laegion

Just google "tire size comparison calculator"

I went from 14" to 16" on my '95. I lifted it too; but I also went with bigger tires. Properly sized 15" tires should fit fine with the right 15" wheels, they just need to have the right backspacing/offset and lug pattern, etc. It's probably easiest for fitment if you use 15" Subaru wheels from another 90's subaru or early 2000s.

What brand/kind of clutch kit are you using?

Sorry, yes, I meant from HLAs. The original EJ22 in my '95 Legacy L had them but if I remember correctly, when I swapped in a '94 EJ22 (of course I'm basing the year on what the seller told me), it had HLAs as well, but it didn't have EGR and a slightly different design to intake. The heads are a little different as they don't have the bung for the EGR on the driver's side cylinder head, and even though there is a boss there that seems it would be for the EGR bung...it definitely is not. It goes into a water jacket...and don't ask how I know. lol (which was fun when it came time to hook up the EGR). This is why I have such a hard time finding useful and accurate info about "older" subarus, I am a member on the outback forum; and I've scoured nasoic and legacygt.com, etc. Most info is just people's wrong impressions. It's also why this is the only site I actually participate in; because the members seem to be more technical than the average. However even cars101 and wikipedia seem to have little info on the ej22. It's far easier to find info on the turbo motors or the ej25 in my experience. I've only owned two EJ22's so far, and now an EZ30, so I'm no expert; but I did do a lot of research on them about 6 years ago when I was looking for a motor to swap into my '95; but like you said, there is a lot of wrong info out there, or just slightly inaccurate info, like transitions or revisions that are a year off or so. I see it here too; but not as much. That's why I usually won't comment unless I'm reasonably sure I know what I'm talking about. Obviously, this time my info wasn't quite accurate.

Not really, the only thing I was wrong about was what year the EJ22 changed to single port heads, and that is why I assumed the single port head design was part of the '97 refresh. Not that there is any info to be found on the net about this except lots of wrong opinions on this board and other boards. All the resources I've read so far don't mention anything about the single port change-over. Also there is the fact that I keep finding that some people with a 96 EJ22 seem to have dual port and some seem to have single port. Do you know if it was '96 or '97 they changed to HLAs? I can't recall what year they switched that; but it would make sense if it changed with the head design.

Good to know.

It shouldn't be a single port motor, the switchover from everything I read was in '97. Maybe that's not the original motor? I misspoke, '97-'98 is not phase 2. Phase 2 EJ22 started in '99. The '97-'98 is a revision on the phase 1, they mainly just changed the heads and the intake, the majority of the motor stayed the same. The phase 2 motors changed quite a bit more. If you have a single port EJ22 it is an interference engine. The piston was one of the "improvements". They sacrificed the non-interference status to gain some compression. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_EJ_engine#Naturally_Aspirated_2

I've had a similar noise on both of my subies, and I've been told by multiple people including an ASE certified mechanic that it's most likely the swaybar endlinks; but honestly I haven't gotten around to replacing them yet as I have far more important issues to resolve at the moment.

It's lucky that you have a '95 with an Ej22. They are extremely reliable as long as you don't overheat them; and easier to work on than the Ej25D of the same era. The spark plugs are especially easy to get to compared to the EJ25d. Not that any Imprezas got the ej25 until the 2.5RS in the late 90's. Some people seem to think the EJ22 is short on power but in my experience with my '95 Legacy L is that with the lighter base model Legacys and the Imprezas being lighter than the outbacks that the EJ22 is plenty of motor except maybe if you try to pass someone on the highway going uphill or you're trying to haul half the stuff you own in the back.

They should be the same. '95 and '96 had the EJ22 with EGR and dual port exhaust, and non-interference. Almost the same engine as in my '95 except that I swapped out my original engine for a '94 without EGR (that's a whole other fun story) I believe in '97 the changed to the single exhaust port phase 2 EJ22.

It really depends where you are. Neither my '95 or my '03 have any kind of rust other than some surface rust on the undercarriage and exhaust. I'm in the Inland Northwest though and it's dry here.

I will say, after owning a '95 Legacy L Wagon with an EJ22 for the last 7 years...I am really enjoying my '03 Outback LL Bean...between the H6 and the heated leather seats and moonroofs I'm glad I bought one.

bubbling in the overflow tank at idle when warm, indicating a bad head gasket. Oil leaks on the front cover or from one of the oil pan gaskets may indicate the PCV valve wasn't changed regularly. The Moonroof tracks and motors have a tendency to get stripped out or the drains to get clogged. Make sure it has subaru green coolant. Regular green isn't right for the H6. Also, listen for chain slap as the tensioners can start going bad as early as 150k That's all I can think of at the moment.

