dig up a buyer and keep the car protected it might happen. I never have seen any of these cars make anyone rich.. it's like the commercial says, "It's a Love thing." If you have a Brat then you have a choice,Sell it or keep it as a second car (weekend eye candy, ) and use another daily driver to beat up. A car which retains its value in low millage and no dents doesn't fit in most 21 year old life styles driving habits. It's value may be best served by someone who can protect it... or keep it and have an incredible experience driving it till she dies.. forgoing any accidents and proper maintenance that will be about 2022-32. What value the Brat does have is easily lost as any car by simple wear and tear and crazy mods that involve sawzalls. As others have posted.. it just depends on finding the buyer... one movie with a Brat as a central prop and those of us with Brats could retire if they go pop-culture... seriously, I could see Obama getting in a Brat and driving it around White House grounds.... seriously.... The only problem with an off the cuff estimate of (?) is its probably to low! The Brats are getting harder and harder to find as they are all being driven to death and anything in the junk yard is crushed the next day. This can and should drive the valuation up but it's only a Brat.. a no nothing car.. nothing special.. more an oddity then any true engineering feat. Every time I park in a large store parking lot I am amazed how my little 84 Brat pre-dates all the other cars and mostly now the age of the drivers.. and that's all right with me as everyone else are just losers. sorry for rattling on but you get the problem of puting a price on Brats. And they are always undervalued by the insurance company's should you find yourself in that situation so a solid valuation is your best defense with proper insurance coverage. Again.. these are just estimates.. guess's.. subjective numbers of a value for a car the "blue book" says is only worth $600. It is worth $600. till someone hands you something different and you don't scratch it. ......... Also did you see the recent news clip about the trucker that won the viper or volkswagon or something... 600 hp and in less the 8 hrs after it was delivered he wrecked it... so guess what just happened to the value of that new, high priced car... *splat..,

passenger side, look up at the grab strap cover over head, there is a plastic cover over the screw. I want that little plastic cap that covers the screw that holds strap on..... It is probably wrong color but I can deal with that.... somehow... grab that ... and send me a text... if I had time and $ I would take all I could that isn't cracked.. but that is kind of a pain to sell but you could make some $ with that....

You have to get it out in the yuck... that's where it really shines... but... weak tires means poorer performance... last winter I had my summer tires on and got into freezing rain/snow and did a 360 on an onramp to bridge.. with daughter... meekly went home, put on studs and the big "S" on my chest and back out for fun..... Look on Craigs list for snow tires/studs.. I caught two sets of 4 for about $25 a tire on rims... so $200 put studs on both my Subies... mmmmmm... feel the love...

It usually fails... Alt or Battery first, seems one takes the other out, then since your broke anyways something else usually jumps in like the ignition module.. or ? 92 Loyal, which motor is that.. EJ or EA ? If it's EA then check the usual, rotor screw loose and not turning, no spark, fuel? fuse? EJ., no idea... YOu wanted ideas... that's all I got...

You can install a Weber carb on it.. never done this swtch yet so not allowed by the site police to say much about it but sure others will pipe in ... you can also look above on task bar and look at the "Search" area and type subject and go from there... The front crank shaft pulley bolt is righty tightey, lefty loosey....

I have repaired two upper supports as you described (not pressure boundry seams-although have done so in emergency)... I used a typical propane torch for soldering copper, solder (copper pipe solder or what ever type I had around...) and lots of flux. This is all low temp soft solder, not brazing/accetylene. Rough up mateing surfaces.. I use a 1/2" copper fitting wire brush dipped into the flux, warm area with torch and use wire brush, flux and heat to clean surface to remove paint or grease, wipe, apply lots of flux, align parts, give it the heat and add solder. Assure not to over heat area and melt solder out of joints in tank... this is a quick, heat the bracket/area get the solder on it and cool.

congrats on your new wagon and official first fix-bonding experience.. more to come and you will learn alot. I had an 88 wagon and they are alot of fun.... and yours looks sharp. I love these for kids cars (had my son in one for a year or so)... no major power, traction and it teaches you defensive driving and you can work on them with out doing any major damage and parts are somewhat cheap!!! Just a suggestion, if getting tow's home are diffecult and you plan alot of road trips etc.. I am sold on the AAA-extended tow card.. that way your dad doesn't have to come running should it have a hick-up... but I have gone years on my roo's with not a problem...

or the heater core has a leak so they abandoned it in place.. If you have a way to do a low pressure 10 psi air pressure check of the core, now might be the time.

If you take a tennis ball and put a hole in it.... Always stash a key under frame boss...