Phugoid

I read the topics regarding "hesitation", but it seems to be the opposite problem. The "hesitation" they're referring to is a lag between pickup and pressing the gas. I'm talking about INSTANT pickup as soon as you breathe on the gas. I agree with Kevin...the light foot approach works well. Just hard to do sometimes in traffic. Reid

My 97 OBW has a very sensitive throttle while in 1st and 2nd gear. That is, at speeds in those gears that are on the low end (~1-2k). This is a manual transmission. Imagine you're in 1st gear and you take your foot off the gas...eventually, you'll be going about 5 MPH and doing about 800 on the tach. Now at this point, try to increase the speed. You have to have a VERY soft foot to increase speed without the JERK JOLT JERK phenomenon. Now, I feel that this is probably normal because I've driven many other cars with this same thing. But, is it in fact normal? Anyone know what causes it or if there is a fix? It's a real bother driving in traffic unless you're veeeeery good with the gas pedal. Thanks, Reid

Just took it up to the local Midas to get the brakes inspected. The front pads needed replacing. The wear clip was rubbing and making that terrible noise. He replaced the front pads, I paid him $86 and the squeek is gone....at least it was on the way home. Keep your fingers crossed! Reid

3 blocks from home today, my car started squealing like crazy. It's not an engine squeal, but it's proportional to speed. There's creaking, squealing, all sorts of high pitched noises. It sounded like it's coming from the left front wheel. I felt the rotor to see if it was hot, and it was very hot >220F because my wetted finger hissed when it touched. I checked the rear right too, and it seemed equally hot so I assume this is normal. It's possible it may also be proportional to turns and brake pressure too? This happened quite suddenly like I said, and it sounds absolutely terrible. Any ideas? Thanks, Reid

Good luck with the shop! Keep us posted!

Did they even make a Phase I 2.5 Turbo? I didn't think they did. Not trying to be a jackass, just wanted to know. Reid

I only recently bought the car, so I've personally never checked them. I have the Haynes manual, can you tell me which belts I should tension? Thanks! Reid

My 97 OBW (101k miles) will make a squeeking sound when I turn corners at low speed. This is a power steering thing I think because it happens even when the car is stopped. I've heard somewhere that loose belts can cause this? The squeek I'm describing is a much-quieted version of that car you see tooling down the road screeching along - except mine is PS related. Thanks! Reid

What signs did you see before your clutch gave up? Could you tell it was coming? How? Why or why not? Thanks! Reid

I'm going to replace the valve cover gaskets in my 97 OBW. I was looking at 1stSubaruParts.com and they have 2 sets of gaskets for the 2.5L. They have the Large, and the regular. They have: "All models, left/right - 2.5L, 96-98" and "All models LARGE left/right - 2.5L 69-68" Which ones do I need? Thanks, Reid

I bought the Haynes manual and it has given me the confidence to do the valve covers. Maybe next weekend. It has also discouraged me from attempting the oil pump job. We'll see how it looks at my next checkup (3k miles), and maybe make a decision then. Thanks for the help, Reid

I got a small break in the rain and popped in the new battery. I set my security system off in the process, but other than that it went smooth as silk. They wanted $150+ to do this at the dealership. I only paid $80 for the battery I saved $70 by loosening 4 bolts with my 10mm socket. That's some hourly rate, if only I could do that 40 hrs a week... Reid

I just got back from Sears with a new Die Hard Gold battery. It's raining out now, so I'll have to put it in when it stops. I also went to AutoZone and got the Haynes repair manual. I can't belive the amount of information you get for $17. Thanks, Reid

Sounds like Die Hard is the way to go. At what point do you consider a battery to be dead? I'm replacing this one because it dies after I charge 4 or 5 1700mAh batteries that go in my radio controlled helicopters. I take this to mean that the useful capacity is 5*1700 = 8.5Ah. This seems weak to me. Other than that it always cranks the engine just fine. Haven't had any cold weather experience with it yet though. It's 5 years old, so maybe this is just a good idea because of the age. Thanks! Reid

I couldn't find any info using the search, maybe someone with more experience can direct me? I'm looking to replace the 5yr old battery in my 97 OBW. Anyone have any brands they especially like? Thanks, Reid

Timing belt has already been done I know. Maybe I'll leave it alone. They wanted $400 to do it. No problems leaving this alone correct? I may look into doing the valve covers if they're easy. Thanks for the good replies, Reid

I had a checkup today at the dealer and they said that there's an oil leak behind the oil pump. This is on a 97 Outback Wagon with 99k miles. It's not serious, the last 3k miles, I lost less than a quart of oil. I know that I could leave this be and just pay extra attention to the oil level, but how difficult would this be to fix on my own? I'm somewhat mechanical, but I've never worked on my car before - just oil changes etc. Also, they said the valve covers were allowing oil to seep, but it was minor. What does this mean, and how difficult would this be to fix as well? Thanks! Reid

97 OBW 2.5 DOHC.....Averaging 24 MPG (US Gallons) with a fair mix of hwy and city driving. Reid

I'll check it out and get back to you. Do you/anyone else have any other ideas on what it might be, or things I should check while I'm under the car? Thanks again, Reid

Was your problem next to the headers? Right next to the engine? This rattle is definitely coming from the engine compartment. Thanks for the reply, Reid

My 97 OBW with 5MT (97k miles) has an unusual sound when depressing the clutch pedal in the lower gears. The sound is a metal on metal vibration, but not a grinding or anything. This only happens when shifting from 1st to 2nd, and 2nd to 3rd. Also, it only happens when I shift around the 3K RPM mark. If I shift at 2500, it doesn't happen, and if I shift at 3500 it doesn't happen. The noise occurrs briefly and only while the RPMs are in that 3K range. Also, if I engine brake down a hill and leave it in the 3K range, I get that sound with a little more consistency. This seems like a loose piece of metal being excited by the 3000 RPM range. Anyone have any ideas what might be vibrating? Thank you! Reid

Did you sign an "AS-IS" agreement before you took delivery? I'd be interested to know how far dealers are willing to go to help you if you've signed such an agreement. Or is the car still under manufacturer's warranty? Reid

I LOVE my "new" '97 Outback Limited. Great car. It's got just shy of 100k miles on it and is going strong. One question though... What controls the idling rpm? I've noticed that sometimes it'll idle at 1500 and sometimes at 800. Why would this change? My old car did this too. Thanks, Reid

I'm not sure yet about the connector. Over the weekend, I'll get in there with a DMM and start checking things out. Thanks for the link. Reid

Hi, I just found this site today and it's exactly what I was looking for. I just purchased a 97 Outback Limited and the windshield washer pump does not work. This is the front pump, not the rear. I'm planning to replace it this weekend and I was hoping to do it with a Subaru OEM part. The dealer quoted me $90 for this part. Am I being taken for a ride here? NAPA says they have a "one size fits all makes" version for $20. Does anyone know if this part will fit in the stock location? I searched the site pretty thoroughly for tips on how to troubleshoot and the replacement and I found some great info. The only question here is the part and maybe where to get it. Thanks! Reid