TomRhere

Possible,,,yes... Easy,,,,no. Easier if you remove seat on that side. Been there, done that.

Depends on the parts used really. Size of Master Cylinder bore, both diameter & length. Same with Slave Cylinder, and where the pivot point is on the levers. Using a larger bore/ stroke length MC would push a smaller bore SC further in it's stroke length. Diameter of SC, will effect how much working force(pressure) it has in association with the diameter of the MC bore. Also, where the actuating rod for the MC is hooked to the clutch pedal will change the force applied to the MC, as in how much leg work is involved. Compare the brake pedal/ MC set-up between a car with power brakes, and one with standard brakes. The MC rod on power brakes is closer to the pivot point of the pedal than the standard brake one is. This is because you need more leg work from the standard set-up to work the hydraulics of the system. Lowering the MC rod from the pivot point on the clutch pedal will increase the stroke length applied to the MC, along with the force. Length/diameter of the SC will determine how far the clutch fork will move at the working end, and how much force is applied to the pressure plate. The pivot point on the clutch fork will effect force applied to the PP, along with length of stroke needed by the SC to move it enough to release the clutch. Have I got you all confused now??? I work in hydraulics and was just trying to paint a picture of how things work here.

I have 2-EA-81 engines here, both with dead vac units on the distys. I would love to find a place to get replacements. I've had the thought of pulling one, sending it to Philbin, then do the other one when the rebuilt one comes back. But being able to get replacement units would be the better way for me.

Yeah, they are right proud of those solenoids. A trip to the local salvage yard, with your multi-meter is best bet. Also, the solenoid next to it is for the Purge canister, if I remember right. One of those will work, you just have to change the connector for the wiring of it.

The Mrs says you can have our share, and I agree. Had about 8", but it warmed up here in the last few days, so we have about 4" of ice/snow crusty mix stuff. Yours for the taking.........

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49241 Maybe the gears will fit the 5 speed trans acording to the link above, but I don't believe they would fit the 4 speed. I bought 2 of the 4.11 rear diffs from the Legacy line to do my T-case mod using the Nissan T-case behind the 4 speed tranny. Thinking now after Wil's post, I'll be looking into LSD's for both. :} edit; Yeah, I know he was talking about the front tranny diff, the post just gave me the nod in the right dirrection is all........ end edit;

Can't give specifics for your car, but I can offer some wiring assistance. The rear defroster takes some serious amps to work, something in the 20 amp range I'm thinking. So you reallly don't want to tie into another circuit to run it. Run a wire from the battery + side to a fuse, then to the normally open contacts of a relay, the other side of which would go to the defroster. Now, tap into a key "on" feed and run into a switch, then back to the coil of the relay, other side of which goes to ground or battery -. simple diagram; x's are for spacing and don't mean anything xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx normally open relay contacts xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx v Battery +-----[fuse]-------l l--------defroster grid-----ground {battery -} key "on" power feed------ switch -------(coil of relay)----ground {battery -}

