TomRhere

This trick doesn't always work, but I've had some success with it. Get a prying tool behind the bell-crank for the throttle cable, be it a screwdriver, prybar, jack handle, hammer claw, ect., ect., ect.... Apply a small amount of force to the area that needs some help, and slowly turn nut off. Keep a watchfull eye on what the nut is doing, and go lightly with the force at first. May take a couple of tries to get it to turn off straight, may take a bit more force. If it looks like it still wants to come off crooked, tighten it back up, and try it again, maybe with a bit more force. Just be patient in doing this, that is the key to it all. Sometimes though, you're fighting a loosing battle from the get go....

I'll 2nd that.... On the upper radiator hose. I found that the hose fit when doing the EA-82 carb intake swap with Weber on my '84 BRAT. Had same issue you did GD, with the hose being to close to the fan shroud. I just bent the lip of the shroud to clear it, making sure I didn't cause it to hit the fan blades either. When I did the same swap on the '86 BRAT I'm driving now, I had more room at the shroud for some reason, and didn't have to do any modding of the shroud. Maybe a difference in Manufacturing of the hose, don't know. Just gotta love the Lego-ness of these cars.....

Sounds like you have the T-belt/cam gear out of time for the PS. Easy to do, so don't feel bad about it. The pics and text in the books are misleading, as they show both cam gears at the top for timing, but you need to rotate engine 180*. If you didn't mess with the DS T-belt, bring the 3 lines on the flywheel back around so you're on the center one. These lines are seperate from the ignition timing marks and look like l l l . Check position of the DS cam gear. It should either be at 12 or 6 o'clock. You need to set the PS cam gear 180* opposite of the DS cam gear. If you messed with the disty, you'll need to re-time it. This is where you set it to TDC on #1, and check to see if rotor is pointing towards the #1 tower on the cap.

Look more for uniformity than a set number. But 110-120 would be a good range, some have reported more. Can't remember right now what mine where when I did a test on it. If one side is way lower than the other, chances are you have the T-belt off a tooth or two for that side.

Well, apparently,,,,,, I have the wrong rotors, but the right calipers. Was wanting to work on the BRAT over the 4th, but Mother Nature and Father Time conspired against me. Anyways, driving home tonight, I gets about 1,000 yards from my drive and hit the brakes for the Stop sign there. Sudden jerk of the wheel followed by a couple of clunks, and the sound of something tinkling down the road. Meanwhile, brake pedal is heading to the floor, FAST, and I ain't slowing down. AaaaaUuuuuuuuGggggggg!!! I quickly hit 1st gear and let out the clutch, bring me to a fast crawl. Luckly, no other cars on the road, so I made my right turn towards the house. Got in the drive and killed the engine while in gear. I stopped 3 feet from the front of the XT-6. E-brake was non-functional... Not good.. Did a quick look-see of the front wheels. I have no outer brake pad on the passenger side. Oh Joy!!!!!! Haven't pulled wheel yet, so not sure if inside pad is there. No brake fluid showing anywhere, so that's a good thing for now. Means I didn't blow the caliper apart. Looks like I'm stuck driving the XT-6 for the next few days. Darn.....

Try this fix by Skip 1st... Gotta scroll down the page a bit. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51716&highlight=starter+relay

No real clue on origin of brake parts. Bought/traded things for this BRAT, and this is what I have. Been sorting things out as I go, and this was the 1st, "that ain't right", thing I've come across. 86subaru, (Jim Wood), is who I got it from, and he got it from somewhere on the Easternside of Ohio. Jim didn't do anything much as to wrenching on it. I don't think that the person he got it from is a Memeber on here, so I can't ask questions of them. (edit) How would I go about finding if these are vented/not vented calipers? Can someone give me a measurement to go by, as in space between the "U" of the calipers. Brakes have been iffy, (but work), on this BRAT. They're not like the '82's or '84's were/are, they just could be better in my opinion.

Had to swap some different tires onto the front of the BRAT due to a belt busting in one of the "old" tires. When I pulled the tires off, I found that the brake rotors were solid ones vs slotted like my other '86 BRAT had. Hmmm. I thought everything from '84 on had vented rotors on the fronts. Got some new slotted rotors here, along with new brake pads for it. Now, do I have to change calipers also? I'm thinking yes here. What about the mount bracket for the caliper? Am I thinking right that someone said that EA-82 brake parts will fit on the EA-81? (Got an EA-82 Sedan here that I'm striping out). I remember reading of things on this, but I couldn't find what I wanted using "Search". Probally not wording it right. Been collecting new parts to rebuild the frontend on this BRAT, just waiting on balljoints now. Need to know if I need new calipers also. Thanks......

