Jarsky

Hey everyone. So I recently bough a new daily, its a 96 legacy 2.5gt with a 4aet and 120k miles. Had some wiring issues that I was able to sort out, but I've encountered a new problem. When driving above 30 MPH if i let off the accelerator, there is a high pitched whine noise. As soon as i press on the pedal even a little bit it goes away, and it changes with speed. I'm trying to hold out hope that I don't need a new trans. but it seems like that might be in the future for the car. I did an ATF change not flush change, and plan on draining and filling the front diff fluid although when i checked the fluid it looked good. My next areas of concern are the center bearing which I have a replacement for. From what I've read there's a potential it could be the gear lash, but i was unable to find how to adjust that in the service manual I have so im basically at a dead end. Anyone have any ideas besides find a wrecked car with a trans?

there's definitely a possibility in the wiring department, but as i said after 5K the cars a rocket and at idle as well revs past 5 with no problem. The gas tank is from a GD wrx or sti with a brand new fuel pump, so it definitely shouldn't be that. Fuel filter is also only a year or so old.

it runs pretty good after a battery disconnect reset. While I'm hoping its a faulty sensor, i chased down a previous problem about a year ago and spent way too much money replacing basically every sensor except the oil pressure, while it would be a relief if it was a sensor would also be annoying

yeah it gets pretty happy past 5k

gonna work on the car tomorrow as the brakes decided they didnt want to exist anymore ill take a look then

ill try and pull the codes when i get the chance, are the ECM and the ECU the same or contained in the same unit? if so i might have a spare laying around

Hey all, i Have a 93 Subaru legacy. My cars having a problem from 4-5k rpm with a severe lack of power. She feels like a rocket up until that point but as soon as it hits 4 i can feel the car not wanting to accelerate. I figured it would be the knock sensor so i changed it with another one that i know worked. Drove the car around and it felt great so i let it sit overnight, this morning when im leaving for work, boom check engine is back on and the weak spot seems to be back. I haven't checked the code, I'm probably gonna do it tomorrow or during lunch today, but does anyone have any idea what this could be? also of note, sometimes the check engine light will go away, the car backfires less and the weak spot is completely gone. I'm aware that those are symptoms of a bad knock sensor, retard the timing and make the car run rich hence the backfire but as i said that's been changed with a slightly used but working unit. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you!

i believe i figured it out, the car has a koyo rad for a 3d gen outback in it and because the plugs are different the fans are wired to a switch in car, leaving the stock fan plugs wide open. Discovered the other day that the rad was leaking out of a ripped block of plug, since replacing that the issue hasn't happened. Im guessing maybe the coolant was dropping into the plug and that cause it to arc. Hopefully it holds up! thanks to anyone that post suggestion!

Sorry for the drop off Ive been super busy. So I have ngk plugs and wires, the random misfire has disappeared, I'm blaming that on the loose ignition box. However I have a new problem (don't know if I should start a new post it not). Sometimes when driving the car, and this is very rarely, about once a month, after I park the car for a bit and go to get it started again there's a loud buzzing noise and the rpms jump too 3000, that's just in accessories. When I go to crank the rpms go to 4k. The car won't start when this happens and I quite literally have 0 clue what it could be.let me know if this is new post worthy.

ill take a look when its not raining and see what i can find

well the O2 was replaced a couple months ago, and the car has NGK plugs that are relatively new. I did realize that the ignition coil(i think that's the name) was somewhat lose. I had to give it a bit of force to move but im sure if it hit a bump it might move enough to cause some sort of problem. That has since been tightened but because of how random the issue is I'm not sure that was the problem.

i havent checked, because of the manual swap theres always a check engine light, and it can happen at WOT or at idle, i was just giving that as an example.

i dont recall if it was recently wet, it would happen at WOT on the highway and not entirely hard to start or restart. I do have some spare parts.

the car hasnt been in a crash, and basically all the ecu side of things is good, the ecu thinks the car is in neutral 24/7 but ive been driving the car with the swap for months.

just so i don't feel dumb, Like where I put the key in right? i never thought about that if it is that.