Indrid cold

also the books and old subaru manual will say to check head bolt torque by loosening head bolts a bit and re-torque etc... please don't do that... don't mess with the head bolts. How fun to be 16, have a Brat and want to learn...

soapy water squirted all over the area makes for a great leak finder... no good with vacuum leaks though. I am leaning towards the tube connection behind heat shield next to hole... soap it down......

Welcome..... Love the "free" and love the older roo's. I've got multiple '84 roo's, each with 200,000+ miles plus.... not questioning need for rings nor your ability to diagnose but that usually is the last thing they need..... these are tough little motors. Of course I just ignor that one low head pressure and the bloody things just keep running! Post questions in the "older Generation Subaru sections" with pics...

Wow... great price... That is some cheap bonding time with the Subaru...

Here is a quick how I did it... no.. not mechanic.... could get shot impersenating one... but got it done. You want to remove the strut with spring on it.. do not remove the center bolt that keeps it all together, remove the two or three top strut mounting bolts and remove from knuckle below. Once on floor attach compression tool on spring and when spring is properly compressed the tension is off center nut, remove it. Not sure if it matters but you will see color paint (under dirt) on front of springs... some say that is just a factory coding method.. no idea... they came out that position... I put them back as I found it. I believe on your 86, it has 3 bolts on the upper top strut mounting bolts... other wise like my 84 Brat (2 bolts) the top section can be turned 180 out and put in wrong for car type... I recommend do one side... then do the other. Use penetrating oil on 2 lower bolts on steering knuckle and remove bolts. After removing bolts from lower knuckle use a spreader to open it up to wiggle (channel locks help to twist back and forth) strut out. Regarding what else I had to undo, on my 84 Brat all I had to do was remove the single bolt on the lower control arm (14mm) and that gave me enough play to pull down and yank assembly out. I removed the brake line from the caliper (and emergency cable) rather than cut clip retainer as I didn't know any better ... and I had a helper to help bleed... (sounds simpler to cut metal loop, bend, remove hose and bend back to use clip) Compress spring, remove top center nut, remove strut, install strut and top parts and release spring to put tension on top nut. Grease the inside knuckle area and end of the strut when putting new in... you may have to put floor jack under bottom ball joint nut, jack up till studs are in the holes and just lifting car and pound down with rubber mallet from above to get it into the socket (Note bolt hole to front of car.) On mine I had to spread opening (wedge) jack up and beat down hard... real hard with mallet..... from above on center to force it the last 1/2" to get bolt in. What ever you do... when you have spring compressed and putting it back together using the original "upper spring seat" assure it is not upside down... other wise after you install it and realize.... you get to take it all out and do it again... just watch how it comes apart.. it's simple, lower plate or (seat) and upper plate (seat) should capture the spring in between...my brother in law who is a mechanic laughed his rump roast off... torque bolts, put tire on, install 14mm bolt (if removed) but don't tighten till weight is back on car, lower car, NOW slide under and tighten bolt on lower control arm. Hope any of this helps... wasn't to bad but I used Bro/inlaws lift which was so much easier. good luck..

Hey Alien.... Welcome to USMB. Great place for info etc.... Did you try the Seafoam... also when the mechanic did the timing belts did he replace the tensioner pullys etc..??? I am sure he checked it all out...

I loved my 88 dl... fun wagons.... Don't give up.. there are two main sites to gather Subie parts... sorry can't remember web address... visit the "Search" site above or maybe someone will fill in the blanks.. see!, look below, Turbone has the info you need. You will love this site... Welcome, you found the right place... Suggestion is you need to learn to bond with your wagon, that is the only way to make these older cars financial viable unless you have money to toss... explain to your wife you need to "feel the Love" and that the roo is just a little sick right now... it will run again...

