Step-a-toe

My trusted since 36 years , OMG ! that long ?? Machine shop guy let out a big NO, do not back them off first, you only just liked and tensioned them! Just set torque and tighten. Loosening has given him failures. OK so I have done both ways until his big NO

Or more accurate/ complex 360 groove base with appropriate ones missing for software to read

Got thinking as this fell into my hands from either a Focus or Mondeo taken out of circulation because nobody could supply an accelerator cable - so, it got the snip There is no room to tack a trigger wheel before or after my EA82T crank pulley, and be a bitch to set up, secure a sensor.... What about mounting a sensor securely, out of harm's way on the bell housing, reading off Fuji's timing mark location - the flywheel ! You know, drill a 6 mm hole in bell housing, set engine to TDC#1 drill further, squarely into flywheel. Set engine to timing reference of say keep it to Fuji's 20° BTDC on #1 , drill again into flywheel Then you'd need some clever than me to CNC machine the 36 teeth or grooves into flywheel taking into account location if drilled holes... sort of thing enlarge hole first made in flywheel to fit crank angle sensor.

Just bumping this for a later discussion

Anyone help with a diagram photo from the US version of the first EA82T RX Engine Section 2 Fuel injection system Troubleshooting Wiring diagram of knock control system I have the non US edition for KCM-23 US West Coast at least used KCM-24 And there is a wiring difference !! Pin #8 is in use in the US RX, rather fat Red with Green trace Just does not feature on my manual for much the rest of the world ..

Anyone understand the code used in FSM for such things in wiring electrical Above a sketch is (MIC-9) I think Male Inline Connector 9 pins? It sounds right description of the diagram drawing wise But the diagram showing the actual layout of the corresponding plug is (MIC-9M) A round connector plug (ECJ-8F) It has 8 pins in total And they be Female Circular plug But at Check Connector III (MIC-17F) I think we're Female Yes 17 pin size plug Inline Connector just two rows Then the Yellow wire at coil negative is (LA105) no dash between alpha and numeric. Same at Engine Ground Another check terminal in the loom is a single , white, female, plastic has (MCA-1F) At the two wire knock sensor is a Circular plug (ECJ-2) Circular and 2 wire Should not have C for Circular if C is for Connector so think both incorrect Might be one for General Disorder??

Hey ABA, what aspect interests you? I have done the EA82 struts into EA81 if that is where queries lies

RETENSION THE HEAD GASKET AFTER FIRST OPERATING TEMP REACHED WITH OVERNIGHT COOL DOWN ANY QUESTIONS AS TO WHY AND HOW DO NOT HESITATE TO ASK

Absolutely no problem at all with our latest Subie addict Ricky. The internet allows all sorts of dodgy suggestions for fixes i have also been guilty of sometimes lacking straight forward expression and instruction , and only ever one straddling rocker on a front cylinder on the RHS - I could never forget . You only do it once,so welcome to that club. It was easy fixed, no parts harmed, no parts required. But hang on, didn't you take this problem to a mechanic shop and they, the qualified, experienced and practising mechanics not find it ? If so, you may have learnec a new confidence in your skills and perseverance

OP told us it was unknown rebuild Swear Step-a-toe suggested to look for rocker straddling things in your other post It's OK, breath and text us cheap so, a compression test again and tell us you have fixed it

And I reckon I fluked it in one respect, getting the Series One for transplant into propane recipient Ditched all EFI stuff and just used the KCM for Dizzy's knock control

Thought it odd. My manuals cater for LHD as well as RHD, Saudi Arabia, Switzerland etc Here in Aus we saw Landcruisers and beasts in same category off roadable, rural property owner style run EFI without O2 sensor but I guess their thirst was a reason why many went to dual fuel with propane conversions - making the job one wire easier and not have to run electronic fuel adjustment controls

In my FSM for 85,86 turbos, flapper style, the part on the O2 sensor says "Australia Only" - as if to suggest all other markets did not use one Am I correct? Don't seem right...

