TomRhere

Actually, on a 4 light set-up, all 4 bulbs are on when the Brights are on. Check for voltage at the bulbs with switch on in the normal position. Can't say which wire color to check, but one is low, one is bright, other is ground, this should be a Black wire, may have a colored stripe. The headlight switch controls the grounding of the circuit, whether it's thru relays or not. So you should have battery voltage at the lights, even with lights off. If you have voltage, and the switch is on, but no lights. Try a ground wire on the ground side of the lights. If they light, you have something wrong in the control circuit. If they light when you try the ground, you can wire in a switch between headlights and ground to operate them until you find problem.

Altenators will do that. Don't mean thy're bad, or going bad. They'll just do it.. Really irritating when it comes over the stereo speakers..... edit; Another cause could be either a vacuum leak, or an exhaust leak. Both can cause a whistle of sorts.

To forking cold out!!! -1 actuall temp, wind-chill in the -teens... This will have to wait until tomorrow at the earliest. Yep, I'm a wimp!!!!!!!

I like how you did the face plate of the stereo, just curious as to how it's connected to the unit itself. Got the gears turning here......

Ya know, I hadn't paid much attention to that Red light in the gauge until you posted on it. Thanks for bringing that little tid-bit up... Both times I started the BRAT yesterday, the light was on for a brief moment after releasing the key. So I'm thinking I'm good there. Plan for today is to pull the extra '86 dash down out of the rafters, along with all related wiring, and do a careful disection of the wiring harness, just to see how the dash unit is wired into the system. Maybe I'll find a problem area, maybe not. But atleast I'll know what connector(s) are involved, and where they're located in the BRAT. That way, I can atleast check them out in the one I'm driving. Who knows what the previous owner(s) did with the wiring. I'm fairly sure that Jim (86subaru) didn't mess with it, but what about the guy he bought it from???? The fog lights were added, and there seems to be some other "extra" wiring bits here and there. Time to dive in, and see what's what. I'll post back with findings.....

http://photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/White%2086%20BRAT/?action=view&current=EA-82lowerhoseasupperhose.jpg Link to pic of an EA-82 lower radiator hose used as an upper hose on the EA-81 radiator. I discovered this when swapping an EA-82 carbed intake onto an EA-81 engine while doing a Weber swap. The SPFI and carbed intakes have the T-stat outlet in the same location. Wish I had a pic of the complete hose to show where I cut it, but I don't. Just lay the hose in there, and move it around, you'll see where trimming is needed. Don't get to carried away with trimming on the end that goes to the radiator. Note how close the hose is to the fan shroud, and you'll see what I mean. I really don't think I did any trimming there though.

Here's a couple pics on how I did mine. Yes, the Weber is on backwards, but I wanted it that way... Would've worked for you also, less problems with power steering pump. In this pic, you can see where the PCV valve is located and the hose coming off it. Look just below the choke housing. Click on pic to make it bigger. http://photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/White%2086%20BRAT/?action=view&current=flippedlinkage.jpg In this pic, you can see how I used the factory Tee on the PCV hose, and one of the valve cover hoses. I then ran a smaller hose to the opening in the air filter base plate. http://photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/White%2086%20BRAT/?action=view&current=Weberized.jpg Check your local auto parts stores for a small air filter unit. You should be able to find one that has a hose fitting on it. This will fit into the free end of the other valve cover hose. Sorry, no pic of that filter, didn't have one at the time pic was taken. Look at the jack and you can see the other valve cover hose just hanging there. Yes, I have the hoses run backwards from what the factory ones where, but it don't make any difference. You just want to move air thru the engine, direction of flow doesn't matter, just as long as it does flow..

