TomRhere

Sorry my install tips didn't work out for you, but it is a "learned" method, takes a few installs to get it so-called "Mastered". Sounds like you and your friend got it in okay though. Also sounds like you had a good day at the yard, always a good thing.....

That would be the idler pulley for the rightside T-belt. No-worky to good when it goes bu-bye..........

One would figure that Blue and Red would make Purple, but not always does this happen. Depends on the amount/intensity of the dyes involved. Red and alot of Blue, will make a Brownish color, as you're getting into the darker tones of the Red here. We paint car parts at work, and I've watched the Paint Techs mix-up colors. Was amazed as to what they can mix together to get "this" color... So it just may be that the Blue stuff has a intense tint factor when compared to the Red tint factor of the ATF.. In other words: If the tranny works right, and better than it did before. Don't Worry, Be Happy!!!

Welcome to the Board!

Yeah, from the outside in.. I would plan on atleast an hour or two, if not more, seeing as this is your 1st time in doing it. Myself, I could remove old and have new in in about a 1/2 hour. I've done it many many times, although on much older vehicles mind you. Windshields are a real pain to do, just because of they're size, but I still can do those fairly quick. Like I said, slow and easy. As you go up the sides, try and keep it somewhat even side-to-side. Upper corners will be stubborn, but slow steady inching it in will be the best way to go.

To get "new" window glass out, just cut the seal off. Getting "old" window glass out can be a pain at times. I've resorted to laying old blanket in the hatch area, and making glass go "poof", then clean up mess. Not the best way for sure, but it gets the job done. To put "new" glass in, start by installing the seal around the glass. Then wrap some small diameter rope, or wire around the seal in the channel, with the free ends at the bottom center. Sit glass/seal into hatch at the bottom, with the rope/wire on the inside, and lay the glass against hatch. Start pulling the rope around the hatch, working one side abit then the other. Corners can be a bear to do, some liquid soap makes good lube to help seal slide into place, Gritless hand-cleaner works well also. I usually can get most of the bottom in without using the rope, then use rope to go around corners and up the sides, then across top. May need to use a putty knife to help get corners in, may not. Above all, be patient, and work slowly. You don't want to break the "new" window, by getting in a hurry.....

Would the one out of an '86 Sedan work? I don't know the EA-82 line that well. If it will work, I have that stuff, just need to remove it from the car.

Nada. I listen to Wisconsin V-4's all day at work. Don't sound nothing like a Boxer, let alone a Subaru engine. Also Nada. Had self built duals on my '82 BRAT with an EA-82 engine, equal length pipes. Ain't no-way it sounded like a Honda.

Hasn't been mentioned sofar, but I would put a new front crank seal in while you're in there. Just be fore-warned that the crank seal should sit flush to slightly recessed to the bore it goes into. Neither the Haynes or the Chiltons mention this. If you seat the cramk seal in to far, you will block an oil passage. That would be a bad thing. I wasted a new seal 'cause I set it in to far, (found that info here), had to remove it and get another one.

Think I would check all of the coolant hoses first, before I tore into the engine. Could be you popped a heater hose, or one of the smaller coolant lines on the intake manifold. Start the engine and push the hoses around to see if any of them want to leak any. I can see one leaking and the coolant flowing over the engine and coming off both sides. It happened to the '84 BRAT I had, was that way when I bought it. Owner was told it was headgaskets. NOT, was leaking heater hose.

Hmmmm. If it runs with key "on", then it should run otherwise like during crank and run. Wonder if maybe the injector died. Just guessing there.....

Heater core is right in the center of the dash, behind the radio. Don't need tubing to bypass the heater, just pull one hose off engine and the other off of the core tube, then loop it over to where other hose was on the engine. edit-- That link repair won't work for you, or atleast I don't think it will, as it's for the EA-81 models and yours is an EA-82.---end edit--

If you turn the key to the "on" position, (not cranking engine), do you hear the fuel pump run? It should run for a second or two, then shut off. If you don't hear pump run, it's either the pump died, or the fuel pump relay died. Worst case would be the ECU has a problem in the circuit for the fuel pump, it controls the ground for the fuel pump relay. edit--Could be that the fuse, or fuseable link went also. Not sure which fuse or link it would be though, as I'm not real familar with the EA-82 cars. end edit---

Pump is different, something about the bolt pattern. But they do use the same filter. I bought one of those adapters thru WJM, fits both EA-82 and ER-27. He doesn't sell them anymore though. He got them thru the Dealership that he worked for, but he no longer works there.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27537&highlight=heater+core Link to Moosens write-up on doing it. It's a pain in the rear job, but you can do it...

Hate to say this really, but you need a new heater core.

Yep, the Weber 32/36 is what you want. Toss an EA-82 carb intake on there also, and even be happier. Done that to 2 of mine sofar, really woke-up the '84 Auto, still tuning in the one on the '86. But they do run better. Sound better too when you put your foot into it........

