TomRhere

quote Is there a web site that will match your bodies paint color and send you gallon or 5 cans of paint? I will spray the parts myself after I have mustered up a paint booth. end quote Any place that sells auto paint should be able to match the color, even make it match the sun-faded old paint look. Color code for paint should be on radiator support.

What I would do is remove the tube intirely from the engine, just so I could get a better look at the threads in the head. "If",,, they're not to messed up, you may be able to use a narrow straight-blade screwdriver to "chase" the threads. Patience is a requirement, slow and easy is the method. You are trying to remove the burrs on the original threads put there by the cross-threading. Once you have most of the burrs removed or smoothed down, try to start the fitting in. Baccaruda's suggestion of some down-force on the nut could be of benefit. Just be sure you have it straight with the threads, or you'll be right back where you are now. I have done that to threads in steel and in cast iron, so it should work on aluminum. Just have to be patient, and be mindfull of what you're doing, Can't be in a rush, nor can you go at it like you're chopping wood.

Been a couple years since I pulled the engine and related items out of a XT6, but I think I remember things right. All of the sensors are on the engine with the exception of the MAF on the air filter box. There's 2 big harness connectors under the hood, right behind the engine. Follow the engine side of those, and you'll find everything you need under the hood for the engine. I cut the main altenator wire at the fusable link box, thinking the other alt wires are in the main engine harness. You have to rip the PS and rear seat out to get to the ECU wiring. Wires run under carpet, and the fuel pump wiring is there also. Thinking the AC unit has to be pulled to get to where wiring goes thru firewall. There's some wiring that goes to the dash for things like check engine light, oil pressure, water temp, ignition and fuel pump relays, ignition switch (starter wire). I just followed the wires as far as I could from where they split off at the firewall pass-thru and cut them. You'll be splicing into those anyways. You'll need 2 relays and their connectors for ignition and fuel pump. There's a few of those located under where the console meets the dash Not sure right now which one is what, but it really don't matter as they're all the same, IIRC.... The wiring diagram shows a diode in the circuit(s) for the ign and fp relays. I don't know where it's located in the dash wiring, so I can't help you there. Adam, and subarubrat aren't using the diode in their rigs, and say they have no problems with running.

Other than the age factor, I don't think you would need to change the vent hose(s). One definately wants to change the supply hoses over to the FI rated hose. The return line hose(s) shouldn't really have any pressure on them, as the fuel is returning to tank and is just flowing thru the lines. Again, the age factor comes in on these as well. As for the question on the steel lines and how they run thru the vehicle... They pass thru the firewall, snake down the inside of the footwell area and run under the trim on the door sill on the lefthand side of the vehicle. The lines exit the interior under the back seat, or thru the backwall on BRATs Left rear brake line is there also. Right rear brake line runs down the rightside of vehicle in the same manner. I've ripped those lines out of an '86 BRAT, an '88 XT6, and an '86 Sedan that I've scrapped, all were ran the same way.

I agree.... Around here, that $230 might get you the intake and assorted goodies attached to it.

I replied to the other thread, but here you go. Prices don't look to bad to me. Found a listing for some parts here, http://www.1autobodyparts.com/productlist.cfm?model_id=622&make_id=41&browse=tru e&type=all

I'm thinking a partialy plugged heater core myself. You say that you flushed it, but it still could have some blockage. Get the engine up to temp, put heat setting on high, and fan on high. Feel both of the heater supply hoses. Should be somewhat cooler on the return hose, but not alot cooler. If it is way cooler, you have a blockage in the heater core. To slow of a flow of coolant thru the core will allow it to cool off to much, hence the not so warm heater. Both my current '86 BRAT and '88 XT6 run right at the 1/2 way mark for temp, even on the few cold days we've had here, temps in the high teens. In my old '86 BRAT, (RIP), after installing new 2 core radiator and T-stat, I could see the T-stat open/close on the gauge while driving down the road on real cold days, temps near 0*. That was kinda freaky when I 1st noticed it, like WTH is going on now???? Still had good heat out of it though. My '82 BRAT had an EA-82 engine in it, had good heat out of it too, even before having to swap in a new core due to old one springing a leak. Not a fun job.

Can't tell from the pic that GD posted, (just can't see the bracket clearly), but is there enough steel at the 2 mounting holes to slot them so there's less twist on the rear mount rubber? And GD, looks like you lost a nut in that pic....

There's a "T" fitting on the HH bracket, that's for one circuit of the brakes. I left that "T" alone, other than un-bolting it from the HH. I took another "T" and put the lines from the HH to that. I can snap a pic of it on Saturday if you want one. I still need to fab some sort of bracket to hold both "T"'s, but it's a simple fix.

Sounds just like my '86 BRAT, stock ride height, tires, ect... Shimmy happens around 55-60 MPH, plus I'm wearing out PS tire. Tie-rods, ball-joints are new, can find no play in control arm, or radius rod bushing. Had Son move steering wheel while I checked things out underneath. Found play in PS inner tie-rod, not a lot, but it's there. Has to be cause of shimmy. Waiting on a couple parts to arrive, then I'll be swapping in another rack. Inner tie-rods are available for replacement, but I have never done one, so can't say how easy/hard that is to do.

