Step-a-toe

I cannot hear anything unusual in either of those two sound clips. If this was a Swiss watch forum, you could be concerned But if you have a spare engine not in use, remove HVLA and send them to Mizpah Engineering to do a rebuild on them for about six bucks each to keep on hand. Sweet job he does on them

Handy to know such trivia i used one from a 99 Impreza I pulled apart, so I now have a yellow one using current designer thinking of only things drivers needs to see and touch under the bonnet is yellow Had to use a bigger square drill to make it fit

Aha ! The EA82T Series One is said to be much the same as EA81T. One difference is the number probably only due to design differences as the younger is set at 20° I have run it as high as 26° and ECU takes no control if spark at all as it is mechanical advance, plus vacuum advance/ boost retard vacuum cannister on the side. And there is also the knock control module

There is no internal coil on these old things, that you will see on RHS strut tower. Undo the clips of dizzy cap and take a peek Should be able to search terms ignition module Subaru EA81 on eBay or learn to use Rockauto catalogue

Yep, OK , I can imagine the crud getting caught up. Probably only run ten Subie engines in over 20 years and each one has had sump off clean up and reseal, manifolds off and decoked, PCV hoses cleaned out or replaced, new PCV valve and rocker cover breathers all cleaned up for future reliability as far as cleanliness goes. Only one of these and eight or so other engines were tidy and it had 20 years of Subaru service records ! The rest arrived as black filth clad crud, little sign of any regular maintenance at all, nearly every one with original looking ignition components including consumables Worst of all had about an inch thick of a specially formulated particle trap in the bottom of the sump

Can you make a video or just an audio of the noise Ricky? I might be able but don't know if I could make it stick to a post , so may be a bit rough asking someone to do something I can't Chafing sound could be interpreted differently by others Chafing sound I am thinking of is Corduroy clad thighs touching as wearer walks, voot, voot, voot

I just did a sample postage quote on Seattle WA One kilo ~ 2.2 lbs 12 cm cubed A$100 warranty Approx two week delivery UPS A$45. ..US$30? !

Here in Australia we cannot understand the US needs for oil pumps. Every rebuild I do is devoted, new slugs, bearings and head service The oil pump gets a once over visually, a clean up and run the feeler gauge against manual specs. Here are pics of one of mine, it is yet to be spec'd , has some minor scuff marks where the mating faces are but alloy housings are nice. I had no oil pressure gauge on this engine but maintained oil pressure idiot light sender units so things worked as expected. Weighs 780 grams. Am thinking of listing on ebay Show us your knackered oil pumps ??

No pick up eye optical in these babies. Should find a 2 pin module in there, common to a few Japanese cars of the day. As these $40 items fail, they sometimes display symptoms you describe Philips screwdriver for its two retaining screws, two six inch long in total flat blade screwdrivers to gently lever the four lobe thing off shaft watching the little roll pin located between it and the flat of shaft, lift out old, in with new. Here in Australia we could buy an EA81 4 speed Brumby up until 1994, though last make date was 1992 as far as I know. The OHC EA82 went on sale late 84? Or early 85 Then 1989 the EJ Liberty on the market, so Fuji were producing EA81, EA82 and EJ22 powered models all three body shapes simultaneously for a three year period. Then there were the Justy , Fiori, Sherpa two and four cylinders, then flat six SVX ! All in 1992 I think

Here in Australia I can't understand what you guys do to EA82 to need new oil pumps. Most do near 400,000km and whole car is just trashed, except maybe a gearbox for an EA81. I once compared the weight of a 4EAT (113kg) to the (55kg) of a part time 4WD box but forgot 16 kg of flywheel and clutch. A fella locally ditched his my way claiming he loved the difference in fuel, handling since ditching his lard arse auto. I can see GDs point in going awd auto for a loaner in the bush, and their abilities. And it sounds like good advice The Loyale EA82 can be a nice, light, reliable and capable beast. The 5MT needs no computer I still like my EA stuff after 25 years, my EJ stuff is still in boxes and non going vehicles And GD I am thinking of reboring an EA82 to make use of some new flat top pistons. Machining guy seems to think no problem getting bearings or parts to do heads The oil pump has done 90,000 km and some turkey pulled inlet manifold and let coolant rust the bore a little

Ah, ok just a suggestion on thoughts. If it is coming from inside on the dizzy side , another thought is often find dizzy rotor rubbing into module do not remove covers inside. Other than that , rocker cover off ..

See if you can get a feel for the tension. Bit tricky comparing due to different lengths and I think different lengths of no support, wheels or tensioners

You have got one of those rare , challenging EA82s haven't you Ricky? 400 a minute at 800 rpm sort of sounds like camshaft maths You know best is to investigate maybe with the outer front timing belt cover off for starters. Chafing is not a run in noise I am familiar with. But it may be the noise you can get from New timing belts, maybe sounding as if, only as if, a bit tight A sort of vvvvvvv sound. One may be tighter than the other?

