roadsubiedog

what about dry gas and octane boosters? after adding some my mpg improved from 32 to 37 mpg. also on my sons 84 gl leaking coolant ( headgasket ) we put in some Blue Devil and it hasn't leaked much since in last month.

ok, i'll check that out. thanks

how would that explain no spark coming from coil? sorry if dumb. just a layman.

84 Gl ran one day...next day won't start. checked ign fuse. even put in new one. test lighted fine. checked all fusible links. even exchanged them with my other good running 84 gl. checked both posts of coil and they test lighted OK but NO spark at end of coil wire when turning over motor. exchanged coil from good running 84 gl and same thing. power to coil but no spark. even changed coil wire. also no fuel pumping to fuel filter. even changed fuel pump. so with no spark and no fuel pumping does this point to the ignition switch? is it in the key? or can i check something else? i am just stumped on this one.

correct. it changes with speed of car and NOT engine rpm. it does not change with different gears. and as i mentioned before the sound is the same even gliding out of gear. fyi. i have new tires with only about 6000 miles on them. the brakes checked out fine. the sound seems to be coming from somewhere in front not back of car. the clutch was done 60k ago . thanks

don't hear it at all when idling. hear it when car is rolling whether in any gear or even when in neutral going at any speed. the sound increases or decreases with the speed of the car. the sound decreases slightly when i push in the clutch pedal but i am confused since i hear it in gear or gliding in neutral.

i'll get right on checking those things. the tb was changed 6ok too when the headgaskets were replaced. i do notice a very slight knocking noise from the front of motor that goes away after the engine is warm. it goes away after just a couple minutes. thanks for the advice.

i posted an earlier thread on this noise and suspected brakes but they checked out fine yesterday. when i got this 99 ob 7 years and 140k miles ago there was a barely imperceptible noise that rose and fell with engine speed. it has been getting louder over the years. it sounds like a dragging sound that goes up and down with engine speed. however, you can still hear it if i put it in neutral and glide down hills. it still goes up and down with engine speed even in neutral gliding. the funny thing is this. if i push on the accelerator in just the right way the sound almost disapears???? i know how hard it is diagnosing a problem without test driving it but i would like to get a couple ideas before taking it to a mechanic. the mileage is about 250k. manual tranny. all fluids have been checked and fine. new clutch 60k miles ago.

i have to wait til sunday to look at it but am expecting the worse since i have owned the car since 2005 and have driven it 140000 miles ( 99% hwy) without even looking at brakes. got blaster, brake cleaner ready but need to get clamps and lube. i'll post when i see condition of pads.

ok i'll check that. thanks

the last time i checked the pads over a year ago they were measured less than 3/16th of an inch. in the haynes it says the brakes will be making a high pitched whining noise ( when pads need to be replaced)but mine is making a lower sound like dragging noise. the discs are still nice and smooth. i will be replacing them next weekend but want to know how serious it is.if i can still drive a couple hundred more miles.

99 OBW front discs are getting hot but the rears are OK. have plenty of brake fluid.there seems to be a slight dragging noise.

the switch is no longer clicking from the tail to headlight setting. i took the switch out. i will check the bulb connections. one of the low beams has a lot of water in it but was working ok before they all went out . ( condensation?)

we used Blue Devil headgasket sealer and it has worked so far. ( keeping fingers crossed.

headlights don't work on 84 gl. tailights worked until i started playing with the headlight switch and then fuse blew. checked fuses and fusible link. they appear fine. even changed them all. high beams work if i hold in turn arm on steering column. but tailight fuse keeps blowing if i play with the headlight switch. i took the switch from behind dash and see that all the connections are soldered, and the switch goes round and round without clicking from tail to headlights. my question is before i try to find a new switch can i bypass it somehow and have the lights and tailights on all the time?

thanks all/ i have never pulled a motor before so you have to multiply the time by 10. it always takes me a minimum of 3 times longer to do something on the car. do you suggest i also replace anything else like seals, oil pump? etc. it's really a good running motor. t i've got the old "How To Keep Your Subaru Alive " manual.

my son has a 84 gl with a bad headgasket on the right side (pass). it's leaking coolant to outside. oil is fine. is there enough room to take head off without removing motor? a guy at his work said he can put something in the radiator that might seal the head. not sure about the name but it costs 60 bucks. should we try that first?the motor only has 162,000 mile on it. thanks

thanks. the water pump was replaced but i'll have to speak with the mechanic to see if he put a oem belt on and new idlers.

i'm coming up to 60k miles since i had timing belt replaced on my 2.5 99 outback when we had headgaskets done etc. can i go a little longer? i'd like to wait until late spring. that would be about 65k. should i also have everything like tensioners and pulleys replaced? the engine has 248k on it. what is your experience in this matter? thanks

thanks. i'll definately keep my 99 and put a 2.2 in it when the time comes. I just want a good backup bc of all the commuting i do. I'm looking at a 1992 legacy soon( for $1000). also a 1994 legacy but it has a tranny problem but it's only 400 dollars.

thanks for your suggestions. I've had 7 subies. 4 of them 1984's which i think are great. one has 311k ( weekend driver ) the other has 162k( sons) and one died at 277k. the last one was a show car with only 49k on it. 2 1982's not so great and a 1999 outback which i like a lot bc of the ABS and cruise and smooth ride.. the headgaskets were replaced almost 50k ago and the car is still running well ( knock on wood ) total miles around 240k. there are a lot of blown 2.5s around this area .tahoe-reno but people want a lot of money for them. the engine swap sounds like a real good idea. a guy in reno will do it for me for 500 bucks plus the engine and other parts.just for future research. never had a 90-94 . that sounds like a good idea to look into. i drive 20,000 mile a year just to go to work. thanks everyone for the helpful suggestions.

Looking for my next best Subaru and don't want another 2.5 with head gasket problems so am looking for the best year model with the 2.2 motor. which year do you think was the best?

went to pick npull and of course they didn'thave any 99's or subies with 2.5 motors. but i took the front brake line off a 94 mazda, only an inch longer than my clutch hose. worked great . not bad for 4 dollars and change and sweat and a bruised knuckle.

the hose has a pin hole in it. and no fluid in the master res. i had to take the hose and the metal line to the master off bc the 10mm fitting on the inside is frozen solid. i tried almost everything including heat. if i get it apart i might just replace the hose and go from there. thanks

yesterday pedal stuck to floor. I played with it and then it would work about 5- 6 times and then stick again. when engine off the pedal works normally . it goes into gears smoothly both on and off. only indication of problrm was a week ago when it started chattering a little on take off. the cltch was replaced 45k miles ago when i did the head gaskets. what do you think the problem is? the haynes manual suggests about a dozen problems but i was wondering if anyone here can give me a more likely problem. i also seen on the repair manual section that a USMB posted a procedure that you can access the clutch and parts without removing the tranny. would that possibly apply in this case? thanks in advance.