axgutt

So my wife and I both have '95 Legacy Wagons. She blew out a spark plug a few years ago with around 200,00 miles. Our mechanic was able to do a helicoil and it's been working great - now up to about 285,000 miles. Totally worth it. I blew out a spark plug a week or so ago, but mine has a little over 382,000 miles. It's the one closest to the driver, and apparently is more difficult to get to than whichever one my wife blew out. The mechanic doesn't think he can get to it without pulling the engine. Furthermore, after doing all of the recommended things (timing belt, pulleys, water pump, plugs, wires, etc.) at 180,000 miles, 240,000 miles, and 300,000 miles, I didn't get it done when I hit 360k. The tires now have about 100,000 miles on them, and will need to be replaced before winter comes. So, to get things where they should be, I'm looking at the $1500 range. And the car will still have 382,000 miles. It runs pretty well, but sometimes gets a bit rough until I run some seafoam through. Should I just get a 2005 wagon instead and start over? Adam

My 95 Legacy wagon has a little over 373,000 miles. As you might imagine, it burns a bit of oil, particularly when I rush to/from work by cruising at 75 - 80 on the interstate. I'll burn through two or three quarts of oil during a 3000 mile interval that way, but less than half that if I lighten my foot. My question is, when I'm pushing it and burning more oil, should I shorten or lengthen the interval, just replace the filter, etc? Part of me thinks that I'm effectively getting fresh oil and I should just change the filter. The other part of me thinks that's nuts and should change it all because there's probably bad stuff flowing through the system.

So I'm sitting on 359,000 miles with my 95 Legacy wagon, and for the first time I'm having trouble pulling the trigger on yet another timing belt, plugs, wires, etc. One half of my brain tells me this car will never die, and the other half says "Are you crazy? It could die at any minute!" My wife doesn't want me to do it - she thinks I should get something nicer - i.e. less than 1/3 of a million miles without dents and peeling paint. Her 95 Legacy Wagon only has about 270,000 miles on it but I think her replacement auto tranny will die before my car will (mine's a manual). To think I spent all of $2300 on this thing back in 2003 (and $2500 for hers back in 2005). I suspect there aren't too many Chrysler owners dealing with this sort of dilemma.

Pretty religiously every 3000 miles. I use Castrol High-Mileage, and typically Purolator filters, with an occasional Fram when I'm lazy. Usually I run 10 w 30. I typically burn through about a quart between changes - more if I run it hard.

My wife has a '95 automatic. We did have to have a transmission but in around 230,000 which hurt (about $1100 when all said and done). She now has 260,000 on it. We bought that one back in 2005 for $2500 with 130,000 miles on it.

Almost nothing. I bought it in 2003 with 174,000 miles for $2300. I had to get an exhaust hanger clip right away, which was really cheap - I think the sound it was making had scared people away. I've had 2 or 3 wheel bearings replaced, the clutch at around 275,000, a few O2 sensors, and I did a Seafoam treatment last year when I had a stuck exhaust valve. Other than that it's been normal wear and tear stuff - some brakes, lots of oil changes, three timing belts and related seals, a water pump with the second timing belt, some bulbs . . . that's about it. Needless to say I've been very, very spoiled by this car.

So I rolled into my garage after work with the odometer sitting on 350,003 miles (95 Legacy L wagon, 5 speed). I then check the mail and see that my DMV registration renewal has arrived. I have the option of renewing for one, two, or three years. Three years is tempting - I can save $5. That would get me through about 425,000 miles. Can't pull the trigger on that. One year at a time has served me well. I keep joking that this car will be my 5 year old's first car.

Congrats. I bought my 95 Legacy L 5-speed back in 2003. It had 174,000 miles on it. Today I hit 347,000. I had to do a clutch around 270,000, and a couple of axles and wheel bearings along the way. That's pretty much it except for scheduled maintenance and wear items - timing belts, fluid changes, plugs/wires, brakes, etc. I like to joke with my 5 year old that one day it will be hers. She wants a shiny gold convertible though. I prefer the faded green wagons. I wouldn't sweat the loose shifter. I had the bushing or spring done soon after I got it, and that only lasted a year or so. Now I almost don't even notice it.

