TomRhere

Speed-o reads to 120+ so it has to be from somewhere other than the US like , Hmmmmmm Canada?!?!? Snow, 120 + on speed-o-meter, EA-82 vintage Subaru Wagon,,, sounds like our neighbors to the North..

Happy Birthday to this thread.... It's now 4 years and 4 months old since Miles Fox posted into it...

I so whole-heartedly agree. Try going from a BRAT to an XT6, then back to the BRAT... Whole different world as far as drivablility, power, yada, yada.. Love driving the BRAT, but miss not driving the 6 when I'm in the BRAT.. Just a whole different world of driving ...............................

I have 2 FWD EA-82 axles here I could send your way to use until you get some new ones. No history on axles, was a towed to the house parts car.

Over-tightening the mount studs/bolts can and will warp base of carb. Could be your issue.... Also, gasket squished out into bore, causing plates to bind on it, throttle cable worn, throttle shaft slightly worn, weak return spring, any, or all, of the above................

Any body man/gal worth their salt could fix that.. We deal with that alot here too. Don't know if I could do the repair myself, but I've done some work like that, just not my cup o' tea.....

The resistor in the "light circuit" will also allow the alt to "charge" if the bulb should burn-out or otherwise blow. So I would suggest putting one in.

Just went thru this with the XT6, and it was that surge thing on the pump that GD mentioned. Couldn't see anything just peeking under the car, but I sure could smell the gas. Wasn't until it got to leaking worse that I could tell where it was coming from.

I see that alot... I wrench on vehicles for family, friends and co-workers of the Wife and mine. Just did a Topaz, needed new T-stat and one must pull the filter box to do so. Man,,,, was that filter nasty. Plus, there was enough acorn nuts under it to fill a 2 pound butter bowl. Owner is much happier now, she has "heat", and her car is running better. Gee, I wonder why?

Believe it, or not.... But ATF is a pretty good pre-wash hand cleaner. Gets all the really nasty stuff off fairly well, then use whatever else you like to finish the job. Me, I do the ATF, then Fast Orange, finish with some Dawn dish soap.

What Emily said!!!! If you really look at the routing of the 2 belts you'll see why that offset is there. Some one made a boo boo in the placement of one of the items that the 2-4 belt drives. Well now, can't change cam placement that easily. Hmmm, make different size cam sprockets, lots of re-tooling work there, equal lots of money lost, same with making different belts.. Much easier and cheaper to just change the position of the key way broach in the crank sprocket, hence the offset.

Clutch fan held on with studs/nuts is Factory AC. If it's held on with bolts, it would be Non/Dealer AC. I just don't remember which one is the shorter of the two.... And yeah, take the old one with you when you go, less headaches that way.

Just went thru this one my '86. I have extra columns here and looking at them it just looked like to much work to swap the key switch. So I opted to just pull the whole column out, swap trim pieces and install a good one. Not sure how one would pull the lock tumblers out of the switch, so I can't help there.

I took a look at a manifold I have in the garage. Yeah, it splits to both sides, left side just above the temp sensor, right side just above PCV valve. There are plugs there where the passges turn into the runners, but it don't look to easy to get them out. Somewhat of a slight attempt at putting a slot for a straight blade screwdriver, but it looks way iffy on the possibility of turning them out.

Nice!!!! And no, that is not the original carb. I have the tall (2-1/2") filter, cover and clips here. I could send them your way, or you can get one here. http://www.carburetion.com/Weber/weberpartsair.asp edit: Forgot about the stalling/flooding issue. You may need to put a Fuel Pressure Regulator in the line to the carb, $20.00 at a Parts Store. Some have had to, others haven't. Also, is there a fuel return line on the carb? Do believe you need one of those also. Not real familular with the 1st Gens, do they even have a fuel return line?

Thanks for the info......

Would this also hold true for an '82 BRAT that was originaly a feed-back carb model?

The EA-81 engine crossmember will not fit the 1st Gens, it's a bit wider. Miles Fox has tried this, and it didn't work out for him. (Where is that boy anyways)? Don't recall the exact difference, but it is wider. Now, on the other hand, if you do that 4" lift you mentioned, you can offset the blocks to fit both the EA-71 frame and the EA-81 crossmember.

Coolant from the weep hole on the water pump is a no-no, bad pump. There's 2 pumps for this engine depending on if it was Factory AC, or not or Dealer installed AC. If you click on his name and go to his Home Page you can see pics. I want a Trike so bad I can taste it. Maybe I build me one..........