Would have you check the wire going to the sender on the oil pump, looking for bare or frayed wire. If the wire has a bare spot in it, it would ground the circuit turning on the light, especially if it's being real irratic The oil gauges on these are known for being iffy at low pressure, not to sure about ones with the oil light.

The '84's with Auto trans, all '85 and up have Hydraulic lifters. I did mine the wrong way when I swapped heads, took me a few tries to get it right, like 4. Here's the procedure, taken from the FSM. Someone posted this on here, and I saved it. Engine cold, 20-40*C/86-104*F Done in 2 steps.. Step 1; With engine @ TDC #1 cylinder (compression stroke) adjust the following; Intake & Exhaust on #1, Exhaust on #3, Intake on #4. Step 2; With engine @ TDC #2 cylinder (compression stroke) adjust the following; Intake & Exhaust on #2, Intake on #3, Exhaust on #4. Procedure; Remove Rocker covers. Bend the tab of the lock-washer and loosen the lock nut. Turn the adjuster screw in approximately 4 turns. Leave it sit for 15 minutes. (Don't rush this like I tried to do) Unscrew the adjuster screw SLOWLY until rocker just stops moving, this is the "Zero-Point". ( If you can get your fingers on the push-rod, it should just start to be able to spin between your fingers at this point) Turn adjuster screw out 1-1/2 turns more. Tighten lock nut and bend tab on lock-washer. (Be sure to hold adjuster screw while tightening the lock nut) Re-install Rocker covers. I ran my engine without the covers on, just to make sure I had them right. Took me 4 adjustments to finally get all of them quiet again. Running without the covers makes a nice mess on the garage floor, but won't hurt the engine any. Above all, don't rush the waiting period, it won't do you any good. 20 minutes would even be better, really.

(quote) would there be a difference in HLA's between years such ad 85-85 vs. 87-94? I remember someone posting a pic on here of 2 differently shaped HLA's, but do believe the over-all length should be the same. (quote) the outer spring and spring keeper were in a parts tray, the cam tower was still on the head, i dont know why anyone would try to remove a valve under the cam tower before removing it there are score marks on the inside of the cam tower housing the round part that retains the spring had a notch worn out of the outer circumfrence. the iner part where the tip of the valve stem comes through was wallowed out on one side, this must be the side that dropped a keeper Hmmm. Maybe rocker did fall out, and PO tried to fix it, but waited to long in doing so, thus the worn parts. Did the score marks look like they were made by engine parts, or by someone using tools? I've only tore-down 1 EA-82 engine, but don't think I would attempt to do valve work with head still on engine, myself. Been long enough since I did so, that I'm having trouble getting a mental pic of everything, going here. When you re-assembled everything, did you use a different rocker, or the same one from this engine? Reason I ask is, maybe it is bent/deformed like I said before. It's about the only thing I can think of right now that would hold valve open when things are assembled. Thinking I would swap the entire head/cam carrier/whatnots from the spare engine at this point.

Most valves bend at the head/stem area due to contact with the piston. Have seen a few that were bent on the stem itself, real bear to remove from guide by the way when that happens. If the valve seated against the seat when the head was sitting alone, I wouldn't think that it would be bent. Usually quite obvious that something is wrong when a bent valve is against the seat. My theory on sequence of events here. HLA stuck in the colasped position (momentarily) allowing rocker to fall off. Rocker fell against valve spring, and cam lobe caught it collaspsing the spring enough to allow keepers to fall out. HLA, now free of being held by the rocker, was pushed apart by the oil pressure, (could be pushing that one abit though??). Wonder if maybe the rocker is bent or malformed enough to hold valve off it's seat when everything is where it should be. Or maybe there's something in bore for the HLA?? This that Wagon that Jim just bought??

Headgasket failure; cylinder to cylinder, cylinder to oil passage, cylinder to water passage, cylinder to oil return gallery, cylinder to the outside of engine, oil passage to water passage, oil passge to outside, water passge to outside, water passage to oil return gallery.

Our '95 Pontiac Grand Am has 2 oil lights in it. If the 1st light comes on, you're low on oil pressure. If the other light comes on, I have no-clue... Even the Owners Manual says it's nothing to be concerned about. Huh,,,What??? Called the dealership about it, never got a good enough answer. The 2nd light has lit a couple of times, but it's been maybe 18 months ago since the last time it did so. Why have 2 oil lights on a car, especially if one of them isn't supposed to mean anything????

You're right, it doesn't make sense. Got arcage from the plug wires even after swapping on a 2nd new set???!!??! Don't think cap/rotor would have anything to do with it, but wouldn't hurt to change them when you get the right ones. May not have anything to do with it really, but check the wiring of the coil for correct polarity. I've seen engines do some wierd stuff cause coil was wired wrong. But can't say that I've seen arcage because of it.

I remember reading an article in some mag years ago about a guy that added nitrous to a turboed engine. He plumbed the nitrous jet into the turbo on the air side so that it would help spool it up faster when the jet hit the vanes. Maybe you could do that with the compressed air on the exhaust side. I have no-clue really, don't have anything turboed here, and have never held a turbo in my hand for a look-see of it