The story was the car was being driven by their son who was going back to school on the other side of the mountain. About the time he got to the top of the mountain, it lost power and started sputtering. He drove it back home, (1 --- I'll be crossing the top of the mountain in about 45 minutes. I hope this doesn't jinx me!

It's all done. To get the hose out that went down to the engine I used a box cutter to make a slit in the bottom. This created a weakness in it and it snapped right off. Pushed on the new one, slid the two hose clamps on (which was a bit of a pain), put in the T connector, and hooked everything right back up. Breaking off the hose was a bit scary because I wasn't sure at first if the hose or the stud had broken. Thanks again to the group.

I work in C'ville - commute from Staunton - hence the 346k miles! I just stopped by and they had the hoses but had to order the connector. It should be here today or tomorrow. The parts lady (Donna?) was really nice - she even called Fisher's to see if they had the part I needed. Adam

Thanks for all the tips. I think I'll hit the dealer during lunch. @ Fairtax - To paraphrase their annoying jingle, "Brown, Brown, Brown, I hope I like the service." (That's the Sub dealer in C-ville). Adam

95 Legacy L, 2.2, 5 speed, 345k miles. So, I decided to swap out the PCV valve. When I was removing the hose connected to the PCV valve, it snapped the plastic T connector that connects it to the air intake and downward into the engine. I was able to remove the two hose clamps that are on the rubber hose going straight down into the engine (it's about 6 inches long and almost an inch in diameter). I can't get it out. The T connector at the top that snapped is pretty brittle and trying to pull it out just results in more pieces snapping off. What should I do? Should I try a box cutter to cut the hose lengthwise? Should I just break up the plastic pieces of the T connector and pull them out? Also, there's lots of gunk in this tube (shocker after so many miles), and a few small pieces of plastic have probably fallen through. Is this any worse than anything else floating around in there after so many miles?

I put in a Fumoto valve many years ago, and haven't touched a wrench when doing oil changes since. Less mess, and no skinned knuckles from slipping wrenches. It takes a little longer to drain, but I usually start it draining and go do something else for a while anyway. It's a whole lot easier to live with than wrenches, washers, splatter, etc. Adam

My wife and I both have 1995 Legacy L wagons, which have been great. Mine has 344k miles and hers has about 255k miles. We're thinking about selling mine, me taking hers, and getting her something newer. This does break my heart a bit as I was hoping to get mine up to 500k, but she says it looks too ratty (it's been hit by cars, deer, rocks, you name it). Baby #2 is on the way and it given the number of road trips we take we'd like to get something with lower miles. I like the body style of the wagons from 2005 - 2009. I know that nothing's as good as the 2.2, but which engine in the newer range is likely to be the most reliable - 2.5, 2.5 turbo, or H6? Power isn't a huge concern - we're used to 0-60 in 12 seconds or so. Needing premium gas would suck, but if it means potentially getting a few more years out of it, then it might be worth it.

Any driving tips? Should she accelerate more slowly, coast through turns, etc?The forecast (we're just over the mountain in Staunton) is pretty yucky for the next few days. She drives up and down the valley. I have to cross the mountain to Charlottesville. Our backup vehicle is a 2wd Tundra, which isn't the greatest in the slush.

My wife drives our 95 Legacy LS wagon, 2.2, AWD, automatic. She got a flat (front right) on a dark, no shoulder road the other night. (She's also pregnant and had our 5 year old in the car). She drove it about 1/2 mile to get to a lighted restaurant parking lot, and by then the tire was half unmounted. I drove there and put on her full-sized spare, in the cold, while she and my daughter ate pizza inside. (poor me). The car sat for a day, and she drove it just a few miles yesterday. Going up a hill under load she noticed a hard click coming from the front right. I looked at it this morning and the boot is torn right by the wheel. Two questions. 1. Could that have happened from the flat, or was it probably already torn? 2. The mechanic I totally trust is about 15 miles away. Am I risking anything else by driving it that far?

I saw that one - was all ready to go get a cashier's check from the credit union until I saw it was FWD. I cross the mountain every day, plus parts of Staunton make Charlottesville look like a pancake.