Been several years since I did this so can't remember exact details but you will get the idea: With heads torqued (no-valve covers nor exhaust pipes connected), intake manifold installed (no alt, etc so you can see engine) fill with water and perform a pressure test 10 psi on block/coolant side and perform a close visual inspection of heads, exhaust, intake etc... That is the only way I found my leak, pin hole in head between exhaust and coolant side. I burped as much air out through upper by pass hose on air intake to fill engine, use air compressor with gauge & isolation valve and used light and waited. My thought was if it is anywhere in the heads it would show itself out the exhaust pipe or intake would fill piston etc... luckly mine was easy to find... My .02 cents and can post this because I HAVE DONE THIS BEFORE and it worked........*for me. good luck. *Results may vary.

As far as I know there is another guy going but he will already be in Vancouver on Thursday. Not sure what time I am leaving.... depends on if wife goes... but will do usuall drive down hwy-14. (Washington side) Girl with L. Recommend gassing up in Tri-citties before hwy-14. I enjoy that drive, it isn't bad but is two laner with great views and gas isn't for 110 miles.

Love these little cars for the road trips.... glad to hear the roo got you home before you had trouble... any and all cars can and will do that to you.. just die for who knows what reason?? I would look at ignition module in ditsy... If everything else checks out change the distributor (cheaper to buy re-built ditsy then new module), if it still didn't start then keep that one under the seat as a spare. I just got back Sat. after doing about a 400 loop up to the mountains for some backpacking... 4 years ago I set my 84 Brat up with a 5-sp, new fuel pump, water pump, ditsy and coil with a spare Ditsy in a box in back with basic tools and tow strap... and I take this rig anywhere and everywhere and leave my new cars in the driveway. I trust it this much because I can trouble shoot and fix most issues thanks to others helping me learn how the roo's tick. One thing that I would suggest is a AAA extended tow card, about $90 a year for a 200 mile tow range. Not sure the exact details (3-tows max I believe) but I pack mine as most my cars are ... old... er... and just nice to have and used in behalf of others broke down along the road, plus I have no one else to call to come and get me... and why bother someone else when AAA is 24/7. Coming home I got passed by a WRX, he slowed down, gave a wave and off he went... made my day. Good luck..

Not sure what direction you are going (South West) or drop due South through Tri-Cities and easy run along Hwy-14 through Columbia Gorge on the Washington Side which is the usual for me from here. Not sure if any from the Dry-Cities will also be going... not a peep from anyone yet.

Duct tape over the resevoir cover is not a problem as long as it can vent. After I lost my cap and to keep fluid from splashing out I have used a zip lock bag pulled over the top, zip tie to keep it on and small hole in top of bag for venting .. so not the issue. The fact that the resevoir is filling... that is an issue. Your radiator cap is new but is the surface where the seal is made clean and smooth enough to form a seal. Try clening that with a green scotch bright pad. It sounds like as your system comes up to temp it is leaking past... possibly off brand radiator ment for different cap?.. possibly it is plugged radiator and over pressurizing ...... possibly a small split in that seating area allowing fluid to pass. The cap is there to seal and build pressure and release if over pressureizes.... and it should not be filling your resevoir everytime you run your engine. Just some ideas... keep us posted.

Congrats on your Brat. Part of the learning curve is to have stuff like this pop up till you learn how they tick.... agree with above, fuel filter (back by fuel pump and under hood), timing, plugs, wires, check vacuum lines, dump some Sea Foam into it etc... could be carb issues but lets assure first.. .both my 84's are running great on original carbs so don't jump to weber unless it's part of your plan... put up a pic or two.... and welcome.

very nice.... Timing belts? any history on when they were replaced? Made my first visit to that area last year... beautiful country. Noticed the 116 deg. temp their today.... toasty...

so you must have some hungry Gremlins at night..... not much left of that rig and remind me never to park in your driveway. Guess on movie, "A fish called Wanda" .... just a guess....

.... same here... will try for next year.... had issues on my end. See everone at WCSS at Stevenson, WA.

