Step-a-toe

My change-over is still getting under my feet

OK ! Thanks for both the link and the date. Interesting comments in what value some put on these When they were available from Subaru America , price was about US$10 each A mate of mine reckons he could get them made in China but by the time and trouble to produce an economical quantity, and small handling fee would they sell? A lot of us are on tight budgets, some are not.

Proper part name ? Trim ? Trying a restoration on this one.. Have had many years extended life by painting my first set with a hammer tone epoxy 20 years ago Just scored these... Front and rear doors appear to be the same, just handed for each side Gonna try a few with vinyl spray...until someone goes repro

Try to do one thing at a time between tries. Some of us throw everything at problem at once and can't pinpoint ,but problem goes Not sure if anyone does on car wheel balancing anymore. A 'finish' balance, on car can make up for extra bits in the steering and suspension causing imbalance We bought one mid 80's but was out of service more than in due to the pick ups in its lower control arm supports Only recently scrapped it after snaffling it's German components like hinges and wheels n axles

Out of my league Ricky, as soon as you start work inside ecu !! What I can offer is by memory of the first EA82 MPFi turbo ECU . According to manuals the EGR is to only operate at operating temperature and below 45 kph controlled by ECU Third parameter of control is manifold vacuum .Not sure if it is specified as X value inHg or not but from tinkering think it needed about minimum of 10 to activate the diaphragm. Sounds to me you are capable of making a dedicated EGR controller in stand-alone form and surgically remove the troublesome circuit from the ECU I ran a T onto my EGR vac line, ran extension into the cabin to run a second working EGR valve . When safe to do so, I held this in my hand, little pinky (finger !) poked into and on the diaphragm to feel when engine mounted EGR unit would work in relation to all other parameters, including vacuum gauge. I found the theory of ECU control was not the case Temperature had no say - it worked at all temps Speed had no say - it worked above 45 kph right through to highway speeds, so long as the vacuum was there. This was my first own EFI car to tinker with and when rescued nearly raped at the wreckers yard, it needed a new heart. Once running, I checked the codes to find "EGR solenoid is sticked to open or sticked to close" Yup. Solenoid no worky, swapped in one from a carb model - all fixed. Only ecu problem ever experienced, fixed but was like ECU just left it powered up all the while ignition was on

Top marks for: finding it sharing and letting on it was your work (Usually some unnamed slack bum you can't smack about for it)

The ECC Bennie !

Steering wheel shakes in your hands? Usually wheel balance but I have had to replace the tiny uni joint between rack and column to get rid of same, or maybe it was a rattle ??

See the abbreviation I found Bennie ?

Having bought an eight year slumbered Brumby I drained all fuel before any start attempt. What I didn't see was the barnacles formed inside the tank. Fresh fuel and finish off a balls up by a Subaru dealers workshop I got her running sweet, then parked for what turned out to be six months. Went to start....hmmmm, bat flattery....add a booster battery and that got it...got it running on two front pots anyway. Long annoying story short is I bent two pushrods on rear cylinders because the inlet valve stems were stuck A shiny black gummy varnish formed on valve stems, stuck them hard. I figure the fresh fuel leached the nasties from the barnacles and shared it with up front. So, it may be a pain to drain fuel tank and inspect from fuel gauge sender unit hole but can save a heap of grief. Fuel pump each way bet Helped a mate start his stored for 20 years in paid storage turbo Vortex XT. It didn't get tank inspection. Just fresh fuel, an oil change, primed up front with spare fuel pump until original pump up rear remember what its job was. Buyer hopped in and drove it 1200 km home. Lucky eh? Weber? Try it... If any probs I would take off and soak whole thing in a bucket of two stroke fuel for a week, pull out, drain, refit and try again

Glad to see you kept up the super sleuthing Jes. Crosses my mind that if this was the only wiring burning, how did you smell it as it is inside a sealed environment? Or was the external wiring also getting hot? Have seen the cooked wiring loom of a German made cars fuel pump. Needed more expertise than a generic mechanic and a new pump

Photo later when light improves Pulled a bulb from an 84 Sportswagon Same brand as light housing it,suggests either coincidence in brands or it has survived 478,000 km !

