TomRhere

Won't be able to do compression test if crank won't turn. But, air can be put to the cylinders thru the spark plug holes. Basically a leak down test. May have to turn cams by hand to insure the valves are closed for each cylinder. Part that confuses me is, you said it would crank over at first, now crank won't turn. Maybe, broke t-belt has fouled itself around the crank pulley and has crank bound up. Seen other drive belts do that.

AutoZone has the joints also. Duralast # 2-0430Dl, $20.00 And yes, these staked joints are a pain to swap out.

Thanks for the info. The M/C is the only brake related part I haven't changed on my '88 Wagon, and I believe it needs a new one. Brakes work good, but I think they should be better than they are.

I have found that using '82-'84 GL has got more listings than using same years for the BRAT, unless it is a BRAT specific part. Best to use '84 as the latest listing when searching parts as the sites confuse the EA81's and EA82's with the years of '85 on. Anyways, Rock Auto has the rears listed for '82-'84 GL's as A-1 Cardone # 607221, $61.79 + $45.00 core.

Believe I still have the 4 off the '92 parts Wagon. edit; Seems I still can't quote any post on here. This was for I75eya. end edit

The link to the "Old Subaru Repair Manual" seems to not work anymore. There was a write-up in there on how to replace the core without pulling the dash. Used it to do one myself. Basics are; Drain coolant, Remove heater hoses from the tubes under the hood, remove drivers seat to make under dash access a bit easier, disconnect and remove the heater bypass/shut-off valve from the heater box, (a couple of hose connections, cable, and screws), using a flat end for a soldering gun, cut around the heater housing where the core is located, (not an easy thing to do, but doable), remove old core, install new core, the section you cut out of the housing can be reattached with what ever method you want to use, replace the valve and other items removed, refit hoses under the hood, refill coolant, enjoy the heat...

B-E-A-U-tiful..........

I so feel your pain.. Rebuilt one off my '86 BRAT about 12 years ago, due to leakage. Once I completed that task, I vowed to never do another without proper tools. Have held to that vow since, and have bought rebuilt ones when needed.

Partstrain.com lists the KYB's, both front and rear.

That is the number I have in my notes for the rear shocks.

Nice sketches!!! Liking the concept of it....

Another possibility would be the fuel tank not venting properly. Try driving around with the gas cap loose or off, see what that does.

Welcome to the Board! Nice looking Brumby!!! What do you have in mind for it? Lot's of threads on here of Members fixing up there rides, have a look around. Every time I see a pic of those "Roo Bars", I want one. No way I could afford shipping on one though.

Wagonist is correct on being able to remove door trim with door closed. Had to do so myself for same reason, door wouldn't open. Slide front seat full forward to help getting "B" pillar trim off. I pulled the entire rear seat out of this particular Wagon, an '88 GL10 FWD. Started from the front lower edge of the door trim and worked it loose, after pulling door grab, inside release handle trim. This Wagon had electric windows. Enough wiring harness to the switch to allow decent movement of the trim panel. This particular latch was gummed up from lack of use, and just wouldn't release. All control rods were in place and moving as they should. A few "spray downs/let soak in", of some "Liquid Wrench", got things working again. I found during all of the work, that a small pen-light type flashlight works great for peering down thru the opening for the glass to see what is going on. Bigger flashlight just didn't work so good. I did have to plug the window switch back in to lower the window, after I got the door trim off, just so I could look inside of the door. edit; If I remember right, lol.... The "B" pillar trim slides upwards to release it from the clips holding it.

Nice bit of work around. Only issue I see is the short radius of the 180* bend of the cable under the alt. Thinking the inner cable will wear thru the lining fairly soon. Longer radius would have been better. Did the same with spinning the Weber 180*. Used original throttle cable by flipping the Hitachi cable cam inverted on the throttle shaft and spacing the original cable attachment/adjustment bracket out by 1-1/2" or so after moving it over to the opposite side of the engine. It mounted using longer bolt in one of the hole for the pitch-stopper bracket. I can't do pics or links. But if you want, I can send you the file I have on my Weber swap. Just need you to PM me an email addy.

Seen pic on here of someone using 2 claw hammers to pry axle thru the knuckle, axle nut on end of axle, caliper removed at that time.

Check engine and trans mounts. The torque load on them differs between forward and reverse. The exhaust is supported by a bracket on the trans, so if trans mount is bad, it cold let exhaust rub on something while reversing that it wouldn't rub on going forward. Just my .02.

Spent some 30 years as a Machine Repair Tech in the Injection Molding Sector. Can't say I recall seeing a pump shaft failure like that. Some of the pumps on those machines would do 3,000 PSI all day long, well above what an auto trans would see. Can't give any insight to this. But thinking I would find a shop what deals in hydraulics and have them look at it. Place like what would work on back-hoes, diggers, dozers and the likes. Just to see if they had a decent answer.

Did the search using the '84 model year. Kinda wondered why they showed 2 of them, as I've only seen 1 style on any of the BRATs I've owned. Just thought it was due to the different bolts shown. Don't know. General Disorder said that the ones for the old Volkswagen Beetle fit. Can't say on that as I never tried one.

If your Wagon has them, the control unit for the automatic belts is located on the left side, just behind the wheel well and behind the large trim panel.

Ignition switch wiring; White = Battery + Blue = Accessory feed to fuse box Black = Ignition feed to fuse box Black/White = Starter Loss of low beam lights on the '85 BRAT I had was due to one of the connections in the connector for the light switch. Offending contacts had gotten hot and lost contact between the two halves of the connector. Don't recall the wire color right now., but I cut it from the connector and spliced it together. Turn signal issue could be bad housing, connector, or switch.

Wow! Hard hit for sure.. Glad to see that you are basically ok. I'm with Gary, keep on top of that neck injury. Been down that road myself.

AutoZone lists it as a "Steering Coupling Disc", and their site lists 2 kits. Part numbers 31000, and 31002.

Beautiful looking BRAT! Fuel gage issue may be at the sending unit connections at the rear of the tank. 2 connectors there, Fuel level, Low Fuel Light. Simple 1 wire bullet connector for each. I have found them to be severely corroded.

Looks good. Straightened a few out myself over the years. As long as all the pieces fit back similar to what they should be, I was happy with the repair.