laegion

No. As I said the access is in the cargo area under the carpet behind the seat back.

Yours should be the same as my '95 was. There are two access hatches behind the rear seat under the rear cargo area. One on the drivers side that just has a fuel tank sender and one on the passenger side with a sender and the fuel pump assembly. They are both under oval covers that are under the carpet.

I always use parts.subaru.com, the URL changes once you've picked a local or maybe not local dealership through the main site. However, they don't seem to list canadian dealers; so I'd probably use your local dealers website. I honestly don't know that I'd go aftermarket for something like HG...but I haven't yet done a HG job on my ez30d...I just swapped in a JDM motor instead.

Well, I haven't had time to pull it apart and attempt any proper fix; but I did do the quick and easy "cheat" fix. I just switched the blinker on and off on that side, over and over again rapidly about 20-30 times to make the contacts clean themselves and that seems to have worked for now.

Thank you, I will look for one. I really like how mildly abrasive that type is.

My favorite was the old erasable pen erasers...not such a thing now. I haven't seen those in years. I've had to use a file on some copper contact pads when they have buildup mostly.

Yeah, I looked up the older version...glad I didn't have this issue with my '95 (which I actually sold today). I will make sure to post results. I'll likely pull it out and see if it's a pain to disassemble...may order another used one or pick one up from the local salvage yard before I attempt opening it as it's a bit hard to drive without, if I accidentally break it...I've cleaned contacts on many relays and switches to save $$ over the years...so hopefully this isn't extremely complex in comparison.

Yeah, definitely does not require removing the steering wheel. I just looked it up. it's 5 phillips screws and one connector. Super easy 15min job. Thankfully they updated the design for the 3rd generation Legacy's.

That's kinda what I'm thinking, or maybe a little abrasion with a file. I assume these blinker switches are easier to remove than old GM ones (which is the only other car I've had to deal with a bad switch on). I will have to look it up. The replacement switches I've seen in my searches surely look easier to replace than an old GM; but then again Subaru design is on an entirely other level than that old GM stuff, so that is to be expected.

I've not had this issue with a Subaru...but generally when a bulb goes bad the other bulb on that side and the dash indicator blinks at twice the rate because of the decreased resistance on the circuit? That's why I made sure to mention this; because I'm not sure if that's the way it works on this gen legacy as well? I'm thinking switch because of how it acts when the lever is in certain areas of it's throw...but I wanted to get some opinions of people more familiar with this generation. I don't recall exactly how the relay works to be honest. I replaced the relay in my other car since I swapped it to LED bulbs everywhere, but this one I haven't messed with yet.

My blinker seems to work fine for left turns, but on right turns, sometimes the relay goes extra fast and the dash light does not blink. Normally I would suspect a bad bulb, but when it does this no blinkers and no dash light flashes. However if I gently nudge the indicator lever back to center it will generally work. If I nudge the stick toward the right blinker as with a lane change, it works fine as well. It seems like a blinker switch to me. Any thoughts?

sold

sold

sold

Sold

Well, also, looking at the plugs might give some clues as to what is happening. Also, I've had very nice looking wires that were leaking spark...it doesn't always look obvious. I used to look at the engine in the dark while running, it makes it really easy to spot. Also might test the resistances on your ignition coil to see if it's gone bad. Also, I've had problems with a partially stuck PCV valve that presented similarly.

I'm sure others will have some good suggestions; but I would first inspect your plugs and wires, see if they are good, see if they have oil or have been running hot. Also, your knock sensor, I would pull it and inspect for cracks, make sure to torque to spec when re-installing. Also, if you haven't done so yet, since you reconnected the O2 Sensor, you might try disconnecting the battery for a bit to reset the ECM. I'd also check your PCV valve, and air filter. It sounds a lot like either bad plugs, or a vacuum leak of some kind. What color was the smoke coming from the tailpipe? Also, how does your coolant look?

It's no problem. You can do it this way...but it's just easier to start your own, especially since this one was never resolved and could be a completely different cause.

I haven't done this with an impreza but I did on my '95 Legacy and it was basically that easy. I used LED bulbs so I just pulled power from the dome light. It was fairly simple, all the screw bosses were there. Probably the trickiest part was cutting just the right size hole in the headliner. I would imagine it would be similar in your case.

Probably better to start your own new thread with all the information you can, rather than revive such an old thread.

They generally just left them out unless it was a premium model, like the LL Bean. Thankfully there is still a spot for them.

If you need some rebuilt injectors I found a place that does cleaning and flow matching, provides all new seals, and provides a lifetime warranty on theirs. My car has been running well on some of their rebuilt injectors for several weeks now. I can't endorse them or anything since I've only done business with them once, but they seem really reputable and their ebay rating is really good. (which is where I found them) 99.3% with over 24k transactions. https://www.cspinjectors.com/

(edited, because what's the point without more info...)

Did you have it evacuated and recharged by a shop yet? If not, I would do that, it's cheaper than throwing more parts at it. I paid about $130 to have the A/C recharged in my '95 and they put it on the machine and evacuated it and left it under vacuum for a bit. Charged it up and ended up putting an extra LB of refrigerant in. $100 for the labor and $30 for the lb of refrigerant. They were done with it in a few hours. Worked awesome after that. Before it would sometimes be kinda cold, sometimes warmish; but never right. After, it was ice cold.

You also may want to make sure it's the correct alternator by checking info against the OEM version. The H6 Alternator is higher amperage output than the H4 alternator and that could cause a problem, especially with all the accessories running, and definitely if there are aftermarket drains on the power like 1 Lucky Texan said.