TomRhere

originally posted by GD In truth the same problems with the old Hitachi carbs are still a problem with the SPFI. The added complexity of the "emmissions" equipment makes the fuel and ignition algorithms in the ECU software overly complex. It muddy's up the water such that it's hard to pinpoint the exact component that's failing or out of range. In the world of "reliable" fuel systems, less really is more for this 80's stuff. The ECU's in the newer cars have become complex enough (faster processors, etc) that they are able to do much more diagnostic work and provide more accurate feedback to the mechanic. That, and the advent of water-proof under-hood connectors has helped a lot to prevent often difficult-to-find corrostion related problems, and ground issues of the past. AMEN Brother, AMEN!!!!!

Can't tell from what you posted, so... Have you checked the right side out yet? You may have a problem on the right side, which gives you the pull to the left, as it's the only brake working now. Hasn't been that long ago that I tossed a brake pad out of the PS of my '86 BRAT. Hella noise from that wheel well area, and sound of something skittering along the road afterwards. Aaauuggghhhh!! No Brakes!!!!!

Hear you loud and clear on the rust............... On the other hand, I've drove to Central Eastern Illinios to get the '82 BRAT. Central Wisconsin to get an '84 BRAT. The '88 XT6, '86 BRAT, and '88 GL10 Wagon came out of Ohio. Ain't boo around here for older Subaru vehicles.

+1 Got an '88 GL10 Wagon 2WD Auto here. Plan is to do Manual tranny swap and convert to 4WD. Have the rear suspension stuff, collecting the tranny swap pieces, getting close on those parts.

Gut the interior, then weld some 1" 16 ga square tubing in on the inner panels between the inner/outer body panels to give it some rigidity before cutting the roof off. If you don't want to use the rear doors, you can extend the square tubing thru the doors to insure they stay shut. Use more tubing to make a framework for the floor of the bed so it's level front to rear, and to make a frame for the rear window of the cab. Then skin it with some sheet metal. Hardest part will be making the top of the bed look right, (think the trim area of a BRAT's bed).

I'll have to check the strut top on the PS to see if maybe it was put in wrong. I've found other things done on this BRAT that wasn't right, mostly on the PS, so maybe... I have new control arm bushings, and one set of radius rod bushings, so I'll swap those in, and get another set on the way for the DS. (Why they sell the radius rod bushing seperately instead of as a pair like one needs is beyond me. I ordered 2 thinking a set each side instead of 2 being just for one side. Grrrrrr...) Those parts were bought for the rebuild of the '82 BRAT and have been laying around for awhile. Need to get this fixed so I can get new tires all around before the white stuff starts falling. Sloppy steering and slippery roads don't mix to well. Thanks for the input.

'86 BRAT bone stock as far as suspension and tires, (185/70-13 M&S). Back in late June, early July I put newish tires on the fronts. I aslo replaced ball-joints and outer tie-rod ends, (old ones were worn and showed some sloppiness), on both sides.. Did not notice any slop or uncalled for movement in the lower control arm or radius rod bushings or in the strut caps, so I didn't swap any of those parts.... I drive roughly 370 miles a week to/from work, so I've put a couple thousand miles on the tires since mounting them. Now, I'm seeing the outer edge of the PS tire is worn down, almost to the belt... Not good.... Looking at the front of the BRAT, both tires appear to be standing the same and both pointing straight ahead. Very slight pull to the left when driving straight on some roads, none on other roads, (thinking crown of the road has something to do there). I do get an oscillating shimmy in the steering wheel if I drive anything above 65mph, more of an annoyance than anything else. I have noticed that it gets real skittish if there's any ponding of water in the road from a heavy rain. That gets scary at times, and tells me something is amiss in the front end. Thought I knew steering/suspension stuff pretty good. I can usually locate issues and do the repair needed. I also do a pretty darn good job of eyeball aligning the steering stuff before it goes on the rack. I'm stumped here... Got any ideas???

I've had pin-hole leaks in the 90* hose under the altenator, and in one of the heater hoses on the backside of the engine. Both were kinda hard to locate. I've also had pin-hole leaks in the radiator, can be real "fun" to find those, 'specially when it's between the cores of a 2 row one. If any of your coolant system hoses are 4 years or older, I would reccomend changing them, just because they're at the limit of worthyness. Another thing to check, would be to make sure all clamps are tight.

I removed the H-H from my '82 BRAT, using the "T" fitting found on the H-H bracket, and another "T" from a scrapped car. So yeah, it can be done. If you want to keep the H-H on yours, I have a good one here I can send your way.

Also, one should "Never" use an impact on bearings, they don't like it.

If one does not care about ever using the tubes again, they can be removed without pulling manifold. You have to bend the crap out of them, and I think I had to cut one or two, but they can be removed with manifold on.