My oldest Daughter went thru something like this recently. Heather ran into a a guy, wasn't paying attention to the road. Anyways, a couple weeks went by and this guy starts claiming of neck pain, and that his car is not capable of being driven due to the damage from the accident. I took a picture of Heather's car, and found the guys car sitting at a local bar. Can't be driven, yeah right!! Got all the info from the Police report, so I had his addy and such. Took a pic of the rear of his car, and a wide shot of where it was sitting. He he he!!! Needless to say, he changed his story after his insurance company got a copy of the pics along with Heather's insurance, and my Lawyer. Only damage to Heather's '96 Pontiac GrandAm, was a paint scuff just above where the Black plastic grille inserts are. Didn't even crack one of those, and there brittle as all get out. Was some crumpling to the rollpan under the bumper of his car, but nothing to "keep the car from being driven". So yeah, pics and Lawyer are in order. Even if you just talk to the Lawyer to get a bit of help as to what to do now. And "crash bumpers" are only meant for parking lot type accidents, hence the name of 5mph crash bumpers. They don't do squat above 10 mph, 'cept bend.... If you didn't re-inforce the area of your vehicle where the bumper attaches, it's no stronger in an above 5mph accident than a stock crash bumper would be.

No, I didn't have an alignment done, as I was waiting to get new tires all around and do the alignment at the same time. I just cracked the lock-nut loose and spun the ends off, then the new ones on. Should've been the same as it was, but that don't mean it was right to begin with. Went back out to the garage and just sat there thinking on everything. Had Son come out and move the steering wheel while I watched everything move. Think I found my shimmy, and another reason for tire wear. Seems there is a very slight amount of play on the PS inner tie-rod where it attaches to the rack. Found that while holding both tires as Christopher moved steering wheel. Got a spare rack here, I'll check it out and swap it in if it's good.

Added update to 1st post.

Coolness abounds..... Thanks GD!!!!!

#1 cylinder is the front one on the passenger side of the engine, or front left as you stand infront of the car looking at engine. Pull the spark plug on that cylinder, put a finger against the plug hole, and bump the starter until you feel pressure on the finger that you have blocking the sparkplug hole. You are now at the compresion stroke for #1 cylinder. Turn engine over BY HAND until you see the timing marks, align the 0* mark on the flywheel with the indicator on the bell housing. Pull the distributor cap and note where the rotor is pointing. It should be pointing to the back of the engine, just to the right of the rear cap hold down, if it isn't, you have the disty in 180* out of time to the crank. This really sounds to me to be your issue, along with the fact that you are looking at the timing marks on the flywheel and thinking the disty should always be at #1 when the marks are lined up. Not true... Disty turns 1/2 turn to every turn of the crank.

Just finished cutting up a 2WD , and got a good look at that tube. Yeah, it un-bolts from the body, so repairs "may be" easier if you remove it. Then again, if rust caused that, maybe you won't be able to get the bolts out that hold the tube in.. When I 1st looked at the pic, I thought it might be a weld seam that broke. But looking at the one here, it don't look to have a weld in that area. As mentioned in previous post, weld some angle iron to the tube for a temporary fix. Just be mindful that the gas tank is right there too.

Just got it pulled out of the garage. Having a well deserved beer before taking it for a spin around the block. Both inner DOJ's have slop in them.... Holding axle(s) with one hand and inner stub in other, I can get a good (not really) twist in both DOJ's. Can't really distinguish any play in the outer CV's, but I know that atleast one is bad from all the clicking during tight turns. DS inner boot was blown, and I have a good coating of nasty stuff all over that side of the BRAT, atleast it'll help deter any salt accumilation this winter. Didn't look real hard at PS inner boot, but I didn't see any ucky stuff on that side either. Did notice that the DS tranny stub has more free-play in it than the PS one does. Hope that ain't a sign of bad things are going to happen here in the near future. Did have a DO'H moment. When one pulls the front "drive" axles out of one of these vehicles, it does help if you put the "range selector" in 4WD before you try to drive it out of the garage. Just doesn't seeem to want to go anyehere if you don't......

Hey GD, You happen to have an AZ part number for the front axle. Just did a search on AZ site and they don't list boo for an axle. Tried all EA-81 years, same return, not available, and some wierd un-heard of brand name.

Yeah, I was thinking DOJ just from reading different posts on here. Just seems to fit.. But the low-speed clunk had me thinking possible ring gear too. Just now got BRAT into garage, letting snow and ice melt off it a bit. Been out there since daylight finishing up cutting apart an '86 EA-82 Sedan. I'll be heading back out there in a few and see what is what. Got an AutoZone just down the road, but I know they won't have an axle on the shelf. Store is only about 10 years old, and older Subarus are a rarity in these parts. I'll check out their web site and see what I can find.