The brackets for mounting at the top of XT4 radiator have an angle to them, maybe could be cut off or modded to fit, Or added to to make std twin core fit XT Have you found twin core? I use an EA81 std twin core in front of EA82T in Brumby I did once start to fit an XT single core into EA81 Brumby body

SPFi I assume? Maybe someone confirm the door chime is not generated by any connection to ECU? Similar time period might be common across timer circuits for all sorts of things You are deductive for taking pump prime time and operation into account Drop the ecu from underside of steering column to reveal fuel pump and ignition relays just above? Look like anyone been doing their own fixes in their with odd colour or clean fresh looking insulting tape? Now you parted with money, maybe call seller to see if he/she can add any further light, advise if they knew only belts, or were told? Previous workshop contact? Fuel pump remaining on all the time... You mean IGN on, pump on until IGN off? Really only a safety issue, not a running issue but evidence something is not as we would expect. The fuel pump relay may have been rigged directly to IGN on to fix an ecu or wiring fault. Don't let stuff trick you unnecessarily Basics....compression test each cylinder, IGN and fuel pump fuse pulled, acc pedal to floor each cylinder checked

heard it , sort of that way the first time i have some bolts somewhere I could measure up.. but may be useless to your individual application

You have four wires you can see remains of ?! The early EA82 MPFi used only two as it was TP Switch The hotwire maf ones went to three. Even my modern after market race TPSensor on mine is still only three wires SPFi yours??

On first issue, just seeing your query in a different light. Were you concerned that some threads still remained above threaded parts surface when you fully screwed in? Coolant levelling question...jack vehicle front up a foot higher at front - any change? Time frame for initial coolant level to be found? If horseshoe seal leaking, coolant will run down to cylinders, so look in plug holes Some have even made one corner of car highest point. Front left, to bleed air

The basis I used was my own GLTA original pump at age 20 liked a gentle belt from a hammer to get him going better pressure in the morning and ran fine each time until next morning again. This pump in the Vortex must have just been a little stuck and needed a nudge, with resulting operation cleaning up components I think so long as common sense is in use with correct fuel and electrical hook up, should be no safety concerns Factory correct pump inlet being 12mm needs adapting to engine bay 8 mm Just a bit unfair on front pump to pull fuel through dud rear pump. Still, think I prefer an underbody mounted pump to one accessed by interior seat and panel removal found on many of today's cars with intank pumps

If a fuel pump fails , has anyone tried another pump mounted up in the engine bay? I recall getting a mates turbo Vortex going by grubbing up a spare old Subie fuel pump up front - and boy ! dormant for 20 years and fully serviced before storage - did she sound sweet !! I cannot recall if I ran a fuel supply up front or front pump pulled fuel from the tank. But, you know, once she ran, the factory pump remembered what it was and continued to run the sweet ride on its own - even for its next voyage when a private museum collector bought her and her sisters, trucking the sisters, and choosing to drive the sweetie 1200 KMs to her new home So, wondering if anyone has used a front pump as an emergency roadside fix......

An emergency fix where a relay may have done the job

Ok, think I get it, you see thread in the hole to a certain depth but you found bolt won't run to the end of this thread? Plug tap M8 1.25 pitch to clean threads up? I admire your end of the spectrum of checking stuff. At the other end of another spectrum, we have guys with dirt floors, stirring up dust as they work

Finally ! Someone includes some measurements ! Dunno where you read that on bolt length problems. Most will be about threads fusing between head and bolt, or bolt shank corroding to Billy oh! fusing to inlet manifold On rebuilds I have used Teflon tape on shank where manifold contact can be. Also just kept going with copper grease on threads and up shank If heads shaved most likely need to enlarge hole dia in manifold for these bolts or they won't go in nice and square. I feel the larger dia hole gives better air gap to reduce corrosion occuring again for some time

Well, I was right on suggesting new inlet gaskets Seller was on the ball pulling manifold !

I find corrosion can travel down the aluminium power cable strands. Swap starter??