TomRhere

Truer words have not been spoken!!! Ummm Pat, are you sure them there ain't Brown/Yeller wires stead of Red/White uns?!?!? Sure look to be Brown/Yeller to me. EDIT: Just returning thread back to rightful topic. That DMM is good for the general around the house/car stuff and will do you good. I prefer the Fluke brand myself, but I do abit more stuff than your backyard mechanic. And yeah, you want to be sure to have it set to voltage and not continuity when checking live circuits. Just ask my co-worker about the time he checked continuity on a LIVE 480VAC 3-phase fuse. Needless to say, his DMM didn't look to good afterwards.

Yep, that'll work. Somewhere around here, I have the wiring diagram drawn out. I'll have to look for it, and see if I can get it on here.

Sadly, Yes....

My list is a short one, but HEY, I'm basically all alone up here. 86subaru MilesFox, ZannyDook, RGaff, and a few other members of the "Original" Subaru Alliance, of whom I can't recall names of, Sorry Guys, been awhile..... Rubaflu (where's he run off to??) That's about it, but really wanting to meet up with more.

I agree. If you were to feel the hoses going to the heater, you would find one much cooler than the other when it starts blowing the colder air. Classic sign of a restricted heater core. Sometimes, you can back-flush them by swapping the hoses around, (be sure to swap them back). Sometimes, you can use some cooling system flush to clean them out. Doesn't always work, but it's a quick try. As far as using any system flush, I've found that NAPA's "Mac's Radiator Cleanser" works the best of any. I've left it in longer than the 20 minutes that the directions say to on a few vehicles, doesn't hurt anything doing so.

Man, that really sucks. But atleast everyone involved is still breathing.. Not sure about your end of the State, but down at this end, studded tires are a no-no. I'll put my dibs in on the radiator. But I kinda hate taking advantage of a bad situation.

Not sure on the 1st Gens, but on the 2nd Gens, you have to swap gas tank also, unless you're lifting it at the same time. On the 2nd Gens, there's a indent in the gas tank for the rear diff on the 4WD, it's not there on the 2WD (FWD) ones. So you may want to look at the tanks on both to see if they need swapped.

Nothing wrong with an exhaust puffing smoke rings. As said above, it's just timing of the exhaust pulses. Years ago, a friend of mine had a built-to-the-hilt Chevy 283 not sure of HP, but it ran goooood, dual exhaust with glaspacks. Always puffed smoke rings with low air temps.

All of my BRATs had varing noises from the pump, with the '82 being the noisiest. I believe it's just the pump reacting to the pressure build-up in the system. Hard starting issues would be more related to carb or ignition issues, than fuel pump, as the float bowl has fuel in it and pump isn't really required to start engine.

If I had my way, I'd have one of each year. But the Mrs. has put the kabosh to that idea. Any sheetmetal will work for a heatshield, the aluminum is just easier to work with, for me atleast.

Haven't done it to any of mine yet, but I've made heat-shields out of aluminum roof flashing in the past. Comes in various widths, easy to work with, and fairly low on price for the amount you get. Want to wear some heavy gloves when working with it though, slices skin real easy. Cut it longer than you really need, then cut a couple of tabs into it where it would be over the pipe(s), bend tabs as needed to reach pipe(s), use radiator hose clamps to hold tabs to the pipe. Want to leave about an inch of air space between it and the converter. May last for awhile, may fall off under some heavy off-roading. But you have enough left over to make more, and it's not real difficult to do. 1st one may take you a bit of time, but any after that will be quicker. If you get it wider than whatever it is you're shielding, you can bend the sides down a bit to stiffen it up some.

Recently had to flush oil/coolant mixture out of ex-M-I-L's Neon, due to bad HG. I used a cup of Dawn dishsoap in a 5 gallon bucket. Pull the radiator, and stand it on end with cap end down, and cap removed. Will help get most of the crud out of it. Do this while you wait for your heads to arrive. Once engine is back together, and running, leave T-stat out for now. Fill system with soap solution, run it for 1/2 hour or so, after it gets up to temp. Drain and flush with fresh water. Refill with soap solution, and repeat as needed, until solution is free of oil. Be sure to have heater on Heat setting so core gets flushed also. Works for me....

Oil pressure sounds good. The gauges on these cars are not real accurate, so don't be surprized if it reads "0" pressure when it's warmed up and idling. Lifter tick could just be from sitting, and may go away after driving it for awhile. MMO, Seafoam, or ATF will help clean out the oil system. Oil pan, rocker covers, front crank seal, are the easiest gaskets/seals to do on these engines. Have to raise engine some to do oil pan though. Recommend fresh plugs, wires, cap/rotor, along with both fuel filters. Would also change the coolant hoses, and drive belt(s), just to be sure of things.

The '86 BRAT and the XT6 are drivers, others are parkers.

My '82 BRAT had an ECM under the dash when I got it, also came with an EA-82 engine swapped into it. ECM wasn't controlling anything in the engine bay, so I think you can ditch yours. I swapped a Weber onto that engine, and ditched all of the extra stuff around the manifold. You'll need some caps to block-off the un-used vac ports. As mentioned before, vac lines needed for brake booster, heater controls, disty vac unit, all others can be capped.. I've since swapped that Weber onto 2 different EA-81 engines, no ECM(s), and ditched all of the extra stuff on them too. The Weber is currently on my '86 BRAT mounted on an EA-82 carbed manifold. Some modding of the manifold is meeded to put it on the EA-81 engine. I can help you with that if you want to go that route.

Have to give him a bit of time, see if he does good or mucks it up. I'll give him credit for actually wanting to try to do it. He's got to be better than the goof ball that was in office. I think we need more like him....

Depending on the RPM's at the time it happens, it could be a really stiff jolt. When an engine backfires, it not only misses on the clyinder that caused it, but the next couple of intake strokes are pulling in the burnt gases that are in the intake runners also. So more than one cylinder is affected.

My 1st thought when I read your post, also. Backfiring thru the intake would cause a sudden jerk, and a squeak of sorts. The jerk would be more pronounced with a manual tranny vs an auto. Just my .02..

Keep that 1/2 gallon. Find other 2 jugs, save any you can drain from engine system in other containers, like clean milk jugs. Call the store and tell them about it, see what they want to do. As mentioned, dropping a Lawyers name and the word lawsuit, should get their attention.....

That's just not right!! If you still have any left in the jugs, take it back, demand money refund. Make mention of Lawyer, law-suit!!!!!! Be sure to keep some around for proof, too.

Welcome to the Board.... Always good to see someone else from Michigan join.

The EGR light is on in my '86 BRAT, also. Going to dive into the dash wiring this weekend to see if I can figure out which connectors it is that needs swapped around. As stated, it's just a service reminder, comes on every XX,000 miles.

Welcome to the Board.

Welcome to the Board.

I just happen to have a lot of those pins. Check your Private Messages, ones on the way to you.