Indrid cold

General Disorder confirmed what I was thinking.... that with out the proper dash marks where you would align motor as seen through the view port to install timing belts then how do you set timing belts? and timing would be? But lets say the timing belts were never adjusted... so they should still be in time! Right? so the only thing that should be out is the timing itself and if the distributor was never changed then possibly it could fire as long as nothing was changed...Right? So if nothing was messed with than it could fire... so possibly you are using the wrong coil, or plug wires crossed or now you have to twist the distributor verious degrees to find where it will start... but you open a can of worms should you want to change belts or use a timing light.... you can time by feeling power and listening to the engine but how would you determine the exact point on the flywheel to set the timing belts by... hmmmm..... just tossing out ideas here...

Possibly what General Disorder is driving at is the flywheel your using.. the timing marks may be no good to you? (he is all wise on this stuff so I am only guessing.) Here is some basic info from chiltins. Cylinder location on the engine: 3 4 1 2 .X X= fan, .................................. Distributor roation (counter Clockwise) on Over Head Cam engine: 1-3-2-4 when facing engine. 3 .1 .0 2 .4 The zero represents the coil wire to the center of the distributor and and the number one plug wire is the back right on the distributor. the distributor plug wire location as seen in chilton book. Although I don't believe it matters which one is the #1 post on the distributor as long as the sequence is, 1-3-2-4 feeding the cylinder plug. When I had my EA-82 I just made it look like the layout in the book as described. Find the compression stroke on cylinder #1, pull the plugs, crank by hand (socket on end of front crank nut) with thumb over cylinder hole and assure you get the compression stroke.. not exhaust and on the compression stroke bring that to top dead center, look at the rotor under the distributor cap to see distributor cap post and see which one rotor is pointed at. Call that number one distributor and run that wire to number one plug. Also now look at the flywheel through the access hole and see if your igniton timing marks align... If you had taken the timing belts off then they may have been put on wrong by you or previous owner etc.. No fire with out of sequenced belts. Look at the front cam pulleys, (it has been awhile for me) but there should be a hole on the front edge, rotate cam till it points up, the other cam hole should be pointed down and on the fly wheel there should be 3-dashes and the center dash should align to the ponter on the bellhouseing at the access hole. This is possibly why General Disorder is questioning flywheel.. as different flywheel could make your marks meaning less.. but not sure on this. I know this is all rather basic info and you probably know alot of this but sometimes it helps just to stand back, take a break and clear your mind before you dive back in. Hope any of this is helpfull.

Welcome, I had a red, 88-DL, some put them down for only being a push button with out the low but I had so much fun with mine! Suspect you will do the same. $400 sounds good but I am sure there will be a couple... oh.. yea forgot about that's...but those things will get you to aquaint yourself with the new roo, at $400 you got room to fix any rut-roes and make it a great runner. don't be in such a hurry to EJ... that's what I had planned to do but I live around alot of flat area so no need for up-hill power so I left it alone although I do have an 82 wagon wanting an EJ... soon? Welcome and enjoyed your post, it's a great bit of history and yes, understand the temptation of taking it for a spin. also, I gave my 88-DL to a family relation, year later it was totalled and the insurane gave him $1,100 for the car. I paid $160. for the car and $140. for a engine. so your price sounds good for being in one piece.

I'm no engine expert by any means... wobble can't be a good thing?

My son's 84 Brat does the same thing. I installed new strut 3 to 4 years ago and has made this clunking noise after that, may have done that before but can't remember.... no idea. Some day I may take it apart but I have no idea... Spring in upside down? not set in retainer? ?? I looked at all the possibilities and have yet to put my finger on the issue???? If you ever figure you it out please let us know.

mmmmmm..... free.... Very nice wagon.

I think Miles Fox is on to the problem... assure which joint is leaking, the head gasket or the next seal out which would be the RTV seal/cam tower & oil passage "O"-ring. Per your post and # of them sounds like you know exactly what you are talking about. If it is the head-gasket (I have replaced one do to this but it was 180,000+ miles) and not freshly resealed. If it is newly resealed with new head gaskets then possibly an issue at the joint location... sucks.. but you may not have a choice here.... double, double check...

Yea... you did something, bumped or what ever... You have the SPFI (single point fuel injection) which is very dependable. sounds like you know mechaniching stuff so sorry to say on this end we have no magic crystal to tell us what is up... do the usual and re-trace what you did. Keep us posted and no Pics...

