TomRhere

Welcome to the Board.... Always good to see someone else from Michigan join.

The EGR light is on in my '86 BRAT, also. Going to dive into the dash wiring this weekend to see if I can figure out which connectors it is that needs swapped around. As stated, it's just a service reminder, comes on every XX,000 miles.

Welcome to the Board.

Welcome to the Board.

I just happen to have a lot of those pins. Check your Private Messages, ones on the way to you.

Nice job!!Feel free to come here and do my '82 BRAT. I won't get in your way at all.....

Would it have that pesky little screw that holds the rotor? Ifso, could be he forgot to put it back in.

Actually, that sounds about right. There's 2 ways of pre-lubing your engine before you start it. Doing so should pump them up, and is good for the bearings also. 1- Use a 1/2" drill motor and spin the oil pump, this is providing you don't have the T-belts on yet. 2- Leave spark plugs out, and spin engine using starter. Best to not have fuel pump wired/powered at this time.

Yeah, those are shaft bearings used in various pieces of equipment. They aren't used on any vehicle I know of.

Good job!!! Hope my '82 looks that good when I get it done. Thinking I'll skip on the tarp house and use my garage, it's probally just as drafty though....

http://homepage.powerup.com.au/~camncath/retrofitting_the_weber_dgav_32.htm Real good write-up on tuning the Weber. As far as amount of time, that would depend on what the carb is now, and your abilities in tuning it in.

The water you're seeing dripping out of the exhaust is probally just condensation. You'll get some from a good running engine, you are getting more of it than usual due to 2 dead cylinders.

Been down that road myself with the , it's together but not connected, connector. Hates when that happens...... Now, with #3 & #4 not firing, I would think that those 2 plug wires are reversed on the disty cap. Try swapping them around. With the noise on the 1-3 side from the valve/HLA. I was thinking that maybe there is/was an oversized valve stem issue as the cause of noise, as that would want to bind the valve stem in the guide. Hopefully, that's is not the case. Seems the shop would've noticed something there when they assembled the head. Just may be, it'll go away after engine is ran for a while, (once things get oiled properly).

I get the part where he says that they pulled the car around with the trans in gear and clutch pedal pushed in, but the engine still turned over. It means that the clutch was not releasing, for what ever reason. I don't get the part of where his friend was working the clutch pedal while he looked under the hood. He saw nothing moving until a "click" was heard then the clutch parts started moving. Don't make sense to me. If the clutch pedal was being pushed and nothing was moving under the hood, I would think of broken clutch cable. Can't see where a "click" would fix a broke cable, nor can I think of any other reason he saw nothing moving when the pedal was being moved. I have seen clutch discs rust to the splines of the tranny and not want to release fully when the pedal is pushed in, but still the linkage would move as normal.

quote; There is a strong tap/clack each time a valve pops back up. Is that normal? I have been turning the engine by hand with the crank bolt. (Engine is cold, sitting for 24 hours, no oil pressure.) Is that just unpumped hvla's or is it mis-shapen camshaft lobes? un-quote; That statement leads me to think that the valve(s) are sticking in the guides some. Turning the engine by hand, should not produce any lifter clack/tick/noise. The cam follower should do just that, follow the cam lobe. As the lobe is turned to the low side, (valve closing), the follower should be in contact with both the lobe of the cam, and the valve stem, even if the HLA's aren't fully pumped up. If you are getting any noise from the valve area when turning the engine by hand, something is wrong. A sticky vavle will cause the engine to miss on that cylinder, which will cause engine to shake. What work was done to the heads, and/or valves and guides?

From what I've read on here, the rears can be a pain to get off, as they rust onto the stubs. PB Blaster penetrant may help, along with some heat, pry bars, and hammer blows. Haven't pulled a rear axle myself yet, but I've got a couple of them to do, probally be in the same boat as you. All of the EA-81 axles are the same on the rear, fronts may vary in the diameter of the shaft between FWD and 4WD but they still fit the same.

EA-82's (OHC) have belt driven cams, so you would see Black plastic covers on the front of the engine. Distributor on the back of the right side of the engine. EA-81's (OHV) have an internal cam, no T-belt covers. Disty is up-front and on lefthand side. EA-81's were in Hatches up to '89, and BRATs up to '87 here in the US. EA-82's started around the '85-'86 era.

