TomRhere

Thanks for the info guys. Was wanting Loyale specific info, and that's what you gave me. The mechanicals I figured were the same as ones I've owned, but wasn't sure on body/interior/option stuff.

http://www.xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2439 For the front.. http://www.xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2063 For the rear...

Hey Miles, you talking the trailing arms themselves here, or the body points where they attach??? Good to know about the parts/year thing. I haven't given it a full look-over, but it looks to be in real good shape from what I did look at. Body is clean for the most part, slight amount of rust on bottom of front PS door. Appears to have sat for awhile, cause the engine/tranny is covered with that white stuff that aluminum likes to grow. Didn't check tranny lube, but the diff lube looked clean. The engine oil on the other hand definetly needs changed, way dirty and over full by atleast a quart. I did tell Harry that belts and hoses should be changed, and maybe even the T-belts, along with other tune-up related items. Also told him that popping a T-belt is nothing to worry about, engine wise. Will have to wait until he gets the front DS door to see what color inner panel is on it, but the one on the Wagon needs to be replaced. Something got hot down by the door pocket, melted the plastic and there's a burnmark on the DS seat. Seat I have, door panel me no got, for PW's that is

On your disty hold-down issue. I was told that the bracket for the hold-down on an EA-81 disty can be flipped over, puts the bolt hole on the otherside of the disty. Maybe that'll work on this EA-82 disty, but using the EA-81 bracket. Worth a look atleast. No clue on clearance here.. But maybe pull disty out and drop it back in to put the hold-down tab where it needs to be. Would have to re-do the plug wires, if you can spin disty. Not sure if you could clock the plug wires enough, ( hard to picture everything while sitting here at the 'puter), and still stay within the slot of the hold-down.. Just some thoughts is all........

I know Miles Fox has done this also. Not sure what year engine he used, but it was a carbed one. Thinking it's the Wagon that he's been driving lately. Not sure if he swapped back to the Turbo engine, yet...

Popped the driverside T-belt maybe?!?!! Or maybe that pesky little screw that holds the rotor came out. Pull the disty cap, watch rotor while someone cranks engine. If rotor don't move, it's either the screw, or the T-belt. Just my best guess......

I can get a "good" 2nd out of my '86 BRAT. EA-81 Webered with an EA-82 carb intake. Front axles don't like it to much though!!! Starting to do the gritchy-gritchy-gritchy thing. Ain't going to do 3rd without a bit more work done to it, needs a new disty for one...

Just talked with an elderly gentelman that recently bought the afore mentioned Loyale. I saw it sitting in his driveway on Sunday last, left my name and number. Talked with him (Harry), by phone today, and then stopped by to check the car out. As stated, it's a '92 Loyale Wagon, 2WD 5-speed, AC, PW, PS, SPFI, little over 92,000 on the clock. Silver w/Blue interior, real nice body on it, very little rust at all. Needs a DS front door, (dented but not bad), but the car lot has one for him. He hasn't drove it more than the 1/2 mile or so to his house from the lot he bought it from. Harry is in his mid 70's, and may or may not do the needed repairs to the car. This is where I'll come in. I will be his mechanic, but will need abit more insight to this line of 'Ru, I drive the somewhat older ones myself. Not sure as of this writing what the maintenance history is, but do know a few things to check-out and/or change. Tune-up, filters, check T-belts, oil change, gear lube. Just need abit more insight as to other things that may need some attention at this time. I'll have to wait until he gets it plated to do a test drive. Gave Harry the web addy to this site, hopefully he'll stop in to say Hi, atleast.

1st gear, Oh yeah!! 2nd gear, Yeah Baby!!! 3rd gear, Yesssssss!!!!

I think it'll be okay also. With the exception of the XT-6, Subaru's use ATF in the PS sysytem, PS Fluid is compatable with ATF in this instance. There are some makes of cars that require PS Fluid "only" though. Subaru's are not one of those, thankfully..

My Brother is a good one for that. Got an Ex-Brother in law that drove his car for a week with the oil light on. Brought it to me cause it was making funny noises. Asked him about the light being on and he said he didn't know what it meant. Here's your sign!!!!!

Pull the vac line off of the modulator, if it drips ATF out of the line, the mod is fubar. Also, burned ATF will slightly irritate your eyes if you were to be standing in the exhaust plume coming off of the car. Been awhile since I've had one go bad and can't quite recall what the exhaust smelled like.

86 BRAT-Maroon 82 BRAT-Black 2-88 XT6's-Black 84 BRAT- Light Blue 86 Sedan- I think it was Light Blue originally. Has a Miles Fox repaint on it now. 88 GL10 Wagon-Silver 86 BRAT-White

When I got my 6, there was very little if any "free-play" in the pedal, so I adjusted it. Got about 7/8" "free-play" in the pedal, but then it wanted to grind going into 1st unless I was stopped or slowly rolling, plus it felt "notchy" shifting into higher gears. OK, more adjustment needed, and that's so fun on these cars, really difficult to get wrenches in there. After the re-adjustment, I have about 1/2" of "free-play", but it still wants to grind a bit going into 1st, but not as "notchy" for the other gears. Less than 1/2" of "free-play" just don't sound right to me. I'd like to know what you come up with on yours.. Mine will slip if I do a hard nailing of 2nd on dry pavement, I know better than to try a hole-shot in 1st. Maybe I just need a new clutch pack.

