Step-a-toe

My thoughts on seeing no change, no improvement on running with CTS disconnected said to me this could be suspect. Funny how we all see things differently. Good move in ordering new, reasonably priced part before diving in elsewhere - causing more issues

Bennie is correct Dinky. Special interest cars- generally. Although some internationals coming to live here for work sometimes bring their LHD cars in that are only special to them and not many others. 2008 also propped up our stocks of LHD imports as cashed up aussies took advantage of those in the US selling up toys and the nice exchange rate of the day. Special interest that i got to drive around the block was a Mach variant of about '69 Mustang with a 390. More humdrum was just a gen 2 , i think, Legacy, that said it was made in the USA - Indiana. I should have just tried driving it on our wrong side to see if i felt more comfortable in relation to the road's centre line markings !! Word is that the US used to have the tiller on the right to begin with, unsure if that was also drive RHS

i wonder if you could remove 3-5 mm off the end of the throttle shaft to allow easy on - off for future tinkering?

so, an update would help

now, this time, for the second time , renewing my password, I have emailed myself the password. Will have to do same for AUSubaru too ! So, did Frog come up with a cable Bennie?

High time for me to reset my password in order to get back in here after device change . 87 is flat manifold ? How is the (hard as ) rubber air transfer hose from above the thermostat housing to inlet manifold? If you have one The 25 DBTDC is interesting, as all our Oz turbo EA82 are 20 according to bonnet sticker and manuals. I say easier to resolve this than EJ it Did you check the coolant transfer casting internals when you had it off, and replace the tiny welsh/freeze plugs you see when it removed? Those little bastards rot after 20 years

Stars aligned today Scott Genuine order from the dealer but I hear that these cables are now not available

I would suggest the HP rating was tested in Japan , so a like for like comparo. Which EA82T are you comparing, S1, S2 or the spider? With S1 , my manuals had different specs for the TB cut in points of the TPSwitch for the euro or arabian market compared to Australia. S2 onwards had a TPSensor. Who remembers the weird cylinder heads someone sold out of Germany? I think nncoolg bought them for his Aussie Vortex

You know what Steptoe would try here?? The FPR vacuum line, suspecting fuel leaking from FPR to intake via the vacuum line....find a small, clear, hard acrylic fuel filter used for small engines and fit it in line in the vacuum line. You will need to sleeve tubes to make it work and hold vacuum for sure, but you should be able to monitor any fuel loss

?? Everyone gone to fb? No worries. I will keep talking to myself as it does help. The WP flange has just a few mm to play with to press it closer the the body, so that is one idea resolved. Talking to an electronics engineer while looking under the Vortex bonnet, he suggested to use the 5PK multi rib style pulley system as in the Vortex. He was saying mainly due to his experiences in them generally being a better, more reliable belt system. From my perspective, I thought it would mean chasing all the bits up, but with the cast iron solid WP pulley, I could get the required excess machined off the front, in order to clear the teeth of the trigger wheel. I just need to see if I can swap the alternator pulley from 1V to multi rib and have it also line up correctly

has anyone encountered alternative water pump pulley a, say a Nissan item, that shares same diameter, b9lt pattern, offset - just as a single V pulley? All I have I think, are double V pulleys. what an amazing standard of metal origami it is too. They must have started out as flat sheet metal and been pressed with such force and accuracy to come out the way they have. The multi rib ones are cast or machined rather than pressed plate. ideally I am after a pulley to run the inner line of belt only, and not even have the front pulley, for my plan is to run an edis 36-1 crank trigger on the front of my crank pulley - machined lip to run it flush. Many years ago someone ran their crank trigger on the rear V, cutting the rear V off the water pump pulley for clearance. The drive flow for the rear V of WP pulley must come from the front, so cannot cut or reduce the front V. Those that know these WP might recall two deck heights of the WP flange, 105 and 110 I think the 105 is for the thicker mounting boss of the solid 5PK multi rib flat belt WP pulley. I may have enough WP shaft to press the flange down to maybe a deck height of 80 mm say, and mount the front half of a pressed 2V pulley, rear V removed to achieve my objective. Why not duplicate original edis conversion? i am having trouble seeing the pick up VR mounting correctly so close to TB covers ( in my head visually I recall seeing rear pulley near rub on these covers)

Been monitoring for a decade , having first used a panel analogue needle display, then an LCD display, now a red LED digital display. The unit requires a power and earth connection then the input from the Series One and possibly the EA81T is the same...black/white wire at coil with white plastic female test connector, so usually seen doing nothing The interactive experience is something being engineered out of cars these days. With this I can hear pinging, look down to see reader is higher than its nominal cruise voltage of ~1.7V. If pushed hard enough I can hear the pinging, feel the timing being retarded and see the higher reading. Brain then tells right foot to back off a bit ..

Some feel a drawback is just that! Drawing dirty exhausting back into the clean, filtered environment of an intake manifold can often display choked up to blocked passages and/or a carbon trail on the intake tract.

Knock circuit ! Must be the time for it. I run a monitor on mine , Voltage reader in dash from diagnostic wire. Thought baby was a little retarded at times, noticed reader indicating knock - reading 2-4V just off idle. I disconnected whole thing at dizzy ( as you can with Series One ) and just keep revs below 5000 and all fine. With previous FWD set up, different engine , still Series One, I never heard knock even with added boost

Good to see you keep at it turbo dog, it will make you a better person when you find it and fix it. It does take a bit to punch out non-boxer firing order out of memory. I visualise it as firing front to back, swap sides, front to back.

*cough* Bennie, next post

Just thinking back to the days when I disconnected the coolant entirely from my Australian designed Ford six 250 2V heads inlet manifold. I also painted the alloy manifold a matte white to deflect radiant heat

Fragile?? This is the EA81 not the EA82 ??

And follow up ? Get the pulley yet? Compression test, always number one thing to do and start from there, then follow the fuel and spark trail

Certainly internally proud of self for monitoring my EA82T knock control circuit the past 200,000 km. Simply by finding a Volt display capable of reading zero volts. I found one making the claim, now seller has revised the range. In dash reading displays from ~1.7 - 4.5V depending on what the two pin sensor is reporting. Just the other day I noticed readings higher than its happy 17 yet with only light load. It should not budge until revs are up and I squeeze the loud pedal a bit. I am yet to investigate the cause but have disconnected the big fat and black round connector and she runs better ( in my head?) I have run these Series Ones before with the KCM connector accidentally disconnected for months with no hint of adverse performance

With a car this old, surely you are doing the environment some good by not choosing a new car and all the negatives of manufacturing it with environmental impact in mind. This alone should allow some leeway with other things such as cat or no cat

Get yourself spare fuel filters for both ends. Depending on your curiosity you might just change them again in either the recommended distance or time period, or just to monitor the situation.

Nobody has asked which EFI you ask about. The EA82 has three basic efi set ups and the parts manual lists 20 different ECU part numbers ! Are you asking of single or twin intake ports per head?

Just thinking back to the about to be convicted peadophile I met with an EJ converted EA81. The installer drill holes all over the radiator panel in an effort to get more air around the EJ turbo , for it was their opinion there is a lot of heat in there that needs to get out. EJ ain't always the be all and end all. GO the EA82 !!

But it looks different and impressive !!