TomRhere

At my last job, we used Zep 45 rust penetrant. Seemed to work okay, but I'll stick with PB Blaster. And yeah, that Yeild stuff was great.. Would like to get another can or two of it.....

You need battery + ran to push button, then out to small terminal on starter. Would be best to have a fuse in the battery + wire, but I can't say what amp it should be...

One of those lines is for the afore mentioned vacuum modulator, it goes to the intake manifold, or gets Teed into another vacuum line. The other is the breather tube for the tranny, it just gets attached to something to hold the end of it, with the end in free air. Sorry, really can't say much more on the kick-down. I just don't know anymore about it.

I'm not real familular with Subaru Auto trannies, but here's my guess on it. Really sounds like your kick-down isn't working. The kick-down is what shifts it into a lower gear when you nail the gas pedal, (aka passing gear). On some makes of vehicles, if it gets dis-connected, it will hold the trans in a lower gear until engine RPM's hit a certain speed, hence your 4.5g shift from 1st to 2nd. Best guess I have....

I don't know the details, but MilesFox swapped a carb engine into a Turbo car. Ran engine as is with carb, swapped fuel pump to carb model, left all the Turbo/MPFI wiring intact. That's about all I know on it. Maybe do a search on it, think he posted on here about it.... Maybe he'll see this and chime in with details....

Clean out your PM box.... I can't send latest reply... Says your in-box is full....

That connector, and the fusable link box are on the top of the check list. I've slated Saturday as the "Fix the BRAT" day. Has a few other issues I need to get repaired also. 'Preciate the info though.

Just a bit more info, nothing really major though. Haven't had time to dive into it, but things seem to be okay. Did find out yesterday, (nice warm 60*+ out), that if I'm not running the heater fan, the gauge will sit right up by the 14 volt mark. If I turn fan on, it will drop down towards the 10 volt mark, regardless of what speed the fan is on. This is going by the dash unit by the way. So, I started playing with all the various knobs and switches after I got home, just to see what happens on the gauge. Headlights on, drops a tiny bit, just noticable. Hit the brights, maybe drops a tiny bit more, but not much. Okay, lights off, hit the wipers, no noticable change, even on hi. Hmmmm. Hit the fog lights, gauge drops, along with idle speed. Not sure of wattage/amp draw of these lights, but they're bright ones, real bright. Ok, everything off, gauge reading near 14 again. Hit the heater fan on low, gauge drops to maybe 11-12 volts. 2nd & 3rd speed no noticable drop. Hi speed however puts it back down near the 10 volt mark. Hmmm.... Ok, fan on 2nd speed, (where I normally have it), headlights on low beams, gauge sits right around the 12 volt mark. Brights will pull it down about the width of the needle, to maybe the 10 volt mark. Driving home tonight, I didn't run the heater fan, just cracked open the slider and had the heat controls set to heat. No lights, wipers, or anything else on, gauge stayed near the 14 mark, the whole drive. Forgot to look at gauge anytime I had to use the brakes, so can't comment on any changes there caused by the brake lights. So, my guess is some funky connections in the wiring harness, be they power, or be they grounds. Time to start checking things out. Actually, it's time I spent time working on my stuff rather then working on everyone elses stuff. To much time spent on other stuff than my own..... It's gotta stop for a bit.........

In theory, cavitation isn't good... I haven't had any tranny problems related to it, and I've owned many auto trans over the years. Might give a call to a local tranny shop, see what they say about it. Maybe they can tell you a way of getting the air out. I don't know of one myself, other than driving the vehicle.

They don't come with T-stat. Best way to install one, is to remove the lines from the radiator and run them to the cooler. Alternative method, is to install the cooler after the radiator. To do this, you leave supply line going to radiator as is, then you run the return line from the radiator to the cooler then to the tranny. The top line on the radiator, should be the return line. Fuel line hose will work, length needed depends on where you mount cooler. I do my best to get 2 clamps on each connection to insure that hose won't come off. Also, be sure that hoses are ran so they can't be caught and pulled off.

Hard to say really without actually hearing it. But I would say it's coming from the torque converter, and it's, cavitation. Happens sometimes when doing fluid changes. The TC loses some fluid, and doesn't re-fill completly, leaving a small air pocket in there. The vanes inside of the TC are spinning thru this air pocket, hence the buzzing. It should go away on it's own, may take some time to do so though. Can't say how long as it is up to the tranny itself. I've had it clear up in a day, and other times it takes like a week or so. Not a whole lot you can do, other than drive it. Need to have fluid circulating so it can expell the air.

Sad to see a rolled Subie for sure, but it did show you how the exhaust is run.....

I think they only come in 3 sizes, you'll want the small one. It will be more than enough to keep the fluid cool. I've installed many of them on various models of 4X4 trucks, many of which are used to plow snow. That's hard on tranny fluid, heat wise. When mounting one in a vehicle, I like putting the connection tubes in the downward position. Doing so, will insure that you're filling the entire cooler, and not creating an air pocket in it. Should be able to find one at your local parts store. Thinking them small ones have 3/8" tube for connection to tranny lines.