Been a couple of decades since I played with multiple carbs, but it does sound like float level on one of them is off a tad. Having never seen one of these on a 'Ru, which side of the carb is the float on, (when viewed from behind steering wheel please), just so I can get myself orintated here.

Yeah, you don't really want to "polish" the intake side, but smoothing it out some does wonders. You want to get rid of any casting flash or bumps in the runners or ports, and leave it with a "roughish" finish. Smooth really, but not "polished", you want to see the stoning marks. Now on the exhaust side of this, you want it as smooth as possible, "polished" as in near glass smooth, but not quite that smooth.

A little tip for you, or those doing this swap. For your upper radiator hose, use the EA-82's lower radiator hose.... It has just the right curves in it to fit from the T-stat outlet to the EA-81's upper radiator fitting, some trimming is needed, but it fits like it was made for it. Done this twice now when doing the EA-82 carb intake swap onto an EA-81 engine. Both the EA-82 carb and SPFI intakes have the T-stat outlet in the same place, so it'll work... I can do a pic if someone wants to see how it fits. Not sure if I have another complete EA-82 lower hose here, but I'll look.. Ifso, I'll do a pic of where you do the cutting....

Thought that the Turbo cams had less over-lap of the valves, or something like that.

Yeah, 2 turns out from "lightly" seated is the base setting. You'll want to set idle speed at/near 750 RPM's. Then you turn mixture screw in "slowly" until it starts to stumble, turn it back out "slowly" until it smoothes out again, (count number of turns, be they 1/4, 1/2, or full ones). Now, turn it out until it stumbles again, then turn it back in untill smooth, (once again counting turns). You want to try and get it near the middle of the "stumbles". If your RPM's differ from intial setting, turn idle speed screw to bring it back to where it should be, and repeat the mixture adjustment. Sometimes you can get it right away, or within a couple tries, sometimes it takes some doing. Also be sure to check ignition timing before, and after, as it will have an effect on idle speed also. I know, Subaru's use ported vacuum for the vacuum advance and it shouldn't be a factor at idle, but still check it.... Also be sure you have no vacuum leaks anywhere, as they will mess with you in a bad way.

I don't see where it would be a "bad thing" to do. Would compare to putting the EA-82 carb intake and a Weber on the EA-81 engine. Makes 'em "breath in" better. Done that twice now, the '84 BRAT I had, and the '86 BRAT I'm driving now. Need to get a freer flowing exhaust on it though... If one does a proper job of machining the intake, (or an adapter), and does a little port-n-polish on the intake runners and head ports, coupled with a free-flow exhaust, I think it would be a little screamer. I've only seen one Spider intake in person and that was a while ago. But aren't the runners off-set from each other side to side? I believe they are, and made that way so that the "pulses" don't cancel each other out when they re-bound back into the plenum chamber. Going to a bigger TB shouldn't have any detrimental effect on that, anymore than ripping the factory stock intake and carb out on a Chevy 283 an slapping on an Eldebrock intake and a 600 carb. Lots did it, and loved every minute of it..... Just my "old" .02...........

Not 100% on this, but seem to remember reading here that there is a difference between the 2 X-members. Thinking there's a driveshaft difference also, but.... I've been awake for over 30 hours, I'm whooped, tired, beat,,, I'm going to bed now..

Me thinks many of us would fall into that area..................

Things to check; Free-play, you should be able to push the clutch pedal "by hand" roughly 7/8" before you feel any real resistance to movement. Kinda hard to do, but visually inspect the clutch cable housing for any sign of splitting. Would help to have someone push on pedal while you do this. I have seen cable housing break, when they do cable will push housing apart and not move the piece it is intended to move. On the "everything is new", did you replace the pilot bearing in the flywheel? I have had instances of the wrong pilot bearing in the clutch kit before. Not on a Subaru, but it could happen. If ID of bearing was to small, it would still spin the tranny's input shaft as if the clutch had not been pushed. Proper routing of clutch cable is way important here also. Looks like it's wrong, but cable should go under steering shaft after it exists the firewall. Not sure if that would hinder the release of the clutch, but it sure does make the pedal stiff if it's routed wrong. Just my .02..........

Couldn't think of John's board name.... I'm up for more BRAT shirts.... Even if it's just a print of a BRAT with the Board's addy below it. Would take whatever was offered otherwise though.

I wouldn't worry about the AC either. I would check a few of the local tire shops and see what they had to offer in some used tires. Got some good deals on some decent used tires from some of them around here. You'd be surprized at some of the "used" tires some places have, people just change tires cause they don't like the look or ride of the ones that come on the vehicle they just bought. For an example, got 4-235/65/14's for the Wife's Grand Am, mounted balanced, old tires dispossed of for $135.00. These tires didn't have more than maybe 400 miles on them, still had some of the tips on the tread area. I would also check with the local used parts yards and see what a windshield would cost, (they remove the one you're buying is the only way I'd go), then call an Auto Glass place to see what they would charge to install a window that you supply. Around here, it's roughly $50.00 for installation of "your" glass. I can get a used windshield for around $50.00 here, beats the $200.00 plus for a new one, plus install fee. Don't know how the inspection works where you are, we don't have that here. A cracked windshield is a no-no, but they won't stop you for it unless it's way bad. However, they will cite you for it, (defective equipment), if you get stopped for any other reason. You have 15 days to get it fixed..