Four years is nothing compared to some. When you say uncovered, was this on bare dirt, gravel or concrete? If not on concrete I notice alloy components start to grow fur and underbody rust spots appear. Was it parked with a full tank of fuel? I find tanks last better fuller than empty ' to a yet to be determined period. The higher the octane rating the better fuel seems to keep. I am curious as to how long it takes fuel in different storage methods before it smells stale. Check the appearance of your fusible links close to the battery to ensure no corrosion happening

Why have I never seen this thread? What a tidy tailshaft centre bearing support ! I like the spacer idea You need to finish this in your way, your style Inspiring me to try similar. I have been too slow fitting up an AUDM EJ20 and it's AWD 5MT and keep bumping into issues I cut 60 mm from shift rods Recently made a dummy one piece tailshaft from 99 Imp donor using 50 mm plastic drainage pipe heated up and expanded to fit ends - to determine correct length should engineers not approve planned centre bearing support for the 07 Imp auto tailshaft which is bit shy of the snug fit I found the 99 Imp had. A friend is looking at EJ22 Liberty to dismantle to learn. I have my eye on his rubbish pile

When you say two pumps. One is low pressure to that box, the other your high pressure?

Yep after a sign maker quoted $100 for set up $50 each badge to make badges that resemble the SUBARU badge that goes there, but read as BRUMBY plus taxes This cost about $15 a side with each letter available individually This was trial side. Needed a solid guide shelf or ceiling as I applied. They just fit !!

Now, now Jes...I am led to believe the first 1985 models started in August 1984. We had a 1984 EA82 L Series 4WD wagon that had old motorbike style adjustable shocks on the rear, twist and release to next stop. Three positions ! I admit never tried to fit an EA81 dizzy to work in EA82 It might actually work ! But when used to be talk of going other way involved cog swap. Maybe dizzy drive cogs not compatible between models ?? One lock down bolt often only found on some neglected EA82s. Using 1983 got you unstuck there for EA82 match up Keep at it

I have plugged that hole for non Weber jobbies by drill to size to tap a decent size M10 or 12 can't recall Cut off a bit of a bolt, cut slit to drive it in with sealant -done EGR is manifold related no change to Weber up. You won't find bowl vent valves on the Weber so if you have wires to Hitachi they will be best sealed and restrained from shorting to ground on something If you have bowl vent air lines....start by plugging up until confusion fades and secondary snort noises excite

I pulled the filthy dirt and oil encrusted pump yesterday Trying my best to keep self clean and housing in one piece I can see score marks on one face of the rotating pieces so likely garbage but maybe the housing still worth looking at

Google might be a good source

Assuming OP is talking EA81 4 speed?????

I think we had O2 sensor controlled carbies here at some stage Bennie, or I have seen it on "grey" imports ( looked away real fast). I think the ecu is very basic and controls the enrichment ports of a carby

Shouldn't hear a starter relay click in ACC position unless you actually have a starter relay added after factory and should not be until after next position of RUN / IGN

Fusible links four inches from battery POS under little black box screwed to inside just below bonnet line Think we have lost him by now ..

All was running nice after rebuild I see On new season start up rough idle, you drove it then said all was fine....so the 300 yard drive resolved idle issue? As you then said "fine " again? Spitting out the carb, and rough idle can be a valve sticking in the guide, due to at least one reason , stale old fuels, chemicals falling out of mix and concentrating on valve guides More than one issue and the above may be a red herring to your electrical problem but good you shared history Because it cranks, what about share compression test results? Some of us older guys would love a roll in the gravel with a 36 year old troublemaker What if you get back to basics and disconnect fuel pump, make your own temporary , switchable power supply to pump and ignition coil You only need to pump to fill fuel bowl prior to starting 12v hot wire to coil + terminal with other wires to this terminal off and insulated away somewhere Dash gauge set been out? There is a Blue wire with black trace I think bullet connection off short wires at rear of gauges, disconnected has caused me grief before. test the light bulbs in back of dash cluster in case something popped them?