Step-a-toe

I met a German hand model who drove from our west coast to east coast in a Mitsu van that kept pulling left after left turns or bends. Shredded the tyre in 4,000 km. It was the left ball joint taper bit that nearly got up and walked out of the workshop on its own, taking a left as it went. Top mounts in EA81 are bushes that can seize up. EA82 use a bearing, yet to find one of them frozen

Vacuum leak to the inlet manifold environment is not going to make it run hotter unless an air leak is leaning mixtures beyond ecu control. Have a look at the throttle body, there is two additional idle air bypass circuits that allow air to bypass the main throttle plate. I think your passenger side ( I like to express as turbo side ) of TB is a flat screw head, flat blade slot type. Not supposed to adjust it. Dizzy side has a solenoid controlled air bypass and sealing rubbers n stuff you can't buy no more. Ideal not to touch this either but no harm hitting both regions with spray lube or leak a little butane to see if idle increases due to air fuel enrichment. Anyone with a parts manual may be able to help see if these had auto and manual throttle bodies to give different characteristics for auto copping load change from N, P to D or R

and the parts catalogue !! That I would love to grab

I have them out and ready for postage down here in Australia.They are the aluminium ones with ferrous tips pressed on, so most likely solid lifter. We only imported hydraulic lifters engines as used from Japan and from memory they were mild steel tube How many do you want? I could weigh up and get freight quote to your zip and town or city by name

Hoard the bits like the rest of us. This way you ensure you won't need them. Disposal will jjinx you

MinFirst carby as well? You sort of don't see fuel coming out of the Jets - especially when it is not running. A running well engine you can hear a healthy carby but you have fine idle circuits to be runni g on before main jets come in or power valve and plunger. You can try manually working throttle in quick manner to see if accelerator pump circuit works and dumps a spray against venturis. A carb cleaner both inside and out has benefits. Then there is the trick to mark what HT lead is which, swap two plug leads between themselves, all setting up for a carby backfire which might set fire to your car, shed, home and neighbourhood so take steps to prevent disaster. Idea of a carb backfire is to use the 150 odd psi compression to blow through air and fuel jets, bleeds and orifices ....has fixed for some

At least he has a sample to take to a cable maker if they exist any more

These washers with bonded rubber insulators can look pretty ugly by now. I found an update repair option a few years back on 99 Impreza front suspension. Lower control arm, rear bushing location. Just the rubber, figuring we can glue to original washer. Probably about 4 mm larger diameter that gets swallowed up pretty easily. The first pic is actually original unit overlaid on the Impreza insulator, you might just imagine you can see this looks like a shadow They look to be a better quality or more robust rubber ring. Thought worth sharing with pictures here. If it went to Facebook it likely just be seen, forgotten, never to be found again

Pull the passenger front seat to see if anything else is hidden. I think over the models Fuji placed power window control boxes under seats, maybe power mirror units as well, maybe central locking. Not the best place when some of us find selves in deep waters. A mate was following bigger, heavier club members on a drive taking in a river bed. The Brumby started to float !

Thinking you are typically one-eyed like most of us and only thinking forum specific models, then someone mentions other breeds Late 70s and into the eighties here in Australia we built cars with mechanical fuel pumps running off the camshaft, yet we had British stuff like one of the most sweetest sounding 3.0 litre V8 in form of Triumph Stag. From memory they used a working oil pressure switch to power up an electric fuel pump, or maybe that was limited to their 2500 mechanical fuel injected I6 ? Triumph also used a mechanical upside down switch. A dead weight in a switch to disconnect should vehicle end up the wrong way up. GDs suggestion of alternator charging control might explain one wire off the alternator off our MYs

My one finger typing efforts not wasted

Some models did not have such an obvious device. I was sure my RHD AUDM 84 Brumby had one up above brake pedal. When I went looking specifically to reclaim unit from 1 month younger Sportswagon - definitely not one there. Don't know if pump itself had a safety device

I like to think having a monitor for my flapper era Series One turbos knock circuit helps also. Seeing the indash readout reading ~5.0V IGN on,~1.7V normal running and seeing it read up to 4.5V when being driven under boost and hearing ping start and stop - confident things are working as designed. I am thinking if adding in a frequency switch to divert boost pressure to factory setting above about 5000rpm where I reckon pinging seems to start @ 12 psi When the boost light in dash us on, the O2 sensor gets a holiday, has no say in fuelling trim Overboost circuit cuts in at either 9 or 10 psi depending on market. I think this can simply be unplugged or does ecu report unplugged?