I almost sounds like an oil contaminated clutch disk...or maybe inferior quality clutch components or poor flywheel resurfacing. It's so hard to tell without actually driving it...

Swaybars? I haven't heard of many people upgrading swaybars on their legacy's but I'm sure it would help with road performace. I guess I've never really felt mine needed an upgrade. the stock tire size for a 96-99 Outback is a 205/70r15 which is the same overall diameter is the 205/65/16. That's why I went with that size myself. From my experience with previous 4wd vehicles I think a good offroad tread pattern would add a lot of grip. I've been thinking about the new Yokohama Geolander AT since I'm mostly on-road but they are much more aggressive offroad than the All-season's I have been running. Another thing you could do to increase approach and departure angles is modifying the bumper covers...although this is one thing I like the L over the Outback for...it seems the L has more clearance there already due to not having as large or low hanging pumper covers. Although I'd have to compare them side by side to see exactly how much or how little difference it actually makes. I've read of people fitting at least slightly larger tires especially with another inch of lift or so beyond the stock Outback ride height...like 215/70r16 or something similar...about 1/2 - 1" larger in diameter without cutting...but there could be rubbing at steering lock.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/6kGnhiL6r2tnxPbJ6

Have you looked into tires that are just slightly bigger than stock Outback size? I figure with this ride height, plus slightly bigger tires with much better offroad tread, and skid plates one could get plenty of interesting places.

Wow...that's way better than I get with my '95. Did you drive a lot of highway miles?

When I replaced the radiator in my '03 Outback I bought an O.E.M. Denso unit but not from the dealer, and it was about half the price.

They are awesome little cars...I've been through and over many things I'd never expect a car, even lifted, would make it through. There are even some things I like more about it than my '03 outback...like how light it is...and easier to work on.

I don't know about the forester but my '03 Outback has a manual crank hidden behind a small plastic cover in the ceiling. I hear it's fragile though so if the forester does have it also...beware of turning it too hard.

When was the last time the gear oil was changed...if it's getting thin it would be normal to hear more gear noise. Most likely it's just got miles and some wear. I don't know of this is universal but I've always noticed with MTs the lower gears are usually slightly noisier than the others. Maybe a function of tooth count or maybe the angle the gears are cut at or both. I've never seen inside one of those so I don't know.

I wouldn't ditch that motor...it's actually kinda desirable because of how reliable and easy to work on they are. I dunno about what people in this forum think of the idea; but before I bought my '03 Outback I was planning on bolting on some stock turbo parts from an early 2000's 2.0l WRX as they will bolt onto the dual port ej22. I only managed to get as far as 2002 WRX 2-pot front rotors and calipers. Another possibility ( but expensive and difficult to get here) is getting a manual transmission with a low gear in it. Sadly they were not available here; but there are places in Australia that sell parts and kits. Personally I would never recommend building a '95-'99 legacy (maybe others but these are the ones I've researched most) with a manual transmission for offroad. The gearing in the MT is not low enough to creep. The auto of that era (4eat) is far better offroad (unless you're comparing to an MT with gear reduction) because the 4eat auto has a better transfer clutch for offroad and because the torque converter allows you to creep better even with a slightly higher first gear ratio. I have a '95 Legacy L with '99 Outback struts and 205/65R16 and it goes quite well on and off-road; but I have to take things slower and pick my lines more carefully than I did with my Suzuki Sj410 with spring over axle conversion on 32" ATs or my '94 K2500 on 33" MTs. I'm not sure what kind of terrain you're off-roading in but personally the only thing I'd change about my '95 would be to add skid plates and get some better tires in the same size.

From your description it seems it has to be the clutch or flywheel, since it seems that it only happens when releasing the clutch pedal. Not deceleration and accelerating while in gear? You didn't mention; but I'm assuming the clutch is fully disengaging? Meaning you're not having trouble shifting into 1st from neutral while stopped? The only other thing I can think of would be the transmission input shaft bearing.

Maybe it's just me...but I feel that having the "battery and brake lights on for forever (6 months at least)", should be just as concerning as these new developments.