NuclearDeLorean

Just learned that the fuse is NOT inside the FPCU. So WHERE IS IT?!?!?!!?!?

1981 Brat ea81 with no voltage to my automatic choke. Hitachi. I found this fuse in the FSM: no one can tell me where it is. No one can tell me what that black box is. So I’m about to run a switch to 12v and hard wire it.

AH HA! Do you know where the 5a fuse is??

I’m about to. Unless I learn it’s inside the FPCU (Fuel Pump Control Unit). If all fuses in the fuse block are 15A or 25a, where is the 5a rando fuse? I’m giving myself 24 hours to locate it

Looking for the 5a fuse (to my automatic choke, which might be behind the glove box), might also be inside the FPCU (Fuel Pump Control Unit) which seems to be a rotational sensor for the distributor. I assume it senses rotation from the distributor and kicks the fuel pump on. And if there is no rotation it will not flood the engine with fuel causing an unsafe situation. Anyone know if this is the FPCU and if the 5a fuse is inside?

So I found a fuse, and no idea where it is. All the fuses in the block are 15 and 25, this is a 5. Is it inside the Fuel Pump Control Unit? Is this black box the FPCU? I have so many questions. I wish I could rent a subaru mechanic for an hour and fire questions at them.

All of the fuses in the fuse block I believe are 15 amp. Unless I’m missing something!

Where is the 5a fuse for the automatic choke for an ea81 hitachi carb? I do not have 12v at my choke. Thank you!

Hello USMB! My choke has zero voltage. Looking at the wiring diagram, I see a 5a automatic choke fuse! Where!?!? Where is it in the car?

My choke is not getting 12v so my choke is totally closed at warm temp. I need to find why I do not have 12v at the choke.

My choke also does not have 12v. Going to check using this method. Where is this FPCU?

My choke is not getting 12v. Why!

I assume that it would pass smog because they run the test on a warm engine. You’ll manually have the choke wide open when warm, so it should breeze through if all else is good. I just checked mine after failing smog and realized that warm my choke is totally closed when I pulled the air cleaner. I’ve either got zero power going to it, or it’s out of adjustment. Looks like I’m drilling rivets!

Well my evap system is leaking so I’ve got a smoke test Tuesday. The carb is now tuned but I didn’t have it tuned when I went to get it tested. DUR! I found the idle screw dead center above the gasket. Turned it in until it bottomed out (gently) then backed out 2.5 turns. I then started the car, warmed, dropped idle to around 750-800 using throttle linkage screw, and backed the mixture screw out until I reached the highest idle. Then screwed if back in right before the idle starts dropping. I then dropped the throttle back to 750-800 with throttle linkage screw. These are my smog results BEFORE carb tuning and with the leaking evap system. Anyone know if since I “tuned” my carb using the above method if that is A) correct and B ) going to help my 2500 CO pass?

Thank you! I’ve been reliving old threads. Why not! I appreciate your response!

After the window crank is removed, does the door card lift off?

New carb is installed, moved a bracket for the ...choke? , fuel inlet, and the air cleaner center threaded rod and it fired right up! ...after I put fuel into the carb. Do you always need to put fuel into a new carb when you first start it? I cranked it 3 separate times, pulled the fuel line and put it into a jar, and no fuel while cranking. I actually thought I had a bad fuel pump all of a sudden. Change a tire and your headlights don’t work. I was stumped. Then put fuel down the carb and it fired and ran! Does the fuel pump only run when the engine is running? Not when cranking? I didn’t see any fuel while cranking the engine over. Now onto the compression test to see if I have a head gasket issue. But as for now, I’ve got about 2 miles on the car and it runs AWESOME. Awesome!!!!!!!

My new carb also arrived! “Why did you need a new carb? Why didn’t you rebuild? Do you know what you’re doing?“ ...well, I needed a new one because the PO and two separate carb shops tried to remove an accelerator pump that’s fused to the carb. No one could remove it, and I found a completely rebuilt one for a great deal, so why not! It bogs bad when you give it any gas but is tuned a bit rich so it’ll run past idle, Didn’t rebuild because of previous answer, and I do not know what I am doing. If I can learn the Bosch K-Jetronic Fuel injection system (installed in 380sl Mercedes, 308 Ferrari’s, and DeLoreans) I can learn this fuel system. I will learn this fuel system. Carbs are like transmissions to me, mysterious and magical. I will learn this fuel system, all check balls, floater thingies, and venturi’s combined! would have installed today but there was literal burning debris falling from the sky, probably not the best to fall into the intake. Another day, hopefully soon!

I just finished this journey you went on. Awesome work!!!!

I would love a dark blue OEM 1981 Subaru Steering wheel. Mine is a total lost cause.

Thank you for the reply! I would love to pull the engine and I will! But for now, I’d like to get it running for emissions, and if that proves an issue after the light fixes and tinkering, I will absolutely be yanking the engine. I’ve already purchased the Fel-Pro full gasket set (And will be purchasing Subaru branded intake manifold and exhaust gaskets ASAP) in anticipation of what I usually do, a pull and reseal. but going back to the retorquing question, is that a thing on EA81s? Also the 1981 Subaru FSM just showed up! Got some reading to do! Really looking forward to learning. Thank you!

Hello USMB! I’m the proud new guardian of an ‘81 Brat Gl and it’s showing some white frothyness In the oil pour tube, but the dipstick looks clean. I got the car last weekend so I have had zero time to play. I have the tools to do a leakdown test, compression test and a coolant hydrocarbon test, which will all be performed, but I’ve been reading about how non-OEM intake manifold gaskets are garbage and you need to have subaru branded ones. If you don’t have subaru branded ones you can have symptoms of a head gasket leak. Mine looks kinda squishy Photo of Intake Gasket between intake and passenger head. I haven’t noticed bubbles in my radiator (yet) and I haven’t driven it far because I just got it! (Towed home). Previous owner said he suspected the passenger side had an issue. I'm curious if Retorquing the head on the passenger side is futile and not really necessary (I would to the loosen the nut 60 degrees, ad a bit of oil, tighten to original position, loosen to 60 degrees and repeat five times, then torque to 47ftlb’s In the order shown in the manual.) I know a leakdown test will be pretty definitive tell tale ...test to perform, but looking for some insight while I wait for the blazing sun to subside a bit. Thank you everyone! Looking forward to digging through the site -Luigi-