turbodog

i meant i really dont like the ej... as like a whole.. its probably the most boring engine ever made by Subaru, way too common, nothing really special about it.. yeah they have more power and everything is "better" but it really lacks character compared to an old EA.... try going to an old flathead forum and just tell them to "LS swap" their roadsters because its so much better, lol. i really do appreciate the advise, and it has affected what im going to do, i just think its a fun hobby trying to make the underdog of underdogs shine, its nothing more the just a fun project for me to work on during covid. ive been looking for an 88 turbo for years, and this has alot of awesome things, like diff lock and lsd, so i figured this would be the best ea car to try this on.

yeah, im well aware of how bad this engine is, kind of the reason i want to try all these things. if you seen some of the other posts ive made, you would see im doing a whole lot of small mods that hopefully make it a tad more reliable.... ive had dozens of ea82 turbos, most of the mods ive tried separately with decent (yet small) results.. and yeah i know all about ej swaps, im not a fan of them at all... ive got plenty of ej cars in my fleet... if im going to swap anything into a gl, it would probably be a turbo honda k series on its side with a dry sump and i think your not giving the ea82 enough credit, ive already driven a few modded ea82t's across the country with my foot on the floor (redneck cruise control lol) in stock form i would agree with you fully that its not able to do so. and i think id take you up on that dyno run when im done, im really interested in whats gonna come out of this one

ive never came across one yet that wasnt the same splines . as for the 86 if it its not fwd, its about a 90% chance, red flag would be a button on the shifter for dr

pretty sure it was just the turbo dual ranges that were 3.7

yeah ill keep that in mind GD, though im still going to try something, maybe you'll let me throw it on your dyno, i got nothing but time to spend on this, there is not going to be a single stone unturned on this engine, im building it for high speed endurance, wot for hours at a time is a big possibility

hey lookie there! nice!

im not really looking for ppwer gains, im just trying to do every heat management trick i can... i know how fragile these engines are, so i figured the more under control the heat is, the longer the engine will last. if i dont gain power thats fine with me, but if i gain any, well... that's an unintentional side effect! this is also going to have the full exhaust heatwrapped. i did this on my last car...

sorry im a dummy and said F when i ment C ... whoops my bad

its 160 C not F , so if its that hot the plastic would be far from the biggest concern

im also interested in this

basically i'm doing every small reliability upgrade i can do, its about my 20th EA series car, im not necessarily looking for power, im just trying to do as much heat management as possible... back in the really early days i took alot of inspiration from this car, heat is a huge issue with these early turbo chryslers, and this one could hit 200mph... i tried doing this to one i built about 6 years ago and i can say it made more power then i've ever seen come out of one of those engines, thing was an 1/8th mile beast! ive been wanting to try this for years on a 88+ vane style subaru and i came across one, so i'm gonna do it!

this is great news, now i gotta order some and try it out! ill make a thingverse model for anyone elce wanting to do this, maybe a full parts list and rundown when its finished

oh yaaaasss thats perfect! i wonder if a 3d printed one could work https://3dprinting.com/products/filament/hi-temp/ seems like its stable up to 160F and dosnt soften early like standard filliments... hmmm i think i found the solution if this works

not much air gets moved under that manifold, and ive been thinking of doing just that. i wonder if it would be possible to block that passage and re route it new holes drilled and threaded with a fitting and hose.

uhh are you sure about that? heat doesn't just stop existing cause theres another form of heat nearby... like taking a blow torch to a frying pan while its on a stove top burner, saying only one of those is heating the pan

yeah, i know its attatched, but if i kept the majority of the intake cool, hopefully it only effects it a little, where the majority of the heat is only coming in threw the coolant rather then the whole thing heat soaking. maybe ill get lucky and the constant supply of incoming air will keep it cool! im also bypassing the throttle body coolant. radiators! radiators everywhere! lmao

you know, ive seen wheels before that had a universal lug pattern, and it was slotted, very strange, and i couldnt see why that wouldnt work on these too

so, as yet another thing ive been wanting to discus is a heat barrier under the intake manifold, seems like the availability of areogel is making this a realistic idea. i have done this in a late 80's Chrysler lebaron turbo, and i wrapped the turbo and used thermal tape on the intake and had fantastic results. and that was using just radiant heat shielding. what im talking about now is putting an areogel mat on top of the block, and then lining the underside of the intake with reflective radiant heat tape. know the coolant passes directly next to and under the manifold, that would also be insulated from the intake. word is that a areogel type gasket is also a thing being developed so bolted together parts don't transfer heat to eachother, its mostly for fuel tanks but i don't see why it couldn't be applied elsewhere. below is an example, im trying to take it a few steps further.

you know, thats your opinion, and its valid, but its not about whether or not YOU don't like them, and on an EJ/FA yeah, there is zero low down torque. there is no denying a turbo is better, but the topic at hand is a supercharger, and the fact is, its something different. there is enough info floating around various other car forums, the VW guys love em, seems like at a standard 2:1 pully would not be enough, so it would need to be a 3:1 pully and then the redline would be at 6K, the idea is just have regular stock levels of boost, just a bit more low end torque and nice supercharger whine.

things to consider would be needing a to plumb a recirculate valve so the air flow meter stays happy

seems like its the most possible way to supercharge an older subaru, the cfm lines up, the power loss is low, (i heard about 14 hp) V-Belt less heat around #3 cyl. and the thing costs less then $200 https://www.amazon.com/Supercharger-Compressor-Kompressor-Turbocharger-Remanufactured/dp/B08HRT6YPT keep it civil, searching for supercharger only brings up old flame war posts from 2006 with hardly any info, lets be productive this time

clearing the brakes is the next concern, im curious if it would work, but i would think using 4 15" spare rims would be more practical with skinny tractor tires

neat, though i still dont want that hot coolant going into a head.... ill make it like a buggatti, ill have 8 radiators, lmao

awesome! i dont think ill need to spray it, im going to be running this with its own fan attatched

yeah could just be bad alt! last loyale i had the alternator was bad putting out AC power and it fried the distributor.. was funny cause it passed the test at the store, apparently they don't check if its DC power or not