TomRhere

Sorry, can't help with what does what. But I would suggest disconnecting battery and un-bolt the mount bracket of the link box and take a look at the bottom of it. Had issues with the one in my 1st '86 BRAT all due to corrosion on the underside to the point of loosing power to my headlights. Cleaned everything and re-installed it. No more hedlight issues, and other things in the BRAT either started working, or just worked better. My .02....

Had problems with the motor on the one in my '82 BRAT. Didn't have the dash switch, so I ws trying to wire-in a control switch for it. Anyways, I could get door to open, and light to work, couldn't get door to close though. So I pulled the works out. Thinking there's 4 bolts at the top of the radiator support, and one down lower, but it's been like 3 years since I did that, so.... What I found was one of the wires had broken off where it attaches on the motor. The connection is a solder joint, so I just re-solder it. Works fine now, or did. Haven't drove BRAT in a while, as it's down for other repairs. Another possible problem would be the relay that controls the light/motor. Relay on mine is on the PS strut tower, Black in color and fairly big.

The pump on Factory installed A/C is the shorter one, 104mm hub height, non-A/C, (or Dealer installed A/C), pump is 110mm hub height. Remember reading awhile back of someone using washers to space the pulley out, so they could use the shorter one on their engine. Should work.....

Best method for doing that, is to bust the ceramic out of the base and weld/braize an air fitting to it. Then you put the chuck end on the gage using a length of hose. Now, you can either take a compression reading, or use it to put air in the cylinder to hold the valves closed when doing valve seals.

Nice little quandry you have there Mick, tranny swaps are a pain, in any vehicle. Ifin it were me, I'd probally swap trannies just to on the , ahem, safer side. But with that said, I'd probally do some shifter modding before the donor trans went in. If you move the attachment point of the shifter rod, up the shifter lever, you'd get a shorter throw shifter out of it. Can't say how much to move it really, but an inch would make quite a difference, two inches would be an even greater difference.

Just did a search on the phone number off the package, info as follows. http://www.melissadata.com/lookups/phonelocation.asp?number=985-876-0237&submit1=Process

If the single spark happens as you let off the key after cranking the starter over, I would look towards the ignition switch as a good culprit. There are 2 sets of contacts in the switch to power the coil, one is for ignition during cranking of starter, other one is for the actual running of the engine in the "on" position.

As far as cost of replacment engine, it depends on where you find one. A local yard may have one for $XX.XX, or you may find a complete car for the same amount or less even. Bonus on finding a complete car is, you get all the other goodies too. And it could be the car was parked just because of a bad autospaztic tranny, or something simular, and there's nothing really wrong with the engine. I bought an '88 XT6 as a parts car a couple years ago, supposed bad engine. All it was is someone fubared the T-belt replacement. I re-timed the belts and fired that mutha up, drove it down the road. Wish now I had kept a few more parts off it though...

Just got in from the garage, almost forgot about it until I saw the thread. Didn't find box, but did find the package with the seal in it. Seal has rib for the chrome. Info on tag reads; Target Glass 985-876-0237 P/N FWS417C Subaru BRAT/GL/DL Trade references WCR417 HWS004254 Hope that helps....

Another possible source for exhaust in the cab area, is how/where the exhaust pipe exits the BRAT. The rear area of the BRAT is hollow, from the tailgate to the B-pillar. Exhaust can enter the cab thru the sidewalls of the bed, as it's all open in there. Nothing in the cab area to seal it off, except for the trim on the B-pillar. I had simular problem on the '86 BRAT I'm driving now. Yes it's a pieced together exhaust system on mine, so it's not ran like the stock system. I added a couple inches of pipe onto the end of the tailpipe, and no more exhaust smell in the cab. Just my .02....

Head gaskets can blow in various ways, and don't mean that you'll get coolant in the oil pan or oil in the cooling system if/when they do pop. With that said though, if it did pop so that the oil and cooolant mixed, you'd get a milkshake looking result in either the oil pan or cooling system. Not sure what the purplish looking fluid would be either, other than maybe power steering fluid. Thinking here that maybe you have a leak in the cooling system, IE; radiator, heater hose, radiator hose, ect, ect. That would explain loss of coolant. A small pin-hole leak can be very hard to find, but still you'll lose coolant over time. Re-fill the system and keep an eye on it. Took me about a week to find a pin hole in a radiator once. It was between the cores of the radiator, not easy to see. And a small leak can evaporate off, before it actually make a puddle anywhere. Look for any whitish colored deposits on anything related to the cooling system. As far as oil loss, it's an old engine with 260,000 on it. Could be burning the oil along with leaking here and there. Still, the engine could last you for many more miles, once you find and repair the leaks it has now. Best bet would be to wash down the engine bay area. Makes it easier to locate leaks that way. Get it clean, then look the engine over after you drive it. May spot the culprit quickly, may take a while to do so.

I found this while doing some clean-up on my 'puter. Been looking all over the place for it. Originally posted by torxxx; Pull your fuse box cover and the kick panel under the steering column.. There should be a blue female and a blue male and green male wire (or vice versa male/female and colors) Anyways, disconnect what ever one is plugged in. and replace with the other color. if green is plugged in, plug the blue one in.. etc.... That will reset the light. They come on between 50 and 60,000 100 and 120,000 and 170 to 180,000 miles to check your egr, push on inside of the diaphram of the egr valve.. if it makes your car sputter like its going to die, and then it springs back out and the ran runs fine, the egr is fine..