I'm not sure what kind of clutch was put in. At that point I had so many miles on it that if I had been given a choice, I probably would have taken the cheaper one. I couldn't find my receipt, but Quicken says the total bill was about $750. I haven't changed the tranny fluid since. I skipped it at 300k since it had only been 14k. So, the fluid has 55k. Checked the fluid level last night and it's right in the middle. Looked clear. @Fairtax - I hear you. I commute from Staunton to C'ville. I think the speed limit changes 3 times along the way.

So they just raised the speed limit on some of the sections of interstate that I drive (from 65 - 70). I have a 95 Legacy L wagon, 2.2, 5 speed manual, with 341,000. I used to just set the cruise control at 65, and everything was great. In the past when I would drive faster I would burn more oil (or force it out somewhere - who knows where it goes). Anyway, after a couple of weeks of driving faster, it seems to be getting harder to shift - i.e. pushing the stick into the different gears takes some effort now. I may also be getting a little more vibration/chatter when taking off. I was reading something about clutches and it said that when oil leaks from the rear main seal it can get into the clutch and cause problems. Is it possible that driving faster could be doing this, and if so, is there any chance it may rectify itself by driving slower? I purchased the car with 174,000 and had the clutch replaced at 286,000 (112,000 miles), so I'm usually a pretty smooth driver. Interstate miles obviously help. I did have the rear main seal replaced when the clutch was done.

When my wife's 95 Legacy LS was due for the 240,000 mile service interval, the tranny died. We replaced the tranny and put off the timing belt and other stuff to make sure our karma was good. We're at 253,000 miles now, and I want to make sure I get all the parts my mechanic will need. I read other threads and will be getting the master timing belt kit from the Import Experts which includes: (1) Timing Belt (1) Timing Belt Tensioner Bearing (2) Timing Belt Idler (1) Timing Belt Idler Sprocket (1) New OEM Water Pump (1) Water Pump Gasket (1) Valve Cover Gasket Kit (with Valve Cover Grommets) (2) Camshaft Seal Kits (with o'rings) (1) Front Crankshaft Seal (1) Oil Pump O'Ring (Crankcase O'Ring) (1) A/C Belt (1) Alternator Belt I just recently did the valve cover gaskets and the AC and Alternator belts, so I'll save those for my car (95 Legacy L with 341,000 miles). I plan to also replace the spark plugs and wires (genuine). What else should I replace? Also, she gets a small delay when turning the key before it starts. I read some other threads and it sounds like the starter contacts may be going bad. Does anyone have a part number for that? Thanks in advance.

I run Castrol High Mileage on both of our '95 Legacys. I also use Purolator filters - usually PureOne. My wife's has 250,000 miles, and mine has 340,000. No engine issues so far, except a stuck valve at around 330,000 miles that a Seafoam treatment cured.

I drive a 95 Legacy wagon, 5MT, AWD, with 335,000 miles. After doing a Seafoam treatment about 5,000 miles ago, my average has been about 31 MPG. I mostly drive on the interstate, cruise control set at 65.

I got a CEL on my 95 Legacy Wagon (2.2, MT), and I'm having trouble resetting the computer (which is the first thing I usually try when I get a CEL). I disconnected the negative terminal before heading out of town for a couple of days, and reconnected it when I got back. Started it up without touching the gas, expecting it to do that thing where the RPMs go up and down for a little bit, but it just started idling normally (with CEL on). It seems like sometimes I can reset it by disconnecting the battery, and sometimes not. Is there some specific sequence I should be following?

My wife and I both have 95 legacy wagons. Hers is an auto, mine's a manual. We stick to the roads, but here's my two cents. The auto is geared a bit taller, so on the interstate it runs a lower RPMs. However, I cross Afton mountain on I64 every day, and the manual does much better. It has enough torque to fly up in 5th gear, but the auto has to downshift to maintain speed. Around town, the auto feels pretty quick, but the shorter gearing makes the manual quicker on the interstate. Also, my understanding is that the power distribution is different - 50/50 default with the manual, 80/20 default with the auto. I suppose that could be a factor off road as well.