Step-a-toe

I'll take accolades for this (edit: freehand) effort though....

Not as if I put much effort into it

That is the FPR sort of buried The engineers could have made it more easily accessible but I reckon they knew 99%of them would likely outlive the car and engineers themselves if you have pull fuel lines out I would be going extra fiddly mile to renew EFI grade fuel hose as well one of my donors had a fire because of old hose before I got it

Went through this with long sat EA81, including bent push rods due to fresh fuel leaching gum varnish from barnacles inside tank. The whole coolant side full if crystallized crud, one head had a half peanut size hole corroded into face. I repaired, had a strong quiet engine on new HGs for 3 months let had myself a steam engine. Basket case. Salvaged nothing and scrap yards it to save any others grief

Oh yeah , often parts supplied may not look same as factory but will do the job, just maybe some mods. I trust pipe size is correct? What year and model did you order for?

One tiny downside is despite where it is, sunlight still gets down there, reflecting up into my eyes. I did the driver side a few years back but kept mum until I got a second one. I prefer one pictured Moosens, hurry up, I wanna see what you have in mind Happy to inspire

Same for EA81 - 20 mm Three per head

Never had spfi but what I gather is that the distributor I have seen for one spfi is that they are not connected to ECU at all, not reliant upon for spark Bring it in here and we should be able to get it going - called remote diagnostics $350 ??

Rescued this badge for a little bling Fuji pencils skimped on. Same size as cast in plastic badge Already got SUBARU GL on other side

I have seen weak, yellow spark and thought it not good enough as it was not blue Not Subaru, but I was proved wrong, yellow spark, started and ran fine. So I am assuming spfi ? Start from basics often helps rule some things out Have you been running covers off timing belts? When you say timing belt position appears correct, how so? I like to ask for comp test as step 1 after a few no goes diagnosing

31341AA110 Is an oil pump assy part number but for what ? Sounds EA82 or ER27??

You are starting to make me think I should pull the preserved in grot pump from "my" barn find. A mate has finally released it 30 months after I showed interest in bits for export Like anyone with 70-odd cars, he had an attachment to this bucket of rust and took something like a car stashed deeper than it that he wanted out, before I could get at it. He packs them in like sardines in a tin 9/84 compliance plate EA81 Sportswagon 478,000 km on the odo. Pretty amazing the odo has counted this far. Never had one wind up thistle much Has black rocker covers so may be later engine in it. Now, to your oil pressure query I guess cold readings are not what anyone is chasing, but worth noting for those that ask. And with our old girls maybe they should be warned up a bit so not to pop oil pressure things ? What I have read is that at op temp, ~ 10 psi per thousand revs in normal driving is found 20 psi at 2000 rpm about normal ? Are you going to check its feeler gauge specs?

I had a look at what is on offer online in today's world (Discopotato03 was 2007 ) Found some YouTube reviews and tech know how's I would be in same place as you not knowing which one to go for and might go for cheapest to get familiar and see how it goes, brand names later if need be

Mmm....as for replacement, have you looked at Rockauto for a like for like? If you google username Discopotato03 ausubaru.com.au and fpr you may find the aftermarket unit he used on EA82T

Put up a want EA82 engine ad in here Give your location Who knows, a lurking reader may pipe up

What manual you refer to? I think factory Shop manual for flapper turbo is 36 psi

Al, nobody would recommend you to pour water into your crankcase but it is available in most countries about the same formula. Once it mixes via heat and pressure it does a great clean up of the oil contact areas. Then, just an oil and filter change to get the buttermilk mix out and vent off the crankcase until all residual water gone after each drive - oil cap off

Possibly burning out due to threads in head needing first aid. All success in removing studs, sliding new gaskets in can come undone when studs won't tighten - pull it all out again to repair thread

Penetrant won't work in some of my worst, they have been like hard brown mud, expanding into the space they had, outgrowing it's space ..no room for anything to soak through

Anyone understand and can explain what our two pin ignition modules need or pick up inside the dizzy? And why it won't work I assume outside the dizzy

Service recording continued beyond dealer servicing is reassuring you know what happened. It is when there are no records and an inch of grease like sludge in the bottom of the sump that you marvel at their survival given their lack of care, let alone service. I must admit when it comes to transmission and diff I renew with old school style fluids when car comes my way and feel confident to almost not change it again for 100,000 km

Evaporation such a minimal loss , just keep an eye on things, including footwell carpet moisture content - heater core

Ricky, you keep calling relays "solenoids" you gonna make other brains sweat Yeah, I thought no relay on switching side was odd but leave it as they were for 30 years

Nice and rare to find just a golden tinge to the internals instead of black carbon crudge the norm. I pulled one of my rebuilds apart after 120,000 km ( because I had to ) . Pristine,like new inside after 8 years due to oil and filter change every 10,000 km Have seen and heard of engines doing 50 and 60,000 km without an oil change. The old VW air coolers driven weekly by widows being found full of oil turned to grease or the Buick designed V6 finally seizing and snapping a camshaft Makes me wonder how far our Subes have been neglected Now, I dare you to try a coolant flush...

With IGN on you find they are energised but not always as in IGN off, door closed, locked and cabin empty? Might well be normal but I don't like idea of being energised all the IGN on time, but guess after 30 years they not failed? I have rigged up same relays to work only when towing to boost the rear indicators from 8.6V to battery voltage so my trailer LED indicators work. All three Brumbies if mine had trouble making LED trailer blinkers bright until B3 was sorted. Thinking I now may have gone to a lot of trouble for nothing, afterall our ecu and FP relays are always on with IGN ! Our headlight switches switch Earth side, think no relays Earth side just positive