Sorry not offroad pics... but so unreal to have so much snow here this time of year. 84 Hatch and Brat studded up while the Ford Taurus & Focus slumber till the roads dry out. Hoping to join the lifted team by next winter... slowly collecting parts.

These Subies do give us a bit of an "S" on our chest... so there I was... speeding... yes.. (I admit it) and came up to a main bridge that passes over the Columbia river, snow and ice on road (yet to put on my studded tires) and in 4-High, I did a 360 infront of everyone... didn't hit a car or wall but I knew what the other drivers where thinking.... I put my tail between my legs and cautiously went home and put my studs on... Now..... hahahahahah... the "S" is back on my chest and loving the roo. But.... I am being more responsible and driving safely... highly recommended. But yes... these little rigs so outperform what is out there even before the studded tires etc... enjoy the snow!

Nice wagon... I love those years. Mine was an 88 SPFI (Single point fuel injection-throttle body) but will try and throw some info your way. First, I would do a compression check on the engine. Disconnect battery, wedge open carberator and do a pressure check on each head. Head gaskets aren't that bad to do.. just a bit time consuming. Your capped off lines to a heater core... yea.. sounds like a bad heater core and that would suck. Leak behind plastic.. possibly water pump, (can't remember if there is a front freeze seal under belt covers) or leaking down from above. Look around the carberator there is a 3/8" line on each side of the carb. sometimes those will split and dump coolant on top of engine and it will work it's way down etc.. also, I had a leak I couldn't find so I took a radiator cap and soldered a 1/4" copper line to the top and put it on the radiator, then I fed 10 psi air to the coolant system that way engine wasn't hot. During the pressure check I could touch, snoop and listen for the leak till I found the leak. You could make a connection at the capped heater core feed line and do the same thing, find a reliable air source that you can assure to control and an accurate pressure gauge... believe the radiator caps relieve at 16 psi so wouldn't go above that. Your funny electrical issue.. a bad battery does funny things to the roo's, also a failed resistor in the alternator... sounds like either one of them... The dieing thing could be a combination of sitting for years, bad gas, timing etc.. so don't worry on that yet. If your oil pump wasn't working then your engine would be making lots of ticking noises etc... There are others on the site with alot more experience then myself but saw you post so hoping some of this helps but the big thing to remember is and I have made this comment in the past is your on the learning curve side.. takes longer, seems to cost more but once you get past that then it becomes easier and these rigs become funner! So far it just sounds like it has been mistreated a bit... if there is a bad motor or what ever that is the way it goes sometimes. You put money in and hope for the best.... so far I wouldn't undo anything I have learned or spent on my roo's. good luck..

that should have worked... possibly the wood is too soft so not getting the right transfer of energy/push to drive the bearing in... I went to a Ranch & home type store and bought shaft collars.. (just a bit smaller on the o.d. with I.D. large enough to allow axel to pass through so I can also use them for pulling in the axle.) http://www.ruland.com/a_articles_getting_a_hold.asp At a Ranch and Home type store they will be the cheaper style which .. hey.. cheap, works better because your just going to use them as a beater and not clamp them on. With shaft collars or shaft keepers what ever they are called, I pound on those (steel) as it directs the shock to the outer ring... but I also use them as a spacer with large washers as I use them again to suck the axle through the bearings using the castle nut, collars and large washers. Usually just like you are doing... get them started and pound away.. Understand your frustration... your first time with these and they will screw with you in every way they can... (been there and feel your pain.) curious of the grinding noise in your original post.. now that the bearings are out.. how did they look/feel? Metal chunks in your grease etc?? In case there was any confusion.... shaft collars work well because they put the energy into the outer ring/race and NOT on the center nor on the bearings, they are cheap and readily available (better than grinding down an old bearing) , better than wood, or punching with a round steel punch, so in review; readly available at most Farm product stores, cheap, quick & effective.

High probability it is the bearings.... but usually I have found fragments, broken pieces etc...in the grease. But the bearings arn't the only moving thing, the axel stubs through the knuckle riding on the bearings and into the Hub where the splines mesh and drives the wheel... if the splines are worn the axle will spin/grind in the hub...although I have never persoanly seen it I could only imagine that it should be evident by looking at the splines on the inside of the hub. As for the bearings... it is a do it yourself project. Plan on it taking twice as long as you would think, but the second time it goes so much quicker and the third your a Jedi.

ahhhh....! External reg... G.D., appreciate the correction and info.

agree.. probably alt or battery... a bad battery makes these roos do funny things and both are easily tested.

