pvfahrer

yeah its a good reward to figure things out with guidance and see the effect of them! its even better if you sort them out yourself, but with this stuff expert advice is priceless and saves a lot of time! Do you mean this Lucas stuff here?

just read up on this a little bit, this would also explain why it leaks semetimes from the rear main seal...I will look into he pcv valve and replace it!

yeah i did a compression test and got some uneven numbers 130-180 which went up to 180±10 when i did the wet test, guess its time for a rebuild on that one, although it still runs fine as long as i keep putting oil in

victory!!! I did as you said and looked into the wire nut and as mentioned there were two additional yellow/red wire in there. i took them out and connected the rest, now everything checks out as supposed to, no 12V on 2 or 13 when ignition off and hot when ignition on, engine does not start without the ignition relay as supposed. The two y/r cable are cold when off and have 12 when engine is running, i found continuity to the red/yellow wires art the o2 sensor, so i am assuming that the lambda probe and probably a few other things did draw current when ignition was off. The parasitic current draw dropped now from 200mA to 7mA when ignition is off... I hope this should address the issue! Thanks for all the help especially to Rampage, now i have to figure our why the engine sucks 1qt of oil every 1000mls (100k mils ej22 92)...details.

sounds like the next thing to do, i can already see that the red/y wires in the wire nut are not directly going into relay and the wire gauge also doesn't match the wires on the Pin 2 and 13, so they must be going/coming from somewhere else.. i will investigate and report back.

thanks for clarifying, i double checked and the pins 2 and 13 on B48 are hot with the relay pulled, actually the car starts without the relay with the CEL on and rough idle, i didn't read out the error code though. So here is how the PO wired the relays. On the left hand side is the dodgy cable connecter he used. He spliced together the two yellow cables from the ignition relay, the yellow one from the fuel pump, two yellow/red cables (unknown to me) and connected them all with the black cable (new) that goes through a 30A fuse onto the hot pin on the alternator. As far as i can decipher the wiring diagram this is all correct, only the two yellow/red wires don't make sense to me...any ideas?

I am almost certain it is something in the ignition switch circuit that activates the ignition relay. I tested the drain over night and it did'nt change. If i pull the 30A fuse (SBF-2) the current drain disappears and the 12V on A2, A13 and the injectors disappears, with the fuse they are hot regardless of the ignition switch position. I have to hunt down Fuse no.16 and how the ignition switch is wired into the loom, it must be connected since parts of the ECU function (test connecters connected) do only work when the ignition is ON. What would happen if that diode after fuse no 16 is dead? could this lead to a malfunction of the ignition relay?

So this took me a lot longer to look into this than expected... but I guess that’s just life. I have checked pins 2 and 13 on b48, they are hot with the ignition off, so are the injectors and a few other sensors. If I pull that 30a fuse the pins are cold. So I followed the cables on the fuse and found that one side is connected to the alternator 12v pole and the other end connects 12v input at the ignition relay/ fuel pump replay as in the wiring loom. So then I thought that maybe the Relais is fried, but the pins stay hot when I pull the Relais. So this means that either the wiring of the relay is wrong, or there is something else wrong with the ignition in signal or the shut off signal to the ecu. I am puzzled..

thanks for the info on the ECU, unfortunate somebody bought it of the bay before i could act... I am using the Volkswagen automatic transmission so i don't use the TCU, going to check the pins later this week!

Thanks folks! i will look into all these suggestions, the fuse that i am pulling is an additional in-line fuse in the conversion wiring loom, i will check what pin the 12V input is connected to and if it is hot all the time, but i am almost certain that it is. What pin is the main power-in supposed to go to? I have already looked into voltage output on a few sensors in off position, i found that the VSS, the inhibitor switch and parking break indicator light all show 5V when ignition is on or off, i believe this should not be the case. However the current draw is 0.2A when ignition is off and 3A when on (engine not running), so i guess the ignition relay or at least parts of that circuit work properly.

Hi, first off, its my first post here, so please be kind if i am in the wrong category. My name is Andi, i have a VW Vanagon with an 1992 EJ22 most likely put of a legacy. I bought the VW with the conversion done by the PO and had to iron out some kinks in the beginning, now the car is running nicely. However, the battery (new) is getting drained when i leave the car in the street for a week. I have checked and the battery is getting charged by the alternator, so went and tested for parasitic current draw, and i found that there are about 200mA (0.2A) of parasitic draw. Reading up indicated that this is about 10 times higher than what is usually accepted as okay. So i went ahead and checked sources for the drain, I was able to figure out that when i pull the fuse for the ECU, the drain drops to 2mA, which is from the clock and the radio code. So th ECU itself draws the majorty of the current, i wen ahead and disconnected the alternator and the relays that are connected to the ECU, non of these had any impact on the parasitic drain. I am considering to try out a different ECU to make sure it is not just some weird defect to if (i read the rarely brake) but it would still be an easy test. So i am coming to my actual question, can somebody tell me what ECU is compatible with mine. The one that is in the car is a F9 22611 AA930 A18-000 RF6 I found one in the bay that seems to be very close but i wonder if it really is compatible: F9 22611 AA931F JA18-000 RK3 Alternatively, maybe somebody here has a functional compatible ECU lying around and would be willing to loan this to me, i would ofcourse cover the shipping and either way whether i keep it or return it, come up with a compensation.