I liked your pics and great to see you out there enjoying the roo. Hope it's been good to you thus far... looks in great shape.

Since your digging out the camping gear anyway and your in the neighborhood you have to go check out Panther Creek Falls! If your group wants to meet up a day early (Thurs night) Panther Creek campground is about 13 miles from Stevenson so a short hop into the hills to a great camping place. I did this last time and it's a great campground located along side Panther Creek which is part of the Pacific Crest Trail (so if you see hikers along the road to the Bridge of the Gods that crosses the Columbia they are probably doing the P.C.T. A must see for all is Panther Creek Falls, (paved road) The falls is located 4 miles past the campground and well worth the drive to see. The road is very snakey with green canopy and ferns encroching on the paved narrow forest road. At the falls, there is a pull out/turn around for plenty of Subaru's (nice subaru group photo shot) and a short 100 yard hike down to view point. The drive from Stevenson to the Falls is like 20 minutes tops.. would be a great caravan run, make a great slow drive (very curvey) and at the end lies one of the top ranked falls in the area. So if your looking for a pre-night place to camp or a place to take Subie and co-pilot for a little exploring than this may be the place. Check it out: Camp Ground: http://www.fs.fed.us/gpnf/recreation/campgrounds/sites/panther-creek.shtml From Highway 14 take Wind River Road north through Carson 6 miles to Forest Road 65. Forest Road 65 4 miles to campground. Falls: (the pics don't capture it very well, it's a a must see kind of thing.) http://www.fs.fed.us/gpnf/recreation/waterfalls/panther.shtml Panther CreekLocation:Wind River ValleyCoordinates:From Wind River Highway 30 to Forest Road 65. Gravel parking area at mile 7.5. Trail 50 yards down road on other side of road.Trail Information:Easy, 200 yard trail down to viewing deck. Description:Approximately a 65-foot drop falls.

Welcome Rollerball, Welcome to the club... you will be able to find parts here on the site (look in parts wanted section.) So far I havn't heard anything that sounds spooky. If it runs, great... if not $50. for car, $45. for title transfer or what ever?? Most people spend $100 a month on junk food etc.. you can turn this right around and sell it.... I live in Kennewick.

Hey Twitch.. yea, that's what I was talking about! Sorry if it doesn't hit the purist mark but better than melting a wiring harness.

Your story about your special little fire was a treat! I love it when I hear about someone screwing up worse than what I could have ever accomplished! Just giving you a bad time... wow, talking about a cat with 9 lives! I saw a great idea from last years subaru show where a member used a new style fuse with jumper wires from the fuse to where the fusible link plugged in. The new fuse was kind of dangling outside of the fuse box and they drilled two holes for the wire to go into the box but at least the line was fuse protected... anywho... I enjoyed your post and hope you get it all working again.

I have never camped at Lake Wenatchee, hear it is good spot but seems always full....openings are hit and miss unless you have reservations...so yea.. interested if it can be locked down or know someone that can confirm a spot.. Leavenworth is a great spot. Last year durring WCSS took Brat and wife followed by Dave (i think) from AZ or ? into Leavenworth for dinner and taking in some of the atmosphere... alot of looks and questions about my Brat and the usuall... "I havn't seen one of those for years!...where are the back seats?" Camping is good if you can get in the upper camp-grounds up Iciccle Rd (any campground above 8 mile is good) that would be a great spot if someone could get in and snag two spots... You can squeeze alot of Subies in a small space! Center of state and love the brautworst at the sausage barn in town with great hiking area around camp-grounds! (end of Icicel rd.) ... but no off road in that area, all protected from that kind of activity. My calander may be full this year.... but never know... if someone gets any dates set, place etc...

MilesFox has the correct answer below.....

Your stock is rising number 2! That is very nice... seen very few in that condition! Just behind the drivers seat I can see back into the bed.. looks like a touch of rust in a usual Brat place. Match paint code and how to treat rust see "search" link. You are blessed to have such an Uncle.