TomRhere

Throttle cable adjustment would be the first thing I'd check. There should be a slight amount of slack in the free part of the cable where it attaches to the linkage on the carb. If it's at the end of the adjustment, you can bend the bracket a bit, or space it out more towards the carb. Trying to picture the Weber set up in my head as it first was on one of my BRATs. Not doing to good on that, been awhile. Thinking I had to finagle the cable mount bracket some to get it right.

Webered Subaru's seem to like a bit more timing also. Anywhere from 10* to 12* vs. the stock 8*.

Yeah, getting boxes of stuff is nice. Just wish it didn't put such a dent in the funds at times. Got to pick up some sand paper yet, but I have everything else needed to do the heads. Once those are done, bolt them on and then finish engine assembly, hopefully by the end of the weekend. Maybe even stuff it back where it belongs. Not to sure if I can get it all done and ready to fire up though. We shall see.....

Just home from work, and was handed a box full of valves.

That made me laugh!!!!

A pic of each head with "Super Massive Crack" that the engine shop won't deal with, regardless of what I tell them. I can't catch a fingernail on either one, so don't think there's any issue with them. Did find two heads with no crack in either. Just so happens both are non-egr side. Oh Darn, can't do an EGR valve now. Bummer.... Added bonus of no broken bolts, or stripped threads in them. Was only in the garage for a short time today, not feeling all that good. Hoping it's just allergy related and not the start of a cold. Nose feels like I snorted a whole 1 pound can of Black Pepper.

All of that cleaning was done using small hand-held Brass wire brushes. Quite a few of them in total. Did use a Stainless Steel brush on some of the areas, but Brass for the most part. Kerosene was used for the wetting agent. I think it works fairly well. Didn't use anything to protect the engine, and kinda wishing I had. Some areas started looking a bit nasty, mostly due to residual road salt spray getting on it. Going to look into something to use this time around, not sure as to the "What" yet. If it weren't so cost prohibitive for me, I'd have things anodized in various colors. Haven't actually looked into it, just know I don't have the money to do so. When we build a "Wash-Down" Slicing system at work, any aluminum parts get anodized in a Flat Black looking color. Looks good to me. As of tomorrow, the HHR is paid off. YEA!! So I'll have a few more dollars in my pocket to be able to afford things like anodizing. But not for the engine I'm working on now.

Roughly speaking here, but 30 HP over a stock EA81 engine is nothing to complain about. I'd be "Happy" with it.

Before you loosen those 3 bolts, clean the area and spray some paint on. Match the paint line back up on assembly.

Axle info sounds right. You need the inner spline count of axle to match trans stub spline count. As far as EA82 crossmember into EA81 body, it can be done, lift or no lift. Lift does make it easier. Someone on here posted on how they did theirs, by modding the EA82 crossmember to move the mount holes for the frame rail attachment inwards to fit the EA81 body frame rail width. Cutting and welding was involved. Don't think they lifted the vehicle any. Trying to recall just who it was that did it.

Yes!!!!!!!!!!!! It worked. Previous pic is the engine I had reworked for the Wagon, and recently pulled due to it's anemic behavior. Hoping to have the replacement engine I'm working on now, just as clean and good looking. Maybe a different color scheme though.

Just testing to see if I can post a pic again. Was able to do a quote earlier today. Haven't been able to do either for a while. Recently changed browser to FireFox vs. Explorer

Not without doing wiring harness/ECU swap. Radiator support was reshaped to allow room for the radiator on the XT6's, also hood latch moved forward on the hood about two inches. (Wow.. I can quote posts now. )

Just placed the order for four each of intake/exhaust valves thru rockauto. DNJ Brand for both sets, with shipping, and discount code, 3974541036126750 , comes to just under $57.00 to my door. Another site wanted a bit over $80.00 for just the parts, same Brand. No make sense... Now, to get me some wet surface sandpaper and start going to town on the heads. Get ready for the new valves to arrive. Had thoughts of pulling valves out of other heads I have hanging about here, just to see what was what with them. But decided that I would be better off in the long run to just get new ones.

Nice bit of DIY repair done on the damage. Sure do miss having an XT6 to drive. My '88 Manual died from road cancer. Fun cars to drive......

Wow! Time flies by. Since that last posting in July, I've managed a few things, but she still ain't on the road yet. Work went into mondo overtime, as in 12+ hours a day plus 8 on Saturdays. So not much time left to do stuff around here. Did manage to get a short block all assembled with 9.5 pistons and new rings, new crank/rod bearings, and slipped some sleeves over the crank ends where the seals ride. Crank checked out good except for the wear where the seals ride. Pulled the engine out of the Wagon over the Christmas Holiday, and pulled the heads off. Turned the heads into the local shop for a resurface and valve job. Just picked them up last night, and wasted $50 in doing so. (Shop was loaded with engine work is reason for the time lapse). They found the crack between the valves and stopped all work on them. Wouldn't listen to me about the fact it's a non-issue. "We don't work on cracked heads". So,, as soon as I can get a set of exhaust valves ordered in, I'll do the heads myself. Didn't want that hassle, so opted for the shop They did try to do one exhaust valve, but it was to pitted to be of any worth. So I need new ones. Intake valves really look to be usable, but I may opt to get new of those also. So here in the next week or so, I should have a running engine back in the Wagon.

Pull the disty cap up/off. Look at the left side of the disty and you'll see a "C" shaped piece, mounted with 2 screws. Remove the screws and check the magnet that is under there. I have had one instance of the magnet being broke. Shattered actually. If it ain't in one piece, you won't get proper spark, if you get spark at all. Subaru part numbers for magnet are; Pre '84 491987401 '84 and later 491988711 Not saying it's your problem, but it's left me sitting on the side of the road once.

mmerlinn.com lists that bearing number in their catalog

partstrain.com has one listed for the '84 BRAT. NSK # WO133-1632753, $21.95 They don't list one for your '83 Hatch. Strange...... If your Hatch is 4WD, the above bearing will work.

Wiring harness for the rear has a few connection points in it. Behind the PS kick-panel, Behind the "B" pillar trim, Behind the front and rear access panels in the bed. The heater control panel lights have a wiring lead that's about 6" long and plugs into the main harness behind the panel. If the rest of your dash lights work properly, it may be that the panel lights have burnt out. Going strictly off 10 year old memory, I think there's 2 bulbs there. +1 on what Turbo said about the gauges.

Subaru #14035aa150 is what I have for intake gasket.

The Hill-Holder was on all early models of Subaru's with manual trans and 4WD. If you adjust the clutch, you need to adjust the H-H cable also. Former Member "Skip" said he adjusted the H-H cable on his so a dime would fit between the H-H return spring coils. Don't have my manuals handy, or I would post what is written in them on the procedure.

An '85 would have the D/R 5-speed trans. Look at the passenger side of the trans, towards the top of it, above the axle. There should be a shift rod attached to an arm on the trans. That is the D/R shifting arm for low/Hi ranges. If that isn't there, you have the Loyale's single range 5-speed. I have a pic of both side by side, but I can't post pics on here.

I have used a block of wood on a floor jack to help get the tie-rod to seat in the knuckle. The hammer method works a charm to remove a still serviceable tie-rod end.. Have had to lay a pry bar across the tie-rod itself to give that extra little bit of assistance though.

Neither of those engines are a direct swap into your vehicle. Different wiring and ECU for both. Then the Turbo one has different exhaust from engine back to the mid-pipe connection. The E-Bay engine would/could be a good short block, just swap your heads, cams, intake manifold over. Providing those parts are still viable. Be interesting to see the autopsy report of your current engine.