Years ago, I knew a guy that worked for Ziebart. The stuff works, BUT, only if the vehicle is totally free of rust to begin with, and properly prepped for the coating. Any dirt, or existing rust, will just lead to rusting, hidden rust at that.

atleast I'm hoping that's what it is. '86 BRAT 4WD D/R 4 speed Stopped to get some go juice Thursday after work. When I pulled out onto the road, I spun the tires on wet pavement, nothing new there... The exit of this gas station is up-hill and you're making a righthand turn pulling onto the road. The PS axle has been protesting tight turns in the past few weeks, been putting off repairs until I get garage cleaned out some. Anyways, Get up to speed and head on towards home. About 10 miles later, I had to slow down for a car turning. WHOA!!!! Vibrations up the yingyang, not using brakes, just let off the gas to slow down. What the 'ell?? Get her back up to speed, and now it's vibrating at anything over 50 mph. This is not good, still have about 15 miles to drive yet. No vibration during accelleration, just when coasting or let off the gas. Had to stop for a stop sign. Definate click/clunk with each rotation of the tires at anything under 20 mph. Man, I don't need this right now. Get going again, luckily traffic is light and I can drive it at 50 mph. Now, I'm in the hilly part of my trip, about 8 miles of up and down hills. Vibration is reallly picking up in intensity running these hills. Drove the last 4 miles home in 4WD, roads were wet from it raining so I figured I was good. Not so much vibrating with it in 4WD, but it's still there. I'll be heading out to the garage here in a bit to make some room to get the front atleast in on the cement, and hopefully out of the wind. I hope it's just the axle, and not anything like tranny problems. Don't have spare 4 speed, got a 5 speed D/R, but don't have all the goodies to swap it in yet.. Don't have extra axle either, but I do have a set of outers I can put in and just drive it in 4WD. It's that or see if I can fix the wiper on the XT6, again! It fubared on me yesterday. Just ain't having good Sooby luck here this week..... Update; This ties in with this thread on tire wear also, http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=66233&highlight=Excessive+tire+wear Since pulling the front axles, and driving in RWD, most if not all of the vibration that's been there "all along" in this BRAT has disappeared. Still does a shimmy over 65, but I don't usually get up to that speed. She just seems to go down the road better, but still has that slight pull to the right. OK, on Monday 12-4-06, I headed for work in the BRAT. We had an overnight snow that coated the roads with real fine powdery stuff, a little slick in spots. Remember, I only have RWD now, and BRATs are not gifted with much rear axle weight. Made it about 10 miles down the road, when I hit a spot of snow covered compacted ice. WHOA CHIT!!!! Had issues with making the turn onto this road, and had a heck of a time picking up speed, just couldn't get any traction. Doing about 40 MPH, and making some head way. Thinking about some of the hills I have to go over, and how I ain't getting any bite here... Hmmmm... Driving on a flat straight stretch of road when all of a sudden, I'm sideways and on the wrong side of the road. What the 'ell!?!?!? I didn't move the wheel or nothing to cause this, it just happened. Scared the crap out of me for sure. Especially when about 10-15 seconds later a Semi went by me headed the other way. The County line was just ahead of me, and when I got there, the road had atleast been salted/sanded. I got a bit more traction after that. Made it to work with no further problems. Now, today, I have the BRAT in the garage, and have been looking, checking, bouncing, prying, everything I can think of on the steering/suspension items. This is what I've found so far. 1st, I drove over to the Factory I used to work at. Nice large flat parking lot, with 4 double-row parking lanes, and 2 single rows. Pull in, set BRAT to head across the lot and do so letting it drift as it wants to. It pulls to the right, no matter which way I headed across the lot. Steering wheel is about the 7 o'clock postion. Ok, head for the house and put it in the garage. Take a string and run it across rear tire heading for the fronts and check as to how/when string lines up with front tire. Not even!!! I can see atleast a 1/4" gap on the trailing side of the PS tire, and a 1/2" gap at the front of the DS tire when the string just touches the opposing sidewall of the tires. I rolled the vehicle forward about 1/2 revolution of tire and rechecked. Same thing.... I still can not find any slop or play in any of the steering or suspension parts. So,,, I'm just going to adjust the tie-rods ends to square up the tires, and center the steering wheel. Then see what the heck happens..

I'd look around the oil pump area, see what you can find. Could be bad pressure switch or gauge sending unit. Posible leak around filter itself. There's a couple of plugs and caps on the pump that could leak also. edit; The lines on the crossmemeber are for the power steering. Don't own an Auto so don't know how tranny coolant lines run. But you're loosing engine oil, not tranny fluid or PS fluid, Right? So that would knock them out of the question anyways...

NAPA sells, (or used to anyways), a product called MAC'S Radiator Cleanser. Stuff is great!!! Directions say to run it, (after flushing system and filling with plain water), for 20 minutes, then flush again. I've left it some systems for a day or two. And at one shop I worked at, I left the stuff in one of our chiller systems for a week, you should of seen the grunge that came out of that thing. YeeeUuuck!

:clap: :banana: :burnout: Wish mine looked that good.

PM me your email addy and I can send you some pics.