Best thing I've found for cleaning the "smell" out of a car is Murphy's Oil Soap. It's actually for cleaning wood paneling, furniture, mill-work, but works great on other things. Leaves a pleasant fragrance in the vehicle. Pine Sol will work, but it's rather strong and lingers way to long afterwards, atleast for me....

As soon as it gets light enough out, I can get you the dimensions. Got a junk tank out behind the garage. edit; Here's actual measurements; Front to rear = 29-1/2" overall including 2" lip at front, 1-1/2" lip at rear. Side to side = 24-1/2" overall including 1" lip on DS, 1-1/2" lip on PS. There's 3" above the lip of the tank all around, 5-1/2" below lip behind the rear diff, and roughly 3-1/2" at the front, with less where diff and axles are located

+1

'86 BRAT GL D/R 4spd, 32/36 Weber on an EA-82 carb manifold, timing @ 10* BTDC. Stock Y-pipe with custom rigged piping afterwards, (needs replaced bigtime). I've been tracking the mileage for some time now, since around 2-06. Most of the driving is done on back roads, very little in town driving. I do a 64 mile round trip to work every day. For the past 6 weeks, I carry a passenger, a co-worker. For the most part, top speed is 60, but usually 50-55 MPH is the norm. I've seen anything from 22-23 MPG at the begining, to 32 MPG, varies from tank to tank. I've been playing around with timing settings, and tweaking on the carb, but haven't tried different jets, yet. I've also changed driving habits some. Not sure I'm getting the same "topping off of the tank" though, as the gauge needle will stay above the full mark longer on some fill-ups then others. All ignition components are new, oil changes done at roughly 2500 miles and using 10/40 oil. I've replaced the tie-rod ends along with ball-joints, still need to have alignment checked though. Got a few issues still with the front-end, so I'm waiting to get that taken care of before alignment. Need to replace the axles all around also. Don't have one good boot on any axle, front ones are clicking now. Thinking I can achive 35+ MPG once I get suspension/steering cleaned up, and get a better exhaust system under it. New tires may help also, I know it sure needs them before winter gets here.

Thinking it should be a "plug-n-play" swap, but can't say for sure. Seems that all the optional wiring is in these vehicles from the factory, just need the components for what ever mod you want to install. No clue as to how the steering column control switch is mounted, but I'll be finding that out myself. My '86 BRAT has cruise, (although it doesn't work), and I need to swap steering columns. Got a fubared key switch, upper bearing in the housing squeaks, (very annoying), for starters.

http://www.rockforddriveline.com/replacem.htm

And only one end of the "shield" is grounded. If you ground both ends, you might just as well of used plain wire.

Kinda recall a thread from a year or two ago about this subject. IIRC, there's a jumper wire that tells the ECU if the car is Turbo or not. If that is true, and if the connectors are the same, it should work. Swapping ECU's isn't a big job. Disconnect battery..... Couple screws to drop the panel below steering column, 3 nuts to loosen that hold ECU, slide it out, un-plug connectors, reverse to install. I would give the wiring harness a good looking over to check for damaged wires or components first. You could fry the replacement ECU if something is FUBAR..

Here you be.... http://www.suberdave.com/subaru/HTKYSA/

My turn..... '86 BRAT Build date unknown at this time, may have that tag here somewhere....... Body has gone to scrap yard. VIN - JF3AU53B3GE500148 Eng ID - 912990 '86 BRAT 12/85 VIN - JF3AU53B2GE501078 Eng ID - 428702 Pretty darn sure this is a replacement engine due to the numbers difference, and especially after reading GD's note on the difference in pushrods. The ones in this engine have a cap on them = solid lifters.

:burnout:

Wow!! Talk about someone having a death wish.... That's pretty close to 1,000 pounds, (if not more), of engine/tranny hanging off the end of that way over extended custom-made lift boom. Beats any of the crazy stuff I've done over the years doing engine swaps. Am I right in thinking the car is an early '60's Chrysler product? I'm thinking the rear suspension of the BRAT isn't none to happy with that load either.....

The adjuster is on the backside of the backing plate. It's a bolt and locknut. Loosen nut and turn bolt to adjust. Bolt moves a wedge between brake shoes. Our 18 year old Mayor seems to be holding his own against the Elders of the Politcal Brother/Sisterhood. I haven't really kept up with all of the ins-n-outs of his reign, but he's doing the job.... edit; You asked aout bleeders, and I wrote about adjusters. That's what I get for trying to think before I finish the 1st cup of coffee. The bleeders are on the back of the backing plate, right near where the brake line attaches to the wheel cylinder. Hopefully, they break loose for you and not twist off. That's always been my luck with them anyways...

Engine running "lean" on that side could be another culprit.