laegion

Have you checked the TPS under other throttle positions to see if it functions like it should "off-idle"? I assume you've checked the TPS voltage when the idle is normal vs. when the idle is high to compare? I'm not sure about the phase II EJ22, but I know on mine the IAC is adjustable, is it possible yours needs adjusting? I'm no expert but those are the two things that I'd check first. Maybe someone with more experience will have some more specific ideas.

Strange, when I look the head gasket up on parts.subaru.com for the phase II EJ22 it shows this gasket: but the ones I used in my phase I looked like this: Maybe I have bad info; but I believed the issue was mainly due to using a composite gasket that deteriorated when coolant and oil sat on the gasket, and that an mls gasket like the one shown above was the fix for that issue?

So you don't recommend CVT service? or just not at 60k?

I assume you're saying that the Ej22 phase II head is similar to the EJ251 then since they are both sohc? I thought the issue with the ej251 head gaskets was the head gasket design/material?

I want to preface this by saying that I have never had dealer service done and very little done at shops in any capacity; so this is just a comment, not advice However to me this seems really high for what you're getting. The lower packages don't even include CVT service and none of them include a coolant flush. I don't know if that's because it was in the last periodic service or what, but if it isn't than it should be by 60k... Hopefully someone who's more knowledgeable about dealer and mechanic service fees can illuminate the situation better.

So you're saying the phase II EJ22 uses the same head gaskets as the EJ251? or the EJ25D?

Head gaskets where never more of an issue on the EJ22 than any other aluminum engine in any other brand. The headgaskets typically are good unless it's been overheated. With good maintenance they'll go 300k+ so if it's in good shape it will be as reliable as any other 23 year old car. The main question I would have about a car this old with so few miles is if it sat for long periods of time without being run which could cause gasket or other issues. Any engine that gets driven like a race car when it's not designed for it is going to have a shorter life. My first questions would be how many owners it's had. What was the maintenance like. at 115k it should have already had a timing belt, water pump, and idlers done. When was it done and by whom. etc. Also check the coolant overflow (at idle while running) after driving around for a bit and getting it warmed up to make sure there are no bubbles going into the overflow from the radiator. That's typically what you'll see with an EJ22 with a bad head gasket, also could be coolant in oil or oil in coolant; but from what I understand that is a rare issue with the EJ22. However, it's best to have a Subaru or import mechanic look it over for you.

I really wanted to get the newest Geolandar on my '03 Outback H6; but with all the projects I've got, my finances are going to limit me to what I can get at Les Schwab...so the closest thing I've seen from them is the Pinza AT (I'm going to go with a 215/70r16 or about 28" diameter). They look to be a very new tire but the tests I've managed to find, Tire Rack, and Motor Trend seem to rate them very highly; but they only test them on trucks and the Maverick (I'm not sure it really counts as a truck) so not in a similar size to what a Subaru would run. So I'm wondering if anyone has tried them and how they feel they are on and off road compared to more conventional all seasons and snow tires? or compared to those new Geolandars that come on the Wilderness editions?

I hope to enjoy it for quite a few years. It's a very nice engine. I love my EJ22...but 6cyl just have such smooth power delivery and this one has such a flat torque curve. It's going to be a great roadtrip and light overlanding vehicle.

You mentioned adding 4oz, are you weighing the can before and after adding? I've only ever done A/C service myself with a machine during a very brief stint as a mechanic. It seems to me that manufacturers rate their systems by volume and not pressure...and the only way to be sure of volume is to evacuate the system and create as much vacuum as possible before filling. I'm no expert however, as they basically only showed me how to operate the machine, not what was actually going on and since then I've just had a shop deal with the A/C stuff. I had the A/C in my '95 serviced last year and they added about a pound of refrigerant and it only cost me $130 total. I dunno what it costs where you're at; but that cost was worth it to me rather than waste time messing with non-professional kits.

Well then, 5w40 it will be. I was using the subaru synthetic and the subaru filters but I've heard the filters they sell in the American market are not very good so back to Napa Gold/wix. I should say, I don't trust my friend because he's ASE certified. I trust him because we started working on cars together doing engine swaps on 80's Camaro's, and aircooled VW's etc over 20 years ago and now he's one of the best diagnostic techs around. I like your philosophy about being a "machinist" rather than a mechanic...it makes perfect sense. I've worked on a lot of machines: like a huge pitney bowes sorter/inserter, and RC cars and designed/built FPV quads and the skills are all related. My friend is the same way. I appreciate the detailed info. I just didn't want to go from the OEM on this motor without more info since it's a low mikeage JDM motor Injust spent a bundle installing, and it's different than what I'm used to. I haven't had a motor with chain driven cams probably since I sold my 76 Datsun 620. and yes...driving cold vehicles is one thing that irritates the hell out of me. I'm sure everyone I know is sick of me telling them it's bad for their car. I'm the kind of driver if I have to drive it cold I basically coast it with minimal load till it's warm. No need to destroy my bearings or break piston skirts. Is there a specific filter from wix you'd recommend for the EZ30D specifically or just the same as the EJ series? That's what napa sold me when I went to get a filter for this thing. Thanks again; this info puts my mind at ease.

What kind of machine are you using to charge your system?

From your description there is no guarantee that a swaybar will fix your issue. It may improve it...but there may be more wrong than that. If your tires are rubbing from body roll then a swaybar may do it. If it's from heavy loads in the rear or a combination of weight, tired springs, and tired struts it won't cure your issue. However, it's probably a good idea to get one under there anyway; it'll handle better in hard cornering. I'd bet you can pick one up with brackets from a parts yard for a reasonable price...or at least the brackets.