Ok, remembered the DMM today, so I did some quick checks on things. Engine idling, nothing on but the clock, I'm reading 14 volts at the battery, and off the alt. Gauge is showing just above the 12 volt mark, and I do mean just. Turn the heater blower on high, headlights on Brights, fog lights on. Gauge is reading 8 volts, and I have 13 volts on both the alt & battery. Turning the fog lights on, pulls the idle speed down quite a bit. Tach reads normal idle at 1100 rpms or so. Really don't sound like it's that high, but I'm sorta used to V-8's. With the fogs on, idle drops to around 700 rpms. Shut off all the accessories, take another reading, still showing 14 volts on the DMM. Shut off the engine, and read the battery, I have 13 volts. The DMM I have doesn't read voltage in the .00 range, just the 00.. Think I got took when I bought it, the Salesman told me it did DC voltage fully, I haven't seen it do so. Anyways, looks like I have a faulty gauge, or the wiring to it. I have another '86 BRAT dash unit, maybe I'll swap it in over the weekend and see if I get a better reading from the dash gauge. I'll also throw a few extra ground wires on, just to see if it'll help any. Somewhat relieved that I know the alt is charging now, just wish I could rely on the gauge though. Atleast I can run down the road with my brights on now. Don't need to be thwacking no Deer!!!!!!!!!!!

There's enough give in the hoses/lines for the A/C that you on't have to dis-connect the lines. Just un-bolt compressor from engine, and any clips/straps holding hoses. Then sit compressor off to the side. May need to tie it off with some rope, to keep it from wanting to get in your way.

Well, plan was to bring my DMM home and do some checking. Ha!!!! Come quittting time, I heads to the time-clock, only realizing that I forgot to put my street glasses back on, (still wearing the safety glasses). Trip back to the work area and swap glasses, head to time clock. OK, now I remember that I don't have my work sheet for the day, back to the work area to grab it. Of course, I leave my thermos sitting where I sat it while retrieving work sheet, so another trip to the work area. OK, punch out and head to BRAT, and head on down the road. Ummmm, for got something didn't I? Yep, DMM is sitting on top of toolbox, waiting patiently for me to grab hold of it. Well, when I realize this, I'm more than halfway home. Auuuugggggg!! Oh well, tomorrow is another day. Besides, there's a cold drizzly rain falling. Yeah, I have a 2 car garage, but it be full. Couldn't even get the bumper of the BRAT in there, if I tried. So all work done is outside of the garage, not today. Skip, GD, thanks for the in-put.... I'll be sure to let you and the rest of the Board know what I come up with. I have had issues in the past on other BRATs with the fusable link box, and it's connections. So that's on my check it list. Gauge did appear to be indicating higher on the way home though. Still, it's only in about the 12-13, maybe 13.5 range, and not where I know it has been in the past. Could just be the gauge, but I want to be sure. Steve, I do plan on adding a couple heavy gauge grounds also. Can't hurt anything to do so.

For the last week or so, my charge indicator has been hanging out in the 8-10 volt area right after starting the engine. It will rise to just over the 12 volt mark after a few minutes, but that's about as far as it will climb. OK, alt swap time I figured, so I swapped a used one on last night. No change. Ok, no clue as to how old battery really is, so I swapped the new one out of the Xt-6, same deal no change. Was getting dark, and colder out, so I called it quits for the evening. Tossed another spare alt and some tools in the '86 BRAT, and came in for supper. Hopefully, things behave themselves until I can work on it again tonight after work. Going to pick up some new battery cables for it, and start checking things out if those don't help. Old cables don't look the best, especially where the cable attaches to the battery clamp, could be the problem.... But I'll be sure to check the grounds out, and maybe add a couple more. I know how these cars love more grounds on them. Don't need to have the BRAT dying on me on the trip to/from work. I changed jobs, and now do a 34 mile one-way trip. That would be a long cold walk, or rather large tow bill.... I don't need either..

If you are talking about the 90* hose from water pump to heater supply tube that runs under the intake manifold, I found an alternate replacement. Subaru parts are hard to find in my area, so I did some research. A Gates #28446 hose will fit with some trimming. Here's a pic of the 2 hoses. http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/White%2086%20BRAT/oldandnewhoseforheater.jpg

Just to add to this. If the nuts holding the tube to the ports don't want to break-loose, like on mine. Just cut the tube and weld/braize an allen head bolt into the tube. Sorry, can't remember the size bolt I used, but the head of it just fit inside the tube.