Way back when, (a couple months ago), when I did the Weber & EA-82 intake swap on the BRAT, I cut my own intake-head gaskets. Well, needless to say, it wasn't a real good idea to use cork to do that. Hey, I had the material here, needed to make gaskets, and it did work for a little while. I ordered me some new intake/head gaskets, plus tune-up related items on 12-17, they showed up here on 12-23. Got the chance to work on her today. Put the new intake gaskets in, pulled the Bosch Platinum 4's out and installed the proper NGK plugs, along with new wires, cap and rotor. I've been running around with a small pin-hole in that pesky little hose under the alt that goes from the water pump to the heater supply tube under the manifold. Have had no-luck finding the replacement for it, until now....... Ran down, (well,, actually I drove the XT-6), to the local parts store to see if they had anything in stock, close to fitting, I knew they wouldn't have the right hose... Anyways, seems a Gates #28466 hoses is just the ticket. It needs to be trimmed on both ends by an inch or so, but it fits!!!!!!! I didn't ask what vehicle it was for, didn't care..... Just knew it was real close to what I needed. Got a pic of both hoses here if anyone is interested.. Got back here and trimmed hose to fit, installed hose and refilled the system. Started her up, and let her run for over an hour.. No more puddle on the ground, no steam out of the exhaust, no missing/sputtering. All is good...... I had also bought new front pads and rear shoes, but I need to check my stash to see if I have any good rotors/drums here, otherwise I'll order them in here before I do a brake job on her. She needs one bad, as the brakes will lock if you pull the E-brake to far, (one click only), or nail the brake pedal to hard while backing up. Puttin around town here, there's no problem. I know better than to get her out on the big road yet with the brakes the way they are. Don't get me wrong, I do have brakes.. I just know they ain't what they should be and drive accordingly, nothing over 55,, period..... And I leave myself an out by not getting to close to the car in front of me. I'm in no hurry to get to where I'm heading to, and I drive mostly on back-roads where other vehicles are scarce. Brakes will be fixed properly, come next weekend.....

All of the bolt patterns are the same between the EA81/82 flywheels. However, the timing marks are off a bit between the two. EA-81 has the timing hole at about the 10 o'clock position where the EA-82's is straight up 12 o'clock. You would need to use the EA-81 clutch disc along with the EA-81 throw-out bearing (that fits your tranny), and the EA-82's pressure plate to match the flywheel. Atleast that's how I understand it. I bought my '82 BRAT with an EA-82 engine in it. The swapper had used the EA-81 flywheel/clutch assembly for the D/R 4 speed tranny. Worked ok, but it made replacing the T-belts a real pain. Plus I had to set ignition timing by ear/vacuum gauge. One can line-up the crank bolt holes of the two flywheels, and transfer the marks from one flywheel to the other. You want the crank side of one to sit on the clutch side of the other to do this. Crank bolt pattern is offset,, so the flywheel will only bolt on one way, be sure you have the bolt holes aligned right before transfering any marks.

I was told that the 2WD tank would fit if you lifted it 4", might get by with a 3" lift, not sure. There's about a 2 gallon difference between the 2WD and 4WD tanks on the EA-81 vehicles, with the 2WD being the larger capacity.

Welcome to the Board from another Michigander. Not real familiar with your tranny, but I'll go along with Skips idea of binding cable/lever. Different tranny set-up yes, but the center diff-lock on my XT-6 was acting the same way, wouldn't fully shift all the time. I just sat there cycling it on and off, and now it works. May be worth a try. You can also spray some lithium grease into the end of the cable, then cycle it on/off, spraying more grease every so many times. This will work it up into the cable. However, this is if one can get to the "free" end of the cable. Like I said, not real familiar with your tranny set-up.

Offered in the '90-'94 Manual, and '90-'91 auto, Legacy's, the non-turboed models of both.

The stepped part in the center of the clutch disc goes toward the tranny. Always..........

Not to be mean or rude.... But bring the donor and recipient up here and do it my driveway so I can watch. Maybe I went about it the wrong way, don't know. Just know doing the conversion out in the driveway with limited amount of fab equipment wasn't easy..........

Had that happen with the #1 plug wire 'cause I got in a big hurry and didn't run it the right way. These engines just don't run to good on 3 cylinders.

Welcome to the Board! Free is always good, got the GL-10 Wagon free, just had to pay his gas to get it here. Lots of good info on here, along with good people too!!!

PM sent.