But you could do this, http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/subaru/1/CIS/. I've seen the car run with it, and now own the Wagon it was in. To bad he kept all the goodies.....

Been awhile back, but I got one off EBay for my '82. I just looked thru my list of links, but didn't find the web addy for the place I actually bought it from. I'll dig thru the boxes of stuff out in the garage, and see if I can find the name of the place atleast. It'll be some time after 4:pm afore I can do that though. And Welcome back!!!!!!

When I got my '82 BRAT, it had the EA-82 engine in it with the EA-81 4 speed. Swapper used the EA-81 flywheel and clutch set-up, but didn't transfer the timing marks from the EA-82 flywheel. So no T-belt marks, and the ignition timing marks are off. Be nice to yourself, and transfer the marks. You need to move the HH towards the firewall, the distance between its mounting holes, to help clear the disty. Best to pull disty from motor while installing it, then re-install the disty. Pulling it helps get engine past the MC. Loosen the bolts on the brackets that holds the motor mounts to the engine, so you have about a 1/4" + of free-play on the bracket. This will allow the studs to go thru the crossmember easier. Once the studs are thru the slots, tighten the bracket bolts 1st, then put the washers and nuts on the studs. Tighten the nuts after insuring the engine is centered between frame rails. The EA-82 Y-pipe was used on mine, the EA-81's may/may not fit. There's a 1" difference in the pipe length from curve to flange between them. The coil to disty wires were lengthened, as was the lower section of the oil pressure wire. Temp wire will fit with no mods done. I did change the sender to the EA-81 style. The EA-82 radiator was fit into mine, but I'm thinking the EA-81s will work. Do know from doing EA81-82 intake swaps that an EA-82 lower radiator hose works for the upper T-stat to radiator hose with some trimming when using the EA-82 intake on an EA-81 engine. If the EA-82 has the waterpump mounted fan, you may want to leave it off. You'll only have about 3/8" of clearence to the radiator with it on. Pics of the engine can be found in the link in the 82 BRAT album. Pics of the EA-82 manifold on the EA-81 engine, showing the lower-as-uppper radiator hose, can be seen in the 84 BRAT, and the White 86 BRAT albums. http://photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/ If you have any more question, feel free to ask, either here or thru PM.

Sounds to me like you have more in that car that's Subaru, then what NASCAR has in any of what they call their Chevy's, Ford's, Dodge's, Pontiac's, ect... So yeah, it's still a Subaru. Call it, JustyFied.

Thanks for the link. I'll check them out...

Just thinking at the moment. But I'm liking the idea of a Red interior in a Black BRAT. Wife will shoot me for sure, but what do you think they'd want for the complete interior, minus seats.

A couple of things that come to mind are; Flange is warped, or otherwise bent so it doesn't sit flush with the head. Slight wash-out of the aluminum of the head in the port area. Your radio isn't turned up enough...... As far as doubling-up the gaskets, don't know how well that would work on a Soob motor, haven't had the need to try it. But I have doubled the gaskets when installing headers on V-8's, never had one blow-out after I started doing that. But,,, I was told that doing so was un-nessecary 'cause they shouldn't leak, "period", and using 2 gaskets was asking for a leak. So much for their therory....

What color interior on the '82 BRAT? Looking for the Gray stuff..... May be interested in other parts from it, depending on shape of things.

Can't re-call who, but I know someone on here has that, I've seen it. Been awhile back though.....

That method in the link works, and is almost, the only way to do brakes on some bikes from what their owners tell me. I haven't used that method myself, but just may try it. My Wife is willing to help bleed brakes, but she does, ahem, "complain" about it afterwards. Something to do with her legs being tired....

Having done this twice now, I totally agree with using the EA-82 carb intake. A few mods need to be done to manifold to clear the disty, but nothing major. 1st one I did, I mounted the Weber normally using two 1/2" spacers from jameng.com. On the 2nd one, I mounting the Weber backwards using only one spacer. You need to flip the cable mount upside-down, and space the bracket for it out about a 1/2", using one of the mount bolt holes for the bracket the pitch-stopper mounts to. The EA-82 lower radiator hose works for the upper hose from T-stat to radiator, with some trimming. I have pics of all of this if you want to see what's what.

To bled the PS system, you fill the resevior, and start engine. On a completly empty system, I usually only run the engine for about a minute, then shut it off. Then you re-fill resevoir, re-start engine. May take 2 or 3 times of doing this to initially fill system Not sure how much a PS system holds on a Soob, but be sure to have plenty on hand. After the initial fill, you'll want to have the engine running and turn the wheels from one lock to the other several times. Checking fluid level often. It will take a while to get all of the air out of the system, and it will be quite foamy at first. Be sure to check level after a day or so of driving.

Took me a few tries in the Search Function, wrong wording or something like that, but I found this. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=38290&page=1&pp=15&highlight=Make+your+own+oil+seperator