So I should swap the pedal mount assembly in my '82 then? I had issues of the clutch slipping at times, and was thinking the PP was weak. Maybe it was just the cable binding and not letting it engage properly. The BRAT is gutted right now, and I have an assembly out of an '86 BRAT. Might as well, eh.

MAC's Radiator Cleanser, (found at NAPA Stores), is some real good stuff for flushing/cleaning any enclosed water system, Be it your vehicles cooling system, or a portable water chiller like we had at my old job. Stuff works!!!! Plain and simple........ Directions say to let it circulate for 20 minutes or so, but I have left it for a couple days on some real nasty looking systems. Looks almost new inside when you do the final flush of the system. Ran it in one of my cars for a week with no problems. Man, you should of seen the gunk that came out when I flushed everything. Ucky to say the least......

Me thinks you have a very dirty carb there. A rebuild is in order. And yeah, there is a float level adjustment. Can't say what it is at the moment though, but I may have that info out in the garage. I'll look for it in a bit.

Thinking more along the lines of clogged jets myself. Possibility of float level set to low causing it to run out of gas, comes to mind also. Does it only do it when running down the road, or will it bog down when you free rev it in neutral also?

PM sent to you Brian.

Yeah, they send the wrong bolts, (to long), in the kit. But a trip to your local hardware store takes care of that issue. I didn't like the "stepped" look and feel of how the adapter pieces fit the manifold, so I used a grinding stone to "blend" the port opening in the adapter and manifold. Don't want to remove to much from the front of the manifold port, or "you'll hit water" as they say. Gotta be mindfull of the water passage there.

Sorry about that... Sure thought one could resize the pics if they were downloaded. Yeah, I think I can do a .zip file. I'll give it try after work tonight. Just got back in from Chicago, (left Sunday), need shower/shave and get ready for work. When I have the .zip file done, anyone that would want to host it on their site can send me a PM.

Thinking I have all of the info right, so it's time to let everyone see the write-up I did for swapping an EA-82 carb intake and a 32/36 Weber carb onto an EA-81 engine. http://s29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/Weber%20swap%20on%20EA-81%20engine/ Seeing as photobucket resizes things, you may have to download the pics to be able to read some of the text. The BRAT runs way better, MPG is 30 or better, and room for improvement there as I have some front suspension/steering issues to take care of, parts for that are here, just need time. Enjoy...

You may also want to look at this. http://s29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/Weber%20swap%20on%20EA-81%20engine/

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=59487 Scroll down to reply #12, tells of things needed done to put EA-82 into EA-81 vehicle. With the Turbo, you'll have to mod the engine crossmember to clear the up-pipe. Or, find the crossmember for a Turbo EA-81 and swap it in, those are sort of hard to find really, but they're out there. You won't have to worry about the flywheel stuff in that post seeing as you're going with the 5 speed.

http://www.carburetion.com/Weber/weber.htm Should find what you need there.

Thanks Shawn. Was trying to get a good show of things related to this thread. Using the OSB was the best contrast I could think of at the time. Also don't like hogging space on the Board, so I got the photobucket site to do things like pics on.

Gravityman; I'd put the Battery and fuel cell in front of the Radiator, don't need no extra heat on either of those. Had simular thoughts on location of radiator for the ER-27 swap. Me, I'm thinking more of putting radiator where the tailgate is, and fab a louvered replacement for the tailgate itself. Not to worried about use of tailgate, I have "other means" of transporting items that would need that function available. If I have to fab a scoop of some sorts to direct air into radiator, so be it. This is going to be a form/function type of retrofit, not looking to win any awards for purtyness.