Congrats on that older roo, looks like it is a keeper. Doesn't seem to be too abused but like most them this age they seem to get neglected. You got the right idea about doing it yourself and making a great form of cheap transportation... looks to be needing some minor attention to open/not connected hose openings, also the heat flex hose from the air filter down to the exhaust connection to help warm the incoming air (colder weather is coming) also it looks like the idle/air mix pin has been removed... if that is so then someone messed with the air/fuel mix and that should possibly be checked for right setting... General Disorder is the guy who can help you if that is the case. Both of my EA-81'S are still running original carbs... mainly because no one has messed with them and when I did it was by a write up by G.D. and ran even better after some emission items were removed which I can get away with on the East side of the state (no emission testing). Possibly fix some of those vent openings, assure carb setting and maybe it will get you by so you can put some of that $ into a new front Windshield as that appears to be needing some attention. Just as a heads up and you probably know this but there are two hoses that feed coolant on each side of the carb...as is the one on top of the water pump, those are usually overlooked and hiding usually forgotten and in bad shape... again, congrats on the car.

what a wounderful, open letter that made my life feel not so horrible.... It's crazy how we fall.... When I bought my first Subie I had no idea how to work on a Jap car or what a flat-4 was... ???? but I dove in and bought it anyway... my wife told me when I drove mine home with no idea how it even worked... she said, "Enjoy the ride." (no reference to how far the ride was....) 6 years later... the ride is fine! What a great place for you to land! Lots of parts and pieces out west.. lots of advice, your in a learning curve & will be frustrating, regardless, enjoy the ride and do keep us posted. (AAA comes in handy till you get them figured out.)

Welcome... it's great to lurk... can be funner to join! location: Nepa ???? Old school, new subies? Gays in the Military... your thoughts? Quote from Billy Crystal in "City Slickers." we are not...not that friendly here. Sorry, bad attempt at some early morning humor... Welcome...

.....because when I first got the new module I had spark. Then I hooked it up and no spark............. Not sure what you meant by this statement... but if you changed your module and then no spark you may now be dealing with two problems... one.. your original no spark and excellent reply by "hatchsub's" recommendation and now the second of changing the module and no spark. If you pulled the module off and put a new on then can't think of any problem there.... if you lossened the small bolts that hold the horseshoe magnet under the module this could have changed the air gap between the star rotor and the air gap on each side... I have never messed with these and not sure if having that move a few thousands could create a problem but thought I would mention it as something to check. and yup.. EA-81 are very simple, a new coil and module is the usuall cure... good luck

No reason you couldn't assure all nuts and bolts got tightened back up.. probably did but.. I replaced my struts and my "clunk" happens on drivers side when I turn hard left or right.. darndest thing. I have looked and looked and havn't figured out what the issue is... It has been that way for 2 years and keep trying to find the time and tear it down and do it again... but I have no idea why they do that. How I planed on fixing mine: I picked up from same year rig, shock assembly (spring/strut/lower knuckle) will tear down and even note spring position as there is paint on the front of the spring-3 dots.. so not sure if that makes a difference (not a front end guy) but I will just have to re-do it and possibly get that clunk gone. But... in the last 3 months it just kind of went away.. not sure if that is good or bad, possibly time for another close inspection. as for the shuddering.. if your putting power/load on the engine, clutch then you have to determine is it from that area or possibly a bad/out of balance wheel or? sounds like the clutch is jumping? A Cv/axel? that would usually come with the normal clicking noise...but possibly under load it has a wobbel in it? Possibly find another local roo enthusiest and they might have some ideas. I hate to see posts not answered but I hate to answer wrong so just tossing out thoughts... Maybe someone who really knows can jump in here and help you out.

+1 for the swap & Bratsrus1 for simplifing the process,.... tis sweet.

Drivers side seat belt won't retract in 84 Hatch. Been 2+ years of bliss with almost zero Brat or Hatch issues. I am car gnome free.. for now.

Nice collection.. no idea on the diff.. I was fortunate durring WCSS-12 to attend the impormpt midnight schooling from RattyAustin on axle re-building! (I held flashlight & wife took pics) as the crowd gatherd around.