laegion

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https://www.manualslib.com/manual/232300/Subaru-1999-Legacy.html?page=47 This is for a '99 so it should be the same...same procedure I described above. Fixes the issue and no wrenches turned at all.

Put it in valet mode...I dunno if '98 has it, but my '03 does with the alpine security system. You unlock the car, open the drivers door, while it's open hold the unlock button down for 3 seconds, then the security light will start flashing on the dash...assuming it's the same as mine. It's all in the user manual....easily searched online in pdf format. If it has a security system odds are it has valet mode. Then the fob just controls the door locks.

Well, after the pipe plug that was in the correct position refused to come out under any circumstances and was so soft it fell apart.......I just got a piece of appropriate sized vacuum hose and hooked it up with a fitting to the stock hose from my car so it still has the one way valve on it. It is possible the original brake booster hose from my car is deteriorating but I checked it while I was doing the install of the injectors and it seems completely intact. I didn't take it off and test it though.

Exactly, so I have to assume that it's oil vapor that has condensed in the line above the valve and flowed back down...or it came from the throttle body...but even though I'm not familiar with the internal construction of this throttle body, that doesn't seem a likely possibility. Especially since it would have to travel up for a few inches to be able to flow back down to the valve.

If it does, I found what seems to be a very economical source for cleaned and flow-matched O.E.M. injectors...in case it turns out that is the issue. I just put some in my H6 because I've been having similar issues, and it's helped a lot! I still have something going on, but I think it's a grounding issue.

No, I don't think that is the case. I even looked at the original engine (I have it on my engine stand still) and it all looks the same. I replaced the injectors with a rebuilt set today and I didn't see any cracked lines or anything. The only potential issue I saw was the hard plastic part of the PCV line going from the valve to the TB. The mounting bracket molded into it has broken off, but it doesn't look like a hole or leak there...so I'm not sure. To clarify, it is clean liquid oil, the valve seems to be functional so I cleaned it out with some TB cleaning spray and a towel and reinstalled it for now. There was some oil in the bottom of the tube where it connects to the valve also, and when I removed it there was oil up to the top of the fitting on the valve...I will likely be replacing that hard plastic tube, it doesn't look like it's in poor condition but I'd like it to mount like it's supposed to.

Is it normal to fail this quickly? '03 Outback H6 Ez30D JDM imported motor with ~70k on the clock. Time for an oil catch can? or is this a sign of some deeper issue?

I can confirm, at least in my '95 it does run inside the cabin under the carpet and door sill trim along the drivers side.

Are you going for a more aggressive look? or just trying to replace some damaged parts inexpensively?

Well it has Xmode and all the other driving modes that you'd find in any other modern Subaru, I think it's a little different because some of the tech is designed by Toyota, like the infotainment system and screen are all all Toyota...but that seems like a good thing since from what I've seen, all the newer Subaru infotainment systems are kinda sluggish. Yes...so much less to worry about. Most EV's use coolant to maintain battery temperature. I'm sure some of them cool the Electronic Speed Controller that way also, since they can get very warm. It has a very similar shape to the newer Rav4. That's technically a Crossover Suv.

Or they designed it that way on purpose...I'm not a fluid dynamics expert; but I imagine there are various effects created by having the inlet to the airbox smaller than the outlet to the TB...like creating a low pressure area in the airbox under sudden acceleration...either way, no engine is working at peak CFM often enough to make it have any kind of difference except at maybe the last few hundred RPM at redline while at WOT. Unless there is some terrible problem with the design (and I'd say that Subaru engineers understand much more about fluid dynamics and flow restrictions and how they work to create a torque curve than we do) then I wouldn't mess with it unless you're doing major mods to the engine that would cause it to need more fuel and air. Mostly what happens when people mess with their intake and exhaust without proven dyno tested setups is that you'll lose fuel economy (more air means more fuel to maintain the F/A ratio) and make your engine more peaky in it's power band. I wouldn't sacrifice low down power that's used every day in driving for a few hp at the peak of the power band that only gets used every once in a while personally, not even for a little more intake sound... I think what's happening here is that people are thinking these motors (that are tuned very well to get good usable power from them considering their size) will respond the same to mods on intake and exhaust as an older, heavily restricted v8 (or stock turbo setup) would. It's just not the case. These aren't poorly tuned and detuned 70's V8's with heavily restrictive exhausts and intakes to comply with tightening emissions standards...(or a tiny stock turbo setup) If you're looking for something with performance that responds to mods well, then buy a different car with a turbo...or spend the money to do a good quality turbo motor swap or something. With a stock 4cyl motor a legacy just isn't a performance car. You'll need to do much much more than a CAI to make it one. but if you're just looking for some "street cred" or whatever it's called these days, or some more sound and you aren't concerned with the loss of mileage and low end performance then have at it...

