Step-a-toe

Sorry, after fitment

You would be surprised how easy it is to fit back in yourself, with one pair of hands. I paid a *cough " pro" mobile fitter. His poobox work wagon leaked black oil on my drive, charged me a 20 years into the future price on new gasket, did it dry, quoting they were a dry fit. It leaked Subaru manual says use sealant prior to fit. 14 years ago they wanted $88. Took me 20 minutes

Only ways I worked out was disposal of the dress rims. In today's terms, just keep them socially distanced

The elusive front uni ...on the shaft I have looked the front is ~25 mm variety, non staked , nippled, shiny metal so has been replaced at some stage. Uni on rear half are ~22 mm so , in my case, they are not the same. Is your front one closer to 25 or 22 mm? I need to look at my parts manual to see if it gives clues on part number or numbers if they differ over the years Look down a few posts, think I entered trivia in a post title Toyota U joints

Helps ward off old Murphy showing his ugly face when you can be prepared like you propose

Just trying to think about factory radio wiring of this era Speaking generally not Subie specific, there have been two methods since the days of digital functions such as memory and clock are concerned. Prior to this, car radio just had its power from accessory circuit, so worked on ACC and IGN positions of IGN switch Once radios had clock and digital memory they got two power feeds. For main functions, the fattest power wire came from ACC, then a skinny wire from direct , constant battery hopefully fused from battery, just for time and memory. Then someone changed things just to trick me - They decided the constant battery supply would be main power supply so the fattest power wire would have power while ever battery is connected, and the skinny wire at radio would just be like a relay switch wire for ACC and IGN key positions. Did the 1990 model use earlier or later method? I suspect the earlier, skinny constant feed for memory was used until CD players hit cars a few years later. I got tricked wiring up the newer model with older method, so whenever I cranked the volume I blew a fuse as main power was sucking from my skinny ' signal's wire. So your buddy must have encountered two power supply circuits in his adventure, but neither of these appear to share circuits with starting and running of engine EXCEPT , possibly the fusible links near the coolant reservoir on EA82 models......usually fabric covered fuse wire, in red, green, black, in a little plastic box in line of 12 v positive lead from battery Has all this been checked??

It might help again if you can identify the wiring your gifted friend shorted out. Where it is located, more importantly the colours, main and trace Someone may recognise it.

You followed a black ground from the fuse box? There usually no grounds at or through the fuse box, as I think E verything is positive. Not all black wires are grounds, if they have a trace colour they will likely be positive not ground. What if you disconnect ecu before next tracing 1985 Hatchback I assume is EA81 engine/ body/ Gen2 ? And you said ECU . Controls carby ? Not familiar downunder with EA81 with ecu but if error says solenoid, have you found any ? Disconnect for test next fuse, test solenoid on its own EA82 body shape Gen3 were only referred to as RXii ?

Do you know the history of this head? If it had behavioral issues that relate to cracks, you should be concerned. I have done a few builds EA82 and T with various visible looking cracks that machine shop say checked out in the vacuum test, even paid more for their hot test, still ran fine. No one is going to guarantee you won't have problems. X-ray time ! I would run it, but might be a bit shaky if it was the family holiday tourer. Use a twin core radiator, ( from an EA81 if needed)to keep it cool

Black 51 A Skylar

OK, that is well explained. I don't have a DMM that has a dwell function that I know of, but I do have an old dwell meter So attach red to coil + and black to body earth and watch what dwell needle does from IGN off, IGN on, and running ? Gosh, if this is the simplest , fastest and reliable module test explained on the internet it needs broadcasting or made into a sticker for under the hood !

Give us some background? Was running fine for you for years? Or you picked it up as a project with a no start? Something that may help us help you. Starting to think every no start needs to be asked for compression test and go from there. Is it a broken dizzy side timing belt causing this no start? Pull dizzy cap off and confirm rotor turns with engine, you have rotor at all and intact carbon brush inside centre of cap? Know how to test a coil?

Or read other experienced contributions already pasted up about this forum, other forums

Oh yeah, step one is if you know engine is coming apart, access and crack open front gudgeon plugs while still in car. I have often needed some flame for the one behind water pump. Same as Bennie, I shelled out for half inch drive socket with 14 mm hex and sneak up on the others with a long breaker bar

Not disputing suggestion here but surely the head studs help align the heads on EA81 and tension would hold head in pretty good position. My suggestion is a thought only, because I thought the dowels prevent things shifting about with all the thermal changes that go on over the engines lifetime. Sometimes find dowels in corresponding component - the head in this case . Machine shop take it out and forget to give it back?