Think about it a little. Old style car with carby and choke. Choke pull also ramps up on throttle for more air for faster idle speed to cope with richer mix choke on causes. Fast forward to fuel injected. On cold start up you get a faster idle speed. Need more air for faster speeds. No choke. No choke cable or smother plate, no fast idle acting on throttle plate so EFI uses few other means of adding air This one for cold start only and uses electric thermal control inside to close off extra air at operating temps Another smaller solenoid switch on or off on back of throttle body adds air when air con on to cope with compressor load. If you block off thermostat mounted air bypass FICD Fast idle air control as Subaru call some of these things And have problems cold start, a manual switch to supply power to solenoid on back of throttle body may help. If you demand performance from start up, block off may not work so well for you. Ambient temperature may also restrict how you modify things. I use propane now and use a momentary squirt button if rich propane on first cold crank to get going. In colder months I also use my solenoid manual switch for assisted faster idle drive away You will find the thermo mounted fast idle gets its air after the filter and AFM so ecu knows engine is getting it

Yeah,nah not read of anyone saying damper delete due to new pump causes problems. Did this on carby and turbo EFI with generic pumps sans damper - same concern, no problemo

I had a light bulb moment when I saw what I think was OEM loom supplier photos of it all on a wall of peg board or fine mesh with labels and ties

My local parts manager often say exJapan, two weeks wait. No additional charges.

Yes. It has an electro mechanical air valve, so two aspects to play up. If it does not close off when it should it will keep feeding air bypassing your throttle control

No clamps ex factory so I suppose that is not your problem, but I wonder if it is in the device? Capping off eliminates from your enquiry

Wow, thanks Bennie. I really need to be able to do it for myself with time and patience and probably all over the kitchen table Part of my downfall is doing things spread out on the ground, in the sun, crowching not good for the body. The loom and ecu were pretty crudely removed. My GF8 ecu and loom removal was better but still rough. i need to sit down with one of the ecu and draw things up to file away carefully. Really think uncle's ute is going back to EA82M#2 in the shorter term

I am trying....had no choice but rush to extract bits before body disposal , so not the best intro to EJ sampling, so got a dirty EJ22 gift-wrapped and spaghetti with not a good diagram support Also got an EJ20 and it's AWD 5MT sitting in Brumby, working on gearbox cradle, one piece or two tailshaft lip chewing A space,time, money thing

Idle problems , flat or spider manifold? If flat, the short black hose from thermostat housings FICD get hard, crack possibly leak air in variably. If not looked at this, try temporarily blanking cap on the manifold side. I plug mine up, pull the pressed steel tubes, tap and threaded plug or drill and Welsh plug, never to annoy me again.

My mate from El Salvador uses cooking oil ! Did the job

Someone has been digging deep! Note one poster says coolant for turbo comes off #3 Wrong . Comes off up front below #1 I wonder if anyone ever hooked up a trans cooler as a precooler from head to turbo line? More messing about, bits to undo and fit for engine out times So many EA82T have had blocked coolant pickup at the banjo, blockages in the turbo coolant chamber, rotted out banjo fittings on the turbo besides all the other rotating coolant pipes and hoses. If I have bought either car or engine it has never had non genuine parts, suspect all original from factory, or someone's bodged something. Why Subaru allowed the EA82T to go single core , I don't know. Best thing for cooling my EA82T is EA81 radiator being twin core. Even found one EA81 radiator 40 mm longer than others. I wonder the pro's and con's of more boost versus extra initial timing? I used to run mine at26° normal boost. Went back to normal 20° for summer. I had run another at 12 psi no worries. Think I might try 26° std boost again see if I notice anything. Now been running knock sensor monitor for a year or so, reading it may assist query

And all the other part numbers required to finish a project some just cannot do themselves or cheaply ?? Radiator work Exhaust work Electrical hook up Dodgy looking flywheel mods Adaptor plate.....