Find a 2WD manual, and take the spring from it. Need to take note how/where it was installed on the 2WD model. I ran my '82 BRAT without the spring, no issues. Didn't even have the cable that goes to the HH, was missing when I bought the BRAT. What the spring does is, it pulls the throw-out bearing away from the pressure plate just a wee-bit more, and helps take-up any looseness in the system when you are not pushing on the clutch pedal. That spring was more important on the old linkage type clutch operation, without it, the linkage could fall apart. Not good...

Some related info in this thread, http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=53066 I still haven't solved the issue, been sorta busy around here. Going to dive into it shortly though.

I could see the Wife driving one of those, but it's not for me.. Do like the looks of it, but I prefer my BRATs and my XT-6. Welcome to the Board. Best place to be if you're a Subby owner, or wanting to be one. Couple other good sites out there too though, but I like this one. Lots of good and knowledgable people here.

Various ways of doing so... I use a small screwdriver, slip it between crank and seal, then pry seal out. Got to go easy and be careful that you don't scratch the crank though. Another method is to drill a couple small holes into the seal, screw in some sheetmetal screws and use them to pull the seal. One can also rent/buy a seal puller. But that gets back to the same method of using a screwdriver really.

What, you need to space the carb up abit? If so, jameng.com has spacers available, they're 1/2"-13mm or so in thickness. P/N 99005.120, comes with a couple gaskets, goes between carb and the adapter.

Yeah, they send the wrong bolts in the kit for the EA-82 engines. Lots of Members have posted here about that. Luckily, the local Hardware stores carry what's needed..

Never could understand Subaru's reasoning behind putting freeze plugs in that area. Good that you found them.... You still need to flush the oil system out though. Multiple oil changes won't remove all of the anti-freeze residue, and you need to get that stuff out of there. The crank bearings don't like anti-freeze, period... Rislone makes a flush for the oil system, and it's good stuff, albeit pricey in my opinion. Myself, I use 3 quarts kerosene with 1 quart oil. Pour it in the crankcase and run engine until you can feel some heat in the upper radiator hose. Shut off engine and drain oil pan. Re-fill with your coice of oil and change the filter.

I bought one of those adapters thru WJM. It has a thermostat in it, and regulates when/if oil goes thru cooler or to engine. So, it shouldn't over-cool the oil. And Turbo or not, using an oil cooler is good for the oil.

I believe that's the same kit I bought a few years back. As far as spacers under the carb, yes there's room. But, you need to use the shorter air filter unit. Here's a pic of the set-up on the '84 BRAT I had. http://photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/84%20BRAT/?action=view&current=84brat010.jpg Weber is mounted on an EA-82 carb intake, and the disty is the Hitachi model. Spacers under the carb are from jameng.com p/n 99005.120. They're 1/2" tall, and I used 2, but not real sure now if it's really nessecary to do so. Currently running this same Weber/intake on my '86 BRAT, but I spun the carb 180*, and flipped the throttle bell-crank over. Only have 1 spacer under carb on this set-up. http://photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/White%2086%20BRAT/?action=view&current=flippedlinkage.jpg Hitachi disty on this one as well. Using the EA-82 carb intake will help in the performance area, as it has a larger port opening for the carb. http://photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/White%2086%20BRAT/?action=view&current=EA-81EA-82Manifold2.jpg I'm working on a write-up on what needs done to what on the manifold swap. I can answer questions if you have any, or try to atleast....

Blue spark is best. Bright Yellow is still a good spark. If you get down into the dull Yellow or Orange colored spark, you could be getting into a problem. Could lead to miss-firing at times.

Yes, it is possible for the bolts to loosen some. Got to be careful though, that you don't over-tighten them either, as you can split the gasket at the bolt holes. I've seen that done many times, my Brother is a good one for doing that. His theory, if it still moves, it ain't tight enough... Another reason for the pan gasket to leak especially after replacing a gasket, is the area around the bolt holes in the pan get a dish shape to them. When that happens, you don't get a good squish all the way around the gasket, just where the bolt holes are. You need to make sure that the entire sealing lip of the pan is flat. You can use a small piece of wood or steel, that'll fit under the lip of the pan, and flatten the bolt holes back down with a hammer. Carefully, I might add. Been awhile since I've looked at the oil pan on a Subby motor, not sure if there's a ridge in the center of the lip or not. If there is one, don't flatten it, it's there to help seal the gasket.

I've read on here where some have dented the PS pump to clear the choke on the Weber, when installing one on an EA-82. I'd be a little leary of doing that, myself... Others have spun the Weber around to clear the pump. I did that myself. I swapped an EA-82 carb intake onto my EA-81, and installed the Weber. Doing so, causes interferance with the Disty, just like with the PS pump on the EA-82s. So,,, I spun the Weber around, and flipped the bellcrank for the throttle cable. Here's a pic of it. http://photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/White%2086%20BRAT/?action=view&current=flippedlinkage.jpg The throttle return spring goes down to the Alt bracket, not sure where it would go on an EA-82 engine. There's about an 1-1/4" of spacer behind the bracket that holds the throttle cable. Not sure if that would be needed on the EA-82, but it might, cable length will determine that. Just another idea......