roadsubiedog

no luck at picnpull. 11 vehicles from 95-99 . 10 were automatics. the driveshaft from the manual was gone. will try car-part.com again. tried it the other day and they only offered the front or back and not the whole unit. I was told to get the whole thing even though I only need the front part because the whole unit is balanced. if I just replace the front of the driveshaft don't I run the risk of vibration issues?

did everything suggested. I think it is not the wheel bearing. both the axle and the other bar with the boot have excess play in them. not sure if that's normal. the other side was tight for comparison.

gloyale I agree. the vibration is most likely from the recent used wheel and tire. no vibration before install just a couple hundred miles ago. .

I read in how to keep your Subaru alive that a worn wheel bearing should have play all around. mine is only at 3-9 . there is no play at 12-6. is this right? im sure if I brought it to shop they would suggest both axle, ball joint, and wheel bearing replacement. also tranny, wheels and motor. ha ha.

ok. thanks all. I looked at everything else but really don't know how to see if a problem exists unless if it is obvious.

manual says to check play at 3 and 9 o clock and 12 and 6. a lot of play at 3 and 9 but none at 12 and 6. checked the other side and no play at all. is this the wheel bearing if there is no play at 12 and 6 and an axle problem? I just noticed a vibration at 55 mph. it goes away at about 52 or 57 mph. its only at about 55 so that's why I started checking. I just changed the wheels so im suspecting a balance problem. but what about the excess play at 3 and 9 oclock? wheel bearing? if so how much could this cost ?

just got back from tire pro and the tires are on the correct side. the psi and tread was checked and they are correct also. I guess since the vehicle has 265,000 miles on it and has spent all it's life in snow country, it was time for it to go. i only found 2 match vehicles at pick npull but wont to get chance to get there til Saturday and if the drive shafts are still available. i'll report back when everything is done and test droved. thanks again everyone for your help.

wow. that gives me more options. thanks.

Fairtax4me thanks . that puts my mind at ease. Imdew. you posted that 95-99 L will be compatible. I should of also asked if it also has to come from a manual tranny like mine ? I measured mine before going to pick n pull. I have 10 matches at my pick n pull for 95-99 but only one L. the rest are a couple brightons, 2 LSi and the rest are outbacks. you are saying that they wont be compatible? just the L? I assume the 9 others must be a different length or configuration.

just to be on the safe side im taking it to one of the best tire shops to see if I put them on the right sides and its only a couple miles away. I started it up and the stands and put it in first and second and there were no noices. both wheels spun at first and then only the passenger side. is that OK?

thanks everyone for all the feedback. ( That is the reason I became a gold subscriber recently ) it has to be a 95-99 legacy L or limited , right? for a match. the Outback for those years don't match? mine is a 1997 legacy L with a 2.2 and MT. I have to wait til next Saturday to go to pick n pull.

ive got it on 4 jack stands. after I take the shafts off and cap the tranny could I just start it and put it in 1st or second and idle it to see if there is any other damage. or this may sound unsafe because of vibration and I would be better off to take it for a slow test drive?

I changed all 4 tires 3 days before. when I bought the car it came with 4 snows on wheels with only one winter on them.( the owner told me that and he had the receipt for tires ) on the tire there is an arrow with direction of travel on them so I think I put them on the right sides. the car drove real smooth for about 250 miles before this happened. it may be possible that I put them on wrong. I was referencing the arrow on tire. I was thinking the same thing. do you think I should just put the summer tires back on after I replace the shafts and sell the winter ones?

I did that and found the drive shaft broke at the UV joint coming out of the tranny. I posted a new thread on it because of the major failure.i hope I didn't damage the tranny. I turned the front wheels and did not hear any clicking or clunking. can I remove the drive shaft except the part going into the tranny and test drive at slow speed? I know if I take the male end out of the tranny the oil will drain out. I asked on the other thread if I should replace the whole shaft or just the front part and would it be OK to get a replacement from pic and pull? its a 1997 legacy limited with a manual. can other year shaft work with this if they are the same length? thanks in advance.

yes, out of tail of tranny. should I replace the whole shaft or just the front half? also if I get one from pic pull what years would be compatible with a 97 legacy limited. with manual tranny?

front right shuddering at start up to 20 mph and then smooth. I assumed it was the inside UV joint on right axle after reading the trouble shooting guide in manual. on way home heard a snap and bang and a lot of whining. pulled over immediately and called tow. toniite put on 4 jack stands and discovered that the front joint of drive shaft right at the tranny is broke clean off. turned the front wheels and heard no noise either in neutral or in gear so not sure if any tranny damage. also noticed broke inside boot on tie road on left side but don't know if related. can I take this front drive shaft off and test drive it at low speed to see if any tranny damage? I should leave the part that goes into the tranny so the oil doesn't drain out, right? I just want to test drive it. it will go, right?

next night it started shuddering, shaking on right front wheel area from stop to 20mph and then smooth at hwy speed. every time I started from stop it was like that until I hit 20 mph. the shuddering felt like I was going over a rumble strip. it would let up a little when I let up on gas. it drove smooth for about 60 miles at hwy speed and then something broke. a lot of whining and I pulled over and stopped. drove about 10 mph to get over safely and then it just locked up. cant see anything obvious. towed home. it went up ramp OK in neutral on tow truck but when he let it down off the ramp it would buck every revolution even in neutral. I looked underneath while he was letting it down and it seemed to be bucking along the drive shaft near the rear wheels. so I will put it up on 4 jack stands and try to determine the problem . cant see anything obvious. what kind of tests or procedures should I try to find out what happened?

ok guys. thanks. will check.

I took my 97 legacy in the snow for the first time yesterday and it seemed like the AWD was not working. is that possible and still shift and drive ok? ive had for about 6 months and it runs real well. it shifts fine and doesn't make any noises at all. I have a 99 outback that goes like a tank in the snow so I know the difference.

i'll check again. thanks.

5 speed manual. reinstalled tranny and everything seems to work fine except speedo. all electrical plugs OK. does not have a speedo cable. is the speedo on one of the plugs? it must be an electrical connection somewhere. this is a 99. what can I check? thanks.

he may have had a good reason for the robbery so give him a break. cant be all bad if he was driving a subie.

wanted to thank everyone who helped me here with my transmission removal, repair, and reinstall . over last weekend reinstalled. didn't take as long as the removal actually. the hardest part was adjustments of tranny jack to get the last inch in. used the motor studs as a reference and then it slipped right on. finished everything up on sunday and then took it for a spin and went thru all the gears a dozen times. smooth as glass. just have to bleed the slave cylinder and a few other non tranny and clutch adjustments since it has been sitting since January and she should be good to go. USMB members probably saved me 600-800 in labor for the whole deal and I probably got thousands of dollars of free mechanical education. this has given me the confidence to tackle almost any other repair job on my subies. thanks.

thank you. the last new clutch I put in stressed out the hose and it burst. I got home by shifting w/o clutch. by hydraulics being tired, does that mean I should replace slave? i'll bleed 1st and see how that goes. thanks

I would start with the simple. check and clean both battery cables at both ends.