The Solterra like other EVs that have AWD has two motors that are where you would typically find the differentials, each driving one set of wheels with a gear reduction box. It is not a rebadged Toyota as stated in a previous post by another user. It was developed jointly by Subaru and Toyota (who both own a large stake in the other company). Subaru designed most of the chassis from what I understand. The Subaru does have some differences also. It's as capable off-road as a Forester, or the Rav4 that it shares a familiar body shape with. I personally hate the dash setup though, and I'll wait until they have a fully electric outback since the solterra is shorter like the Forester. It depends on how you drive, whether electric is practical. If one just commutes less than 100 miles a day and charges their car at home and maybe also at work then something like a Leaf would work perfectly. Most of the newer EVs coming out have comparable full-charge mileage to the average gas vehicle...and most people don't drive over 200miles in one day unless they are going on a trip. I wouldn't assert they are more practical than a gas car at this point for long trips but any other situation I would argue that they are. Increases in charging infrastructure and development of integrated solar panels will help change that in the near future though. The other factor I'd argue on is that if you charge at home over night on a 220v outlet you'll pay a lot less to operate for the same amount of miles than a gas vehicle. There is a lot less loss of energy from poor efficiency in the way an electric vehicle gets and uses it's power than how a gas engine car does; especially if your electricity is from renewables like it is here in the PNW. That's not even getting into the far lower maintenance costs since basically it just needs suspension work, tires, steering, and probably regular coolant flushes. So many less consumables and work necessary over the life of an electric car.

There really isn't much point unless you've done some other mods that require more airflow. There are lots of aftermarket filters made to fit most car's stock intake boxes. That's what I'd do if I wanted to upgrade my filtration. Plus a CAI introduces other potential issues unless it has it's own "box" surrounding it...such as moisture, and more heat than the stock intake, etc. I'm not sure about on yours, but on my '95 it has a little snorkel under the hood that scoops in cold air from the hood gap and feeds it into the airbox. That's far colder than any air in the engine compartment.

It is. They need to bring back the Baja based off the new wilderness or the ascent chassis. Honda has a Ute, Ford now has a Ute. Subaru needs one. I think it would sell well now; especially if it had a manual transmission either with a crawling gear or a dual range like they sold in Australia in previous generations.

Sadly that didn't work on mine, I tried that more than once. The tire was actually not round anymore due to a faulty steel belt. It was super noticeable under 10mph, but from 15mph to 50mph it was barely noticeable. Then again at 60mph it was terrible.

I had a similar problem and it actually turned out to be tires. Very likely a faulty steel belt. I'd replaced both front bearings and ball joints recently and I could not figure out what the problem was; until I finally got new tires and the problem was completely gone.

There are two likely causes in my experience. #1 is a short in the speaker wire, usually in the dash behind the head unit from previous owner messing with wires, or in the door jam where the wires move around every time the door is opened, or at the speaker because a previous owner messed with that. The one thing I haven't seen mentioned yet is a partially blown driver/speaker. Sometimes when the voice coil in the speaker gets partially fried, it will still sometimes work if you get the coil to move within the magnet. Then if it rubs on the magnet it stops working again. Usually due to a short where the coating on the coil wires is melted and then contacts with the permanent magnet. Really the only way to test that is to swap both the front speakers with each other and see if the issue changes sides. It's very common with stock speakers, people just crank the volume and the distortion from driving them so hard with a low power amp melts things.

I would think that the oil burning cleaner would mean less problems for the cat. Over the 3-5k between oil changes, I'm sure the gas savings adds up to a lot more than a couple quarts of oil. Even the Subaru synthetic.

Well, hopefully even without a kit available, there is a way to put one together from OEM parts? Maybe more expensive than a kit...but I'm willing to bet it's still cheaper than a new inferior pump...

It seems the only reliable way to go is to rebuild the original pump with OEM parts, That's what I did on my '95 several years ago, it was quite a bit less than buying a new pump and it's worked perfect now for years.

Yeah, I don't think the TR690 is very common compared to the TR580, I don't know about other places in the U.S. but I see a lot more n/a subies around than turbo or H6, with the exception being the Ascent which does use the TR690; and I guess now the Wilderness Edition OBW which I see around quite a bit considering it's not been out long.

Okay, this sounds like it might be important....what happened that it was replaced? aftermarket pump or OEM? How long ago?

If not...maybe one could swap the valve body/solenoid pack (or whatever it's called in the CVT) over to make it work? From what I understand there are just two models of CVT, TR580 and TR690. It seems the TR690 is used in turbo models and H6, where the TR580 is used in N/A applications. So if they are both N/A then maybe? I'm sure someone here has more specific experience than I do.

Another way to help diagnose the possible issue is to see what happens when the car warms up...how loud is the noise? Does it get worse, stay the same or get quieter if you gently rev the engine. If you barely poke the throttle at idle, does it cause the rhythm of the knocking to change? and how does it change? etc. If you hold the engine at 2000 RPM in neutral/park is it quieter than at idle, the same or louder? Is it an auto trans? if so, what happens if you put the brake on and put the transmission in drive or reverse; without touching the throttle? Does this quiet the noise? or is it the same? Louder?