I agree, that's why I typically only take advice from ASE certified techs when it comes to this sort of thing, which is why I listen to my friends advice on oil, he's been an ASE certified diagnostic pro for over a decade; but he's not a subaru tech specifically so his knowledge in this area isn't as thorough as the techs prowling this board. It's why I'm here and not on some FB group where every "know it all" gives a useless opinion. I only run synthetic in both of my Subies, and have for years. I can get amsoil, and certain formulations of the Liqui Moly locally. I'm mostly only interested in the liqui moly because my friend says he's had really good results with it in several vehicles. Better than some of the more expensive brands as it's formulated for high end European engines, (not the lowest bidder an OEM could contract). I'm skeptical of course so that's why I'm asking about direct experience with Liqui Moly or different viscosities in the ez30. I know all the differences between synthetic and organic oil. I know in the majority of engines viscosity isn't as important as it's made out to be. I've actually owned over 30 cars in the 20 years I've been driving and worked on almost all of them. I've already done an engine swap on both my Subies...so I'm not a newbie; I know the basics. I'm really only posting about this because I am curious about the effect of viscosity on the timing chain tensioners of the EZ30D Phase I specifically. I've tried multiple searches using the forum search feature with no luck. I'll try using Google as you suggest. Thanks for the info.

Please tell me it wasn't $999 when you bought one??

Just, Okay? That sounds ominous...I just bought a stock Denso radiator for my '03, not from the dealer though, on ebay. It cost me about what a generic brand costs at the big parts stores ~$120. Just did the same for my '95. They are typically the o.e.m. manufacturer for Japanese car brands. The trick is to be sure what you're buying is genuine. I typically only buy stuff like that from sellers with 99% or higher feedback just to be safe...and also make sure they specify the brand in the sale, so I can get my money back if they try to switch it on me.

I appreciate the general info. I'm really looking for specific info about the ez30d phase I. The reason is that I recall GD mentioning something about this in another post but I can't find it and I don't think he explained the reason for the specific viscosity. I've read a lot about Subarus and watched hundreds of hours of videos, etc. The viscosity choice is by and large about fuel consumption from what I understand. However there are always exceptions to any rule. Also, an '06 would have a phase II EZ motor so I'm not sure it would be the same, since it has VVT, a redesigned front cover and timing chain system from what I understand. Sadly, two oil changes would only last me 3 months right now as I'm driving this car for work until I get my '95 back up and running. I've heard good things about amsoil...but I'm inclined to listen to my mechanic friend when it comes to fluid recommendations. Unfortunately he's not a Subaru specific tech so he's unfamiliar with any reason the ez30d might need a specific viscosity. It's also possible I'm remembering it wrong; but I'd hoped one of the subaru techs on the board would know about this if it's common knowledge in the field.

Interestingly I watched a mod list video on a crosstrek yesterday and they mounted some LED pod lights on a hood hinge bracket that placed them at the hood corners. They looked like an aluminum aftermarket pre-cut bracket. maybe they fit the outback also? or they make a version for your car? I'm not endorsing this channel or mods. Just a random subie video that happened to come up in my feed.

I've been using the subaru synthetic 5w30, a mechanic friend of mine recommended Liqui Moly and that I might try their 5w40. I seem to remember very specific recommendations about only using 5w30; but I can't find mention of it when searching. I'm wondering why a specific viscosity would be recommended for this engine? Also any recommendations on high quality synthetic that works well with this motor are appreciated. I'm hoping to find something available in local parts stores if possible. but at least something I don't have to order form a dealership as we don't have one in my town. If it's also better than the factory subaru oil that would be a bonus.

I just bought a new one without the fan cage and just swapped the fan cage over. It was less than $40 new, and it's common enough they had it in stock. New or Used, it shouldn't be a difficult part to find.

Why not go to parts.subaru.com and find the parts that are specific to your vehicle, then look at what other vehicles share that part #? There is always a link to vehicles with the same part number right on the part page.

You'll need to pull the glovebox out to get access to the blower motor. Disconnect the wires and test for power on all the settings as they mentioned above. If there's power then pull the motor and replace it. They aren't outrageously expensive and it's reasonably easy to do with basic tools.

Pictures showing the stock stereo pinout? All the pinouts are in the FSM.

I'll be curious to hear what you find out with #2 as my '95 has a similar problem. I suspect either a bad connection to the fuel pump (The gas gage is also intermittent sometimes coinciding with the issue) mine drives fine in town though, it only has an issue when driving faster than 45mph or so, so maybe it's something entirely different...but I also have cylinder misfire codes, sometimes, one, two, three, or even all four. It'll die like yours, sometimes flooring the throttle seems to "clean it out" sometimes I have to turn off the ignition and restart the car while rolling and then sometimes it drives on the highway like nothing is wrong. Strangely, I can accelerate all the way to redline perfectly fine in first and second gear and it doesn't do it then...but cruising on the highway... My other suspected cause is a burned valve or like GD said, a dropped valve guide; or maybe carbon buildup on the valves and seats from too much city driving (I used it for delivery). Maybe that's applicable to your situation...maybe not.

The flywheel is new? Or you're still using the original resurfaced one? I still suggest getting a new or used resurfaced one; and checking out the transmission input shaft play when you do.