Step-a-toe

Two fuel filters, one front, one near pump in most EA81 carby models. Fuel hoses have been found to break down internally. I also have, and many others, had to use compressed air to blow out the steel fuel lines, section by section. The final section into the tank was my culprit. Rusty crud like nothing else blew into the empty tank. Cleaned out from sender hole with rag on long piece of wire

I learnt a US gallon was 4.000 litres. Found Costco gallon of apple juice was 3.890 litres. Our gallon in Australia was 4.546 litres. Which gallon are you using? City cycle is usually worse the greater your engine capacity in the 80s beasts. Fuel type in use? Black fumey film around tailpipe bodywork? Last real tune up? Fuel cleaner for injectors used in recent times?

I have done the opposite with all the time I have wasted tinkering with my EA82T ...exhaust is naked apart from rattly shield rotting away around the cat. I made heat shields for my right hand drive brake master and lines, also the firewall. Just an electric fan to get heat out if the engine bay whenever at standstill should help. I am of same ilk ...yet to appreciate EJ conversion. Not expect power gains, just reliability and pleasure to drive. WHUMP !! GD just fell off his seat !! I agree with GD suggesting if want EJ buy cheap EJ powered from factory. Same sort of lines, I like EA body, will stick with simpler EA engines

Thanks for coming back in with the YouTube and detailed, easy to understand post ! I have both this, the Series 2 in my Vortex and Series One in my Brumby. Series One did not get the WGDS thank Fuji. I did find though, to add a very basic boost controller with spring, ball and tiny bleed off hole gave crisper control of boost on , seems to over ride the old factory components whether I use 8 or 12 psi . 12 has been hard on the exhaust gaskets between head and turbo manifold : sad face :

What if you were to measure any power gains on a stone cold engine and continue through to operating temp? Wouldn't that represent any possible gains? A clever fellow down under found that with propane as the fuel, he could tune more power out of an engine that got an intake air temp of 82°C ! This in turn created the need for better approach to cooling, so he worked on case by case water pump tolerances, cavitation elimination and made an inline thermostat housing for the bottom radiator hose. This housing incorporated recirculating yet to go through radiator coolant, through engine block again! He is a Victorian, last name Robinson ? I have read short magazine article on his work in the 80s. Also seen his thermostat housing fitted to a Leyland P76 V8 , though never talked to owner about what extent of tune it had. My most recent net search on this fellow was his award winning design for efficiency and emissions of a buildings diesel power generation system

Never seen anything but standard cooling on these but I had thought of a trans cooler before the turbo , not after as suggested. I do not have issues at all. Not even mountain pass climbs at 40° C days. Twin electric fans and the Brumby twin core does an excellent job. I do like your thinking. In cold climates you could plumb in an extra heater core from the turbo

Yep. Big fan of not rushing things here. Clean up and new grease. Very hard to get back in there if things go wrong

Can. You. Install. A. Boost. Gauge. ? To. Use. As. A. Diagnostic. Tool

Seems to over boost.... Some numbers would be beneficial It is interesting to hear pinging just before feeling knock circuit cut in as I see my knock control monitor reading. If yours was a Series One flapper, you could *cough* disconnect over boost solenoid to see if it is your problem

I met a fella today to look at his stash of mostly Gen1 parts his late father gave him to sell. Nearly each piece is still in genuine packaging , most with part numbers. Such random pieces. Such as two sets of station wagon upper tail and indicator lenses. New, just no packaging. Few shift forks. Clutch fork boot. Front strut repair pieces including bottle of oil. Various needle rollers for gearbox. Five speed gear knob but maybe it is GL5 Gen 2. Odd little clips. Two genuine water pumps that I don't know , have mild steel plate screwed on rear. This stuff is for sale. He is a busy lad with a young family and will try to find time to make a parts list. He has found a website giving him Subaru full details as a guide. If we stay in touch I can list stuff up here. All small parts and packets so should be manageable to post

It might help if you as a photo of your bits, clean, seperated so people can help. Maybe numbered tags?

Trace all wires from the three plugs that plug to ecu to see if any concern found ?

I may sometimes use copper grease as an anti sieze agent. Grease used to be sometimes used to help seal new head gaskets. Soap or clay based grease I can't say. I guess copper grease can act as a sealant on threads. I can't recall if any water pump bolts go through to coolant. Your leak is more component jointing than out threads?

So, could you summarise the five or so pages into one short post now please (wink) ? Ok it seemed like five or more pages...

You should be required to declare this fact each time you suggest EJ implant

Not having done it or even seen an XT6 but you source XT6 5 stud rear disc brakes I believe. Always seems to be an XT6 for sale NOT ANYWHERE near me or Bennie

Oh, ok optical dizzy .... Been meaning to sort the rotor retaining screw as a Allen head M5 0.8mm pitch, 16 mm length ...scratch that to memory jonno And a woohoo for it now starting to sound positive. No badge yet for length of time to sort things. Think I hold one for five months !

I will say no. Really need to match part numbers What is on yours ?

Car .....as in year, engine, fuel system such as carb or Spfi, mpfi. I have come across this problem but cannot recall what was the cause but I think it was in the ignition barrel electrical connection integrity

May help to add the finer details of car

Seen bad leads make some other makes tacho bounce and carry on. NewHT lead fixed

vote? Who said vote ?? I got up on front stands and pulled left gearbox mount out due to it being the easiest. All good. Filled its voids with a Sikaflex product and put back in. Closer inspection reveals the left engine mount appears to have let go below the plate off block. Think this will be stands on rails under engine b & t, drop cross member to lowest nut position and a few swear words

Not interswappable

While tinkering with Impreza tailshaft I found 2009? Mitsubishi RWD not 4WD Triton ute in Australia uses a cheap centre bearing in a carrier that should work with EJ size bearings, just you'd need to make carrier brackets fit, but after that - readily available swap in bits if you had Impreza tailshaft

As GD says, yes. I reckon it is the only way to do this job for best results. And yes on reuse timing belt housings to preserve cat and possum tails from skipping the belts. I would fear getting a flock of massive hoppers stuck between belt and cogs when least need a belt skip