Carb it is, I was thinking so. Not saying this is your problem, but it could be. Seen it on various Makes/Models of carbed engines. Possibility of to much gas here. Either the float level is to high, needle valve worn, float is defective, piece of junk holding the power valve open. All will allow more gas into bowl than what's suppose to be in there, except the power valve, (it'll want to drain the bowl). Extra gas is going to the 2 rear cylinders, due to the slant of the engine mounted in the vehicle. Gravity takes effect here. On V-8's it'll fowl the 4 center plugs, In-line 6's = 2 center plugs, same on in-line 4's. Just stands to reason it would effect the 2 rear plugs on a flat engine. Just my .02.

Next question. Carb, SPFI or MPFI?

Yep, what he said.. Been there done that with buying the wrong cap/rotor. Auuuughhhhh!

'88 XT6 AWD 5 speed, Black/Grey

Naaa. There's just to much work involved in putting that into your Wagon. Just have it sent to my house...

Yeah, the Primary in a Weber is bigger than the Secondary in the Hitachi, not a lot, but bigger. If you do go the Weber swap, swap on an EA-82 carb style intake also. It has a larger port opening in it where the carb mounts. And in this case, bigger is better. I've done this twice now, and love it. Currently working on a how-to. Another alternative, is to swap on a SPFI set-up. Better than the Weber, but involves doing some wiring. There's a write-up on that floating around on here, somewhere.

No particular order here, but things I do when I pick up a vehicle, regardless of Make.. Pull each wheel and do a visual on the brakes, just checking rotor/drum condition along with pad/shoe life left. Give a good look at tire condition. Replace plugs, cap & rotor, wires. Replace drive belt(s), and check condition of idler pulley(s) (if engine has them). Replace all hoses on the cooling system, along with T-stat. Flushing system 1st, then re-fill with fresh coolant mixture. Oil & filter change along with gear lube in trannyy and diff(s), (fluid & filter if Auto tranny). If engine is so equipped, check condition of T-belt, looking for fraying/cracking or missing teeth. (I also have method of checking wear in timing chains on engines so equipped. Check operation and bulb condition of all exterior lights, replacing any that look dark on the glass. Check condition of U-joints, and/or drive axles. That's about it. If you decide to the T-belts on this one, I suggest a new water pump, and re-seal or replace oil pump while you're in there. Also, check condition of the tensioners and idler pullies.

I do believe that you will need to un-hook the flex-joint to the steering column in order to have the rack drop down enough to get the bushing(s) in. Plus un-bolting the other bracket. Shouldn't have to disconnect anything else under there.

Do believe he changed his handle to NUG.

Looks good for a car in our neck of the woods. Don't you just love road salt?!? Got that blowing/drifting white stuff here too. Maybe 3-4" over night, more today, still coming down now mostly Lake effect though.

Could be indicator of Alt going out. A high draw on a defective alt can make the belt squeel. Leave heater off, turn on lights & hi-beams, see if it does then too.

New T-stat doesn't always mean it's a good one. Pull the T-stat out, drop it in a pan of water and heat it up. Would help to have a thermometer in the water, so you can tell what temp it is. T-stat should start to open when it gets close to it's rated temp. Restricted heater core won't cause the engine to run hot, just means you don't get good heat in the vehicle. Running without a T-stat may/may not, cause engine to run hotter. But it won't hurt to do a test drive with it out, just to see what it does without it in there. It will take the engine longer to reach operating temp without the T-stat, so in effect, you could loose some gas mileage while it's warming up. One other posibility is a defective lower radiator hose. It could be seperated on the inside, and blocking the flow of water to the waterpump. If the vehicle has A/C, there could be debris between the evaporator and the radiator, blocking air flow.