Yeah, what Arch said, it should atleast try to start with a couple of spits and sputters. Cold engine; mash the go pedal to the floor, don't try to start it. Pop the hood and pull the breather and see if the choke butterfly is shut. It should be, if not it needs to be adjusted. Loosen the 3 screws on the choke coil housing and turn it to close choke, retighten screws, see if it'll start and run at high idle, 1200 RPM's. May take a couple trys to get it where it needs to be. There is a specified setting, but I prefer to play with the settings of how much choke and fast idle speed, rather than go with spec. Mainly cause each engine and carb is different. This will depend on whether or not your throttle cable is adjusted right though. With engine off, have someone hold the go pedal to the floor as you look down the barrels of the carb. Both bores should be wide open. You may have to hold choke plate out of the way. If the throttle plates aren't full open, you need to adjust the throttle cable so they are. The throttle has to go full open in order for the choke to set. So far, mines working good. Have had a few morning with below 20* temps. 1 mash of the pedal, turn the key and she's running. Wants to do a 2k RPM at first, but a quick blip of the pedal brings her down to a 1,200 RPM. Sits there and purs along 'til I blip the pedal again, then it does the normal idle speed, 7-800 R's. I do think that the heater in the choke works to well though, as the choke opens to soon for my tastes, it's full open within like 2 minutes. Gotta let her warm up for atleast 5 minutes, or it'll want to spit-n-sputter 'til she is warm. After she's warm, it's yeeeeeeeeeeehaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa.....

Hardest part of swapping door glass, is figuring out the right angle-of-dangle to get glass out of door & new one in. If the window glass is falling on it's own, then you have something broke in the guide and regulator areas, or mount point on glass has failed.

I've ran into this before on various engines, and in some of the hydraulic pumps in my line of work.. After many, many, add infitium, 1,000,000,000's of revolutions, yes you can wear a grove in the shaft where the seal rides. Those sleeves work okay, for the most part. But I've choosen to alter where the seal sits, rather than do a sleeve. Either drive the seal in further, or don't drive it in as far as it was. Puts it at a fresher area of shaft. Some of the hydraulic systems at work are multiple pumps driven by one shaft. $300.00-500.00+ for a shaft, or $5.00 for a seal, you make the call on that. So, I try to save a bit of cash for the Company. Plus, using a sleeve, you set up a potential leak, as the sleeve can spin on the shaft and not seal against the oil pressure as a fresh seal would. Just my .02

I've towed a lot of vehicles over the years, so I have some knowledge here. Myself, going that far, NADA!!! 50 or so miles maybe. Plus you have to cross over them there mountains sooner or later, real hard on brakes. Not to mention the excess wear on the clutch when you need to get going again. Nope, wouldn't do it........... Would look into the U-Haul truck mentioned earlier.

22" across at the flanges. 4' from the flanges to the end of the pipe exiting the converter. 7-1/2" tall, lying flat on the floor up to top of flanges. Think I would just wrap it in some heavy paper or like material to cover the sharp edges, slap an address lable on it, and ship it....

Could also be caused by a brake that won't fully release, or is locked up. Try raising the wheels off the ground, and see if they will turn easily by hand, be sure to have tranny in neutral for the fronts.

Got a hitch on my '82 BRAT. Can't says as to how much I've towed with it, but have towed various trailers. Even moved the twin-axle camper trailer we had around the yard without to much problem. I can, (or my shins can actually), attest to how well it is mounted to the BRAT.

Leaky hill-holder, wheel cylinder, or caliper will drain the resevoir. So will a leaky line for that matter. Just with vehicle sitting, not being driven. Look for signs of wetness on the inside of the tires, if one is wet, there's your leaker. Same for the H-H valve, if it's wet, it be leaking. If you don't see any thing on the tires, put some fluid in the MC, and have someone work the brake pedal while you look under the car for any leaks. Steel lines will rust thru. The ones for the rear brakes run thru the inside of the car, behind the (heater blower on the PS), kick panels and under the door sill trim, one on each side. There is a coupling at both ends, one just before it enters thru the firewall, one where it exits the back of the rear floor. Having to do the DS one inside of the car will be a major PITA with having to work around the pedals and steering column. Trust me on that one, didn't replace it, but pulled all of the lines out of the BRAT when I scrapped it.. I cheated there and pulled column and pedals out 1st. I did replace the PS line on my old '86 BRAT. There is a short line, after the line exits the back of the car, it in turn goes to the flex line on the trailing arm, then another short line to the wheel cylinder. I used pre-made lines for the repairs, had to use 2 lines to make the run thru the inside as I didn't find any long enough. I ordered the flexlines thru NAPA, right around $100.00 for all 4 of them. Steel lines are easy to bend by hand, and very easy to kink too. Slow steady bending is the key. You won't match the factory bends exactly, but you can get them close. I have yet to find a tubing bender that will make some of those tight radius bends you find from the factory. Also, a line to long with a loop bent into it, is way better than using a line that is to short. Bend the loop in the line so it is sideways rather than up/down and as close to a support bracket as you can get it. You bleed the brakes using the X pattern, DS rear/PS front- PS rear/DS front. Keep an eye on the fluid level as you bleed, you don't want to get air in there from it getting to low, and have to start bleeding the system again. Good luck.....