Step-a-toe

it is a Spider because it is the ER27

the safest method I have for oil pump removal is to split the cases

if it happens again .... when priming rebuilds, I do it from where the filter spins on. Not the centre hole, the other one, I shove clear pvc hose in it and a funnel. Pour oil down until it stops. It reduces chance of an air lock that I have had before.

a fella in the UK was producing solid GRP "copies" that would do the job and need some sort of finish of your choice to make look closer to original than nothing

The problem in the past was the CD players where mostly (with one exception I saw) were too deep to install in the console. To get around this thicker face plates extended the unit forward towards gear shifting knuckles, or cut out the air vent ducting behind and put the rear of the player into the air (and dust) stream. These days it is mech less as my audiophile fiend calls them - radio without CD player, but with USB / BT and plug in input aux. I have a three year old Pioneer mechless I installed that would do most people. What has improved it 200% was to plug into the aux jack , a digital DAB radio by Richter DR10 I think it is, the size of a box of matches. It is rechargeable, has a speaker and headphones. So I run it just on the passenger floor, head phone socket has an extension ala antennae cord run up and over the rear view mirror and down into aux socket -awesome

if you ground the wire that you think should go to the simple switch, IGN on, engine off, you should get a red oil light come on the dash

I agree with Bennie, it may have been a known system that was very adaptable and reliable in the day it happened. I think the GM Holden Camira system was using a system called MEMCAL and being GM likely had US or Euro source. I think the MEMCAL could be accessed on a computer and reprogrammed. The Camaro stuff might be similar

down under we can be pretty sure that the brand is not the manufacturer unless the name on the package is also stamped into the product and there is often no telling where item is made until you have ordered and received item and unwrapped. Lately, I have been getting stuff from Rock that is not dusty old stock in faded or rotting packaging but newly packaged, made in China - and I am not sure, I don't think I find out country of origin until I have confirmed the order - or maybe not until received. Some of the Chinese stuff is in well known brands to Rock customers too. I am running a Chinese made water pump on EA82 - certainly better than the one that came out I got an economy level timing belt kit for EA82 that came as made in Korea. The belts were stamped made in usa, None of the bearings in the other items were brothers and sisters. I think two were made in Korea, and recall one bearing was made in Japan.

do your models with oil pressure gauge also have oil pressure warning light? I have seen someone say they won't work together, but I have that on EA82, and seen factory diagrams of both oil gauge and oil sender connected at different points on oil pump. My after market gauge sender failed, and I don't miss it scaring me saying low oil pressure. The oil pressure light will still light up just after an oil change, then go out. Oil light may be a late notifier of something amiss, but at least it still works

You, of all people should have known better to check and or swap/replace while doing a comp test before even posting ! But, this forum is a good thinking out loud space

never had problems with any of their brands on these sort of items, yet they are not always the cheapest despite what people say. Their listings can also have some bum steers and you sometimes really need to fully research each part right back to the main supplier. I got caught recently with a tricky item listing and the further I went into the return of it, it got worse, so, effing ouch ! If you end up ordering, don't forget to use a discount code in their order page field "how did you hear about us" I found all you need to do is google search a currrent discount code. I find these on forums such as the Ranger forum easily (if you don't have one of your own. Since my experience, I am only recommending their discount code

The part in the pic above has a bracket that does brake line for left and right

agreed, something is happening. I still daily my 89 Brumby with EA82 drivetrain, parks next to the 87.5 Vortex. Am working on helping a Euro out with some EA81 heads. He was quoted 800 euro for a pair of take them as you get them used heads !!

that number is a fits both left and right part. I think earlier numbers were handed. It might be six years since i ordered these from my local dealer. I would not take $1500 for the pair, now that they are like gold

721032064 the ones you are talking about GD ?

all I used to convert was the EA82 front strut complete with the coil spring and the EA82 strut top mount. if you observe the jelly bean shape washers atop your strut towers - I made some more to loose fit on top of the new holes made to take the three stud EA82 mounts. I used an old three stud mount that had a missing or broken stud, removed two and used the remaining stud to bolt up to the front hole of the 2 hole strut tower - from under neath I think, in order to line up the new holes by using removed stud holes as the guide. I retained EA81 knuckles, CV shafts and brakes. I think I used L Series brake hoses as well. Little work around their retainers due to me not working out that whoever fitted the new Sachs? to my turbo EA82 sedan, had fitted left to right, and right to left despite idiot proof diagram fitment stickers !

EA82 front CV shafts are about 40mm longer than EA81 for starters. Top hats - EA82 use a bearing that has larger ID than that of the bush in EA81 top hats -

with front struts, use 1984. If you use earlier years, they ran inserts or cartridges fitted into the main assembly of a strut. I looked on Pedders site and it was not a good look. Some items at least gave a heads up that the deletion of said part was pending. Just when these things are going up in demand and new owners prepared to spend on them !!

the writing is on the wall for this era... GD is right, in some respects

a bit like todays Mustang. Very noticably sounds like a smaller buzz box driving by and smarty pants in the world used to quote " only milk and soft drink should come in 2 litre"

it may be as useful as Aussies looking up US based parts providers, to you. But, have a look at our retailer of suspension stuff Pedders, they may do a listing, and may just ship to the US Use 1984 as a search year often helps disregard GEN3 EA82 (some markets still EA71) L Series 1985 to 1994 items that generally won't fit

thanks for returning to the post ! What engine capacity is that model Camaro ? I would guess some V8 ? and some genius has it working fine on an 1800 cc ?

i like the mud/moisture in trailer socket theory. I also seen if the filament has broken at one end, fallen across the other in a dual filament bulb you get all sorts of crazy stuff. I also found after my own fiddling with radio and other things, similar weird problems. I fixed it only by installing those blue diodes you sometimes find in the wiring looms. Used about five or six in total before fixed.

Subaru dealer ? I used to go in and ask for them to be ordered in - no worries at all. Still sitting on a set to go in my uncle's ute. If it helps, it takes a little work, but I fitted up the three stud L Series EA82 strut tops and used some emery paper to remove 0.25mm all around the bottom of the strut to use EA82 4WD struts out of my RXA. I also once bought little used cartridges / inserts to find out I could not install them in my 84 model and one was shot. Another white elephant I have bought off fellow enthusiasts. They went in the bin.

I use impact bits on these babies as the bits I have are 8mm hex and that fits nicely in an 8mm long ring spanner that gives a lot of control to undo as you lean into the task. No gasket to be found between the two from memory yet it is worth getting in there to clean and inspect