Scubasteve009

Haha, yeah among other trans parts...

OL on the pin inside the connector, but probing on the backside of connector it was all over the spectrum... I couldn’t get a steady reading anywhere... I even took a small connector file and cleaned the pin inside but it still wouldn’t get a reading... always open line, but also the pin did not feel loose as if it was broken.. it’s weird...

No, and the very first transmission did go completely bad, it was the one before this one that had the same issues that I assumed was another bad trans... both where 50k transmissions and I was told the first one I got was out of a 30th Anniversary OB Wagon... but I’m not positive it was so..??? This trans was 52k on mileage and out of a 99 Forester L , same as mine...

I replaced the Tranfer duty “C” Solenoid.... all is good now...!!! Drives and shifts fine...!!!

never heard of driving with trans plug diconnected...? all the wiring looks good, it sat inside most of that time and i was doing ll the brakes and rebuilding the front spindles so i dont believe any rodents got into it and ive seen no signs of rodents either.... im doing the checking process from the fsm now , its a slow process but im trying... its definetly code 79 from the secret handshake method... ... and about the correct year trans i have no clue... was supposed to be correct but who knows... oh well back to ohming wires and stuff..... lol

well the TCM did not fix the issues, still binding... guess i need to make the decision to replace the transfer duty solenoid and clutch pack or start looking for a manual swap.... id hate to waste money on the solenoid and clutch pack for it to still not work... but im clueless as to what else could be wrong....

thanks , its reading 13.3 Ohm's.... hopefully the TCM will fix it today.... its definatly working because when power is added it clicks open and i can blow through it... so its a good replacement i can use for the one in the current trans if its bad...

thats what i said in the previous post... lol

whys that, everything from the same generation car will work except the cross member and drive shaft. thats the only two parts ill need from a forester of my body style... plus it deletes the tmc and all of those problems...

ive got the old duty c solenoid out of the old trans. the clutch pack looks good but the solenoid is ohming out at 13.3.... ive seen online it should be 12.5, ive yet to add power to see if it clicks or not... also on the old trans when i pulled the back chunk off there was a small metal tube that just fell out. i seen where it goes, and whan i put it back in its spot it seems to want to stay.... if i do another swap it will definatly be 5 speed...!!!

yes its all stock except stereo and wheels.... its had an older respray once upon a time but it matches factory paint perfect....

answered questions in quote......

I’ve got a 99 Forester L. Car ran, shifted, did everything great but needed maintenance, I did head gaskets and all that that implies, fully rebuilt both front spindles sand blasted and painted everything I could, new front axles, new brakes all around and also painted all of those components to stop the dreaded undercarriage rust... I put the motor back in and it lasted 50 miles and the trans seemed to have went out. Wouldn’t pull sometimes, torque bind, flashing AT fluid light. so I acquired a 50k trans from a guy online, bought a new torque converter, new seals front and rear, fluid, spin on filter and thoroughly cleaned the inner filter of all debri and stuff (there wasn’t much at all) and put the new’er trans in place... 60 miles down the road, same symptoms along with some white smoke out of the exhaust and what seems to be some valve rattle..? (Still questioning that)... did some online research and did the secret handshake and I’m getting a code 79. No codes on the scanner, Only engine codes are the pO420 O2 sensor code.... anyone have any ideas as to what in the world I need to do..??? The AT Oil Temp light comes on and flashes at cold start, problems are either at cold start or shortly after and the FWD fuse does absolutely nothing..... any help would be hugely appreciated..!!!! I’ve got too much money in this car to scrap it and running out of money for another transmission or a trans rebuild..... And she’s too nice to give up on... The only rust is a tiny bit in the pinch mold under the rear bumper (besides the normal driveline scale I haven’t addressed yet)...... Thanks, Stephen.....