It can be done, but it ain't easy. I've done one car, don't think I'd want to do another. Stuffed the drivetrain from a '90 Geo Prism LSi into an '86 Chevy Nova, both of which were re-badged Toyota Corrola's. The Nova was an auto, the Prism was a 5-speed. Getting the master cylinder for the clutch mounted in the right spot was a real pain, really helped though that I had the dash out of the Nova during this, for wiring purposes. During one of my sleepless nights, I ran across a site where someone had swapped the drivetrain in his 'Roo. The clutch was hydraulic, and he did manage to get everything mounted as needed. But,, even he said it was a pain. So it can be done, just ain't easy. Myself, I prefer a linkage type of clutch operation. Lets you "feel" what the clutch is doing better than cable or hydraulics. I just may build the linkage set-up for mine when I get to that point. Thought it over, have it drawn out in my head, just haven't got beyond the 'thinking about it" point.

Well, I'm thinking that's a fresh-air intake on the DS. Haven't evicted the mouse nest yet to see what it is, but it's a factory hole in the floor of the area under the wiper cowl. The intake for the heater system should be on the PS of the cowl area. I'm reletively new to the EA-82's, having just picked up the Wagon, Sedan, and Xt6 this year, but I'm learning. Kinda helps to have one to tear apart to see how things relate. I have the dash out of the Sedan, as I'm stripping it down for parts. I took pics of the backside of the dash, and of the heater system as it's mounted in the car. I could get a few more detailed pics of the heater control system, door actuators and such and send them to you in an email if you like. Could try to do that tonight or tomorrow. Let me know....

Don't think I'd go untill the 3k mark with it in, but a couple hundred miles won't hurt. Thinking I have around 2-300 on mine, but I do alot of short-trip driving in it, or did anyways.

From your discription of the hose temps, I would say that the core itself is ok. It really sounds like you have an air flow issue to me. Not sure of where to look, but it really sounds like a flapper isn't moving, or you have some obstruction in the airstream. Pulling the blower motor would be the easiest an a good place to start though. Maybe pull the flex duct that's between the blower housing/heater box and see if you get good air flow there 1st. As far as pulling the dash goes, the EA-82 dash is way easier than the EA-81's are. I've pulled both... Moosens has a write-up floating around on here on pulling the dash out of the EA-82 vehicles. The '86 Sedan I have sitting in the garage has a mouse nest sitting right on top of the heater box, could possibly have caused some issues there. There's also one in he fresh air intake under the wiper cowl on the driver side. Pesky little varmits anyways..... FYI; A properly working heater system doesn't have enough cooling capacity to keep the engine at the "normal" area of the temp gauge, usually the half way mark, it will heat up enough to have the cooling fan come on. Yes, you can use the heater to help cool an over-heating engine, but it's not enough in itself to do a proper job alone.

HLA = Hydraulic Lash Adjuster.. They can make a wide range of noises from a light tick to a heavy clack. Some Seafoam, Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO), or a 1/2 quart of ATF in the oil may help get them to quiet down. It took me about 3 months to get the ones in my XT6 to be quiet, and it ranged from one making various noises to what sounded like all of them rattling. I tried various grades of oils, with MMO, and ATF. Not sure what oil I have in there now, but I have some ATF in there. Haven't started it since before Thankgiving, but she was quiet last time it ran. Oil pressure was always good.

PM sent...

Those really sound like the heater core lines to me. They should connect to 2 hoses going over to the firewall. There are however, some smaller hoses for coolant that connect to the manifold. Can't say right now where each one goes on the EA-81 Hitachi manifold, been awhile since I've looked at one on an engine. All of my carb swaps have been to the Weber 32/36 and an EA-82 intake. Only seen one Carter manifold, and it was off of the engine, fully stripped. As far as the heater hoses go, you only need to remove one from the manifold, and it will go back onto the one you're swapping onto your engine. That would be the one that goes to the steel line that runs behind the manifold.

Thanks Mic.. That's the one I was talking about. Didn't know it was still on here, thought it went the way of the lost Repair Manual stuff. Figures mine would be tied to the hi-beams only, (I didn't know that the earlier ones were tied to both)... Maybe I'll just run new wires to the control relay (instead of wiring in new DPDT switch) and use the stock switch. Hmmm....