Step-a-toe

Aha, is the electric choke connected and functioning or was the connector just randomly hanging about in the engine confines? Good that you found it

Did that ECM run a carburettor prior to Weber install?

Good idea and reasoning. Does bring back memories of Triumph TR7 with corroded head studs, nuts removed and block and tackle trying to lift head off block, just enough to get a hacksaw between head and block

I didn't the first time but did on refit once I heard the chances of corrosion possibly worse

Yes, been told this and was curious last time I pulled them. Nothing to be concerned so far

With the smarts, time and effort it takes to do this job I would not want to suggest my Mazda truck and have it fail on you. Used to pull Mazda boxes apart, rough up the hardened cone that the synchros sit on and turn crunch into smooth without replace any parts Emery paper took the slippery shine out, giving synchro something to bite Was a trick a gearbox shop taught brothers mate when he worked for them

Yep two wires, green connector on my turbo EFI stuff, Different manifold design but should be in a water jacket, and not too far from single wire temp gauge sender

I think some of us need a bank of DMM on dash to read from CTS, O2 and a few other sensors just so we know what things do when all is running fine I would love a fuel pressure gauge

Hooking up the wrong hose does it OP tells us

A good bolt supplier. I bought a set in stainless to try Only problem is heads come in 13 not 12 mm I was thinking a drain hole drilled in the side of each bolt and a fill hole to blow spray lube straw to prevent further corrosion, or future corrosion I should say Same idea may work for tricky stuck bolts, as most, but not all of my problems were stuck in manifold, not the thread stuck

Sorry, I suggested clear bottle in place of charcan so you can make observation as anything goes in , hook up an outlet hose too? Monitor if any fumes exist or exit? What's a charcan do? Once upon a time fuel caps were sometimes vented as there were no other vent outlets at fuel tank, just bulk fuel in, and fuel sucked out. If I capped a charcan I'd need to ensure fumes/ pressure coming off the tank got to go somewhere like the atmosphere, and not anywhere I would smell the fumes as I do now in my XT that is factory, but something is amiss. All is fine if I drive with windows closed, sunroof shut and recycle air. Also stinks shed out after parking. I was thinking if clear bottle theory to observe my own problem, share it with anyone

Was getting worried we got short changed on uni joint quantity as well as model range Yep, seen one guy in a Subaru shirt doing a youtuborial so must be on the ball i ordered the ones with snap rings or C clips that Rock sell for the EA82, list two options , had one staked in stock. The clips do not fit in a traditional tailshaft yoke groove, but on the outside of the cap against inside flat edge of the yoke ears. I once imagined machine shop would somehow cut grooves into yoke ears, but I guess I was wrong for once i need to look at what is needed, either simple quick file or a vi$it to the machine shop

If you block off the brake vacuum booster port on the manifold do the brake pedal press symptoms stop? Don't drive until reconnected or you may not be back in here. Thinking a vacuum gauge for diagnostics may be helpful. They are the olde worlde tune up machine if you learn to decipher them. Fit a clear PET drink bottle in place of the charcan for diagnostic purposes lol And for this post let us know if driving or stationary Using the word runs nice does not tell us if you have road load going on Did you get to test drive the donor as spfi at all? Maybe these symptoms why it was parted? My first EFI was EA82 My first turbo was the same EA82 it "ran" well stationary, it drove well until I asked of it - just 2nd gear would be nice....so only drove nice, low speed, first gear, 50 metres i T'eed in a fuel pressure gauge to see the pressure at 36 psi all while stationary revving. Driving was different, fuel pressure gauge taped to outside of windscreen dropped to 10 psi before I could get out of first of three auto gears

Your user name suggests you have one. Do you? If so , do tell Factory did AWD auto four speed and 5MT in dual range and single range. Different markets over the model range around the world got different options. I had an E4AT more as a 113kg ornament, have a single range and a dual range behind Series One and Two turbos

One manufacturer pointed out that the ones with C clips are not as heavy duty or recommended. Think C clips have smaller diameter cross. Careful measuring prior to removal might get it centred nicely before spot weld I was wondering if a drive prior to staking might harmonise things? Which is why thought I would go the C clip method, may have to pay a shop to do some machining, but not the next time the joint needs easy replacement

