G3.Spiffy

Much appreciated, this will help a lot!! Enjoy the rest of your day

I’ve searched around for days now and I can’t seem to find the famous 2.2 swap write up by Numbchux. Everyone says it’s a very useful resource, and I’d like to give it a read in preparation for a swap into my older wagon. I found one thread specifically on here that had a direct link posted my Numbchux himself, but it was years old and now only leads to a blank page. Any links or help locating the write up or any similar would be appreciated! Also, any tips on how to use the search on here more effectively? I struggle to find what I’m looking for a lot of the time

That’s sick! A lot more comprehensive than the little booklet I’ve got. Thanks for the share

I’ve had people tell me in the past that there’s an option to select size when adding an attachment from camera roll, and I’ve seen this before on another device so I know it’s there, but it’s not there on the phone I predominantly use so I had to download a file size compression app and it did the trick for me

My recently purchased project had some original paperwork in it that I feel is worth sharing on here as I haven’t seen it pictured anywhere before

It looks that way to me unfortunately. Does anyone else know if there is any compatibility beyond mechanical?

All for 1974 GL Coupe, LHD US spec 1. Rear quarter panel to weld in (passenger) 2. Windshield and gasket (front) 3. Rolling window (passenger) 4. Center console with or without armrest 5. Headlight trim ring and back mounting bracket 6. Taillight lens and trim (passenger) 7. License plate light plastic cover 8. Front and rear JDM spec bumpers 9. Front combination lights for under JDM bumper 10. GSR airdam or cast to recreate one from 11. Rear view mirror 12. Sun visor (driver) 13. Ashtray face plate for seatback tray 14. Factory optional rear sun louver 15. Factory optional roof luggage rack 16. Factory optional front panel guard 17. Any body related weather seals, grommets, etc 18. Gas filler cap 19. Dome light cover 20. Gas pedal foot pad 21. Fender mounted mirrors I understand that a lot of these items are next to impossible to locate, so I’m posting this with pretty low expectations for things like the airdam, JDM spec parts, and factory options. The list may grow as I get farther into my project, and I have some driveline components that I may be willing to trade with or sell as well. If you have other parts that will fit this vehicle, let me know what you have, I’ll consider anything.

I recently picked up a ‘74 GL Coupe that has a solid crack in the windshield, and is completely missing the passenger rolling window. If anyone has one that they’ll sell or know someone who does, I’d appreciate it greatly!! Also looking for passenger side taillight components (red plastic lens and chrome trim), the plastic shielding for the license plate lights, and the silver trim ring that goes around the headlight. I’d also love to find an original center console unit with or without the armrest, but can fabricate something if not. Thanks!!

Sorry for the delayed response, I’m having trouble posting photos due to the 2MB limit. Any advice? Drove from the CA Bay Area to Sedona AZ and picked up the car. It’s mostly complete in terms of what I care about. Only things that are missing on the body/interior are the center console piece that has the armrest, the rear view mirror (no big deal at this point. I can find something to stick up there that’s close enough) the drivers side sun visor, the radio unit, the circular trim that goes around the headlight on one side, and I think that’s it. The list grows as I take it apart further and further. Considering the condition of the car, there’s more present than I expected. The engine is missing the top end (intake and up) but the rest of the drivetrain is there. Front discs, indoor gas tank, manual transmission. I’m planning to redo the entire drivetrain with a more modern EJ series setup from a pre DBW vehicle so I’m not too concerned about those things. My first task is the body, as it has its share of damage and a little rust. I’m calling this the restoration stage, which will be everything until the point of modifying and fabricating things to make the car drive again. I’d like to get my hands on a left rear quarter panel to weld in if possible, but understand that’s unlikely, but the rest I feel will fix up pretty easily. Will post photos once I figure out how

I’m going to be looking at a 2 door ‘74 GL on Tuesday that the owner claims is 98% complete, and would like to know anything specific to this vehicle that I should look out for good or bad. I figure most of you have more experience than me, given that I have almost none with any subies older than ‘86. I’m also curious about parts swapping between designations GL, DL, GS, and GSR for different years if anyone has knowledge of that Thank you for the help!

At this point in my build I don’t think that would be practical for me, especially considering I have zero experience in tuning or with stand-alone systems Once I have a better understanding of those systems I can see how it would be very beneficial, and will keep it in mind for the future!