GD is in the room ! It is a while, I had a question for you but has escaped me for the moment. Those old FL can be in as new looking condition or a corroding mess just festering to leave you in the lurch. Can just depend on what past 30-40 years has been like to them In EA81 and EA82 they can be updated from the siliconey looking insulation fabric type to the Female Fusible Link FFL for an acronym, like human females, leg length varies so the ones that fit have about 12 mm legs And with a little help from my friends we arrived at the Do not swap colour of fabric for colour of FFL, if you do you might double the rate at where new FFL will blow burning out your pride and joy first What have we got in the EA82 ? Three colours? Red, green and black? The simple way we worked out was to find the Subaru manual rating on each colour of the fabric ones first for reference Say dealing with green fabric, shift across to green FFL to find its Amp rating cast in the clear plastic lid ( ignoring the 230V) if the green is 40A , you want to find an FFL with half that 40A , so 20A , will be a different colour, but will have 20A in the clear plastic lid. Using this method for years now, like the boys following the advice from auto elecs, and internet saying go colour for colour ( possibly doubling the load needed to blow them ) We have had no problems. If we had underrated the FFL you would think we stuffed up, only on the side of caution. Next time you at a wrecking yard, see if the fabric ones have been snaffled or corroded

I know when I was after an internal dowel for the gearbox the answer was dowel comes as part of the casing i pulled a perfectly good box apart to get another little sucker ....

Good thing is that you are learning to keep your beast on the road. The world is getting short of mechanics willing to nut out the old school stuff. I get the impression the young blokes wanna plug in the scan tool, carry out what it suggests and hope that fixes things. Next thing that goes wrong just start a new thread and go from there

Yes , position is pretty critical. A little further reading EDIS 4 is not for boosted applications. So, just something to think about for my NA Mongrel ...and been sitting on a set of flat top slugs to do an interference high comp version

Shucks, thanks Bennie, but this sort of thing would stretch my skill set if something not work out. OK , I didn't stop to count the slots. Gannon is up on this, Arduino stuff, optical dizzy .... If I mounted radiator fan on the front there would be heaps of clearance to radiator of a front mounted trigger wheel on crank pulley damper. Found an old post today of a proposal by some fella doing holes in front face of his Ford 4 cross flow engine. He had his neat 36 holes...post petered out Guessing the holes give the magnetic dropout. Around the flywheel or crank pulley needs dividing into 36 equal portions to produce 36 holes, 36 spaces between holes, so a hole diameter needs to equal 5° of ya circumference And then that missing toof for the 36-1 thing to work -remove material between two specific holes Jeepers, the optical is gotta be the way to go ....

Only 120 psi? For comparison, my series one turbos have been 120 at op temp, fuel and spark fuses pulled and throttle fully open Most of my NA have been 175-190 psi My Series two turbo 150 psi Comp tests are said to variable due to conditions but I never found the variation. One of the quietest, smoothest, hard pulling EA82T revealed 60 psi in #3 120 the others....could not tell by its idle or performance....until up mountains where compression lost from #3 slipped past rings and assisted engine oil to escalate up the rear PCV baffle plate and push on to my intake and suck into combustion - James Bond style. a catch can only made it worse , providing a hot, black oil bath on tap

The cam drive cog has 36 teeth If one could have a tooth knocked out, shaved down and mounted to crank pulley machined to fit...taking up the unused V groove.. I get the feeling a sensor needs longer teeth to read correctly Now see why those who have done aftermarket control have used the optical dizzy - I think it has 360 tiny slots in its breaker wheel. Better accuracy than 36-1 trigger wheel for certain

Can I help you @carfreak 85 ?

Question everything you read on the internet Ricky Yep, all my manuals say back off, oil stuff, redo three stage retension , but discussion with local trusted Subaru parts manager of same loyalty to brand as machine shop old guy tells me the dealership did no slack off, oil then retension - but he may have been talking stretch bolt EJ stuff now I think about it I found genuine EA82 gaskets take no more from a retorque after cool down. Given it was machine shop guy giving warranty - I followed his advice. No problems EA82 specifically

Well, the ECU is not smart enough to control lights. At least start this path by finding your ECU, check its condition, spray plugs and pins with a suitable cleaner. And post up the numbers on ECU in case a reader has same to offer you. A mate fixed a minor ecu problem by contact spray of plugs. There are 20 different ecu part numbers for EA82 worldwide, over a decade

Used to be a lot of UK guys doing this to all sorts of once-were-dizzies style cars 36 teeth with one missing is simpler than Subaru three finger wheels and 36-2 style One tooth for every 10° Sounds like fun to tune Shame can't just jump to that stage

I think all links above are dead. Gosh, I wonder if Jono can remember his password? :)