Step-a-toe

No, but name what you are looking for as some of us may have some numbers scratched down

Aha, road tested. and electronic dizzy not a points one going by its year model? I forget this detail of starting an EA81 after dizzy removal so can't help with where the rotor normally points, or the four pointed doo dad on the shaft, but my general rule of thumb is to shift from TDC to timing mark of 8° and the doo dad fin lines up with its trigger points, rotor points to or either side of contact point for it in cap. EA81 only have the clearest of marking on flywheel, goes on one way only. I am curious also. I have run an NA EA82 with 22° of initial advance but cannot fathom 40° retarded working at all Keep us up to date

1 3 2 4 ?? Not 1342?

My thoughts too. Also something not stated ( I don't think) until OP last post is engine is in bench test condition as photo suggests ? So hasn't been driven in order to be able to say runs well. On valve clearances, I have set solids to factory 10 and 12 thou once only, and got a chaff cutter. My cams always a sports grind so may have different spec needs to factory. I ended up setting at operating temperature to four thou. for all. 500,000 km worth on two EA81 so done nothing wrong. A hydraulic lifter engine will have finer tolerance as OP has found. Is it hydraulic?

Well put GD, but I can see an inquisitive mind trying to teach his son OP has mentioned his timing marks are on the crank pulley, which is why I mentioned flywheel. A comment reply indicating he had noted this but has not said he is getting indications from flywheel yet. I want to hear how he finds #1 TDC and see a pic of rotor button at this point and say a mark where #1 lead lines up on outskirts of dizzy housing. Another question is what grade of fuel?

Timing marks are on the flywheel for EA81

I have ever only once not surfaced Subaru heads before new head gaskets - lasted three months before it started choofing in coolant. Just made it home. EA81 of unknown background sat eight years, I sorted it, then let it sit six months when fresh fuel leached out gums and varnishes from inside fuel tank walls This stuck up valves, caused to pushrods to bend, so new gaskets and went well, pulled strong, was quiet, then all of a sudden.... Stains ?? The least of your worry surely?

When searching for HVLA online, some suppliers have a lifter that fits some US market made car and EA82 Down under we had GMH Camira that Nissan used their engines in Astra. I have been told by knowledgeable Subie mechanic that this engines lifter also fits. Might explain visual and other differences you point out

I have also pulled one of these HVLA apart and never to go back again i always thought they had a rubber seal component, so was surprised i am certain there must be someone in Australia to rebuild these, just never asked the right people has got too expensive to send a family of these critters to US and back again

Sounds like needle and seat, governed by float I had similar with 465 Holley where I fitted a splash guard on the outside of bowl gasket when was supposed to be under gasket. So I had this brass wedge shape intermittently getting stuck under float so carb would not take fuel in

My XT turbo 87.5 valve springs are inner and outer

Ido, when you said learnt the hard way about springs up the wrong way....what symptoms did you have ???

Yep, Ricky, EA81 have them as well. Dare say EA71 as well, don't have any experience

Had me believing internet fibs for a short, confused moment

GD does not like EA82 you might gather every engine that has come my way has been a basket case so I never expect anything of it until I have done my bit i get the impression cars and engines a bit like a hot potato when something goes wrong for most of us i stayed in the EA family for a number of reasons gearbox bolt pattern between EA - same radiator hose ID same exhaust port bolt pattern same i saw EJ as needing ECU wiring to get around in head, then in car as a hurdle for me, so thought start with EA82T and 14 years later still happy with what I have got out of them My EJ conversions have so far been abandoned turbo an EJ16 - discarded ej22 dirty heavy old lump still hoarded in a box ej20 from AUSDM 99 Impreza and it's box is sitting, getting bit by bit look at, and you know what?? When it and driveline all fits, it is coming out to make way for my twin port EA82 NA Mongrel for some more fun

EA are double spring ferp

FSM says every two years, 30,000 miles for air filter, PCV air filter and PCV valve Any original owners got dealer service dockets with a PCV valve on the parts invoice ? ouch FSM says turbos need new spark plugs every 7500 miles or six months, or 15,000 mile for NA Cambelt R every 60,000 miles, (100,000km) yet I have service docket from 1990 on my 89 Brumby that states for the L Series and XT new belt every 36 months or 75,000 km Comforting to know the dealer stuff conflicts the manuals

In order to be reliable thirty years later they deserve a reseal at a minimum. New timing belt kit, intake manifold off to replace intake gaskets and the freeze plugs in the back of it 10, 12, 14 mm ones rust out The banjos in the turbos are usually nasty by now, as is the special pitot tube style banjo bolt in the bottom of RHS head for turbo coolant hard line And the bent coolant hose between turbo and head. I replace with silicone heater hose and a spring like hose shaper EA are easier to swap about I believe I run EA82T in my 89 ute Uses the twin port intake of MPFi

I have said before somewhere that I had an EA82T I got cheap, was nice and quiet, strongest and best power delivery I have had in flat manifold form, nice smooth idle So I was surprised to find its comps to be 120,120,120,60 60 and great engine, no hint in performance or idle just blow by issues. Still deep in shed as a short motor waiting for me to tear down to find stuck rings I suppose. Got it on Miss 15s second birthday so better pull a finger out ...

If you like Ricky, use my colour code system for marking bits from each cylinder I use coloured cable ties One use red...remembered by 3 letters each word, one red Two blue, rhymes and blue has one more letter than red Three green, both got ee and green one more letter than blue Four yellow coz yellow one more letter again Cable ties great for quick labelling with dirty hands or gloves, degreaser won't disolve as can marker or coloured tape. Great to tie to rockers, around HVLA, marking posts on dizzy caps and both ends of ht leads or even just both ends of vac tubes to be disconnected for tear down I add a white tie for inlet coz white is clean like inlet Black for dirty exhaust bits So a rocker with a blue tie and white tie is #2 inlet

In prep for this posts 12 th birthday ?

Who votes heads off, tear down, maybe off to machine shop for best opinion? Maybe with serviced heads, new gaskets you still have suspect compression results. Is it worth the experience and cost??

Yep, and on your comp readings I don't like #4 zero When I do mine I pull fuel supply fuse and ignition fuse. Foot flat to floor so no choke of air pathway. Sometimes do cold because won't go at all Prefer to do at op temp Like to use fuel line length to remove and install plug as a tool, other than initial loosen and final tighten Don't worry about straying, it is all same issue really.

In my mind's eye I see picture of a line of installed valves, their tips all being checked for how flush they are in comparison with each other, all at once, with a steel rule. If you do this and measure the difference and tell us all, someone may pipe up. I would not expect HVLA to take up the slack for a big difference such as what we think we saw in previous pics

In here now, thought you said you had put spring in upside down. This was since you had the rocker not wanting to play ball? And editing now I have read your latest explanation. When you pass the five month mark, I shall hand my determination-with-EA82 award over to you Ricky My Mazda 1300 TC determination trophy was back in 1989.....went through four engine tear downs to get it right. I was already king of brown window silicone for gaskets. First, replace missing little end bush New noise, so tear down to replace other three No difference by second rebuild Head off only this time to find valve seat loose, tried an amazing epoxy glue that worked for one drive Fourth time, fourth head gasket, I centre punch marked it in place . Bingo !!