Oh boy... Not but picking ( much) but you said plural on front half Closer inspection reminds me the front half has one single uni joint as we Aussies call them. On the yoke out of gearbox Rear of front half is the centre bearing Rock did not seem to have anything larger than the 22 mm SKF UJ10430 for the C clip style to replace staked type i think the two tailshafts I had side by side were from 87 and 91. One has staked ~22 mm, the other has ~25 mm and it's yokes are larger. It looks like somewhere in its life it had a larger style yoke welded to shaft side to take the 25 mm greasable jobbie. Maybe yours has big heavy duty - oh, staked? Sounds factory..... I thought I needed to start somewhere so ordered the clip style listed at twice price of staked and go from there. Arrived yesterday. SKF made in china

On the rotation Moosens, I only just figured this out recently and think you did a direct photo ? I think if I do it with my tablet, I need to take photo first, then fumble through touch random spots on screen for edit functions, guessing what some icons are Once correctly oriented then load it Took me a while to work out I had an icon looked like traditional camera and it rotated as I jiggled device nobody tells us this !! My first glance at diagram looked like the bush is #11 but #11 is a bolt..... Could you make a temporary bush out of rubber hose?

Good stuff New Weber or just as cruddy looking as your worn out and fiddled with Hitachi?

Not seen any non turbo EA82 with knock sensors, but the 85&86 turbo got this dizzy that I would not recommend you try to use. But you are welcome to send me their module There is a US based member in here that has a secret personal use only supply of these units to keep his ever faithful EA82T on the road. To the OP , don't mind GDs opinion, just heed his warnings, he has good knowledge on EA82 and some bad experiences Never let EA82 extend oil and filter changes, never let them get hot - if need be use elusive twin core EA82 radiator or adapt EA81 radiator as they are all twin core. Keep EGR clean, keep PCV clean Fit new timing belt kit every 40,000 miles When my dizzy module dies I plan to do the Ford EDIS4 distributorless ignition. Like my EA82 that much

Well, I run a Hitachi fuel injection EA82 distributor and no fuel injection, no fuel injection ECU I essentially run a "carburettor" , an Impco propane carburettor or mixer. I also run a turbo in the mix. I have also run the same dizzy Hitachi 4 wire on NA EA82 but the advance curve makes driving about as exciting as my driving experience in a boxy, automatic mid 70's Volvo !! The first series XT EA82 were MPFi not spfi They ran a Nippon Denso two wire distributor in the US we recently discussed. Seen the same here. FWIW it looks just like the EA82 carby dizzy ND that we got here So you can run an injection dizzy, just not an spfi dizzy without extra stuff - some use signals from the optical dizzies to run aftermarket controls for spark and/or fuel Same goes for the series 2 MPFi optical insides dizzies Interchanging EA82 dizzies into EA81 has involved cutting off the bottom of the shaft which is a support, like a gearbox input shaft sitting in the pilot bearing of a flywheel, no bearing, just an oil supplied bushing cast into the cambox. I recall instruction was also to swap drive cog and or its pin position.Cut off one of the EA82 hold down ears To put an EA81 dizzy in EA82 cam box it would not have the shaft support bushing in the cam box. It might all just work, even with one hold down ear - but for how long?

Well, some EA81 got points and condenser Kettering ignition in some parts of the world. I had two and sold them to a guy who loved the basics of having the system let you down, then pull out spare items, set things right and keep on rolling i hear GDs opinion , good learning curve especially with the help you can get in here. But, I also wanna see how the higher comp goes with your Weber. Learn old school carbides, progress to fuelies .....

EA81 dizzy will not swap properly I don't think. EA82 are modified to work in EA81 though so maybe some work your EA81 will fit and work reliably. Many appear to EJ swap their EA82 bodies so put up a want thread for dizzy Look up user Tweety on ausubaru.com.au He had an adapter plate made to level up the spfi intake and adapt a 38/38 Weber Bennie may have an easy link to pics?

The dress rings do add a different depth in appearance to our white steelies but scratch the finish so really best used to tidy up scabby rims instantly , paintless

Well done and thanks for finishing off the post Did you add any lube to O ring first?

A few options I have never had, seen or heard of points dizzy EA82 So unless our markets very different, your kit is for EA81 1982 or 1983, maybe early 1984 I have had EA82 fwd carby sedan with a Hitachi two wire module with vacuum can, just hooks up to coil. Shared same module as EA81. No ecu hook up or dependence I have also run a Denso EA82 dizzy as seen on the first XT MPFi in USA , same as our 87 carby models got. Again, two wires to coil, vacuum can on its side. No ecu hook up or dependence. For those of us never seen spfi dizzy...can you load a pic of it with cap off and maybe part number stamp or label please? Ok, you made use of what you had...no EA82 carb inlets? I hear spfi ran higher comp , could be an interesting result with the Weber. Usual 32/36 or 38/38?