Step-a-toe

Break at least two of the inlet manifold to head bolts, usually outer one each side and replace inlet manifold gaskets with genuine . Replace genuine hose between block and inlet below carby Nice cradle !!

Oil leaks got worse over the past YEAR ?! Even a Subaru will go pop eventually with that level of TLC

Not read much on this sort of thing for years, but after dabbling with a fuel controller tapping into the EA82T options of Throttle Position Switch 85&86, and Throttle Position Sensor 87 on , I used an aftermarket sensor to give controller the required input. Try search function care of Google, gives better results than in house thing

Measured the Express bars nuts with a crude, plastic vernier ~27 mm I have this project nagging at me from the wallet pocket... For what wreckers want for a pair of Express bars I can buy three new tyres. I reckon drill the front hole, cut off the excess taking out part of the hole, grind excess piece to match up complete hole and weld it in place So much less stuffing about for wheel alignments with adjustment over washers and packers

This was helpful, thanks I may actually have an EJ201 as it was fitted to RX sedan GC8. Mine is out of GF8 (wagon) RX Another of life's mysteries resolved, almost

I know zip but like your style. BuMp !

If in doubt, plug em all off for starters - I do Not seen the horizontal one #3 beside EGR mount before. EA82 if you said plural cam One of those vacuums must feed the plastic vacuum reservoir up near strut tower that feeds the dash control switches. Most others look to be carb and pollution related or cold start assist things that 38/38 don't got

skishop, you do have things thought out don't you? Ahead of me. I seem to recall that some bushes maybe EA82 have lips to kiss each other in the hole of the rear bracket. I think the hole is OK diameter for 18 mm thread Gonna have another look at the Express van item. I know many others have used washer spacers and our roads are not a precise science so FWA really can't be that fussy !

Skishop to the rescue once again Been thinking just that, then found them listed but had troubles getting a price to believe posted down under. My email resulted in the items vanishing and a sorry email Have access to a dirty old press, an oxy etc Thinking to make up a jig to squash the flat end down to 10 mm with some 10 mm bar either side of rod while under press plates Dont see a need to replicate the factory size thread so just hope to find a thread size to suit the 18.2? mm bar Dreaming at this stage....

Well, an update on thoughts of using these strut rods as you guys call them, on the Mitsu Express or L300 vans Our EAs have 40 mm centres between bolt holes Mutsu 56mm I tried drilling a 12 mm hole at 40 mm centre from rear most hole but it cuts into the existing front hole on its edge Not using actual rod, not using any CAD software either - just a piece of scrap Then considered drilling a new set of 40 mm ctr to ctr holes at 12 mm diameter, straddling the rear most Mitsu hole, cut off the front Mitsu hole This may still work.... EA81 radius rod measure from end of thread to rear hole centre ~410 mm Difficult to measure the Mitsu on the street but getting a rough 425 from end of its thread to centre of rear hole, so to make a new rear 12 mm hole, gain some adjustments forward, makes new hole too close to old Mitsu hole, not gonna gain anything except that in original EA81 form, there is a lot of thread once but is done up at the back end, so maybe if new holes safely made up front, use up the threaded rear for adjuster nuts it might work.... As I type (slowly) starting to think it will work safely enough to use rear Mitsu hole, make new hole 40 mm centres forward, just busting into front Mitsu hole, shove 12 mm alloy rod in hole and weld up the steel around it, cut excess and use a good broard washer up top of front. Subaru rod 17 mm Mitsu rod 20mm with threaded section 18 mm across the thread pitches so think the EA81 bushes will fit the 18 mm threads with a squeeze

Lengthwise an EA81 radius rod is about 8 mm where it counts . Maybe those putting big boots in EA82 can push wheel forward enough to make a difference?

Often see references to an EJs fifth identification character I understand EG20G is turbo EA82T was simple Thought I invented the EA82M - M is for Mongrel i have an AUDM Impreza's EJ20 How do I identify what its fifth character is? Also have a basket case EJ22 from about 93 Liberty stored in a crate for one day aka as Steptoe

I use gravity to line up little end with piston hole on EA series Sit block face down on bench , hopefully that bench is dead level

That was handy, thanks Mr Bennie I need to look down the CAS aperture to see what I have , suspect it is that 5 fingered thing in the GF8 s EJ20 And definitely the EJ20 sitting in a box Asked a fella today about chance to score 36-2-2-2 sprocket today, sounds more promising than the other Subie fanatical mechanic on Monday

It is....also reset my photo upload limit back to zero

Can anyone educate me on the Subaru crank trigger wheel of 36-2-2-2 that speedyefi systems can make use of please? Formerly known as Steptoe until got signed out, forgot password, reset password did not work ....

did anyone above suggest one position in the 360 degrees may be easier to get the rocker thing back in ? I stuffed things up on one assembly done in car, and found the rocker was straddling where it was supposed to be found it before starting thank Fuji ! Did it from the underside and a tyre lever helped squish a spring/valve in from memory, succcess... ohh, get pair of cams unless Delta can supply exact match of what you have on other side , or could be a weird engine : >

yeah, as Bennie says, if you picture up what you have, makes it easier for us to help rather hinder you with wrong info. Some of us don't know precisely what a Loyale is supposed to be, with options of carb, spfi, mpfi and mpfi turbo