573417h

Hi, I suspect a sensor could be incorrect, IE injector plug on CAS or similar. however, since you have indicated fuel I'd start there: - Ensure there is enough petrol and if in doubt put another 20L into it... then check to see if petrol is getting to the rail/front filter, if it is you can assume its not petrol related If its not... then hardwire the pump at the plug to a battery to see if its pumping etc, then you can start eliminating things that make the pump run ie wiring/relays. If it has fuel getting all the way to the rail/filter, then id check if it has spark, if it doesn't have spark then you can start trying to figure that why. If it has spark and fuel, then id compression test it and go from there....

Yea im building this one properly as it might be the only one in NZ.... Im also doing an ea81 wagon (Not sure what series these are called) but its more of fix the rust every 6 months to keep it on the road. I have it documented on another local site if anyone wants a link - not sure about forum etiquette around cross posting.

Once it comes back from the sandblasters i will take a heap of photos and share them here. Ill also document all the repairs i suspect this will take me a few years to complete.

Front wing pic

Once its back from the blaster ill know more, but initial inspections show rust requiring repairs: -top of front right wing (where the guard bolts too) - both water drains under the scuttle panel into the guard are fully gone - front firewall flat panel, around where the fuel line comes thru,and one the front right part of the firewall where the brake master sits - Front/mid floor pan already has patches done and we will unstitch the entire floor and rebuild - as chassis rails has some dints requiring removal - rear wagon floor near end /latch is looking pretty thin and likely need replacement - very minor (at this stage) in the gutters on the right side. A couple of pics from earlier in the piece:

Car has been fully stripped and is now at the sandblaster, can't wait to get it back and get a plan in place for all the repairs

Hi Bennie, Haven't tried cleaning it yet, might give it a whirl to see how bad it is, it will likely be much cheaper to grab a 2.0 block and build something from there. Cheers

Spoke to the guy this AM, he doesn't want it back and we have come to an arrangement on price, i doubt this block is savable, but id be keen to hear any (even rough barstar* type) fixes

I haven't pulled the head off the other side yet, and don't think I'm going to, guy wants the motor back to give me a full refund and then he is going to dump it which is sort of annoying as i need the heads and intake as i could just slap them onto another EJx motor, but at the end of the day if that's what gets my money back I'm ok with that. I'm based in New Zealand, so these motors are kind of a rarity, but finding a dohc turbo EJ is dime a dozen. Shame our govt rules on modding a chassis is a lot harsher than putting a late model motor in. I'll keep my eyes out as i was quite excited about getting this one in the engine bay etc.

after sleeping on it i decided to put a magnet into the bore and some rusty stuff came out of one of the spark plug holes, so whipped that head off... its not great news.. its locking on a thick layer of rust, guess im getting a refund.

Hey team, Got a motor 2nd hand Ej22 engine from a reputable source who drove the car before it was stored (this person will refund me should the engine be toast) and the engine is locking up when you turn it over, have pulled timing cover/belt/plugs and it spins freely for a bit then it hits a dead stop. My immediate thought was it skipped a tooth on the timing belt and it's locking up on a valve but since taking the timing belt off and turning the cams, however when the motor is in the locked position they still spin freely. Engine is sitting on the mounts, no gearbox etc to rule out anything with the clutch. Any other ideas where else i can check without pulling the engine to bits? - i thought maybe a bolt in the bore, although that is maybe a long stretch? Thanks in advance.

Bit of an update, car is fully stripped minus front/rear subframes and steering, is getting inspected hopefully this week or next (rust repair certificate as part of compliance) then it will be off to the blasters, and we will start whatever the inspector wants.

Damn that looks tuff! I have done the opposite to mine with a couple of inch drop haha, prolly no good offroad now lol

Very tidy, love the build.

This looks mean, get the SI subies together for a wee roady, was there any real boggy or difficult bits etc, or all just mainly gravel roads?

how much does it cost to refill a bottle?

Aquired this and plan to get back to original, might motor covert it later down the track....definatly want to track down a twin headlight front rather than the quad... but we will see what happens, have found a 2nd one, unsure if its for sale, need to do some digging on that still. Needs a fair bit of rust done, have started stripping it, currently have gutted the interior, and full loom etc, only have motor and glass to remove

Hi Team, As per above, just researching this topic a bit and am wondering if there are any physical difference in regard to mounts, shifter location etc, i have googled + image search to try and work it out but not getting much in a direct comparision. I suspect there will be a size difference but want to confirm. Thanks

Any updates to this build?

Wondering if this is still around at all? Has is survived?

do it lol

wheres the pics TTIUWOP LOL!

Hey mate im following the FB "build" (im the one requesting all the pics ) Looking at that manifold you might need a side draft style carb? so potentially a china 40mm is the go?

So is that a yes?

is it possible to get these rebuilt at all?