Dowell, sort of there to prevent any movement, unsettling of the head during its reliable service life. I would be finding one...

Sometimes some of us need it spelled out in fine detail ( More of those on Facebook thankfully ) And sometimes when it is, an OP might declare something that was not obvious, so I thought worth mentioning but you may have picked it in the EJ22 variety

Seen thoughts that at op temp we often see under ten psi per thousand revs. Australian market mostly had just the idiot light so most can have no idea , sometimes less stress My non factory gauge liked to show zero at idle yet switch that has , what 6 psi ? trigger point, stays off. My gauge sender died, still dead. Gauge is sometimes a toy

Yeah, things flex normally a bit, more as mounts age or crack n break. This is the clutch fan off water pump? I ditched mine and fitted twin electric fans and being EA82 in EA81 body and radiator think things are closer, I had a pulley just buzz my fan wiring insulation until I better retained wires

All the engine management components Air flow metres not used? MAP sensor instead? That be one Two, um, swap in old injectors , new ones may be dirty and not spray nice Yep, someone said coolant temp sensor O2 sensor , if it's reading not received or is crap, the default is run rich

Now I need to eat into the box of EJ22 I have for a wet year or so do you happen to know month Gen2 started Bennie?

Keep the oil pump and all the belt drive cogs off crank and cams Ricky. The EA81 gudgeon pin extraction tool Part # SUB 399094310 STEPPY Made from an old head bolt if some old Ford, ground down to make use of a lip. Plain mild steel rod then drilled, tapped same thread female as head bolt, add slide handle from steam pipe, washers etc. Strong enough to pull block around floor as I ease gp out

I have ordered from Rock whatever there listing is for C clip rear section tailshaft unis If it is not in stock in store at some of our suppliers they want to slug customer a freight charge of 10,15 or $20 even if it takes a week...I think A$17 FedExed to my door over 15,000 km or so is more than a reasonable excuse to keep buying from Rock Will deal with front one when it is out and my spare is in use

Similarity in part number of this one and SKFs number of UJ10430

OK Pretty good that I have had EA82 tailshafts in my life constantly for over 15 years and only now looking at them in finer detail. There has been a bit of a hint that the three unijoints in total are not identical when Rocks catalogue suggests front shaft uni of which there is only one , differs from the pair in the rear shaft So having thrown out seven EA82 tailshafts and seven 3.7 dirty diffs I cannot compare a lot of shafts now I am looking at the shaft from my 1987 TW manual dual range that I ran in my 84 Brumby, or was that tailshafts from the 91 EA82 donor....come to think of it...possible most likely It's front uni looks not original, no staking, in fact the ends of the cups are almost flush with the yokes that have a neat square inside for where the C clips fit snugly Grease nipple (.) too Looks close to being 25 or 25.4 mm cups This uni is fine. The rear section still has original looking staking and unis front and back. Front feels fine, rear just a little arthritic but gave no hint ( from memory) of problems Rockauto listing for 1987 with C clips only list for rear shaft Hope my scrawled notes are correct here... SKF UJ10430 Uh oh.... SKF site lists U joints with four grooved round bearings Suit Nissan, Subaru, Toyota Cups 0.867". (22.02mm) Other car makes use 0.886" (22.50mm) !! Distance between outsides of fitted C clips I am assuming from a sketch and some text is 1.40" (35.56mm) In a long winded to way i am prepping to swap out a two piece shaft from my EA82 Brumby that I suspect is responsible for vibration felt in body under squirt. I suspect front shaft uni because image on rear view mirror on windscreen shakes about during squirt sessions. Mirror is roughly directly above front uni This current tailshaft's previous owner denied any bad symptoms, yet when I installed it I had small vibration. This small vibration went away when I installed previous owners matching awd gearbox. Theory is the constant drive masks vibrations So, now it may have been suggested that the ~25 mm unijoint at front with clips and zerk may just be same as EA81 single piece tailshaft replaceable unijoint Anyone know these EA82 two piece uni joints intimately?? (.) aka zerk