20 MPG running a Weber is the SUX!!!! I don't know about the roof rack, but I'd be looking at stuff like tire pressure, brakes dragging, front-end alignment, driving habits, ignition stuff. I'm averaging in the high 26.x to low 29.x MPG in the Webered '86 BRAT, depending on how I drive it. And this is with, or was with, front-end issues. I've replaced alot of stuff under it, and she just seems to roll much freer than before, so maybe I've freed up some more MPG's, we shall see. This same Weber was on an EA-82 engine in my '82 BRAT, and I got consistant 29-30 MPG in it while it was on the road. Are you using a Fuel Pressure Regulator? Some have needed one, (like me), some haven't. On mine, (and in both BRATs), I could see gas dripping down the barrels of the carb while it was idleing. Putting a FPR in the line to the carb eliminated that. The fuel pump can over-power the float in the carb, causing the float level to be to high, leading to it over filling the bowl, making it run rich at low engine speeds.

I agree with heartless on the method of repair. Mines going to take much much more steel work to fix. That Black sound deadener stuff on the inside of the floor comes up fairly easy if you take a small hammer and just tap at it. May need a putty knife or simular tool in spots though. But for the most part it comes up easily.

Yeah, the low price told me something wasn't quite right, then the core charge threw up even more alarms. I had done a search for your post telling of price & no core charge, along with what the axles looked like and how tight the joints are. It won't be a pretty sight to behold if I go to get them and they aren't what they aree supposed to be. I'll give the horn pad another try during lunch today.

Okay,,, over Christmas weekend I swapped in the other steering rack. Also swapped steering columns so I can now have a key to start it instead of screwdriver. Pulled it out of the garage, then backed it back in so to let tires settle back in from being off the ground. Used the afore mentioned string method to somewhat align the front end. Put another set of tires on the front, again used ones but good ones. Took it out for a spin. Did have to pop the steering wheel off and re-center it as it was off a bit. BUT, the "I want to go left" thing is gone. I can relax my grip of the wheel and she goes straight on down the road. Been driving it to work this week, and she seems to be hella-better. Doesn't want to pull left, doesn't wander in the lane. But, it does feel a bit loose. It may just be that I've been driving the XT6 for the past few weeks, and I'm used to how it feels. Still waiting on a couple reaction rod bushings to arrive. Then I'll change those and the control arm bushings. Once that's done, it's tire and alignment time. Ordering both front drive axles thru Auto Zone, going for the GCK's that GD recommends. I can get them for $67.xx and $15.00 core each, or so the counter dude said. Believe me, they had better be what I'm paying for, and I told him that in a not so Mr. Nice Guy way.... I don't really like dealing with AZ. Do have a question here. How do you get the horn push pad back onto the steering wheel? I just cant seem to get the top spring clip to go on. What's the trick????

Thanks for the info on the Checker Relay, GD....... We now return this thread to your regularly un-scheduled Subaru problem. A couple other things I thought of today, Have your parking lights "on", and have an assistant hit the brakes. Do you "lose" either or both tail lights? Ifso, points towards a bad grounding of the light assembly(s). Actually, any "that light, shouldn't/should still, be "on" right now" type thing would point to bad grounding. In other words, any wierd lighting of lights = problem. Possible corrosion/bad connection in one of the connectors in the wiring heading back to the rear, and there's a few of them on a BRAT. 1. Behind the PS kick panel where the wiring leaves the dash. 2. Behind the "B" pillar trim panel on the PS. 3. Is found if you remove the PS rear lamp housing, the wire loom splits here to go to both rear lamp housings. 4. PS lamp housing. 5. DS lamp housing. Both #4 & 5 would only affect that particular lamp housing, or rather should only affect that side. Don't have color code for what wire is what , but I can get it. Got a spare wiring loom from an '86 out in the garage.

Check your fuses, check for battery voltage at the switch on the brake pedal. One side of that connector should be "hot" at all times, other side goes "hot" when pedal is depressed. Do you get the "Stop Lamp" warning light on the dash? That should light up if you have either one of the brake lights burnt out, or a bad connection to them. Just went thru the bad connection thing on mine when I swapped out the broken DS housing. Not real sure as to how it works, but there's a Stop Lamp Checker Relay in the circuit. Possibly something is amiss with that, but again, I don't know how it actually monitors the circuit. That relay is located behind the trim panel of the rear cab wall, and not real easy to get to.