(quote Turbone) One thing about black, it sure shows the imperfections of the body. I'm finding dents and dings I never saw before:o (end quote) Yeah, Black shows everything... I love a Black car or Truck, but I'd never re-paint one that color again. To much time spent on getting panels straight and smooth, only to find you missed a spot AFTER you do a color coat. Black shows everything, magnafied atleast 30 fold...... But they do look good all nice and polished..........................

http://s29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/X-members/ Above link is to pics of all 3 X-members. The EA-81 is the complete system, then the EA-82, and ER-27. Measurements are as follows; Hole spacing, front to rear; EA-81 = 5-9/16", EA-82 = 5-9/16", ER-27 = 6-3/8". Hole spacing, side - side; EA-81 Front = 31-1/4", Rear = 29-11/16" EA-82 Front = 32-7/8", Rear = 31-15/16" ER-27 Front = 33-1/16", Rear = 31-7/8" A couple pics were taken of the x-members on-top of one another, just to show differences better than telling the law of the ruler. All measurements are to the nearest 1/16" and are not to be taken as word to build from. Let me know if you need more/better pics.....

Gravityman,, I have all 3 x-members out in the garage. I'll get some pics taken of them and get them up on my photobucket page. Can tell you that the front/rear spacing in the XT6 x-member is much different from the EA-81/82 holes. It's also shaped somewhat different than the EA-82 is.

Here's a pic of the differences between the EA-81 and -82 manifolds. http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/Weber%20swap%20on%20EA-81%20engine/EA-81EA-82Manifold2.jpg Here's the EA-82 in my '82 BRAT, before the Weber. http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/82%20BRAT/underthehood.jpg Here's how close the engine is to the frame rails. http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/82%20BRAT/EA-82framerailroom.jpg To put the EA-82 engine into an EA-81 vehicle is as follows; Pull the dead engine out of the vehicle following normal engine pulling methods. After engine is pulled, you need to move the Hill-Holder valve towards the firewall the distance of it's mounting holes, (front bolt in rear hole). Or, get another Tee fitting and remove the H-H from the system. Your call there. You also need to tweak the front most brake line on the bottom of the Master Cylinder, towards the strut tower. Be careful, not to much. This is to help disty clear the brake lines and stuff located there. You can use the EA-81 flywheel on the EA-82 engine with no problem. Only thing you need to do is sit one flywheel on top of the other, align the mounting holes and bolt them together. This is so you can transfer the timing marks over to the EA-81 flywheel. Make sure you do both the ignition and T-belt marks, it will make your life so much easier down the road. Use the EA-81 clutch stuff with the EA-81 flywheel and bolt that all back together. Keep all of the EA-82 clutch stuff around, so you can do the D/R 5-speed swap later.... When you're ready to drop the engine in, loosen the bolts for the brackets that hold the motor mounts to the engine. This will help you get the studs thru the crossmember. Once the studs are thru the X-member you can re-tighten those bolts. Before you tighten the lower nuts of the mounts, make sure the engine is centered between the frame rails. Only about 3/8" clearence as you can see by the link above. You need to swap over the temp sensor and oil pressure unit from the old engine. It's much easier to install engine if you pull the disty out 1st. Helps it clear the Master Cylinder during install. Miles Fox pulled the MC when he did one. Either way works, but disty is easier. Just be sure that you have engine at #1 TDC and mark disty prior to pulling it. Then get engine back to #1 TDC and drop it in after engine is in. You'll need the EA-82 Y-pipe. Fits the rest of the exhaust like it belongs there. You'll need to lengthen the 2 small wires from the coil to the disty, and you'll want the '85-'86 EA-82 disty if I recall things right. You'll need to lengthen the fuel lines to the carb. The EA-82 lower radiator hose fits the lower EA-81 radiator nipple like it was made for it. And you'll need another EA-82 lower hose for the upper radiator hose. http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/Weber%20swap%20on%20EA-81%20engine/EA-82lowerradiatorhosePre-trim.jpg http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/Weber%20swap%20on%20EA-81%20engine/EA-82lowerhoseasupperhose.jpg You'll have to do some trial and error with the throttle cable and it's mounting. The person that installed the engine in mine cobbled things together, and it really didn't work right. Or, you can spin the Weber around 180* and do it like I did here in my EA-82 manifold with Weber on EA-81 engine swap. http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/Weber%20swap%20on%20EA-81%20engine/Step9throttlecablemount.jpg http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/Weber%20swap%20on%20EA-81%20engine/Step8throttlelinkage.jpg http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/Weber%20swap%20on%20EA-81%20engine/Step7Altbracketmods.jpg I think that covers it. Feel free to ask questions.