TomRhere

You need a tank from another 4WD EA81 vehicle. FWD EA81 tanks won't fit unless yours is lifted 4", as there is no dimple in the tank to fit around the rear diff.

Wipers on my '88 Wagon do the same thing. Intermittent intermittent operation.

Only reason for the electric fan was for A/C equipped cars, which yours is. So you would only need to install an electric fan if you decide to get the A/C working again.

It should be attached. Just solder it back on, it's how it was done at the factory.

The pic you posted shows that the electric fan is missing. It's been removed for what ever reason. As far as the temp gage reading, if it always runs at that reading, then that is normal for your vehicle. Wouldn't worry to much about it unless it suddenly starts reading higher up on gage. My '88 Wagon has had 3 different engines in it, using the same engine harness and temp sensor. Each of the engines ran at different readings on the gage.

Oldest Son has an '06 GMC Canyon. Those headlight assemblies are a very close match to the EA82 ones. Not sure on anything other than "It looks like it will fit". Side marker lights will be the main issue as far as looks go, but shape is very similar as far as fitting the opening.

I have numerous EA82 headlight assemblies here if you want stock replacements. Need to know location of the adjuster screw for the horizontal adjustment, as they do differ between years/models.

PM me an email address and I'll send what I have on the procedure.

The FSM gives the procedure for adjusting hydraulic lifters. It is time consuming to do, but not difficult.

From what I remember, most of the issues with the dash is with the circuitry on the dash itself. Resistors, transistors, what have you. That engine itself, never gave me any issues. Oil/coolant leaks were most of the trouble when I 1st came under ownership of it.

I believe that fuse is for the A/C system, along with those relays. Going to get a bit chilly the next few days. But camping this time of year used to be great. When I was younger.... The EA81 digital dashes and their failures have been posted on here. But that's been a few years back now. Don't recall any threads in the last 2-3 years.

The afore mentioned bonding wire is only needed for the Factory Stock wiring set-up. If someone has moded the wiring for the fan, they most likely tapped into the wire to the switch. Post a pic of that area of the radiator and fan connection. I think a pic of looking down that side of the radiator at the wiring should do. There are a few ground wires on the EA81's. I'll look thru pics I have and see if I have any that show them.

Don't forget to install the bonding wire that goes from the top cross-brace of the radiator to the radiator support. I don't see it in the above pic of the engine looking in from the DS front area. The thermo-switch grounds the fan motor circuit. The bonding wire completes the path of power back to the battery.

The bolt pattern on the flywheel/crank is off-set. Nearly impossible to bolt it on wrong and get all of the bolts in. Thinking I would use the BRAT as a 3D reference. Set the BRATs engine to 8*BTDC #1, and compare the two of them. Check everything over, how the disty is sitting in reference to the adjustment slot, where #1 plug wire is on cap, and so on. Something doesn't add up. That engine has ran a couple Hitachi carbs, then SPFI, and a Weber set up. All in various vehicles I owned. No problem hitting timing, but it did like 11* with the Weber vs. the stock 8*.

Got to agree with what DaveT said about the gauges from car-to-car. It also varies engine to engine I have found. Same car, same temp sender, 3 different engines. All read differently on the temp gauge. Oil pressure readings varied also. Not a lot, but different.

Good to hear that the engine is running again. It is now doing so in it's 4th vehicle as far as I know. Looks good with the paint job on it. Distributor may not be dropped in correctly. If you bring it around to 8*BTDC #1 cylinder, the rotor should be pointing directly at #1 plug wire tower on the cap. Thinking I have a thermo-switch for the radiator fan. I can send it your way if you want it. PM me an addy. May not really need to do a brake job on it. Things like rotors and drums get rusty from setting, but as long as the system is sound, the rust will clean off with use. Yes, brakes are a bit grabby at first, but they do improve. And rust may be the cause of the pistons not wanting to turn as they should. Use may help there also. Seeing that "home-made" engine swap gantry brings back lots of memories of some I built myself. Gotta Love it....

I am unable to do links. Go to the Repair Manual forum on here, then the Transmission/axle/brakes section. "Tech tip-EA81 4-speed sloppy shifter bushing fix", by pressingonwards. He has a good write-up on hardware store items for the upper shifter bushing.

Multiple alternators swapped in, and you still get 18 volts, leads me to believe something is amiss in your wiring..

You need to force the control arm down more to clear the end of the strut. Looking at the 2nd pic, place a stout bar over the strut rod, and under the pivot of the control arm. Press down on bar, and it should move the knuckle off the strut. The strut rod is attached to the control arm and runs back towards the trans mount. Place the bar next to the attachment for the sway bar, and angle it forward to go under pivot point of control arm. I use a 4 foot pry bar to do this, using my foot to push it down. I undo the pinch-bolt for the ball joint vs. the one for the strut. Less movement needed to pop the ball-joint out of knuckle.

Get the float back in the carb before you do any more starting attempts........ It is possible that the pick-up is bad. The one out of your damaged disty should fit. I do believe I have a pick-up here if that one doesn't. Check for battery voltage at coil + with key on. Few other tests can be done, but I don't have access to the files right now. They're on my other computer, and it takes a while to boot up.

Toss the need of having to wear bifocals into the mix for even more fun....

Coxy, Thanks for the info on distributors. I have not tore into one that far I guess. Learned something this morning.

Of that era; GL's had the single 4x6 rectangular headlights, Dl's had the single large round headlights. Then there is the Chrome, no Chrome trim package also.

Personally, I use the Blue Loc-Tite on flywheel, pressure plate, and crank pulley bolts. All other bolt threads get a coat of anti-seize. And I coat the entire length of the intake manifold bolts with it also. If I did re-tap the exhaust stud holes, it will be easy to see so, as it is a very coarse thread.

Good to hear on the disty. Don't recall if I mentioned it, but,,, Do believe I tapped the exhaust stud holes to 7/16-14 thread on that engine. Most of mine get that treatment if the Factory threads pull out. More than enough material left to do heli-coil inserts if the need/want ever arises.