Awesome! I have complete sets of both the 1986 and 1990 FSMs, so I have their “ideal” values, but real world data is exponentially more useful imo!! Glad to have this for future reference

So, I just finished my CTS testing. I was unable to find where you previously posted “normal” values for this specific test, but based on the numbers I got I think my CTS is fine. Results are as follows: Tested resistance before starting the car, totally cold, just to cross-reference the value with the FSM value for 68°F, which is about the temp it is out in the morning. Value was 2.454 kOhms, which is dead center of the FSM range. Ran the car until warm, turned it off and immediately tested resistance: 320.85 Ohms 10min: 0.401 kOhms 20min: 0.498 kOhms 30min: 0.584 kOhms 40min: 0.671 kOhms 50min: 0.762 kOhms 60min: 0.849 kOhms Probably could’ve stopped here, but wanted to be absolutely sure 70min: 0.934 kOhms 80min: 1.013 kOhms 90min: 1.134 kOhms Assuming these values are normal (as previously stated, I can’t locate the thread with proper values posted in it), would the next logical thing to test be my fuel pressure under different conditions (upon startup, warm up, driving, asking a lot of the car, going up an incline, etc)?

Nice! It would definitely be a useful (although highly specific) tool to have at your disposal

Thanks, on to the testing portion I’d love to have a better view of what’s going on at any given time as well, but the trouble with that for me is where to put aftermarket gauges... I’m too in love with the OEM styling of the car so would need to make a portable one for diagnostic purposes. Willingness to modify the car beyond stock is a hard one for me

Just to clarify, the CTS is the two wire one with the green connector that’s by the thermostat correct? The one wire one by it is the signal for the temp gauge and the one on the rad is for the fan relay?

I haven’t taken my CTS out for testing yet, but unplugged it while the car was still cold and after it was up to temp. There was no change in the car’s behavior while parked, which surprised me. Is there any way to test the CTS in place or should I just suck it up and get all science-y with my known temp water?

Decided to blow a little compressed air through the drippy canister while I have it out and it blew fuel all over. Definitely what’s causing the dripping. Swapped in my spare canister (which is in fact much lighter) and ran the car until warm and had zero drippage!!

There are a total of three hoses coming from the drivers side firewall. Fuel supply from the pump, fuel return from the FPR to the tank, and the fuel evap line that goes from the fuel separator to the charcoal canister. I’ve pulled all these and made absolutely sure that they act as they should. I pulled supply first, and there was pressurized fuel in there. Put it in a bottle just to see if it pushed fuel upon prime and it did. Plugged that one back in and pulled the return hose then started the car for a second and it was getting lower pressure fuel coming through it. Then pulled the evap hose and it had no apparent signs of fuel.

Aside from that, I’m going to test my CTS to see if that’s causing my drivability issues and purchase both a fuel and vacuum test set. I know it’ll be handy

I understand. Went and plugged the lines which go to the throttle body and the purge solenoid, and put the line from the tank to the canister into a clear bottle, ran the car for a while without driving load and had absolutely no fuel in the bottle. This has me convinced that the fuel I’ve been seeing on the ground is just residual fuel from when I hooked the fuel lines up wrong initially that’s still inside my canister. I’m going to swap in an extra canister and see if the drip goes away.

Unfortunately I do need it for inspection purposes, but am not opposed to a temporary delete to see if it fixes my issue. What do I do with the other line( gas tank to canister)? Cap it as well? I’ll check my CTS next time I’m out working on it

That clears some things up for me, thank you. CTS and fuel pressure testing are at the top of my list. I’ve heard of people deleting purge and EGR systems and am curious if deleting them temporarily would let me know for sure if my issue lies with one of those systems, and if so, how would I go about that? Just plug the lines that go to each system at their extremities? There has been a decent amount of fuel coming from the hose at the bottom of the charcoal canister intermittently (more-so when driving), and it seems like it’s abnormal to me. To test this I removed my charcoal canister and plugged the vacuum line, put the input hose (fuel separator to canister) into a clear bottle to track its fuel output, and plugged the line that goes from the canister to the purge solenoid. Ran the car for a while (parked) and there wasn’t ANY fuel in the bottle, which is the opposite of what I expected. I have another charcoal canister laying around that I can swap in to see if it changes anything. Considering that I pumped high pressure fuel into the one that’s currently in it, I don’t think it could hurt. My dad thinks the canister is heavier than it should be as well, which made me consider that there could still me fuel in it from my routing mishap that’s just cycling out of it and that’s what I’m seeing on the ground. Still doesn’t explain the drivability issues to me but could be unrelated

So I just went and started up my dads 92 spfi wagon and it does the same thing with the brake stutter. I’m gonna assume it to be a slow reaction to a change in vacuum and keep troubleshooting my drivability and fuel dripping issues for now